Appropedia http://localhost/Welcome_to_Appropedia MediaWiki 1.13.0 first-letter Media Special Talk User User talk Appropedia Appropedia talk Image Image talk MediaWiki MediaWiki talk Template Template talk Help Help talk Category Category talk Portal Portal talk Original Original talk Layout Layout talk 135 7217 2006-11-02T09:59:51Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed contribs to Contributions Contributions 149 7220 2006-11-02T10:07:41Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed cur to Difference to current Difference to current 152 7214 2006-11-02T09:56:52Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed Current revision to Current version Current version 186 7215 2006-11-02T09:58:11Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed diff to Difference Difference 494 6896 2006-10-26T00:26:58Z ATSysop 1 made it more clear what uploading over a file means '''HEY''', Stop and read this. Are you '''sure''' that you want to replace the file $1 that '''already exists''' on Appropedia? This file may be on linked to from many pages, click $1 to learn more about the file. *If you did not know that this file already existed on Appropedia, then your answer is - '''No''', I do not want to replace the file. So click '''Re-Upload''' and pick a more unique name - try using the format ''Projectname_description_number.jpg''. *If you did know that this file already existed, and you are sure that you want to change it, go for it and click '''Save file'''. 539 7216 2006-11-02T09:58:51Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed hist to History History 542 7223 2006-11-02T10:16:48Z ATSysop 1 experimenting with PAGENAME, probably won't work due to action history, but I am too tired to research... just trying it. The following are previous versions of {{PAGENAME}}. <br> To see the difference between two versions, check their radio buttons and click '''Compare selected versions'''. 553 15719 2007-01-24T08:41:40Z Lonny 2 another try Links and Where Is The Page I Was Looking For? 612 7221 2006-11-02T10:10:15Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed last to ...to last (one extra . for a full ellipse) ...to last 621 15720 2007-01-24T08:43:22Z Lonny 2 apparently wikimarkup like ticks are not passed for this MediaWiki message When you click a picture in Appropedia, you are brought to an image page like this one. Did you get to this page on accident? If so, you can click back to the previous page and find where you wanted to go, or check out the pages below that all link to this file: 657 7282 2006-11-03T14:57:48Z Curtbeckmann 67 experiment for www.appropedia.org to go directly to Weclome page (without redirect) Welcome to Appropedia 754 7225 2006-11-02T10:20:54Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed next diff → to Show next difference → Show next difference → 803 7213 2006-11-02T09:52:40Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed article to page Page 859 7226 2006-11-02T10:21:53Z ATSysop 1 following great usability suggestions from [[User:Helge.at|Helge]] - changed ← previous diff to ← Show previous difference ← Show previous difference 894 7219 2006-11-02T10:06:43Z ATSysop 1 can this line be deleted all together? 990 50787 2008-09-12T11:56:12Z Chriswaterguy 49 replace Userlist (not used by many people I assume) with OSNCamp; Community portal (can navigate there from Village pump) with Random * navigation-community ** Welcome_to_Appropedia|Main Page ** recentchanges-url|recentchanges ** Appropedia:CategoryTree|Categories ** helppage|help ** OSNCamp ** Special:Newimages|New images ** :Category:Organizations|Organizations ** Appropedia talk:Village_pump|Village pump ** Special:Random|Random ** forums:support-appropedia|Donate *topics-areas ** Portal:Appropriate technology|Appropriate tech ** Portal:Green living|Green living ** :Category:Water|Water ** :Category:Food and Agriculture|Food / Agriculture ** :Category:Health and safety|Health / Safety ** :Category:Knowledge|Knowledge ** :Category:Energy|Energy ** :Category:Construction and materials|Construction ** :Category:Transport|Transport ** :Category:Projects|Projects ** :Category:How_tos|How tos 1136 6888 2006-10-25T23:45:17Z ATSysop 1 test changing upload text (I want to reiterate that images should be smaller) Upload a file 1152 33459 2008-01-30T03:10:21Z Lonny 2 fixing notice Use the form below to upload files, to view or search previously uploaded images go to the [[Special:Imagelist|list of uploaded files]]. * Make sure that you have permission to post this content under our [[Appropedia:Copyrights|open-source license]]. * Use a '''unique''' name for your file, such as '''projectname_description_number.jpg'''. * Save the photo with no dimension greater than 800 pixels, and do less if big is not necessary. See [[Help:Contents#Avoid_huge_image_files|avoid huge files]] for more on resizing your photos easily. * Save the photo rotated in the proper orientation. * To include the image in a page, use a link in the form '''<nowiki>[[</nowiki>{{ns:image}}:File.jpg<nowiki>]]</nowiki>'''. See [[Help:Contents#Linking|image linking]] in the [[Help:Contents|help]] files for more. 1282 53770 2008-10-08T20:10:16Z Infamouse 1445 /* MediaWiki dumps */ new section If you are logged in, click the '''+''' sign next to the edit tab above to leave me a message. Or just click edit if you are not logged in. