|This page is part of an international project to use RepRap 3-D printing to make OSAT for sustainable development. Learn more.
Research: Open source 3-D printing of OSAT • RecycleBot • LCA of home recycling • Green Distributed Recycling • Ethical Filament • LCA of distributed manufacturing • RepRap LCA Energy and CO2 • Solar-powered RepRaps • solar powered recyclebot • Feasibility hub • Mechanical testing • RepRap printing protocol: MOST• Lessons learned • MOST RepRap Build • MOST Prusa Build • MOST HS RepRap build • RepRap Print Server
Materials and Tools[edit | edit source]
Note[edit | edit source]
Tinning is the practice of wetting a surface with solder. In this context, it is the wetting of the exposed conductors, which is recommended as loose strands can inadvertently cause short circuits and are inherently more difficult to control than a single cohesive unit.
Video instructions[edit | edit source]
Step-by-step instructions[edit | edit source]
Tinning Conductor[edit | edit source]
- Solder the prepared strands together.
Butt Solder Joints[edit | edit source]
All of the butt joints on the MOST Delta are located on the end effector where the heating resistor leads are connected to the power conductors and the thermistor leads and fan are connected to copper pairs. A "third hand" (either literal or the tool) greatly facilitates butt joining.
- Tin the conductors per instructions above.
- Place adequate lengths of heat shrink tubing over one of the conductors and push it away from the solder joint so it doesn't shrink during soldering.
- Align the tinned conductor with the conductor it is to be joined with such that the two are parallel and touching.
- Solder the joint and blow on it to rapidly solidify the solder.
- Slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and overlapping insulators on both sides of the joint. Shrink the tube in place.
Soldering Copper Pair to Limit Switches[edit | edit source]
The limit switches have three terminals, one is common and the other two are normally open or normally closed. The controller firmware expects normally closed, which requires the conductors be soldered to the outermost two terminals, leaving the center terminal alone. Again, a "third hand" is helpful.
- Tin the conductors per the instructions above.
- Place a small solder puddle on the two outermost terminals of the limit switch.
- Place adequate lengths of heat shrink tubing over the conductors and push it away from the solder joint so it doesn't shrink during soldering.
Solder Extension to Fan Wires[edit | edit source]
- If the 40mm fan has a header on the wires, snip it off with wire cutters. Strip and tin the fan wires.
- Cut a pair of small heat shrink tubes and slide one on each of the fan wires.
- Keeping the heat shrink tube away from the joint, butt solder the twisted pair to the fan wires.
- Move the heat shrink tubing over the solder joint and shrink in place.
Solder Power Cable to Barrel Connector[edit | edit source]
- As with the limit switches, place a small pad of solder on the positive and negative terminals of the barrel connector. The positive terminal is the largest of the three terminals.
- Solder the on pair of tinned ends of the speaker wire or lamp cord to the pads.
Strip and Tin Motor Wires[edit | edit source]
- If the motor wires come with a header attached, snip it off with wire cutters.
- Strip and tin the motor wires.