Cette page est actuellement EN CONSTRUCTION ((avec des éléments manquants signalés par des doubles crochets comme celui-ci)). Ne faites pas confiance à la construction à moins que vous ne fassiez d'abord un modèle CARDBOARD + PINS. Apportez des questions et des éclaircissements si vous le pouvez, peut-être dans la page de discussion . A dans un mois, et bonne chance ! LucasG 11:07, 28 juillet 2011 (PDT)
Contenu
Contreplaqué H13
- Vinay Gupta a inventé la forme de base en 2003. Le H13 a été conçu par Scott Davis et Dylan Toymaker (conception publiée en novembre 2010). Le H13 ajoute un panneau à l'hexayurte "classique" H12, mais cette feuille de contreplaqué supplémentaire obtient une ligne de toit de 8 pieds et 2 à 3 fois l'espace praticable à l'intérieur de l'hexayurte.
- Le H13 a été construit avec des panneaux en polyiso et il y a même un design pour le rendre pliable . Cette page décrit les spécificités d'un H13 construit en bois . Ça signifie:
- Les connecteurs doivent être plus solides qu'avec des panneaux plus légers.
- Fixer l'hexayurte au sol n'est probablement nécessaire qu'en cas de risque de tremblements de terre ou de glissements de terrain (voir le pdf d'Haïti ci-dessous).
- L'imperméabilisation et la protection contre les insectes doivent être prises en compte, en demandant aux experts locaux.
- La portabilité nécessitera très probablement un groupe de transporteurs synchronisés (ou une aide mécanique quelconque).
Avant de commencer
Regardez les vidéos et jetez un œil aux liens
- Contreplaqué Hexayurt et plus
- H13 :
- VIDEO Écovillage de Cloughjordan ((lien direct vers la vidéo blip))
- PHOTOS Dark Mountain 2011
- H12 :
- Haïti http://vinay.howtolivewiki.com/blog/other/the-hexayurt-in-haiti-a-technical-description-1678 et http://files.howtolivewiki.com/hexayurt_in_haiti_v1.1.pdf
- Sketchup par jumplogic ici .
- VIDEO Engineers Without Borders (Sheffield, Royaume-Uni) http://web.archive.org/web/20110424135209/http://hexayurt.blip.tv:80/file/5012769 et texte sur http://web.archive.org /web/20170505182759/http://piratepad.net:80/jYVkXNdy3n
- VIDÉO Vidéo (Anglais)
- Détails de construction
- Vidéo (sous-titres espagnols)
- Une autre vidéo, avec quelques détails de construction : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fwlIxWomyw
((J'ai pris quelques instantanés de certaines des vidéos afin d'avoir des images fixes pour cette page wiki.))
Outils
Si des outils électriques sont disponibles, utilisez-les. Vous en aurez besoin pour :
- Découpez quelques panneaux : 5 diagonales, coins sri lankais, rognage.
- Coupez le bloc : à 90 degrés, à 120 degrés et à 150 degrés.
- Vis ((environ 200)) ((un nombre plus précis ? Au plus 4 vis par bloc, donc comptez les blocs)) Vis à tête plate de 2 pouces.
Nommer les pièces
- Un "panneau" coupé en diagonale nous donne 2 "triangles". Veuillez vous référer à ce tableau pour nommer les "panneaux" et les "triangles". (Au fait, vous pouvez utiliser ce tableau pour l'imprimer sur du papier, puis le couper et le plier, et simplement coller du ruban adhésif sur les murs (1a à 2a à 3a à 3b à 2b à 1b à 1a).
- Le « mur » a 6 « côtés de mur » : 1a, 2a, 3a, 1b, 2b et 3b. Chacun a un petit triangle coupé. Le triangle est un triangle rectangle : mesurez 6 pouces pour chaque jambe du triangle, puis coupez à travers l'hypothénuse. C'est ce qu'on appelle le coin sri-lankais, car il a été inventé au Sri Lanka ((V a les détails, leur dit dans la vidéo Cloughjordan)).
- The "wall sides" are joined together with 12 wooden blocks, 2 at each angle (one close to the ground, the other closer to 4' height), which are made from 2"x4" wood, cut at a 120º angle.
- The "roof" has 2 "classic roof sides" (4a+5a and 4b+5b), 2 "big roof sides" (6a+7a and 6b+7b), and 2 "horizontal-vertical roof sides" (8a+9a and 8b+9b). ((Not sure if the "big roof sides" are 6+7+8, and then we have "front walls" which would be 3+9. Looks simpler this way, no?))
- There will be "blocks", cut off 2"x4" lumber: some are cut at 120º angle, others at 150º angle and others are used "flat" (signalled with different colors). ((Someone please double-check the blocks with video. I think they are right.LucasG 10:57, 28 July 2011 (PDT)))
Understand overlapping
Polyiso panels are used full-size with no overlapping, but plywood is different.
((The following needs to be checked visually against the video above. "With enough eyes, all bugs are shallow" - Linus Torvalds. So thanks for double-checking!))
As for the normal roof cone - obey the normal order ((this needs further clarification, but for the moment look at the pictures, the video, and try with cardboard models and pins)), until you get to panel 7. 7a and 7b both go *over* 6a and 6b, then 8a and 8b go over 7a and 7b. At the top, along the roof line, 6a-7a-8a extend over 6b-7b-8b.
