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Background

The Jefferson Project is an amazing example of hope. The Jefferson Community Center (JCC) used to be the Jefferson Elementary School, but it has become a safe haven for the community, young and old, in Eureka, California, thanks to the community volunteers from the Westside Community Improvement Association (WCIA).

The first goal of the project was to redevelop a small patch of land at JCC that has become swampy andover-saturated with water into a native plant garden. Since 100% of the rainwater that is collected by the community center is maintained onsite and drains to one area, the flat swampy area would need to be redesigned to allow better water drainage. To do this, we would need to first excavate a dry creek bed and fill it with gravel, which creates a path of least resistance for the water, i.e. better drainage. We would then need to build up mounds in the area around the creeks so that plants with low water needs can be further raised above the swampy water, allowing the plants to thrive.

The second goal of the project was to create educational signage for the native plants and outreach to the community, giving them a chance to be involved in the Jefferson Project. This entails painting signs on the stone wall behind the area in question with signs that highlight native plant species, giving some background on their historical/cultural uses locally. Since part of the Jefferson Project's mission is to involve the community, part of our job is reaching out to people in the community to be involved in this process, as well as the first part of the project.

The project for this Spring 2017 semester is located on 1000 B Street, and our team will be collaborating with Heidi Benzonelli-Burden, Monty Caid from Lost Foods, Bill Rodstrom and Pete Haggard of Native Plant Society, and Lonny Grafman. The team consists of Humboldt State University’s Engineering 305 Appropriate Technology students Richard Moog and Kathrine Sanguinetti, the project’s "Build and Educate Team" who will help with "Jefferson Native Park Design."

Problem statement

The problem that needs to be addressed is the swampy area at Jefferson Community Center needs to be rehabilitated to allow for a more healthy ecosystem. It is a problem because it is an eyesore, and it can be dangerous if someone slips on the mud (which often overflows to the adjacent sidewalk). The goal of our project is to redesign the landscape to better manage the water onsite, as well as provide an area that can educate the community with information on native plants and provide opportunities for them to help at the community center.

Criteria

The following Criteria will be used to assess the success of the project. These criteria were chosen with the help of Director Heidi Benzonelli and the students designing the Native Landscaping Project. The scale (1-10) represents the importance of each constraint meeting the criteria where 1 is the lowest and 10 is the highest.

Criteria Constraints Weight
(1-10)
Durability Plants/land forms must be able to withstand people walking on them, and also sports balls that might fly in from adjacent events field.
9
Safety Must be designed to minimize risk of injury to those who use the area.
10
Educational/Interpretation Concepts Provide signage with information about 4 or 5 of the native plant species in a user-friendly way.
10
Accessibility Community must be able harvest fruit bearing and medicinal plants.
8
Availabilty of plants Plants must be available from local nurseries and be in stock.
10
Size Must be able desired variety of plants in the provided work area.
10
Design Design must promote healthy plant growth for all plants.
9
Maintenance Low upkeep from year to year.
7
Budget Must not exceed budget of $5000 for the community center.
9

Construction

The Construction can be divided into three different phases. First there is the reshaping of the land, then there is the planting phase, and finally there is educational signage creation.

Reshaping

To reform the landscape, we had to reshape the land structure, using added dirt, gravel, and erosion prevention mat, to make an area that was not too saturated with water to plant anything.

The first step was to create the dry creek bed. With the help of volunteers, we began digging the creek bed out, which was approximately three feet in diameter and meandered for aesthetic purposes and help with possible water flow. The dirt that was excavated during this phase was used to build up the mounds. During this phase, the water-soaked soil and rock present in the soil made it hard to dig, but over the course of a few hours we managed to dig it completely. The next step was to put erosion mat along the bottom of the creek bed to prevent the gravel from mixing with the soil and degrading the creek bed. This was done by cutting out 5 foot wide sections of erosion mat and running it along the length of the creek, holding the edges in place with U-pegs. Once the erosion mat was down, we filled the creek bed with size 2 (1"-2" diameter) gravel, which gave the creek bed its appearance and allows for water to drain through it. We then lined the creek bed with larger (4"-10") rocks to give the erosion mat additional support, which finishes up the creek bed.

