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{{under construction|May 2019}}
{{under construction|May 2019}}
This article discusses planting [[trees]], for example in the establishment of a [[forest garden]], or a more traditional type of [[garden]] or [[orchard]]. Tree planting may also be applicable to planting of a [[windbreak]], and of course [[reforestation]] schemes.
This article discusses planting [[trees]], for example in the establishment of a [[forest garden]], or a more traditional type of [[garden]] or [[orchard]]. Tree planting may also be applicable to planting of a [[windbreak]], and of course [[reforestation]] schemes.


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As a reminder, it is very important that the placement of trees be considered with reference to the mature canopy spread, not planting trees too densely where they will compete with each other for light. In a temperate climate forest garden, planting the tree layer too densely results in a closed canopy with insufficient light penetration to allow lower layers to be productive, and also likely will result in a lot of future pruning or even removal of trees.
As a reminder, it is very important that the placement of trees be considered with reference to the mature canopy spread, not planting trees too densely where they will compete with each other for light. In a temperate climate forest garden, planting the tree layer too densely results in a closed canopy with insufficient light penetration to allow lower layers to be productive, and also likely will result in a lot of future pruning or even removal of trees.
It is very beneficial if all grass and perennial weeds have been killed or removed as these will compete with estlishing young trees and slow their growth. One way of doing this is sheet mulching from the previous autmun. Do not use herbicide chemicals. While that is the preferable situation, in the event that tree planting is required immediately, it is assumed in the rest of the article that the planting site has grass as groundcover, e.g. a garden lawn or a field.


==Tools==
==Tools==
Planting a tree is easier if there are at least 2 people.
Planting a tree is easier if there are at least 2 people.


* '''Tree'''
* '''Spade and fork''': Long-handled digging spade and garden forks require less bending over, and less muscular effort to produce leverage. Modern gardening tools developed from mining tools which were designed to be used kneeling down. Furthermore, people are on average taller than they were 200 years ago.<ref name=wilson2007 />
* '''Spade and fork''': Long-handled digging spade and garden forks require less bending over, and less muscular effort to produce leverage. Modern gardening tools developed from mining tools which were designed to be used kneeling down. Furthermore, people are on average taller than they were 200 years ago.<ref name=wilson2007 />
* Stakes  
* Stakes  
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* Tree tie
* Tree tie
* Bonemeal
* Bonemeal
* Mychorryzial fungi
* Mycorrhizae fungi
* Bucket
* Watering can or other watering source
* Tree guard or spiral
* Mulch (e.g. chipped bark)
   
   
==Best time to plant==
==Best time to plant==


This depends on what type of trees you are planting.
This depends on what type of trees you are planting.
Between October and April.<ref name=rhs>[https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/how-to-plant-a-tree How to plant a tree (Royal Horticultural society).}</ref>


Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or after heavy rain when the ground is waterlogged. As a general rule, if the soil is sticking to your boots, digging will damage soil structure. Consider waiting for things to dry out more.<ref name=pike2011>The Fruit Tree Handbook. B Pike. Green Books, 2011</ref>
Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or after heavy rain when the ground is waterlogged. As a general rule, if the soil is sticking to your boots, digging will damage soil structure. Consider waiting for things to dry out more.<ref name=pike2011>The Fruit Tree Handbook. B Pike. Green Books, 2011</ref>
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'''Size'''
'''Size'''


Generally, the hole should be twice as big as the root ball of the tree.
Generally, the hole should be at least twice as big as the root ball of the tree. This gives the roots space to move out of their root ball and not immediately encounter the edge of the original hole. Some advise a hole 2.5 or 3 times as big as the root ball.  


