Tmjohnst (talk) 07:18, 1 December 2015 (PST) Kev Man (talk) 07:49, 1 December 2015 (PST)
Nesting to Improve 3D Printing
- Filament directly from filament extruder.
- Gear reduction to do finer resolution parts.
- Extruder hidden within the frame.
- Heated bed hidden within the frame.
- Delta rods shorten and lengthen to change movement speed for accuracy.
- Frame uses extendable vertical columns.
- Belts use straps that can easily extend the belt's usable length.
- Hide belt within frame to reduce exterior moving parts.
- (Obvious) Use traps on ALL bolts to improve looks (countersinking).
- Use sheathed bowden sheath with an interlock so that the sheath can be extended at will (for use with extending rods).
- Use a filament extruder directly in place of the extruder head - directly print with recycled stuff.
- Use a combined stepper driver and computer (Omit Melzi somehow).
- Add lights inside the end effector during print to conceal lighting (aesthetic).
- Use extendable parts on the entire frame (like a step ladder or something).
- Have a segmented bed that can expand with inserts (like a table leaf).
- Use stronger vertical beams to omit exterior frame.
- Use frame as part of wireways (some kind of trench).
- Make the vertical parts of the frame interlock with the horizontal to improve ease of assembly.
- Use snap-together locks in place of bolts to make the frame hold itself together (can't be done with wood probably).
- Mount extruder on end effector (increase weight and momentum but decrease jams/clogs).
- Add filter to extruder to filter and extrude in the same motion.
- Add vibration segments in the rods to reduce momentum vibration.
- Add 3D-printed U-joints to the end effector and omit purchase parts.
- Add cooling head next to hot end to simultaneously cool and extrude to decrease deflection.
- Add wi-fi capability to the board to make machine wirelessly accessible.
- Combine frame with beams to decrease segmentation.