Extruder and X-carriage.
Printed Parts[edit | edit source]
Gather all of the red printed part and the black x-carriage (Batmobile).
|Hot end retainer||1||Black|
|Large helical gear||1||Red|
|Small helical gear||1||Red|
Vitamins[edit | edit source]
|M4 x 50mm hex head cap screws||4|
|M4 x 16mm cap screws||2|
|M3 x 10mm cap screw||4|
|M3 x 8mm set screw||1|
|M8 nylon lock nut||1|
|3/8" x 9/32" spring||4|
|8mm x 25mm drill rod||1|
|Hot end retainer||1|
|1/8" ID x 1/4" OD x 630mm PTFE tubing||1|
|J-head hotend, assembled||1|
Assembly - Summary[edit | edit source]
- Prepare printed parts
- Assemble extruder drive
- Assemble x-carriage
Assembly[edit | edit source]
With a 3mm drill but, ream out the filament path through the extruder drive body and clean up the slots for the motor mounts. Use the 3mm drill bit like a file to ream out the 4mm openings for the idler mounts. Open the hobbed bolt hole with a sharp knife and ream with an 8mm drill bit. Clean any flashing from around the bearing recesses.
With a 5mm drill bit, ream the mount holes in the idler holder.
Clean up gears with a sharp knife, removing any protrusions from teeth, flashing from the print-surface-side of the gears and open up the set screw nut trap on the small gear. With a 5mm drill bit, ream the small gear shaft opening. Use a 3mm drill bit to ream the set screw opening in the small gear.
Ream the filament path in the extruder drive spacer and mount with a 3mm drill bit.
Push the hot end retainer into its slot in the x-carriage and use a 3mm drill bit to ream the retainer screw holes. Use a sharp knife to open the retainer nut traps being careful to not remove too much material; remove any obstructions in the Bowden sheath opening.
Insert a 3mm drill bit into one end of the PTFE tubing and start a 6mm nut threading over the tube, use a wrench if necessary. (The drill bit reduces collapsing of the tube walls, making higher quality thread.) Thread the nut such that all of the tapered portion extends beyond it. Pull the drill bit out and using like a file, ream the interior of the tubing.
Clean the tube really well, by removing any (almost) loose shards from the ends, and pushing a length of filament through the tube. If any of the PTFE makes its way into the nozzle, it will block the path and the printer will not work. Therefore it is really important to make sure that does not happen!
Rotate and push the hot end into the slot in the x-carriage until it is firmly seated. Push the hot end retainer into its slot and then insert a pair of M3 x 25mm screws through the retainer and carriage. Start M3 nuts on the opposite side and tighten the screws such that the whole assembly is firmly clamped together.
Use a wire tie to clamp the power and thermistor wires to the Bowden tube. Put it on loosely; don't compress the tube.
Push four M4 x 50mm hex head cap screws through the idler mount holes in the extruder body. If necessary, thread M4 nuts onto the screws and pull their heads the nut traps in the extruder body. If the screw heads are loose in the nut traps, affix the heads in the extruder body with a small amount of super glue.
With the set screw aligned with the flat on the motor shaft, push the small gear onto the motor. The gear should be tight but still able to be moved on the shaft.
Loosely attach the motor to the extruder drive body with M3 x 10mm screws with washers. The motor should be free to slide in the slots.
Push the hobbed bolt through the hole in the large gear and seat its cap in the gear's nut trap. Place four M8 washers on the bolt followed by a 608zz bearing. Push the bolt and bearing into the extruder drive body and place another 608zz bearing on the bolt followed by an M8 washer and the nylock M8 nut. Carefully tighten the assembly, pulling the bearings into their recesses - do not over tighten!
Remove the hobbed bolt and large gear to expose the remaining motor mounting screws and tighten them. Replace the large gear and hobbed bolt insuring that all the spacer washers are in place. Recheck hob position relative to filament path.