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] (see also [[User_talk:Lonny/Archive]] for many past discussions) ==Lonny: Podcast Update== We've just published an interview with professor Anil Gupta of the Honeybee Network. Very interesting, I think you would enjoy it. http://agroinnovations.com/component/option,com_jd-wp/Itemid,173/p,30/ I would be more than happy to do a similar one on one with you, or a more open format with other members at appropedia. Just let me know. Looking forward to it...frank [at] agroinnovations.com == Your thoughts requested... == at [[User_talk:Chriswaterguy#Greenlivingpedia interwiki]]. Thanks. I was going to request input from the moderator of [[:Category:Alternative building]], but then I realized we don't have one yet... Perhaps we should invite Peter to be moderator for [[:Category:Sustainable buildings]], which could have [[:Category:Alternative building]] as a subcat. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 16:02, 16 March 2007 (PDT) == Photovoltaics how-to? == What do you think about moving much of [[:Category:Photovoltaics]] to a how-to? --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 02:53, 4 April 2007 (PDT) :Hi Chris, Great question. I have thinking about what to do with these types of pages. I do not think moving it to a how to is the best idea, as I feel that how tos should be followable step-by-step methods. I do think that the amount of content on [[Photovoltaics]] hides the category links below. Here are a two possible solutions: :#Create a standard _______ basics, for each category page. In this case, [[:Category:Photovoltaics]] would have a prominent link to [[Photovoltaic basics]]. :#Move the subcategories and pages above the content. There is a mediawiki extension that does just that. :I would like to develop a standard. I think that #1 sounds best so far. Do you have any ideas? :When we do come up with a standard, we need to think about what is appropriate on a category page. If we have no text on category pages (as is the standard on some wikis) then we have users needing to click again to find any real information. If we do have text, how much and what type? :Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 19:21, 4 April 2007 (PDT) ::Yep... #1 is a variation on the Wikipedia approach, and I can see the reason for it. I also see why it makes sense to take a different approach, and keep the topic and categories both high profile, since we have multiple content types. ::I need to think more about this. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 02:04, 24 April 2007 (PDT) ::The top of any topic page would have a template notice something like "For more pages on this topic, see the [[:Category:sanitation|'''Sanitation category''']].'' That works well. ::I'm not sure whether to use "XYZ basics" or just have the page name = topic name. This is Wikipedia's approach, albeit in a context of only one content type to deal with. It also makes the abovementioned template workable using <nowiki>{{PAGENAME}}</nowiki>. And I'm not sure yet whether the info will necessarily be basic and would rather let that question be answered organically. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 05:48, 24 April 2007 (PDT) :::I like this discussion of moving the hefty content to a separate page. Low-content category pages are fine (essentially, a few sentences describing the nature of the category), and don't need a separate page. As for naming, I have a slight bias toward using the same name, as WP does, but to me this is a detail. Of course, it's a detail that needs to be worked out :-). But as long as the naming is algorithmic (standardized), it shouldn't be too hard to alter the algorithm. I think there ought to be a way to write some template that points to the page if it exists, but I could be mistaken about that. Also, since if there is no page, then the category name wants to be a redirect (I think), and that could spoil the "if exists" test... Anyway, I'm getting lost in implementation details. --[[User:Curtbeckmann|CurtB]] 10:07, 24 April 2007 (PDT) ::::I'm now leaning strongly towards this change, after thinking about how we deal with topics with multiple aspects - whether the topic deserves subcategories