Instructions for Making
FBP Universal Nut Shellers
1. Introduction
2. Assembling the stator mold
3. Assembling the rotor mold
4. Mixing and pouring concrete
5. Removing parts from molds
6. Assembling shellers
7. Adjusting and testing shellers
8. Troubleshooting
Page data
Authors Curt Beckmann
Published 2008
License CC-BY-SA-4.0
Impact Number of views to this page. Views by admins and bots are not counted. Multiple views during the same session are counted as one. 570

It is important that the top and bottom brackets are installed so that the rotor is perfectly centered inside the stator. The top and bottom brackets are mounted on the ends of the long stator rods.

STEP 1: Attach Center Top Bracket

With the wire brush, remove excess cement off the exposed part of the threaded rods. Set the top bracket (short one) on exposed threaded rods with loose nuts and washers. Center the pipe in the opening. Tighten the nuts.

STEP 4: Place Rotor in Stator

Gently insert the threaded end of the rotor shaft into the top bracket. If the shaft touches the ground, raise the stator higher.

STEP 6: Grease Bottom Bracket Pipe

Pack the bottom bracket pipe with heavy machine grease.

STEP 7: Identify Long Stator Rods

Identify the other end of the long stator rods that are holding the top bracket on. Place a nut and then a washer on the bottom end of each rod as close to the concrete as possible. Note: the nut is installed closest to the concrete. Add the washer.

STEP 8: Attach Bottom Bracket

Slide the pipe onto the shaft so that the welded washers drop on to the long stator rods.

STEP 9: Secure Bottom Bracket

Secure the Bottom Bracket with nuts and washers as tight as possible.

Note: It is important to mount your sheller on a sturdy and stable stand. A stand can be made of wood, metal, or a half of an oil drum.

STEP 10: Turn Machine On Side To Install Washers

You will now carefully, with two people turn the machine on its side. Grease 4 (four) large washers, on one side only, and install them onto the threaded end of the rotor shaft.

STEP 11: Attach Turning Handle and Lock Nut

While the machine is still on its side spin the handle onto the threaded shaft and install lock nut after, as shown.

Now set the machine up on blocks with the handle upward. The rotor should drop. If it does not, knock it with a piece of wood until it does.

STEP 12: Attach to stand.

Stand can be made of wood, metal or half of an oil drum.

Bolt to wood or metal stand.

If using an oil drum, Attach Wooden Supports

Cut and drill wooden supports. You can figure out where the holes should go by placing a support on the

threaded rods then hitting the top of the wood with the other support, leaving an indentation from the threaded rods to show you where the holes should be. Drill holes twice as large as the threaded rods. Attach them to the bottom of the machine using a washer and nut on each threaded rod. Do not over tighten.

STEP 13: Attach the Metering Plates. Metering plates bolt to the top of the rotor. Install the larger half-circle plates first so that that the notches meet. Then install the small plate on top, securing it with a wing-nut.

Rotate the smaller plate in either direction to open or close the gap. THIS IS SHOWN OUTSIDE THE SHELLER BUT YOU WILL ACTUALLY BE DOING THE STEP WITH THE ROTOR INSIDE THE STATOR. Make sure the metal plates do not touch the inside of the stator or the stator will not turn freely.

Note: If the nuts you are shelling are very large, a third metering plate may be necessary. See photo:

This finishes the construction and assembly of your nut shelling machine.