'''Square vs. round hole'''
'''Square vs. round'''


Square pit may be better than a round pit as the extra space may encourage the roots to grow out laterally from the original hole.<ref name=wilson2007>Wilson, M; Royal Horticultural Society (2007). [https://www.worldcat.org/title/new-gardening-how-to-garden-in-a-changing-climate/oclc/141382734 New gardening : how to garden in a changing climate.] Mitchell Beazley. ISBN 9781845333058.</ref> When the roots grow and encounter undisturbed soil at the edge of round hole planting, they may be deflected and end up going round in circles.
Square pit may be better than a round pit as the extra space may encourage the roots to grow out laterally from the original hole.<ref name=wilson2007>Wilson, M; Royal Horticultural Society (2007). [https://www.worldcat.org/title/new-gardening-how-to-garden-in-a-changing-climate/oclc/141382734 New gardening : how to garden in a changing climate.] Mitchell Beazley. ISBN 9781845333058.</ref> When the roots grow and encounter undisturbed soil at the edge of round hole planting, they may be deflected and end up going round in circles.
'''Spoking'''
This is where the spade is driven in to the sides of the hole, like the spokes of a wheel. This prevents the roots encountering a continuous wall of undisturbed soil when they reach the edge of the original hole.
'''Depth'''


'''Technique'''
'''Technique'''


Consider placing the topsoil and the subsoil in different piles when digging the hole.<ref name=seymour2014 />
Consider placing the topsoil and the subsoil in different piles when digging the hole.<ref name=seymour2014 />  


Consider putting stones in the bottom of the hole to encourage drainage.<ref name=seymour2014 />
Some advise putting a dead animal in the hole, claiming that the release of nutrients such as calcium as it decomposes will be of great benefit to the establishing tree.<ref name=seymour2014 /> Indeed, sometimes trees are used to mark the burial spots for pets or even humans for traditional, religious or otherwise sentimental reasons. 


==Staking==
==Staking==
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Firstly, the site should ideally not be too exposed to wind, particularly the salty sea breezes of maritime exposure which many trees will struggle with. It may be advantageous to establish a [[windbreak]] before planting.
Firstly, the site should ideally not be too exposed to wind, particularly the salty sea breezes of maritime exposure which many trees will struggle with. It may be advantageous to establish a [[windbreak]] before planting.


Staking gives the tree support while the roots are becoming established. Often the stake is removed after 1 or 2 years as it is no longer needed. However, neglected stakes can cause damage to the tree.  
Staking is intended to give the tree support while the roots are becoming established. However some advise against staking completely claiming that the stem, branches and roots will all develop to be stronger without any stake. Generally speaking however if the tree is top heavy or strong winds are a possibility then staking is desirable.
 
Often the stake is removed after 1 or 2 years as it is no longer needed. However, neglected stakes can cause damage to the tree.  


Sometimes stakes are intended to be permanent. For example, fruit trees on dwarfing root stocks may benefit from permanent staking.<ref name=pike2011 />  
Sometimes stakes are intended to be permanent. For example, fruit trees on dwarfing root stocks may benefit from permanent staking.<ref name=pike2011 />  
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'''Angle'''
'''Angle'''


Vertical stakes can be used. Stakes at 45 degrees are angled away from the root ball and so are ideal for planting pot grown trees.
Vertical stakes can be used. Stakes at 45 degrees are angled away from the root ball and so are ideal for planting pot grown trees.  


'''Position'''
'''Position'''
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'''Technique'''
'''Technique'''


Put the stake in the planting hole before putting the tree in the hole. Doing it while the tree is in the hole may damage the roots of the tree.
Put the stake in the planting hole before putting the tree in the hole. Doing it while the tree is in the hole may damage the roots of the tree. However, many sources advise staking after the tree has been planted.
 
Hammer the stake into the ground (use a sledge hammer). Needless to say the stake needs to be very strongly set in the ground.
 
==Root ball preparation==
The root ball can be thoroughly soaked. Do not do with with a strong jet of water as this will lead to loss of soil and expose the roots unnecessarily. It is better to soak the root ball in a vessel of water, e.g. a bucket.<ref name=rhs />
 
Loosen the root ball by gently digging fingers into the sides of the root ball and easing roots outwards. Do not snap the roots. This encourages roots to grow into the soil. This is particularly beneficial if the tree is pot bound.
 