and whether it deserves multiple pages on different aspects, are not quite the same question. It's also easier to create topic pages if we don't have to think so hard about how it fits with the category system. ::::Shall we make this our new policy, at [[Appropedia:Topic content]]? We'll also need to adjust pages and sections such as [[Appropedia:Categories#Topic_categories]] Run it past major topic contributors, and Appropedia team members including [[User:Vinay Gupta]] and [[User:On2Leggs]] before making the changes? --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 19:03, 29 April 2007 (PDT) ::::What about the option of topic pages in mainspace, with the category tree (perhaps in a standard template) at the bottom of every such page? The drawback I can see is that I don't know if the category tree can list actual pages - only subcategories. Actually, is that a drawback, as long as we have clear links to the subcategories, with an explanatory note? ::::Looking at [[mw:Extension:CategoryTree]], maybe we can use <nowiki>{{#categorytree:{{PAGENAME}}}}</nowiki>, if the pagename is consistent with the cat name. Note: I'm not wedded to the idea - just exploring it. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 03:11, 27 November 2007 (PST) ==Promote feed-back from user to designer== Hello! Please help me out! The original, self-made/designed/originated material I contribute to society through the website of my foundation Demotech (www.demotech.org) is also ported by Appropedia. This I highly value for two reasons: *Outgoing: <br/> To be among the mind stuff of people with a similar mindset, to have an opportunity to be inspired, to learn in general *Incoming: <br/> To create the opportunity for feed back from users. This world needs rapid development of any item of Appropriate Technology. Without a mechanism of DIRECT and EFFECTIVE feedback from users on content such as what Demotech offers, further development of this content may stagnate. However, when feedback opportunities are provided this development may soar! For this reason the sole condition for use of Demotech designs is to provide a link back to its origin attached to the information from Demotech. And please, let this link not only contain name and (web)-address of the author, but also a few lines that the author expects explicit and detailed feedback as a rightful reward for its otherwise freely to be used contribution.<br/> As I looked at Creative Commons Licenses, I found the license 'Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0' that seemed somehow to answer what I look for. However not with the specific request condition as named. <br/> I fully realize this condition can not be enforced in practice. Similar as the condition to pay for 'share ware'. But non the less it should be a condition that remains attached to the content as it spreads. Three questions: *Is the 'Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0' -license endorsed by Appropedia? *Where can I find earlier discussions on the topic of feed back on behalf of continuous development? *Where is info to be found on how design-communities may best originate and function on Internet? Thanks for a rapid response!<br/> --[[User:Demotech, design|Demotech, design]] 14:03, 16 April 2007 (PDT) Reinder/Demotech :Hi Reinder, :Great to hear from you. I hope you received the email from my students. Your comments and questions are excellent and extremely pertinent. As requested, I am reposting your comments to the [[Appropedia_talk:Village_pump|Village Pump]] for group discussion to follow. We are also considering starting a forum, so that it is easier for even more people to be involved. :Appropedia uses the [[Appropedia:Copyrights|GNU-FDL license]]. Here are our conversations on the topic of license - [[Appropedia_talk:Copyrights]]. Please feel free to add your comments there, where a more focused group can respond. :Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 18:51, 11 April 2007 (PDT) :''To sign your comments use the following code: <nowiki>--~~~~</nowiki>'' ::Lonny, hello! ::Thanks for help and hope more clearity will come. And yes, I received the mail conserning the [=NightReader=]. I'll come back to it soon. ::--[[User:Demotech, design|Demotech, design]] 14:03, 16 April 2007 (PDT) Reinder ==main page counter?== Lonny -- it looks like the main page counter has been stuck on ~58k for awhile -- is this correct? Is it counting? I tried reloading it and nothing changed - only one hit per ip? Cheers - Joshua ps - love the new chicken highlight :Hi Joshua, :If you mean 56k, it may look stuck because the counter stays in the cache during a normal refresh, but it will reload on a hard refresh. Use Shift-Refresh in Firefox and see if that works. If you mean 58k our numbers are different and we should discuss it further. :Glad you like the new chicken highlight. :PS you can sign your posts using 4 tildes (<nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>) --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 22:23, 19 May 2007 (PDT) ==Demotech contribution== Lonny, hi!