This article discusses planting trees, for example in the establishment of a forest garden, or a more traditional type of garden or orchard. Tree planting may also be applicable to planting of a windbreak, and of course reforestation schemes.
Prior stages
Ideally, the site will have been assessed and a design determined. Depending on local conditions, drainage, water retention, soil improvements, etc. may have also been carried out prior to planting. The exact position of each tree according to the design is marked by placing stakes in the ground.
As a reminder, it is very important that the placement of trees be considered with reference to the mature canopy spread, not planting trees too densely where they will compete with each other for light. In a temperate climate forest garden, planting the tree layer too densely results in a closed canopy with insufficient light penetration to allow lower layers to be productive, and also likely will result in a lot of future pruning or even removal of trees.
Tools
Planting a tree is easier if there are at least 2 people.
- Spade and fork: Long-handled digging spade and garden forks require less bending over, and less muscular effort to produce leverage. Modern gardening tools developed from mining tools which were designed to be used kneeling down. Furthermore, people are on average taller than they were 200 years ago.[1]
- Stakes
- Sledge hammer
- Tree tie
- Bonemeal
- Mychorryzial fungi
Best time to plant
This depends on what type of trees you are planting.
Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or after heavy rain when the ground is waterlogged. As a general rule, if the soil is sticking to your boots, digging will damage soil structure. Consider waiting for things to dry out more.[2]
Sometimes it is advised to dig the hole a few days prior to planting. However, this may lead to the surface of soil in the hole becoming hardened.[3]
Hole
Size
Generally, the hole should be twice as big as the root ball of the tree.
Square vs. round hole
Square pit may be better than a round pit as the extra space may encourage the roots to grow out laterally from the original hole.[1] When the roots grow and encounter undisturbed soil at the edge of round hole planting, they may be deflected and end up going round in circles.
Technique
Consider placing the topsoil and the subsoil in different piles when digging the hole.[3]
Staking
Firstly, the site should ideally not be too exposed to wind, particularly the salty sea breezes of maritime exposure which many trees will struggle with. It may be advantageous to establish a windbreak before planting.
Staking gives the tree support while the roots are becoming established. Often the stake is removed after 1 or 2 years as it is no longer needed. However, neglected stakes can cause damage to the tree.
Sometimes stakes are intended to be permanent. For example, fruit trees on dwarfing root stocks may benefit from permanent staking.[2]
Usually stakes are just lengths of wood, square (e.g. 3cm by 3cm / approx. 1 inch by 1 inch)[2] or round in cross section.
Length Shorter stakes may be better than long stakes as it allows the trunk to flex and strengthen in the wind.[1] Shorter stakes encourage strong root growth while longer stakes may result in the tree being reliant on the stake for support.[2] Recommended stake lengths include 0.5m (1'8") above ground level,[2] with the original length being 1-1.25m (3-4').[2]
Trees trained in the form of pyramids or spindlebushes benefit from a permanent long stake.[2]
Angle
Vertical stakes can be used. Stakes at 45 degrees are angled away from the root ball and so are ideal for planting pot grown trees.
Position
The stake should be downwind (leeward) relative the to the direction of the prevailing wind. If the stake is placed upwind (windward) then the trunk may be chronically blown against the stake. The constant contact may create a wound which can be a route of entry for disease.[2] For multistemmed trees and shrubs, the stake can be tied to the largest stem.
Number
2 or 3 stakes can be used as an alternative to one very large stake.
Technique
Put the stake in the planting hole before putting the tree in the hole. Doing it while the tree is in the hole may damage the roots of the tree.
References
See also
- Planting trees in pasture (can be merged here)
- AT Sourcebook/Forestry/Practical Guide to Dryland Farming: Planting Tree Crops
- AT Sourcebook/Forestry/Tree Planting in Africa South of the Sahara
External links
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 Wilson, M; Royal Horticultural Society (2007). New gardening : how to garden in a changing climate. Mitchell Beazley. ISBN 9781845333058.
- ↑ 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 2.5 2.6 2.7 The Fruit Tree Handbook. B Pike. Green Books, 2011
- ↑ 3.0 3.1 Seymour, M (2014). The New Self-Sufficient Gardener: The complete illustrated guide to planning, growing, storing and preserving your own garden produce. Dorling Kindersley. ISBN 9781409346784.