To finish building an Open Source parabolic hot water heater.
Here we have the different parts of the project design, including some photos[edit | edit source]
- Metallic Structure
- Reflector area
- Motor area
- Motor mounting - Metallic structure
Collector[edit | edit source]
Collector Photos[edit | edit source]
Collector Drawings[edit | edit source]
Collector Comments[edit | edit source]
8 Nov. 2016 Just thought i'd add that the Jalero was pretty complicated. We decided to experiment with just the bent steel rod resting and rotating against a clamp.
i like the jalero: it's homemade and pretty inexpensive, and uses those round things with a set screw so the distance can be adjusted; it's all stainless steel and aluminum.
Motor Area[edit | edit source]
Motor Area Photos[edit | edit source]
Motor and threaded rod assembly. In forefront is the aluminum C channel, then the stainless steel block which rotates upon the threaded rod. Hidden are the extensions on either side of the stainless steel block and their respective washers and bearings. In the background can faintly be seen the horizontal aluminum C channel.
Motor Area Drawings[edit | edit source]
Motor Area Comments[edit | edit source]
In the photo of the side view of the motor mount, the far right cable has been eliminated because the wire now goes up the inside of the rotator rod which has the electronic sensor at the top.
The other three holes are, top to bottom: switch, power and power cable for small pump at foot of collector.
Motor support box - right side now only has three holes. See above.
Motor support box - front - inside: This needs additional items: the inverter, etc.
Electronics[edit | edit source]
Electronic Photos[edit | edit source]
Electronics Drawings[edit | edit source]
Electronics Comments?[edit | edit source]
Here's where to comment on the electronics area - lol!
March 2015 - Well, it looks like the problem was one of angles. The relation between the long connecting rod and the two shorter, vertical ones which connect to the collector and motor needs to form a parallelogram. So we lowered the connection point on the motor area to make sure it was the same distance from the ground as the one that connects to the collector. Since we lowereed the connection point, we added an aluminum rod to the motor area frame and used our 7" bolt. We now see that a 4" bolt will probably do.
First comment... We have switched out the 6" bolt to a 7" one. When we were using the previous design, the assembly wouldn't bind, but now it does, so much so that it manages to bend the 1/2" threaded rod. We are at a loss to explain what is happening here. Anyone have an idea?
Misc.[edit | edit source]
For additional information, please feel free to contact Fred Frazelle at firstname.lastname@example.org
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