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If you feel the need to contact me personally about this project, use this email: goodsignal at appropedia dot org
Regards, Gabe. -GoodSignal 13:21, 16 June 2007 (PDT)
This is great! I am so excited to see the details that go with this awesome outline. I wikified the outline (to the 4th level deep), although maybe it should be wikified deeper (just keep adding ='s). What do you think? Maybe it is easier for you to work the other way, so the text outline is still at the bottom, and you can always just revert to your last save.
Thank you for getting this going, it is a great addition to the knowledge base on home greywater systems. --Lonny 11:58, 14 June 2006 (PDT)
who is the contact
I am interested in finding out more about this project. I live in santa rosa, not far from occidental. I would like to talk to the person, or group, who did this project.
thanks Mandeep email@example.com
power consumption of the air pump
I called airtech and gathered some info about the air pump. I am assuming you used the JP40C. Its rated at 300 watts. Assuming that this is the only air pump used to supply all the aeration needs (both the drums and storage tank) and that it runs 24/7, it comes to about (300 x 24 x 30 ) 216Kwh per month. Lowest rate for 1kwh in our area is about 11 c. So it costs about $23.76 per month to run this pump. Could be more if you cross into higher tiers.
I am interested in recycling grey water but storing it in a pond. Any idea what type of aeration pump will do for just the 4 drums.
- Does the pump HAVE to run 24/7? Seems like overkill, and a huge energy user (couldn't be practically used on off-grid alternative energy systems, it would need at least a 1000 watts worth of solar panel. not cheap.) --Naught101 17:30, 12 January 2008 (PST)
- I think this calls for a page on non-mechanical methods of aerating water - e.g. allowing the water to run over gravel, or a tiered waterfall (making sure there's proper spacing to allow splashing). Don't know how effective it would be, and of course it depends on how much height difference is availablebut it shou ld at least reduce the need for pumping. --Chriswaterguy · talk 18:12, 12 January 2008 (PST)
No, I believe the air pump installed on this system only uses about 50 Watts. Here's a link to its specifications: Airtech 40. It's more than sufficiently aerating 700 gallons. GoodSignal 20:59, 12 January 2008 (PST)
Some Questions for cleaner water
Great project here.
I have some questions. How do you initially seed the bacteria when starting a new cycle every season?
- I just buy a bottle of Roebic Laboratories K-87 soap digester and split the bottle between the drums and reservoir. Look over the section, Beginning of season, one more time. --GoodSignal 08:52, 19 November 2008 (UTC)
Will adding some ceramic noodles such as the ones used in an aquariums help to sustain the bacterial colony?
- I'm not familiar with the ceramic noodles you are referring too. Maybe you could provide a link or describe them further. If it's media designed to create more surface area for bacteria to adhere to, then I would recommend it. Otherwise, I would go with one of the types of media available for sale (a couple of links provided below). Providing surface area significantly increases the number of thriving beneficial bacteria, allowing for more efficient system. --GoodSignal 08:52, 19 November 2008 (UTC)
- One method that I haven't tried yet, but would be thrilled if someone ventured to experiment with is: Using the plastic in your recycle bin as a bio-media. I would cut of the bottoms of a bunch of plastic bottles and stuff all the pieces in a few mesh bags -- like the ones that onions and potatoes come in when you buy them in larger quantities. Then hang the mesh bags full of plastic cuttings in the drums (maybe not the first drum though). Cutting the bottoms off the bottles is essential because we don't want to create any water pockets where oxygen from the aeration can't flow freely -- any pockets that aren't sufficiently aerated have the risk of becoming an anaerobic environment. Using the mesh bags makes periodic cleanings so much easier -- just hoist the bags out, spray them down, clean out the drums, then drop the bags back in when finished. I would like to see this work because all the material is free, and most of us have access to a relatively endless supply of empty plastic bottles. --GoodSignal 08:52, 19 November 2008 (UTC)
- If you have some money and want to go with a product designed for this purpose, consider the following products:
With just aeration for the bacteria to feed on, will this be enough to produce a non hazardous water for flushing toilets?
- I believe that depends on the biological oxygen demand (BOD) of the reclaimed water coming out of the system. If the BOD is low (I'm sorry I can't tell you how low it should be) then I think it would be a great use for the reclaimed water. But if the BOD levels are high, then you risk creating an anaerobic environment because water sitting in the toilet's tank and bowl is stagnant between flushes. An anaerobic aquatic environment will introduce very unpleasant odors. --GoodSignal 08:52, 19 November 2008 (UTC)
When it comes directly from the reservoir If I add a UV sterilizer, similar to the aquariums to the water exiting the last drum and before being stored. Will this help to kill any remaining hazardous bacteria?
- Very likely. The effluent from the system I built is, optically, very clear; So, I think UV treatment would be effective at sterilizing the water. However, keep in mind that whatever dead bacteria that are left in the water are essentially nutrients that new bacteria (if introduced) would likely feed on. A BOD test would give an idea about how much bacteria is present.
- I'm sure any manufacturer of these UV treatment systems would be glad to give you vast quantities of literature to tell you all about it. --GoodSignal 08:52, 19 November 2008 (UTC)
Thanks for all the details.