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CCAT Natural Exterior Wall Plaster & Paint, part 2
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=== Applying Adhesion Coat === As I mentioned above, the adhesion coat is roughly analogous to a primer in commercial painting. It's a coat of material which will stick to the layers beneath, while providing a surface for the plasters to stick to.<ref>'''Guelberth, Cedar Rose & Dan Chiras. The Natural Plaster Book: Earthen, Lime, and Gypsum Plasters for Natural Homes. Gabriola Island, BC, Canada: New Society Publishers, 2003.'''Of all the books I read through, only one did I find myself drawn back to over and again.... This book seemed to have, compared to others, the most agreed upon and middle-of-the-road recipes; I derived all my basic formulas from it and barely scratched the surface.</ref>Strictly speaking, I probably only needed to coat the wood end-beams and the window edges as the other materials would bond fine with the plasters. However, because this is meant to be an experiment, I decided to coat the entire surface so there would be one uniform adhesion coat throughout; I thought of this as a reduction in experimental variables. I used ''clay slip'' for my adhesion coat. I applied my slip with a four inch brush and an eight inch heavyish (about 3/4 inch) nap paint roller, first having dampened the work area with water. For ease on my back I attached the roller handle to a pole so I could stand straighter. I dipped out of a five gallon bucket, which I find to be easier to move, more voluminous, and less spill-able than a roller tray; in this case I mixed my materials in the 5gal buckets as well, making it doubly appropriate. Buckets also come in handy in that you can lid them as necessary, and I found I could keep slip on hand and workable for longer than a week this way. A tip- when dealing with water based materials left in a bucket, it is wise to skim them over with a centimeter or so of water, not enough to throw off your mix, but enough to keep it from crusting over as you leave it sitting. Check every day or two to make sure the water hasn't evaporated, and carefully poor it off or just mix it when ready to use. After the adhesion coat set up a tad but before it dried, I would scratch lines into the surface lengthwise with a metal toothed scratch tool, the teeth on this were about a quarter inch long and needn't bite all the way. This scratching of the surface provides extra ''Key'', or edges and textures for further coats to adhere and bond into. [[File:CCAT natural Plaster; a key or scratch coat.jpg|thumb|left|Note the Plaster Coat of Manure (brown) and Lime (gray) Plasters have been keyed or scratched to provide bonding surface for the Lime Plaster finish going over the top right, (lighter gray color because not keyed and higher lime ratio for finish coat). The Scratch Coat would be even rougher underneath what is visible here, with slip under that.]]
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