We then built up and shaped the mounds, which was a fairly simple process since most of the dirt was provided by the excavated stream bed. We had to bring in some extra dirt with a wheelbarrow and use it to build up the mounds. To shape the mounds, the dirt just had to be moved around and tilled to give the landscape a natural appearance. To make the mounds sturdy and help compact it a little, we placed a large piece of plywood and walked around on it.

Planting

After the groundwork was done, the next step of the project was to add plants. Since the purpose of the project is to educate local community members on native plants and support community growth, all of the plants are native plants chosen from local Eureka plant nursery Lost Foods.

With the help of volunteers, we brought in the plants and prepped the area for planting. The only prep work that needed to be done was removing weeds from the mounds, since weeds take nutrients from the young plants and make it difficult for them to grow. This was done by using trowels to manually remove the weeds. Once this was done, the plants were placed based on a predetermined design, giving plants with higher water needs higher spots on the mound, as well as giving larger shrubs more space around them. The holes were then dug and the plants planted. To deter weeds from coming back, we placed mulch on the ground around the plants.

Creating signs

    • Will be added in later**

Proposed Timeline

A proposed timeline for the JCC Native Landscaping Project.

Week of semester (date) Task Description
1 (January 16 2017) Project options pitched Lonny told us about the options for projects.
2 (Jan. 23) Project chosen We chose Jefferson Community Center Native Landscaping Project.
3(Jan. 30) Explore site, meet clients, begin researching Tour the site with project overseer, begin preliminary research on background knowledge that will help us with the project.
4 (Feb. 6) More research, more meetings, brainstorming Met with client and native plant specialists from North Coast Plant Society and Lost Foods, sketched out initial plans.
5 (Feb. 13) Pitch initial design proposal, prototyping, obtain materials, begin landscaping We present the design proposal to Heidi, get feedback. Obtain materials. Start building meandering dry creek bed.
6 (Feb. 20) More Research, plan for planting phase Do more research (specifically on plants), meet with Lost Coast Plant Society and Lost Foods and come up with plant list.
7 (Feb. 27) Continue designing Design plant layout, oversee volunteer planting date following weekend.
8 (Mar. 6) Get feedback, view site At this phase, most of the work has been done due to seasonal limitations on planting. Go back to site and see if changes need to be made.
9 (Mar. 20) Start work on signage Use information about plants used to create educational signage for the site, perhaps more research will be necessary.
10 (Mar. 27) Prepare for 2nd planting date (if necessary) Possible 2nd planting date if more work is needed. Continue reviewing signage.
11 (Apr. 3) Continue work on signage, prototype signs Find ways to prototype signs on-site.
12 (Apr. 10) Check on plants, make final changes if necessary Make sure the landscape is holding up and not flooding, check in with clients.
13 (Apr. 17) Work on project reports Keep checking on site, start working on project report.
14 (Apr. 24) Start preparing for showcase, take it easy Most everything has been done, wait for presentation.
15 (May 1) Complete work, showcase project Work should be completed, showcase project at Wildflower Show and Native Plant Sale.

Costs

This is an initial materials and costs list for the native landscaping project. Due to the nature of the project, this section will be added to and revised as the project continues. At this point in time, we are in the first phase of building the meandering dry creek bed. Examples of items which will be added are each of the native plants, and materials for creating educational signage.

Quantity Material Source Cost ($)
150 cubic feet Cobble Stones Eureka Ready Mix $250
500 square feet Erosion Mat Piersons $130
500 square feet Dirt Wes Green Landscaping Materials $150
50 (assorted) Plants Lost Foods $300
Total Cost $830

Literature Review

This is a review of the available literature relevant to the native landscaping project at Jefferson Community Center. The review consists of the basics for understanding native landscaping, the benefits and advantages, planting and maintenance, and its design. This reviews also explains key elements for the mounds that will be necessary to plant on, and gives an understanding of the local regional climate and soil type. Lastly, the review explains important components to consider when using educational signage in a community area.

Native Landscaping

This subsection includes relevant knowledge of preparing landscapes.