==Tree placement==
 
A length of wood can be placed across the hole to easily judge the level of the soil at the planting site relative to the "Nursery line" (the original level of soil in the container).
 
If the level of the tree is too low, add more topsoil to the mound at the base of the hole. It is too high
 
==Backfilling==
It is important to backfill the hole with the native soil. If rich compost and fertiliser are used, then the roots will not be encouraged to grow out of the original hole. However, some advise to use a mix of 3 parts soil to one part compost.<ref name=seymour2014 />
 
Try not to leave any air pockets next to the roots in the backfill. The backfill should be fairly firmly tamped down, which can simply be done with a boot. It is important the stem is held upright by another person while backfilling and firming the soil down the sides of the root ball. The final resting position is as close as possible to vertical. If the tree is planted with the stem at an angle, it will always grow at that position and will be unbalanced.
 
==Feeding==
 
==Watering==
 
==Protecting==
 
==References==
==References==
{{reflist}}
{{reflist}}

Revision as of 12:59, 5 May 2019

Template:Under construction This article discusses planting trees, for example in the establishment of a forest garden, or a more traditional type of garden or orchard. Tree planting may also be applicable to planting of a windbreak, and of course reforestation schemes.

Prior stages

Ideally, the site will have been assessed and a design determined. Depending on local conditions, drainage, water retention, soil improvements, etc. may have also been carried out prior to planting. The exact position of each tree according to the design is marked by placing stakes in the ground.

As a reminder, it is very important that the placement of trees be considered with reference to the mature canopy spread, not planting trees too densely where they will compete with each other for light. In a temperate climate forest garden, planting the tree layer too densely results in a closed canopy with insufficient light penetration to allow lower layers to be productive, and also likely will result in a lot of future pruning or even removal of trees.

It is very beneficial if all grass and perennial weeds have been killed or removed as these will compete with estlishing young trees and slow their growth. One way of doing this is sheet mulching from the previous autmun. Do not use herbicide chemicals. While that is the preferable situation, in the event that tree planting is required immediately, it is assumed in the rest of the article that the planting site has grass as groundcover, e.g. a garden lawn or a field.

Tools

Planting a tree is easier if there are at least 2 people.

  • Tree
  • Spade and fork: Long-handled digging spade and garden forks require less bending over, and less muscular effort to produce leverage. Modern gardening tools developed from mining tools which were designed to be used kneeling down. Furthermore, people are on average taller than they were 200 years ago.[1]
  • Stakes
  • Sledge hammer
  • Tree tie
  • Bonemeal
  • Mycorrhizae fungi
  • Bucket
  • Watering can or other watering source
  • Tree guard or spiral
  • Mulch (e.g. chipped bark)

Best time to plant

This depends on what type of trees you are planting.

Between October and April.[2]

Avoid planting when the ground is frozen or after heavy rain when the ground is waterlogged. As a general rule, if the soil is sticking to your boots, digging will damage soil structure. Consider waiting for things to dry out more.[3]

Sometimes it is advised to dig the hole a few days prior to planting. However, this may lead to the surface of soil in the hole becoming hardened.[4]

Hole

Size

Generally, the hole should be at least twice as big as the root ball of the tree. This gives the roots space to move out of their root ball and not immediately encounter the edge of the original hole. Some advise a hole 2.5 or 3 times as big as the root ball.

Square vs. round

Square pit may be better than a round pit as the extra space may encourage the roots to grow out laterally from the original hole.[1] When the roots grow and encounter undisturbed soil at the edge of round hole planting, they may be deflected and end up going round in circles.

Spoking

This is where the spade is driven in to the sides of the hole, like the spokes of a wheel. This prevents the roots encountering a continuous wall of undisturbed soil when they reach the edge of the original hole.

Depth

Technique

Consider placing the topsoil and the subsoil in different piles when digging the hole.[4]

Consider putting stones in the bottom of the hole to encourage drainage.[4]

Some advise putting a dead animal in the hole, claiming that the release of nutrients such as calcium as it decomposes will be of great benefit to the establishing tree.[4] Indeed, sometimes trees are used to mark the burial spots for pets or even humans for traditional, religious or otherwise sentimental reasons.

