Before begining, please note: It is important that the working surfaces of your sheller are rough. Rough surfaces will shell the nuts correctly. If the surface is too smooth, the nuts will slide and not be shelled. Rough working surfaces are made by wire brushing the concrete before it's too hard.


Let concrete set for six hours and test.

Testing the hardness of the concrete[edit | edit source]

STEP 1: Remove wooden clamp

Remove the wooden clamp from the top of the rotor shaft.

STEP 2: Pry Out Inner Rotor Mold

Gently pry out the Inner Rotor Mold using the bottom and top brackets.

STEP 3: Checking for Hardness

Using the wire brush, brush the inner surface of the rotor to test for hardness. If brushing roughens the surface without digging in, proceed to the next step. If the wire brush digs in, check again in an hour. Continue checking until the brush does not dig in.

Removing Parts from Molds[edit | edit source]

STEP 4: Locate Rotor Mold

Locate the Rotor Mold, remove the bottom Lock Nut and lift the Rotor Mold off of the stool.

STEP 5: Remove Nuts

Remove the four nuts from the mold so that the attached threaded rods will release.

STEP 5: Remove Rotor From Mold

Place the mold on blocks with the rotor shaft between the blocks and the threaded end up. Hit the side with piece of wood to loosen it. Drop the whole assembly gently onto the blocks until the concrete releases. Rough the curved surface with the wire brush.

NOTE: To assure that your sheller does not break the nuts, you have to have your surface centered to the shaft.

STEP 6: Check for centering

Slide the top and bottom brackets on each end of the rotor shaft. Set the brackets on blocks as shown in picture. Thread the handle onto the rotor shaft as far as possible. Place a straight piece of wood or metal (a brace) (to be included in kit, need a part number) parallel to the surface of the rotor. Turn the handle clockwise and check the space between the rotor and the brace. If the space is constant, your rotor is in round. If not, use the cut end of lock nut to remove the high spot until rotor is centered to shaft. Only the bottom third has to be centered. Round the bottom edge. The bottom of the rotor is the wide end.

Proceed with out delay to next step because the concrete is setting.

STEP 7: Remove Inner Stator Mold

Remove all six nuts and washers from the top of the mold. Using the top and bottom bracket, pry and lift out the inner stator mold.

STEP 8: Remove Plastic Liner

Pull the Plastic Liner out. Save the Liner for later use. (However if it does rip it is easily replaceable).

STEP 9: Brush Inside of Stator

Leaving the stator in the outer mold, brush the inside surface of the stator using a wire brush until the surface is rough.

Let set for 12 more hours.

STEP 10: Remove Outer Stator Mold

Turn over the mold on SOFT GROUND to avoid bending the exposed threaded rods. Remove the two remaining nuts.

STEP 11: Loosen Expansion Joints

Loosen the nuts holding the expansion joints closed. Pry both joints open about two finger widths.

STEP 12: Release Mold from Concrete

Tap on the side of the mold with a brick or a similar object. Be careful not to damage the mold.

STEP 13: Lift Mold Off Stator

Tap with a block of wood and lift the mold off the stator. Smooth the inside edges by scraping the upper rim with a flat metal object.

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Authors Curt Beckmann
License CC-BY-SA-3.0
Language English (en)
Related 0 subpages, 1 pages link here
Aliases Removing parts from FBP UNS molds
Impact 385 page views
Created April 28, 2008 by Curt Beckmann
Modified February 23, 2024 by Felipe Schenone
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