Native

First, it is important to define the term native and what is considered a natural range for a species to ensure there is proper understanding and selection of plants during the native landscaping. Native refers to the specific origin or region of a particular species.[1] A native species is one that occurs naturally in a specific region, is a product of natural forces without human interference, and, for North American plants, has been growing in the wild before European settlement began around 300 years ago.[1] Determining the natural range is not always as straightforward as it may seem; it is defined by the area that a species naturally grows in, which can be interrupted by humans.[1]

Benefits and Advantages

Native landscaping and planting with natives comes with many benefits and advantages. Native plants often have a natural defense system against disease and insects in the area they grow, taking away the need for pesticides that can pollute waterways.[2][3] Once the plants are established, they need only minimal irrigation, keeping water usage at a low.[2] Wildlife also uses native plant communities as a habitat when it meets their needs. These plants can also be used to attract pollinators and preserve the balance of natural ecosystems.[3]

Planting and Maintenance

Fall or winter is the prime time to plant because the soil is softer and rain is more frequent, and planting after March requires extra supplemental watering in order to establish a healthy root system.[4] [2] Adding 3-4 in. of compost to the top soil before planting is beneficial for nutrient intake. In terms of spacing, it is suggested to place trees 10-15 ft. apart, shrubs 5-10 ft. apart, and ground covers 1-3 ft. apart.[2] To maintain plants that have recently been transplanted, it is important to water them deeply and frequently for the first two summers to support healthy growth. Once established though, native plants only require watering during the driest parts of summer.[4] Plants may be moved to a different location if they do not appear to be thriving well to where they will do better. It is also important to pull weeds by hand so the weeds do not rob the native plants of any nutrients, especially in the beginning.[2]

Landscape Design

The goal of landscape design is to use natural features of the area blended with foreign elements to create a landscape that is both ecologically sustainable and aesthetically pleasing. The three main factors to consider when designing an ecologically sustainable garden are the climatic, cultural, and ecological conditions of an area. To reach sustainability, resources have to be treated not as expendable commodities, but rather as a system that should balance inputs and outputs. For design purposes, small plants should be placed where they will not be blocked out by sun and where they will not be blocked out of vision by larger shrubs.[5]

Mounds

To look natural and serve their drainage function, mounds (or berms) should be large enough (in surface area) and gently sloped so that they have a more natural appearance. They are particularly useful in drainage. To be effective, they must be gently sloped enough to support plants and not erode with rainfall and other natural conditions. They should not be taller than about 24 inches and should be 4-6 times as long as they are wide.[6] A diversion ditch may also be advisable, with at least a minor downward grade leading away from the site to be drained.[7]

Soil

One thing to consider when preparing a site for landscaping is soil quality. It is important to watch out for poor water drainage and compaction. Properly drained soil should be an even mix of solid material and surrounding space, which can be either water or air. An excessive water table can be problematic because it promotes anaerobic conditions. Soil quality can be diminished if topsoil is removed and not replenished.[8] Many parts of the Klamath region of California have a high density of igneous rocks, which has a high impact on ecosystem growth. Trees under these conditions are often more spread out and fail to be very productive.[9]

Dry Stream Beds

A dry stream bed is a stone-lined channel that mimics a natural stream. Small boulders and cobble are placed along the meanders as if a water force placed them there[10]. Natural stream beds will widen on the bends at erosion points.[10] Erosion is the removal of soil from the impacts of water, wind, and ice. Over time, these forces will wear away the soil.[11] One of the factors of stream erosion is the change in stream flow, causing boulders that are too large for the current to remain in the middle of the stream or along deposition points (where stream flow is slowest), while smaller ones are washed to the sides.[10] This information is key for understanding where to place boulders and cobble along the dry stream bed and how to shape it.

Regional Climate

“Geographic features such as topography, altitude, proximity to the coast, and latitude to a certain extent define a local area’s weather patterns.”[5] Eureka is known to be a very coastal environment, with very low altitude in the area we will be working. The specific site we are working in, due to the water collection and drainage system in place, resembles and mimics a riparian habitat. In general, the temperature of the region fluctuates very little from season to season and the rain season is very long and almost persists throughout the year, though it drops in the middle of summer.[12] Fog and low clouds are prevalent and so it might be unwise to use plants that have high sun needs. Based on evapotranspiration patterns, there will generally be soil moisture until July in the Humboldt coastal region. The North Coast subregion of the NW California region supports marsh, coastal scrub and fir forests.[13]

Educational Signage

Signage will be a key component of the project, so it is important to understand what makes signs effective and favorable. Signs are important to give an outdoor learning center an identity.[14] They can be simple or complex, they just need to be clear and are best when they represent the character of the community.[14] Most of the attention to signs is from first time visitors, though repeat visitors are known to reread signs when the signs have desirable information, aesthetics and location.[15] Motivators for reading signs are the signs’ location (if they are easily visible and in a natural stopping point), interest in the topic, and relevance to the area they are representing.[15] An ideal sign should have a three-dimensional image of what it is representing, a large title, should show something that cannot easily be seen (such as something underground), and should be located at a natural stopping point.[15]

Conclusion

  • TO BE UPDATED SOON

Testing results

Describe the testing results.

