Wormland wormbin instructions
Instructions for Building Worm Bin Kids Alone[edit | edit source]
This is a guide to building the Wormland Worm bin created by team Onychophora.
Materials needed[edit | edit source]
Two half-gallon waxed cardboard juice or milk cartons, duct tape, scissors, and several sharp pencils/pencil sharpeners.
How to build your Wormland Wormbin[edit | edit source]
- Obtain two half-gallon waxed cardboard cartons. Make sure they are rinsed out and dry before beginning to construct the worm bin.
- To make the migration hole for the worms between the two cartons, a 2” by 3” hole is cut into the side of each container but in the exact same location along one of the sides, so that when the two cartons are lined up the holes match exactly. To make the hole, poke four holes in the shape of a rectangle in the same location on both cartons with a sharp pencil. This makes it easier to then cut out the holes with scissors.
- Poke holes for ventilation and drainage along the sides and bottoms of both cartons. Three holes along the middle and five along the bottom is sufficient.
- Flaps are then cut into the topside of each carton, i.e. the side with the largest surface area and with the label saying “Humboldt Creamery”, etc. The same method is used as for cutting the migrations holes. Poke one hole in each corner of the top side of the carton, but cut along only three of the four connecting holes to make a flap instead of a rectangular hole.
- The two cartons can now be connected with duct tape. Tape the top and bottom of the cartons together lengthwise on both sides. If using cartons with flap dispensers instead of screw top spouts tape those shut as well.
- Finally, use more duct tape to make tabs for the worm bin’s flaps
How to use your Wormland Wormbin[edit | edit source]
- Start by putting a small amount of damp shredded newspaper, a handful of dirt or dead leaves, and a rough handful of food scraps (see: what to feed your worms) on both sides of your bin. Make sure to only put food scraps on one side, however. This forces the worms to migrate from one side to the other in search of food after digesting the given material.
- Initially leave your worm bin for about a week or so without worms in it so that the contents of the bin can begin the decomposition process.
- You may now add 100 to 250 worms(a rough handful) to the side of your bin that contains the newspaper mixture.
- Once a week, use a spoon to mix up (“aerate”) the side of the bin that contains worms to keep harmful gases from building up. Also once a week, be sure to add a small amount (about a half a handful) of food to the bin.
- Make sure that the worm bin is sprayed and moistened so the bedding does not dry out.
- After 2-3 months, the bin will start to accumulate castings (worm poop). When this starts to happen, prepare a new batch of bedding and food on the empty side of the bin. The worms will then migrate via the migration hole to where more food is provided.
- After the worms have migrated to the fresh side of the bin, you may remove the castings from the other side and use them in your gardening to produce bigger, healthier plants.
|What to feed your worms||What not to feed your worms|
|Coffee grounds and filters||Fish|
|Tea bags and filters||Dairy products|
|Old bread||Greasy or oily foods|
|Fruit peels or pulp||Pet wastes|
The projected lifetime of the bin is six months to a year. Due to the simple design,however, it is also easy to make another worm bin to replace the old one!
Modular Design[edit | edit source]
A modular design means that you can expand your Wormland Worm Bin to the size you want.
- Get another juice or milk carton and place it next to your 2-carton bin.
- Follow steps 2-4 of How to build your Wormland Wormbin with the new carton
- Cut an extra migration hole into your existing wormbin
- Make sure the migration holes line up then tape new bin in place
- Repeat as necessary until you reach your desired worm bin size.