<br/> Thanks for your feed back. I have to study it thoroughly. Specially as I am not yet fully used to the Appropedia set up. <br/> Whatever choice is made, it will be a tremendous lot of work to do all the porting to the right places. There seems to be a MediaWiki template that would well go together with the Research template. A friend of mine tries to find it.<br/> All together it seems best to follow fate: go slow, make mistakes and hopefully then find a better way!<br/> Reinder/Demotech :Great plan. I look forward to feedback. It will be a lot of work, but we have some techniques that make it easier. Here is a link to the entire [http://www.appropedia.org/Special:CategoryTree?target=topics&mode=categories&dotree=Show+Tree topic category structure] of Appropedia. -[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 02:25, 1 June 2007 (PDT) == Gender == I know very little how these kinds of sites work, and can't figure out how to make this suggestion otherwise: I'd like to see Gender as one of the categories under [http://www.appropedia.org/Category:Culture_and_community Culture and Community], if not its own listing under the main topics-areas listing. :Hi Jayne, :Thank you for your great suggestion. I responded on your [[User_talk:Jcravens|talk page]]. Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 22:10, 13 July 2007 (PDT) == stats for [[GEM_mosquito_control]] == Hi Lonny, [[User:Georgedappilly|Georgedappilly]] had [[User_talk:Chriswaterguy#George_7|a question]] about stats for [[GEM_mosquito_control]]: :By the way is it possible to get any details about those who visit the page. So far 714 visits are there! Cheers --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 03:10, 22 July 2007 (PDT) Actually I'd like to know how to access this for pages in general. Just noticed that [[Washing and drying clothes]] has had 1256 page views, which isn't bad, and I'd be interested to know where people have come from, so we can learn from it. I also just noticed that my user page is 10th most viewed on the stats page, no doubt because I use it in my signature on blogs and other sites. I'll have to put more effort into giving people links when they arrive there. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 05:50, 22 July 2007 (PDT) == Mandatos y Preguntas == ¿Porqué no tienes un foto nuevo en tu pagina? Mas importante, ¿¡¿Porqué no hay un spell check en Appropedia?!? {{Unsigned2|12:04, 29 July 2007|Waterfaery72}} :Gracias para tus dudas. Voy a hacer un nuevo foto para mi pagina muy pronto. Y para spell check, I suggest using the excellent web-browser Firefox. Here is a [http://portableapps.com/apps/internet/firefox_portable portable version] (will work on a thumb drive) and here is a [http://www.firefox.com install version], both will spell check inside of Appropedia. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 12:29, 29 July 2007 (PDT) Muy pronto, mis nalgas! == Kiva, Kivapedia and microfinance == Hey Lonny, I've been looking around trying to get a feel for how I could best contribute to Appropedia. I'm not an expert in any of the fields covered here, just a fan who likes to edit wikis. :-) In terms of Kiva, etc., I made a few simple edits to test out the connections. They work great. As far as articles go, there doesn't seem to be much here related to [[:category:microfinance|microfinance]]. You also seem to uses categories like that one as main articles. :-) So I was wondering, do you approve of "importing" Wikipedia articles with trans-wiki links? If that's okay, I would be willing to add "Kiva" and "microfinance" articles. Also, do you add articles about related wikis? If it's a yes on that, I also could start a little something about Kivapedia. As another "connections" idea, people in the Kiva Friends community often send Kiva gift certificates to folks, e.g., [http://www.kivafriends.org/index.php/topic,99.0.html Gift Certificate to Celebrities] to get the microlending ball rolling in a new area. If you know of a sizable group of folks here or elsewhere, ''and'' they would be willing to form a "lender group," I would be willing to bankroll the "first" loan (a whopping $25! ;-) ''if'' the group finds a way to match it. Then we could add "Appropedians for Kiva" (or whatever) to the [http://kivapedia.org/index.php/Main_Page/Groups List of Kiva Group Lenders]! ;-) Regards, [[User:RichardF|RichardF]] 14:25, 1 August 2007 (PDT) :Hi Richard - haven't responded to your comment on my talk page yet and I'm busy at Wikimania, so I'll take the