Discussion

Discuss the testing results.

Lessons learned

Discuss lessons were learned during this project and what you would do different next time.

Next steps

Discuss any next steps for the project as it goes on into the future.

Troubleshooting

This is only how to troubleshoot basic operation. For complex issues, the solution might just say contact ________. It should be a table in this format:

Problem Suggestion
Example issue Example solution or suggestion
Does not turn on Make sure it is plugged in
Another issue Et cetera

Team

References

Template:Reflist

  1. 1.0 1.1 1.2 Cook, Edward. 2001. Landscape Restoration Handbook, Second Edition. Restoration Ecology. 9, no. 1: 111-112.
  2. 2.0 2.1 2.2 2.3 2.4 "Landscaping in the Pacifcic Northwest: Native Plants." http://extension.wsu.edu/clark/wp-content/uploads/sites/36/2014/02/native-plants-2008.pdf. Cite error: Invalid <ref> tag; name "LPNW" defined multiple times with different content
  3. 3.0 3.1 "Castillo, Dava, and Rachel Elkins. "Native and Naturalized Plants for the Home Garden in Northern California." http://anrcatalog.ucanr.edu/pdf/8401.pdf.
  4. 4.0 4.1 Kruckeberg, Arthur. 1982. Gardening with Native Plants of the Pacific Northwest : An Illustrated Guide. Seattle: University of Washington Press.
  5. 5.0 5.1 Francis, Mark. 1999. The California Landscape Garden. Los Angeles: University of California Press.
  6. Gilmer, Maureen. 2017. "Landscaping Earthworks." Landscaping Network. https://www.landscapingnetwork.com/lawns/berms-mounds.html.
  7. Rost, Bob. 2003. "Solutions to Landscape Drainage Problems." Oregon State University. Feb 19. http://extension.oregonstate.edu/gardening/solutions-landscape-drainage-problems.
  8. Fare, Donna C, and Wayne K Clatterbuck. n.d. "Trees for Poorly Drained Soils in the Landscape." University of Tennessee. https://extension.tennessee.edu/publications/documents/SP533.pdf.
  9. Graham, R.C., and A.T. O'Geen. 2009. "Soil mineralogy trends in California landscapes." Geoderma 418-437.
  10. 10.0 10.1 10.2 Williams, Robert. "Making Places: Garden-Mastery and English Brown." The Journal of Garden History 3.4 (1983): 382-85. Web. http://extension.wsu.edu/clark/wp-content/uploads/sites/36/2014/02/drystreambeds.pdf.
  11. Erosion Control. West Palm Beach, FL: Erosion Control, 1976. Web. https://depts.washington.edu/propplnt/Chapters/erosioncontrolchapter%5B1%5D.pdf.
  12. Elford, Robert. 1964. The Climate of Humboldt and Del Norte Counties. Eureka: Agricultural Extension Service University Of California.
  13. 2013. "Jepson eFlora: Geographic Subdivisions." University of California, Berkeley. http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/IJM.html.
  14. 14.0 14.1 Crabtree/Life Lab, Margo , ed. "Getting Started: A Guide for Creating School Gardens as Outdoor Classrooms." Accessed January 29, 2017. http://extension.missouri.edu/healthylife/resources/schoolgardening/GettingStarted_SchoolGardens.pdf.
  15. 15.0 15.1 15.2 Davis, Shawn K. , and Jessica L. Thompson. "Investigating the Impact of Interpretive Signs at Neighborhood Natural Areas." Journal of Interpretation Research 16, no. 2 (December 1, 2011): 56-66. Accessed January 30, 2017. http://web.b.ebscohost.com.ezproxy.humboldt.edu/ehost/pdfviewer/pdfviewer?sid=f4b95048-960f-4317-9309-a3f5e017b18f%40sessionmgr101&vid=1&hid=125.
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