If the boards are trimmed, a little slot taken out of 7b and 8b, the whole thing should fit tightly at the roof line. The slot is analogous to the roof cone trimming. Let me try to explain.
Basicaly, where 6a overlaps 7a, there's a section where the wood is two layers thick. 7b is pressed against 7a, but at that point of overlap, 6a gets in the way. 7b is trimmed so that 6a doesn't get in the way. You wind up cutting a piece the thickness of one piece of plywood, and as wide as that overlap, out of the top right corner of 7b so that 7b can fit tight against 7a, basically.
This will probably make sense in a model if you overlap the pieces in the model ((this is what Vinay says - do so while further clarification and pictures are brought into this page - or better still, you bring the pictures and the clarity, thanks! LucasG 11:01, 28 July 2011 (PDT))).
Exterior view from left-behind. Where "left" is the grey half, not the light-blue half of the building
Exterior view from left. Where "left" is the grey half
Buy
Wood
- 13 panels of plywood or OSB3. Each is 4" by 8".
- 2" by 4" lumber. ((how much)) ((about 50 blocks of different size, say 3" per block, that would be 12.5 feet, but you also need extra for the "door angle". To be safe, some 20 feet?))
- Also ... no, that's it regarding wood.
Screws
((number)) 2" deck screws. Any head is fine. Non-countersinking screws are better because they don't weaken the plywood wood where the screw is by crushing it or cutting into it. "Wafer head" seems to be the name for these, but I (V) have never found them locally, so I use regular deck screws!
Other stuff
- Glue. ((how much))
- See insulation, door, etc.
Cost
Very local, but let's say it's ... ((18.9€ or less buys a 10 mm thick panel of "Chinese plywood" in a location placed at the very end of many supply lines.))
Build it
Cut wood
Sri Lankan corners: cut off one 6-inch corner of each of the 6 panels that will make the walls. This is called the "Sri Lankan corner" because it was invented in Sri Lanka. ((picture))
If you want to cut a window or two in one of the panels, this is when you do it, but make sure you don't cut through the edge of the panel, so that structural integrity is retained.
Cut triangles: 5 panels, through the diagonal.
Trim off the point of each (?) of the 10 triangles. This is done cutting 2 small triangles off the point. The first ... and the second ... See the figure ((Haiti pdf)).
Trim panels. ((see below))
Cut blocks with different angles:
- flat/straight ((number)) ((size)) ((method))
- 120º ((number)) ((size)) ((method))
- 150º ((number)) ((size)) ((method))
Prepare the building site
Place the walls as an hexagon. To do this, you start by marking the hexagon with a string: place a peg at the center and draw a circle that's 7.5 feet radius, then use the radius from one point in the circle to mark the six corners of the hexagon. Each wall doesn't begin where the previous one ends, but 6 inches before (see figure).
Maybe place blocks and make sure they are aligned with the horizontal plane, with communicating vessels?
Make walls
Start with 6 panels, each 4'x8' (120 cm by 240 cm).
Start with 2-inch by 4-inch wood and cut 12 blocks. Each of the blocks has a 120º angle. There will be 2 blocks in each corner, one near the ground and the other near the roof.
Screw the blocks to join the walls together. ((XXX-number)) of 2" deck screws are needed for each block.
Make roof
The roof is built from the back forwards.
Because we have the nice vertical boards, 9b goes in last, and can be screwed into place from the outside, so nobody is left stuck inside of the hexayurt in the same way as you get with the normal roof cone construction. This is very important and it's a much easier build because we don't have the same problems getting to the last two boards.
When the roof is lifted and put on the walls, however, 9a/9b tends to fall over 3a/3b because, well, there's nothing to stop it! On the rest of the sides, the roof cannot fall past the walls because the roof is at an angle. But these two wall pieces are both vertical, so it falls straight past. I think the answer is to put an 8' high 2x4 piece inside the roof, wedged up against the point to hold it up while the walls are lined up, then screw 9b/3b and so on (ah, that will be 3 more flat blocks each), and then screw the 8' 2x4 piece of wood into the vertical part to hold the point of the roof stable. ((V, please chech that the names of the panels and triangles referred to in this paragraph are okay! Thanks, LucasG 11:04, 28 July 2011 (PDT)))
This is just my (V's) best guess, of course, we're going to need to build a few more before we're completely sure! But the key is that it's actually easier than the regular version.
Also we haven't figured out the best way to do a door yet.
Figure: Near the hand there's the head of a screw, and symetrical to that there's another screw. Both are screwed through the panels to the 150º block. Three blocks per seam.
Put roof on top
Gang carry! ((see video of H12 in EWB))
Beyond the very basics
Door and windows
Windows are easy: cut them before building the walls, don't cut the edge of the panel or you'll lose structural integrity.
Doors haven't been tried on a H13 yet ((as far as I know)).
Insulation
((That's very local. As usual, have a go at it, ask the locals, document your solutions, thank you very much.))
Permanent H13 (ferrocement)
Toilet etc
Help improving the documentation
Suggestion: Get IKEA to sponsor a designer to create visual sequence of assemply instructions (multi-lingual, does not assume literacy)
- raw footage
- pictures ((from video, or taken specifically to show each roof part from outside and from outside - someone in Cloughjordan? (hint, hint)))