liberty of make some quick comments here on Lonny's talk page. :*We use the {{tl|Wikipedia}} template to link to encyclopedic content, rather than duplicating it here. :*We would love more content on microfinance, and Kiva. My friend from the Grameen Foundation (Australia) has told me good things about Kiva. :*We did have a policy of using categories as topic articles - I think we agreed to change the policy a while ago but haven't carried it out yet. :*I see no problem adding stuff about Kivapedia - we like to interlink where appropriate, and in some cases have merged (e.g. with WikiGreen.org) where we were covering the same ground. It may be that the [[WikiNode]] is the best place to add that info, but that's not a hard and fast rule. :*Welcome to Appropedia! --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 21:12, 1 August 2007 (PDT) Okay, I really don't have any new content to add and I already added the basics to WikiNode. Let me know if you're interested in loaning as a group. [[User:RichardF|RichardF]] 05:01, 2 August 2007 (PDT) == Think I erased a photo of yours on accident == I was uploading a photo and called it Batchsolar.jpg Accidentally clicked ok when it asked me if I wanted to replace one with the same name. Don't know where the picture is linked to. Thought I'd let you know. Matt :Hi Matt, :Thanks for the heads up. You saved over a photo that you had uploaded, so no problem. If you click the image and go the image page (http://www.appropedia.org/Batchsolar.jpg) you can see the past versions and see what pages use the photo. :--[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 19:09, 6 August 2007 (PDT) :PS You can sign your name using 4 tildes <tt><nowiki>(~~~~)</nowiki></tt>. == Adobe Schmadobe == So I think I got the [[DIF Adobe Senior Center 2007|page]] to be a little more PC like you asked. Also put up the new floorplan. If that all looks good it's just about done, though we do have a couple building pictures to put up it's really difficult since Jaqui's gone and Hannah and I don't have a flash drive or a cord...anyway it's hard to get that stuff together and tomorrow's my last day in Parras, so let me know what you think so that I can fix things up before I take off. Thanks Lonny, hope you're feeling better...and I heard you ran into Richard in DF! [[User:La changa|La changa]] 14:48, 7 August 2007 (PDT) == Thanks for the template fix == ...and the welcome! I wasn't sure if you had a welcome template yet so I reckoned I'd make one - moved it to [[Template:Welcome]] and made it a bit more generic (see demo below). [[User:Mchua|Mchua]] 20:11, 18 August 2007 (PDT) : Actually, it's probably better to look at [[Template:Welcome]] - or pop '''<nowiki>{{subst:Welcome|yourusername}}</nowiki>''' into a new user's page to see it at work. But it should work for everyone now, so hopefully we'll see a welcome-wagon phenomenon. On a somewhat related note, Chriswaterguy and I was talking about the entry barrier for new contributors to wikis (especially folks working on [[appropriate technology]]) so I'm trying to delve into the code that [http://www.wikihow.com WikiHow] uses to make its interface more user-friendly in the hopes of generalizing it to an extension (it's currently custom hacks embedded into their php, so they tell me). [[User:Mchua|Mchua]] 20:15, 18 August 2007 (PDT) ::Great template! And there has been a resulting ramped up welcome wagon phenomenon. Thank you for the help on lowering the wiki-tech bar for new users. I look forward to making Appropedia easier to use for the many people that balk at our archaic code. Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 11:04, 26 August 2007 (PDT) == Welcome! == <div style="border:2px solid #fda; padding:8px; margin:1px; background-color:#fffdf9"> [[Image:Appropedia-logo.jpg|right]] Welcome to the Appropedia wiki. Please make yourself at home! If you need a general wiki-tutorial, [http://www.wikieducator.org/Wikieducator_tutorial Wikieducator has some excellent ones]. Check your [[Special:Preferences|preferences]] and be sure you verify your email address and turn on email notification if you'd like it -- you can find out when your talk page, or any page on your [[Special:Watchlist|watchlist]], is modified. You may want to upload a photo or information about yourself to your userpage (which is at http://appropedia.org/User:YourUsername). If you have a particular interest or project in mind, go ahead and start it! Feel free to leave me a note on my [[User talk:Mchua|talk page]] if you have further questions, need help finding your way around, have a cool idea for a project, or just want to chat. You can also call, text, or email me anytime; more contact information is on my [[User:Mchua|user page]]. Glad to have you here! [[User:Mchua|-Mchua]] </div> == Thank you... == Hey Lonnie... thanks for the formatting tips- was definately needed and certainly appreciated. Thanks and have a beautiful day... -a. :Glad to help. Please let me know if you have any questions. Thank you --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 16:25, 16 September 2007 (PDT) == News from Demotech, at last... == Lonny, hello!