Difference between revisions of "J-head Assembly:MOST"
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{{MOST}} | {{MOST}} | ||
{{MOST-RepRap}} | {{MOST-RepRap}} | ||
| + | [[File:MOST_j-head_material.JPG|thumb|512px|center|alt=Assembled hot end|Hot end parts]] | ||
{{template:MOST Delta Nav}} | {{template:MOST Delta Nav}} | ||
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# [[File:MOST_Delta_001.JPG|thumb|right|Smear muffler cement on heating resistor.]][[File:MOST_Delta_002.JPG|thumb|right|Insert resistor and bend leads.]]Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.{{clear}} | # [[File:MOST_Delta_001.JPG|thumb|right|Smear muffler cement on heating resistor.]][[File:MOST_Delta_002.JPG|thumb|right|Insert resistor and bend leads.]]Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.{{clear}} | ||
# [[File:MOST_Delta_003.JPG|thumb|right|Insert thermistor with muffler cement on it.]]Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.{{clear}} | # [[File:MOST_Delta_003.JPG|thumb|right|Insert thermistor with muffler cement on it.]]Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.{{clear}} | ||
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# [[File:MOST_Delta_005.JPG|thumb|right|Kapton tape securing leads to hot end.]]To minimize the possibility of breaking the thermistor leads, first carefully and tightly wrap kaptan tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.{{clear}} | # [[File:MOST_Delta_005.JPG|thumb|right|Kapton tape securing leads to hot end.]]To minimize the possibility of breaking the thermistor leads, first carefully and tightly wrap kaptan tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.{{clear}} | ||
# [[Soldering_and_Tinning:MOST|Butt join]] a 1m length of copper pair to the thermistor leads. | # [[Soldering_and_Tinning:MOST|Butt join]] a 1m length of copper pair to the thermistor leads. | ||
| + | [[File:MOST_Delta_006.JPG|thumb|512px|center|alt=Assembled hot end|Assembled hot end]] | ||
[[category: MOST methods]] | [[category: MOST methods]] | ||
[[category:3D printing]] | [[category:3D printing]] | ||
Revision as of 13:10, 16 June 2014
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Michigan Tech's Open Sustainability Technology Lab.
Wanted: Students to make a distributed future with solar-powered open-source 3-D printing and recycling. |
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| This page is part of an international project to use RepRap 3-D printing to make OSAT for sustainable development. Learn more.
Research: Open source 3-D printing of OSAT • RecycleBot • LCA of home recycling • Green Distributed Recycling • Ethical Filament • LCA of distributed manufacturing • RepRap LCA Energy and CO2 • Solar-powered RepRaps • solar powered recyclebot • Feasibility hub • Mechanical testing • RepRap printing protocol: MOST• Lessons learned • MOST RepRap Build • MOST Prusa Build • MOST HS RepRap build • RepRap Print Server Make me: Want to build a MOST RepRap? - Start here! • Delta Build Overview:MOST • Athena Build Overview • MOST metal 3-D printer • Humanitarian Crisis Response 3-D Printer |
| Tandem Build MOST Delta Navigation | |
| Green indicate workshop tasks | |
| Printer Primer | |
| Overview | |
| Soldering and tinning | |
| Assembling hot end | |
| Drilling Pilot Holes | |
| Person 1 | Person 2 |
|---|---|
| Tie Rods and Pulleys | Epoxying Magnets |
| Motor End Assembly | Idler End Assembly |
| Extruder Drive | Mount Bases |
| End Effector | Frame |
| Verticals | |
| Wiring | |
| Firmware | |
| Software | |
| Finishing | |
| Printing Basics | |
- Smear a small amount of muffler cement around the entire exterior of the heating resistor and insert into the hole provided for it in the hot end. Carefully bend the resistor leads up towards the top of the hot end heat sink.
- Apply a small amount of muffler cement to the glass bulb of the thermistor and press into the hole in the hot end. Use a toothpick or similar item to clean away any excess cement on the exterior of the hot end. Set the hot end aside to let the cement cure.
- Carefully check to see that the muffler cement has set around the hot end thermistor and power resistor. If it has, carefully slide on the teflon tubing provided for the thermistor and resistor leads. Each lead should be insulated by a teflon tube.
- Butt join the tinned lamp cord to the heating resistor leads.
- To minimize the possibility of breaking the thermistor leads, first carefully and tightly wrap kaptan tape around the bottom of the heat sink near the nozzle, making at least three complete turns around the heat sink. Do not wrap tape such that the openings in the heat sink are blocked or cooling of the hot end entry point will be impaired.
- Butt join a 1m length of copper pair to the thermistor leads.
