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This article is about the plant species Ribes uva-crispa, a shrub with edible fruit commonly referred to as Gooseberry. The berries are usually green, but different cultivars produce a range of yellow, red or white fruit. The flavour is usually tart but desert varieties tend to be sweeter. In a temperate climate forest garden, gooseberries perform excellently in the shrub layer since they are fairly shade tolerant. Along with other Ribes spp. such as blackcurrants (R. nigrum) and redcurrants/whitecurrants (R. rubrum), some consider gooseberries to be the backbone of the shrub layer. They are woodland plants in their natural state.
- 1 Background Information
- 2 Behaviour
- 3 Cultivation: Site Selection
- 4 Cultivation: Techniques
- 5 Harvest
- 6 Preservation
- 7 Uses
- 8 Cooking
- 9 Nutritional Values
- 10 References
Species: R. uva-crispa (sometimes R. grossularia)
- Goosegog (UK)
- "Whinhan's Industry": especially shade tolerant and therefore more appropriate for forest gardens.
Originally a woodland and hedgerow plant, the first selective breeding took place in the British Isles in the 16th century, particularly by amatuer growers in the industrial midlands. Traditionally, gooseberry was grown in orchards in the Fens (Eastern England). Yearly gooseberry competions with awards for the largest gooseberry took place in Lancashire, and still take place in some UK villages.
Single trunked, multistemmed deciduous shrub. Mature height 1-1.5m and similar spread.
Leaves are 3 or 4 lobed and have blunt toothed margins.
The roots are shallow but spread laterally to a significant degree.
Cultivation: Site Selection
USDA hardiness zone 5.
Slight preference for heavy soils, but can thrive in almost any soil.
Overall, gosoeberries are quite easy to grow. Typically purchased from suppliers as bare-rooted or potted bushes. Advised times to plant range from: winter, or autumn-winter, or autumn to spring. Plant when the weather and soil are favourable, i.e. not during frost and not straight after heavy rain. To prepare the site, one method is to dig deeply and mix manure or compost in the top layer, over a wide area (gooseberry has shallow, lateral spreading roots).
Bushes and standard trained plants should be spaced 90cm to 1.5m apart. As cordons, gooseberries should be spaced 30cm to 45cm apart (in the row). With the deep bed method, the spacing can be reduced to 1.2m.
Gooseberries are good for small gardens since they fruit heavily and do not take a lot of space (particularly if trained as cordons), and can also be used to utilise shaded areas. Gooseberries can even crop fairly well in a tub, e.g. on a patio.
In a temperate climate forest garden, gooseberries perform excellently in the shrub layer since they are quite shade tolerant. Along with other Ribes spp. such as blackcurrants (R. nigrum) and redcurrants/whitecurrants (R. rubrum), some consider gooseberries to be the backbone of the shrub layer. They are woodland plants in their natural state. Some even state that gooseberry is one of the most useful plants for the shrub layer (UK).
- Hardwood cuttings: take cuttings in late autumn and place them in outdoors nursery bed.
- Mounding: one method of obtaining many rooted plants for transplanting is to hard prune an old bush to within 30cm of the ground in early spring. This encourages new shoots. In midsummer, heap a mound of earth and compost around the bush so that only the tips of the new shoots are visible. In autumn the new canes will have rooted and can be carefully removed from the rest of the plant.
- Mulch: mulch generously in spring with manure.
- Weeding: avoid using a hoe since the roots are shallow.
Gooseberry can be grown as bushes, cordons or standards,
- Bush: keep centre of the bush form open to prevent stagnant air and easy access to fruit.
- Cordon: when trained as a cordon, gooseberries take up minimal space, and it is easier to harvest the fruit without injury. This can be done by tying them to stakes which are supported by horizontal wires.
Overall, gooseberry is not prone to pests and diseases.
- American Gooseberry Mildew: first sign is white felt covering young leaves and shoots. Berries have a brown covering. Do not give bushes too much nitrogen to prevent it. Remove and burn any afffected shoots. One method is to spray with a mixture of soft soap (228g), washing soda (500g) and water (23 litres), and again during flowering and again when fruit is set.
- Powdery Mildew: this can be the main problem. Best prevention is good pruning technique to allow circulation of air through the bush.
- Gooseberry Sawfly: green and black spotted, yellow tailed small caterpillars. They can reproduce 3 times in a single growing season and can eat all the leaves from gooseberry bushes.
- Red Spider Mite: Tiny red mites gather on leaves, which will turn bronze with a white underside, and eventually dry up and die. Use a jet of water to dislodge them.
- Birds: birds may strip off new buds in spring.
Once fully ripe, fruit can be eaten raw.
Pick the fruit with some stalk left attached (remove before storing). One method of quickly harvesting gooseberries is to pull the branches through your hand while wearing a thick glove. Catch the fruit in a sheet. To separate the fruit from fallen leaves and thorns etc, place the contents of the sheet down a board which allows the round fruit to roll down into a container.
- Freeze: To freeze fresh, wash then top and tail the gooseberries and freeze them in resealable plastic bags. Alternatively can be frozen as a puree after stewing and sieving.
- Bottle: This was very common before freezers. Strong bottling jars (either screw topped or clip jars, with rubber sealing rings) are heated to a high temperature for long enough to kill bacteria, yeasts and fungi and stop enzymatic activity. The jars are sealed at heat to prevent contamination with micro-organisms. Bottles can be heated either in a large pan of water or in the oven. Top and tail the fruit first. If heating by water, heat to simmering (88°C) in 30 min, then hold this temp for another 2 min. If heating by oven, heat at 150°C for 40 min (up to 2kg fruit) or 60 min (up to 5kg fruit).
- Alcoholic Beverages -- See: Making fruit, vegetable and flower wines#Berry Wines for several gooseberry wine recipes (The Household Cyclopedia, 1881).
- Jam -- Gooseberries are high in pectin and are useful to add to low pectin fruits which would otherwise not set easily when making jam. Can also be the sole fruit ingredient in a gooseberry jam. Wash, then top and tail. Heat in water and simmer until tender. Continue simmering and stirring until a thick pulp. Add sugar. Stir and boil hard until set.
- Fruit leather -- pulp needs thickening.
- Sauces -- e.g. chutney
- Bee plant
- Gooseberry Pie
- Gooseberry Fool, a traditional English desert.
- Fennel and Gooseberry sauce for mackerel.
- Gooseberry Chutney
- Crawford, M (2016). Creating a Forest Garden: working with nature to grow edible crops. Green Books. ISBN 9781900322621.
- Hart, R (2019). Forest gardening : rediscovering nature and community in a post industrial age. Green Books. ISBN 9781900322027.
- Mabey, R (2012). Food For Free. HarperCollins. ISNB 9780007183036.
- Bird, R (2011). A practical guide to growing vegetables, fruit & herbs. Hermes House. ISBN 9781843098324.
- Seymour, M (2014). The New Self-Sufficient Gardener: The complete illustrated guide to planning, growing, storing and preserving your own garden produce. Dorling Kindersley. ISBN 9781409346784.
- Titchmarsh, A (2008). The kitchen gardener : grow your own fruit and veg. London BBC. ISBN 9781846072017.
- Warren, P (2003). How to Store Your Garden produce : The Key to Self-Sufficiency. Second Edition. Green Books. ISBN 9781903998250.
- Crawford, M; Aitken, C (2013) Food from your forest garden : How to harvest, cook and preserve your forest garden produce. Green Books. ISBN 9780857841124.