Set up your bike stand and remove the extra fan piece to expose the metal rod

Get a sprocket. Any sprocket will do, but a larger gear will increase rotaions and make it easier on the rider.

Slide the sprocket onto the rod of the bike stand and tighten screws, locking the piece into place.

Etch the roller that contacts the rear bike tire to reduce the risk of slipping on the tire.

The final bike stand roller should look like this.

Cut off the unnecessary sprocket attached to pedal leg, but keep gear intact because it will be used in step _.

Fit square bolt to the hole in the pedal leg. This piece screws around the motor to hold tightly.

Thread chain through derailleur. Derailleur should screw apart using a small wrench. Once derailleur is open, set chain in place and screw together again.

Using the bolt fitted to the pedal leg in step 2, now attach the derailleur to it with a washer and nut.

At this point your system should look like this.

Remove sprocket from the motor.

Cut a fitted hollow cylinder out of raw aluminum with screw holes to the sprocket.

Weld an aluminum cylinder to the disc that will fit the rod of the motor. This piece screws around the roller to hold tightly.

Get a piece of wood that fits behind the bike stand without interfering with the roller.

Optional: Cut a wedge out of the base of the board to allow for easier access to the height adjusting knob.

Screw a block of wood to the wood base, if you chose to cut out a piece in step 2, this piece of wood will do.

Screw motor to the piece of wood you attached in step 3, make sure the motor is aligned to the roller or you will loose power due to the excess resistance caused by the un-aligned chain.

Now weave your chain onto the roller and motor sprockets.

Take the sprocket that you cut from the bike pedal, grind off a few teeth perpendicular to one of the 5 holes, and screw it into the bike pedal

Test angle of derailleur mount to ensure the clearance of the roller when its adjusted.

Decide on a spot to mount the pedal and screw it into place with metal brackets.

Now that the pedal is mounted, slide a 1x2x5 inch piece of wood into the gab between the sprocket and the pedal. Screw it into place using at least 2 of the four remaining holes.

Your system should look like this.

Set blocking diode into heat sink positive (+) side-up by cutting hole to fit the diameter of the diode.

Solder positive (+) wire from the motor to the positive (+) side of blocking diode

Solder (+) wire from blocking diode to one end of the fuse holder with fuse inside and solder another wire to the other end of the fuse holder.

What your circuit should look like

Charge controller must be opened with screwdriver in order to connect wires

1. Place the positive (+) loose wire into the #1 "Battery Positive" terminal on the charge controller
   
2. Place the Positive (+) wire that goes to the battery into the same #1 "Battery Positive" terminal on the charge controller.
3. Screw both wires down, locking them into place.
4. Take the negative (-) wire from the motor and place it into the #3 "Battery Negative" terminal of the charge controller
5. Take the negative (-) wire from the battery and place it into the same #3 "Battery Negative" terminal of the charge controller as well.
6. Screw both motor and battery negative wires down, locking them into place together in the terminal

Cut plexi-glass pieces to fit around the wooden base.

Glue plexi-glass pieces together with plexi-glass solvent to join the pieces, making a box.

The box must be opened periodically to maintain moving parts and tighten bolts. A hinged door makes this possible on the long side of the box next to the motor. Hinges are bolted to the top of the box and to a side piece of plexi-glass.

Affix magnet plates to bottom of door with screws. Screw magnets onto main wooden board.