<br> I found new web master who has a pretty good idea how to approach the transfer of info from Demotech to Appropedia. As ideas are now, this guy Robert, will make a script to transfer of the Demotech content just and only the 'Why" and "How" of the first page of each design page also with the pictures that belong to this info. So this is just to give visitors at Appropedia a taste of what is could be, then to click through to the Demotech site. <br> The big idea is that I want to be able to steer and animate further development of the design ideas presented by Demotech. I can't have that at Appropedia, so I want to have a place that I can manage myself. I do not yet know how I can work this out with my webmaster Robert, it should be some content managment system close to that of Appropedia. Anyway I want to make sure further linking up to Appropedia remains easy at the very moment that's Appropriate!<br> Soon you will hear more!<br> Greetings, Reinder :Hi Reinder, :Great to hear from you. Please let us know if there is anything we can do to help the movement. Keep up your great work. Look forward to hearing from you soon. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 18:10, 16 September 2007 (PDT) Hi Lonny - the banner at the bottom of [[GEM mosquito control]] gives me more credit than I deserve or want, just because I created the page (with a few lines). Can we do anything about this? --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 06:17, 28 September 2007 (PDT) ==Contributor notice== Hi Lonny - the banner at the bottom of [[GEM mosquito control]] ("<tt>This page was last modified 21:34, 21 July 2007 by E.M.George. Based on work by Chris Watkins and Anonymous user(s) of Appropedia.</tt>") gives me more credit than I deserve or want, just because I created the page (with a few lines). Can we do anything about this? --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 06:19, 28 September 2007 (PDT) :I am sure that there is someway to do this in the database, but I think the best fix right now is probably a work around: :We have E.M.George create a new page, maybe [[GEM mosquito control system]], then copy the content there and make the old page forward to this new page. :Alternatively, we copy the content, delete the page, have E.M.George create the page again and the paste the content back into the page. I think that this will hide the history even further, but both ways should return the banner to its correct crediting state. :What do you think? :--[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 07:50, 28 September 2007 (PDT) ::Good plan. I would normally be concerned to preserve history, but in this case it's basically George, with very little by me. A couple of minor edits by an anon or two, who may be the same as George. ::We can keep the same name for the new page, simply by having George move the old page, and create the new page on top of the redirect. We can then delete the moved old page (noting that the history is accessible to admins through the deletion log, if desired). Does that make sense? --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 10:10, 1 October 2007 (PDT) :::Sounds good, when should we do this? --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 11:07, 13 October 2007 (PDT) ::::I haven't been watching changes very well lately - with the wiki being so active, I think it's best to reply on my talk page from now on. ::::After checking [[Appropedia submission for BFI prize]], I realized that my analysis of the problem was wrong - who created the page has no impact. Each person is mentioned only once, even if they are both the creator and the most recent editor. I made a small edit on the GEM page, and now the names are reversed - "This page was last modified... by Appropedia user Chriswaterguy. Based on work by E.M.George and Anonymous user(s) of Appropedia." Perhaps the "last modified by" is not a desirable feature of the notice - this is just one bit of information without context, and more complete info is readily available anyway, by clicking history. If a simpler banner is available, I'd support using that (but no rush). --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 10:32, 28 October 2007 (PDT) == Glad to be here. == Lonny, Appropedia is great. I've wanted to do this project since 1987 when I was a graduate student in anthropology studying economic development. Appropriate technology was all the buzz then, but ideas didn't move