Staking

Firstly, the site should ideally not be too exposed to wind, particularly the salty sea breezes of maritime exposure which many trees will struggle with. It may be advantageous to establish a windbreak before planting.

Staking is intended to give the tree support while the roots are becoming established. However some advise against staking completely claiming that the stem, branches and roots will all develop to be stronger without any stake. Generally speaking however if the tree is top heavy or strong winds are a possibility then staking is desirable.

Often the stake is removed after 1 or 2 years as it is no longer needed. However, neglected stakes can cause damage to the tree.

Sometimes stakes are intended to be permanent. For example, fruit trees on dwarfing root stocks may benefit from permanent staking.[3]

Usually stakes are just lengths of wood, square (e.g. 3cm by 3cm / approx. 1 inch by 1 inch)[3] or round in cross section.

Length Shorter stakes may be better than long stakes as it allows the trunk to flex and strengthen in the wind.[1] Shorter stakes encourage strong root growth while longer stakes may result in the tree being reliant on the stake for support.[3] Recommended stake lengths include 0.5m (1'8") above ground level,[3] with the original length being 1-1.25m (3-4').[3]

Trees trained in the form of pyramids or spindlebushes benefit from a permanent long stake.[3]

Angle

Vertical stakes can be used. Stakes at 45 degrees are angled away from the root ball and so are ideal for planting pot grown trees.

Position

The stake should be downwind (leeward) relative the to the direction of the prevailing wind. If the stake is placed upwind (windward) then the trunk may be chronically blown against the stake. The constant contact may create a wound which can be a route of entry for disease.[3] For multistemmed trees and shrubs, the stake can be tied to the largest stem.

Number

2 or 3 stakes can be used as an alternative to one very large stake.

Technique

Put the stake in the planting hole before putting the tree in the hole. Doing it while the tree is in the hole may damage the roots of the tree. However, many sources advise staking after the tree has been planted.

Hammer the stake into the ground (use a sledge hammer). Needless to say the stake needs to be very strongly set in the ground.

Root ball preparation

The root ball can be thoroughly soaked. Do not do with with a strong jet of water as this will lead to loss of soil and expose the roots unnecessarily. It is better to soak the root ball in a vessel of water, e.g. a bucket.[2]

Loosen the root ball by gently digging fingers into the sides of the root ball and easing roots outwards. Do not snap the roots. This encourages roots to grow into the soil. This is particularly beneficial if the tree is pot bound.

Tree placement

A length of wood can be placed across the hole to easily judge the level of the soil at the planting site relative to the "Nursery line" (the original level of soil in the container).

If the level of the tree is too low, add more topsoil to the mound at the base of the hole. It is too high

Backfilling

It is important to backfill the hole with the native soil. If rich compost and fertiliser are used, then the roots will not be encouraged to grow out of the original hole. However, some advise to use a mix of 3 parts soil to one part compost.[4]

Try not to leave any air pockets next to the roots in the backfill. The backfill should be fairly firmly tamped down, which can simply be done with a boot. It is important the stem is held upright by another person while backfilling and firming the soil down the sides of the root ball. The final resting position is as close as possible to vertical. If the tree is planted with the stem at an angle, it will always grow at that position and will be unbalanced.

Feeding

Watering

Protecting

References

Template:Reflist

See also

External links

  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 Wilson, M; Royal Horticultural Society (2007). New gardening : how to garden in a changing climate. Mitchell Beazley. ISBN 9781845333058.
  2. 2.0 2.1 [https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/how-to-plant-a-tree How to plant a tree (Royal Horticultural society).}
  3. 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.3 3.4 3.5 3.6 3.7 The Fruit Tree Handbook. B Pike. Green Books, 2011
  4. 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.3 4.4 Seymour, M (2014). The New Self-Sufficient Gardener: The complete illustrated guide to planning, growing, storing and preserving your own garden produce. Dorling Kindersley. ISBN 9781409346784.
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