Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.
Insert thermistor with muffler cement on it.
Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.
Carefully check to see that the muffler cement has set around the hot end thermistor and power resistor. If it has, carefully slide on the teflon tubing provided for the thermistor and resistor leads. Each lead should be insulated by a teflon tube.
Heating resistor conductor soldered on.
Butt join the tinned lamp cord to the heating resistor leads.
Kapton tape securing leads to hot end.
To minimize the possibility of breaking the thermistor leads, first carefully and tightly wrap kaptan tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.
Butt join a 1m length of copper pair to the thermistor leads.