Difference between revisions of "J-head Assembly:MOST"

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{{MOST}}
 
{{MOST}}
 
{{MOST-RepRap}}
 
{{MOST-RepRap}}
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=Materials and Tools=
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{| style="margin:auto"
 +
|-style="vertical-align:top;"
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|[[File:MOST_j-head_material.JPG|thumb|400px|alt=Assembled hot end|Hot end parts. Muffler cement not in picture.]]
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{|class="wikitable" style="margin:auto"
 +
|+Materials
 +
!Description
 +
!Count
 +
|-
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|j-head hot end
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|1
 +
|-
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|Heating resistor
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|1
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|-
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|Thermistor
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|1
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|-
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|PTFE resistor insulation
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|1 piece cut in two lengths
 +
|-
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|PTFE thermistor insulation
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|1 piece cut in two lengths
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|-
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|1/16" Heat shrink tubing for thermistor
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|1 piece cut in two lengths
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|-
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|3/32" Heat shrink tubing for resistor
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|1 piece cut in two lengths
 +
|-
 +
|24ga twisted pair
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|1m
 +
|-
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|18ga speaker/lamp wire
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|1m
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|-
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|colspan="2"|Kapton tape
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|-
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|colspan="2"|Muffler cement '''(not pictured)'''
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|}
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|
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|[[File:MOST_j-head_tools.JPG|thumb|400px|alt=Tools for assembly|Necessary tools.]]
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{|class="wikitable" style="margin:auto"
 +
|+Tools
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|-
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|Soldering supplies '''(not pictured'''
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|-
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|Wire strippers '''(not pictured'''
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|-
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|Stick
 +
|-
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|Precision knife
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|}
 +
|}
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=Note=
 +
The MOST Delta uses a j-head hot end with a 0.5mm nozzle and accepting 1.75mm filament. There are a few versions of the j-head - the one discussed here has the PEEK insulator and is designed for PLA and ABS filament. Even this design has a couple variants, one using a tiny radial lead thermistor and another using an axial lead thermistor. The axial lead thermistor version is recommended as the thermistor leads are much more robust as compared to the brittle, hair-thin leads of the radial lead version. Regardless of the design variant, assembly is essentially identical.
 +
 +
=Procedure=
 +
# [[File:MOST_Delta_001.JPG|thumb|right|Smear muffler cement on heating resistor.]][[File:MOST_Delta_002.JPG|thumb|right|Insert resistor and bend leads.]]Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.{{clear}}
 +
# [[File:MOST_Delta_003.JPG|thumb|right|Insert thermistor with muffler cement on it.]]Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.{{clear}}
 +
# [[File:MOST_Delta_004_NEW.JPG|thumb|right|Trimmed PTFE insulation.]]Check to see that the muffler cement has set around the hot end thermistor and power resistor. If it has, carefully slide on the PTFE tubing provided for the thermistor and resistor leads. Trim the PTFE tubing so that the entire lead is insulated except for about 1/4" at the end of the lead. Each lead should be insulated by PTFE.
 +
# [[File:MOST_Delta_005_NEW.JPG|thumb|right|Kapton tape securing leads to hot end.]]To minimize the possibility of breaking the thermistor leads while soldering, carefully and tightly wrap kapton tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.{{clear}}
 +
# [[File:MOST_Delta_004.JPG|thumb|right|Heating resistor conductor soldered on.]][[Soldering_and_Tinning:MOST|Butt join]] the tinned 18ga speaker wire or lamp cord to the heating resistor leads.{{clear}}
 +
# [[Soldering_and_Tinning:MOST#Butt_Solder_Joints|Butt join]] a 1m length of copper pair to the thermistor leads.
 +
[[File:MOST_Delta_006.JPG|thumb|512px|center|alt=Assembled hot end|Assembled hot end]]
 +
 +
=Navigation=
 
{{template:MOST Delta Nav}}
 
{{template:MOST Delta Nav}}
# [[File:MOST_Delta001.jpg|thumb|right|Smear muffler cement on heating resistor.]]Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.
 
# Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.
 
# Strip about 3mm (1/8”) of insulation from the ends of all of the motor leads. Carefully twist the ends of each lead and dip in solder flux (do not twist the four separate leads together – twist only single lead conductors).
 
# With a hot soldering iron and lead-free solder, tin the twisted motor leads with solder. Clean excess flux from the leads.
 
# Separate about 25mm (1”) of both ends of the two conductors in the lamp cord and strip about 3mm (1/8”) of insulation from the ends. Twist the conductors and dip in solder flux.
 
# Tin the twisted conductors with hot solder and remove excess flux from the conductors.
 
# Prepare five one-meter lengths of twisted pair by stripping about 3mm (1/8”) of insulation from their ends, twisting the conductors and dipping in solder flux.
 
