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MOST RepRap bed

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Sunhusky.png By Michigan Tech's Open Sustainability Technology Lab.

Wanted: Students to make a distributed future with solar-powered open-source 3-D printing.
Contact Dr. Joshua Pearce or Apply here

MOST: Projects and Publications, Methods, Lit. reviews, People, Sponsors
Twitter updates @ProfPearce

OSL.jpg

Finish the build[edit]

MOST Prusa RepRap Navigation
RepRap Primer
Dual Build overview
Soldering
Y-carriage
Frame
X-axis
Y-axis
Extruder & x carriage
Z-axis & alignment
Braiding
Electronics
Firmware
Finish!

Tandem Build MOST Delta Navigation
Green indicate workshop tasks
Printer Primer
Overview
Soldering and tinning
Assembling hot end
Drilling Pilot Holes
Person 1 Person 2
Tie Rods and Pulleys Epoxying Magnets
Motor End Assembly Idler End Assembly
Extruder Drive Mount Bases
End Effector Frame
Verticals
Wiring
Firmware
Software
Finishing
Printing Basics

Vitamins[edit]

Description Count
Glass plate or mirror 1
Binder clip 4

Assembly[edit]

  1. Put the glass plate on the pcb and attach it on the front and back with binder clips.
  2. Start the printer interface on the computer and connect to the printer.
  3. Using your hand, move the X carriage to the middle of the rail and the bed to the middle of the printer.
  4. Switch on the power to the printer.
  5. Instruct it to go 10 mm into the negative X direction. Check that it moves to the left.
  6. With your finger at the reset switch on the controller board, instruct it to home the X axis. It should move to the left until the flagged belt terminator hits the limit switch. If something goes wrong, hit the reset switch on the controller board.
  7. Instruct the printer to go 10 mm to the negative Y direction and check that it moves the bed to the back.
  8. Check that the y home instruction works, similar the the x home instruction.
  9. Move the z-axis 10 mm up and check that it does. Repeat this until the rail is approximately halfway between the bed and the top.
  10. Instruct the z-axis to go home and when it starts moving, activate the z endstop by hand. It should stop, back up a bit and come a bit further down. If it doesn't stop, reset the controller board.
  11. With the z endstop very low, move the head down until it just hits the bed. Make sure it doesn't go too far down by using smaller steps when it gets close.
  12. Move the head left and right with the x controls. Rotate the left or right z-axis lead screw by hand until the hot end nozzle is at the same height at both left and right sides of the build platform.
  13. Similarly, move the bed front and back with the y controls. If necessary, adjust the nuts on the corners of the bed to tilt it so that the nozzle is just touching the build platform at the front and back.
  14. With the head touching the bed, move the z endstop against the flexible part of the x motor mount.
  15. Instruct the z-axis to home. Adjust the screw and repeat until the home position is where the head is just not touching the bed. The distance should be approximately 0.1 mm. A piece of paper placed between the nozzle and the build platform should offer just a little resistance when trying to move it.
  16. Instruct the extruder to retract some filament. Check that the large gear rotates in the direction that would retract it.
  17. Switch the printer motors off (this is a button in the printer interface).
  18. Load up the filament by pushing it in and rotating the big gear by hand, until you see it entering the Bowden tube. If significant resistance is encountered, remove the filament and locate the cause of resistance.
  19. Instruct the extruder to heat up to 200 degrees. Wait for it to reach temperature.
  20. Move the z up by 20 mm (twice 10 mm).
  21. Extrude 500 mm of filament.
  22. Extrude 200 mm of filament. That should make some filament come out of the nozzle.
  23. Your printer is now ready for use.

Tweaking[edit]


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