Get our free book (in Spanish or English) on rainwater now - To Catch the Rain.

User:C Blair

From Appropedia
Jump to navigation Jump to search

QASlogo.png This page was developed by the Queen's University Applied Sustainability Research Group. QASlogo.png


Fun Facts About Me

I am passionate about development and appropriate design of technology for it's purpose. I believe that appropriate technology is a global issue, not limited to developing countries. Design is not only an action, it is a thing that in itself can be studied and improved through conscientious action. Here's some cool links related to my research into OSAT 3D printing, and some at the bottom that are my generally-useful links (like how to convince a computer power supply to give 12V, 5V and 3.3V).

General 3D Printing Links

Cool Print Things (*.STL)

Useful RapMan Links

Appropedia RapMan Pages

  1. RapMan
  2. Rapman protocol
  3. 3D_Model_to_G-Code_File_for_Rapman

Excellent place to start when you first get your kit
Recovering from a RapMan print crash
Analyzing initial RapMan prints problems (forum)
User submitted RapMan manual notes
Some STL test parts from BFB
Guide to first Rapman steps and settings

"... Then manually extrude about half a meter of filament at the temperature you set in the G-code file. See if the plastic flows as planned, i.e. 5mm/second ... Always extrude at least 30 cm of plastic at high temperature (e.g. 248 for color ABS) before running the file. When we started printing from a "cold" situation without extruding some plastic before hand, no plastic came out at start and then the nozzle would get stuck in some mess... If you plan to print a larger object, e.g. 12cm long, then make the raft temperature higher than 235 or 238 (my standard setting). The plastic will warp more and therefor attempt to rip it off. I don't have any setting yet, but I'd go for a temperature of 240 or higher and a yet fatter raft, e.g. set M108 to S600.0. But don't blame me if you can't get it off the print bed. Play it incrementally :) ..."

Tony's blog with some skeinforge calibration comments
Detailed discussion of SkeinForge for RapMan
Extruder setup instructions

"... Take care with the heater and thermistor wires to ensure they do not touch and that they remain insulated from the support structure. ... The result of not doing this [including insulation ring] would be very difficult starting, the plastic goes soft a long way up the PTFE. This will work the first time but after it has cooled the extended melt zone takes a long time to soften again. If you run the extruder like this it will most likely cause a mechanical failure. ... If its impossible to get a flow by hand feeding, increase your temperature in 5 degC steps until you can. ..."

Wiki troubleshooting page
Printing with overhangs
Post about beginning Skeinforge
Post about skeinforge beta frontend for rapman
Post about overhang ability


Kapton tape extruder head
Supplier for BFB hotend thermistor, Semitec 204GT-1
Guide to Thermistors
Forum post about fire cement and alternatives
Fire cement mix
Replacement 200k ohm 300C thermistor, HoneyWell 135-204QAG-J01
Short rapman maintenance guide
How to videos for classroom on the file management
Alundum cement info


PLA print settings for RapMan
ABS print settings for RapMan
RapMan print settings
Brief notes on calibration
Tony's blog post on calibrating
Script to generate G-Code for a 1-wall object
Post on fixing blocked hotends
Post on calibration settings affecting blockages
Post on making skeinforge generate objects with a thick and joined wall
Post about next steps after build

Warping Print bed

Forum - put a washer under it, thicker bed
Forum - more screws, washer under it

Mendel Links

Wikis and Forums