# Tin the ends of the twisted pair conductors with hot solder.
 
# Cut six 12mm (1/2”) lengths of 3mm (1/8”) heat shrink tubing. Three one-meter lengths of twisted pair will be used for limit switches, so place a pair of tubing lengths over the ends of three of the twisted pair conductors prepared above.
 
# Make sure the heat shrink tubing is well away from the solder joint while soldering the twisted pair to the outer-most posts on a limit switch. Once soldering is complete, push the tubing over the post and solder joint and shrink in place. Repeat with remaining two conductors and limit switches.
 
# Carefully check to see that the muffler cement has set around the hot end thermistor and power resistor. If it has, carefully slide on the teflon tubing provided for the thermistor and resistor leads. Each lead should be insulated by a teflon tube.
 
# Cut four more 12mm (1/2”) lengths of 3mm (1/8”) heat shrink tubing and slide over one set of ends on the lamp cord and one of the remaining twisted pairs.
 
# Butt join with solder the lamp cord to the power resistor leads. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and the teflon tubing and shrink in place.
 
# Butt join with solder the twisted pair with the thermistor leads. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and the ends of the teflon tubes and shrink in place.
 
# Carefully bend the leads around the hot end such that both the power resistor and thermistor conductors are located at roughly the same point at the top of the hot end. Carefully and tightly wrap kaptan tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.
 
# Strip about 3mm (1/8”) of insulation from the ends of the 40mm fan leads and carefully twist the ends of the exposed conductors. Dip in solder flux and tin the conductors with hot solder.
 
# Cut two 12mm (1/2”) lengths of 3mm (1/8”) heat shrink tubing and slide over the one set of ends of the remaining twisted pair.
 
# Butt join with solder the twisted pair to the fan leads. Slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint and shrink in place.
 
  
 
[[category: MOST methods]]
 
[[category: MOST methods]]
 
[[category:3D printing]]
 
[[category:3D printing]]

Revision as of 15:24, 13 March 2015


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Materials and Tools

Assembled hot end
Hot end parts. Muffler cement not in picture.
Materials
Description Count
j-head hot end 1
Heating resistor 1
Thermistor 1
PTFE resistor insulation 1 piece cut in two lengths
PTFE thermistor insulation 1 piece cut in two lengths
1/16" Heat shrink tubing for thermistor 1 piece cut in two lengths
3/32" Heat shrink tubing for resistor 1 piece cut in two lengths
24ga twisted pair 1m
18ga speaker/lamp wire 1m
Kapton tape
Muffler cement (not pictured)
Tools for assembly
Necessary tools.
Tools
Soldering supplies (not pictured
Wire strippers (not pictured
Stick
Precision knife

Note

The MOST Delta uses a j-head hot end with a 0.5mm nozzle and accepting 1.75mm filament. There are a few versions of the j-head - the one discussed here has the PEEK insulator and is designed for PLA and ABS filament. Even this design has a couple variants, one using a tiny radial lead thermistor and another using an axial lead thermistor. The axial lead thermistor version is recommended as the thermistor leads are much more robust as compared to the brittle, hair-thin leads of the radial lead version. Regardless of the design variant, assembly is essentially identical.

Procedure

  1. Smear muffler cement on heating resistor.
    Insert resistor and bend leads.
    Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.
  2. Insert thermistor with muffler cement on it.
    Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.
  3. Trimmed PTFE insulation.
    Check to see that the muffler cement has set around the hot end thermistor and power resistor. If it has, carefully slide on the PTFE tubing provided for the thermistor and resistor leads. Trim the PTFE tubing so that the entire lead is insulated except for about 1/4" at the end of the lead. Each lead should be insulated by PTFE.
  4. File:MOST Delta 005 NEW.JPG
    Kapton tape securing leads to hot end.
    To minimize the possibility of breaking the thermistor leads while soldering, carefully and tightly wrap kapton tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.
  5. Heating resistor conductor soldered on.
    Butt join the tinned 18ga speaker wire or lamp cord to the heating resistor leads.
  6. Butt join a 1m length of copper pair to the thermistor leads.
Assembled hot end
Assembled hot end

Navigation

Tandem Build MOST Delta Navigation
Green indicate workshop tasks
Printer Primer
Overview
Soldering and tinning
Assembling hot end
Drilling Pilot Holes
Person 1 Person 2
Tie Rods and Pulleys Epoxying Magnets
Motor End Assembly Idler End Assembly
Extruder Drive Mount Bases
End Effector Frame
Verticals
Wiring
Firmware
Software
Finishing
Printing Basics