much. I hope that is all changing now. I've registered with appropedia and hope I can contribute. Back then I wanted a central facility in which people could create and disseminate interactive records of development ideas: projects, appropriate technologies, managerial techniques, etc. The facility would have the ideas, how they worked on the ground immediately and over time, observations by planners and locals, spin offs, lessons learned, etc. Then the whole lot would be available to anyone. Of course, back then this was impossible. Now you have it. A colleague of mine and I are particularly interested in dispersal of small scale development ideas into areas of low computer concentration: PNG for example. I've spoken with one of the old development professors there and worked up some ideas. Since 1987, I have spent 5 years in social work, earned a Ph.D. in economics, and advanced as an academic in Australia concentrating on other fields. But I am eager now to return to my old love of economic development. How can my ideas fit in to appropedia? Do you know of people currently working on getting appropedia information into areas with few computers? Cheers, Chris Geller :Hi Chris, :Thank you for your encouraging feedback. Your ideas fit perfectly into Appropedia. The administrator most connected with getting Appropedia information into areas with few computers is [[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]]. :I think that we may be served by having this conversation over email. Although it does lack the transparency of the wiki, we have a few other colleagues, with interest in this area, that reply more via email. Please email me at {{Email|Lonny|Appropedia|org}} to further this exciting conversation. You may be interested in the following pages: [[Low cost computer guide]], [[User:Chriswaterguy/OLPC_frontpage]], [[Collaboration to produce offline content]]. These pages are different from but related to what you are discussing. :Welcome to Appropedia and welcome back to economic development, we look forward to talking and hopefully working with you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 11:04, 13 October 2007 (PDT) == Slashes in page names? == Hi Lonny, Was just [[User_talk:Steve.mccrosky#Lemons.2C_limes_.26_redirects|leaving a note]] for Steve about [[Lemon douches for HIV prevention]], when I came up with this issue: I thought about a rename to "Lemon and lime douches..." but that sounds like a mixture of the two is required; "Lemon or lime douches..." sounds like a comparison is being made. "Lemon/lime douches..." is probably best, but it looks like a subpage. Looking like a subpage is possibly not a problem, but I wanted to get your views. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 00:23, 24 October 2007 (PDT) :Hi Chris, :My take is that we should reserve slashes for subpages. How about a dash, e.g. [[Lemon-lime douches]]? :Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:49, 24 October 2007 (PDT) ::Lemon-lime still sounds like a cocktail to me :). Will think on it. --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 13:18, 25 October 2007 (PDT) :::One issue with the title "Lemon/lime douches" is that (I think) there will be a breadcrumb trail back to the page "Lemon" linked at the top of the page. I think that "Lemon and lime douches", while ambiguous, is okay. If lemon and lime didn't go together so well, in cocktails :), I do not think it would be as misleading. Think "Orange and apple flavored beverages" this allows for mixed or separate beverages, whereas "Orange and apple flavored beverage" must be mixed (and gross). --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 23:47, 25 October 2007 (PDT) ==Tildes...== Re your sig at [[Talk:Lemon douches for HIV prevention]]... i think there was a typo - fives tildes (<nowiki>~~~~~</nowiki>) make a date with no username (13:18, 25 October 2007 (PDT)). -[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]]</small> 13:18, 25 October 2007 (PDT) :Thanks. I fixed it. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 11:13, 28 October 2007 (PDT) == hi == Thanks for your words in my talk page. I'd like to help you translating the information you have about photovoltaic systems. I want to learn building my own small PV system and i think that is a very good way to learn the theory. I see you are also interested on PV. In case that I don't understand something, may I ask you questions about PV design and calculations?, :)--[[User:Javier Carro|Javier Carro]] 05:17, 18 November 2007 (PST) :Hi Javier, :Please feel free to ask me questions. I have supervised, designed and built quite a few solar applications (plus I teach it at University). One of the questions I will probably not be able to help much with, is rules and rebates in your area. Where are you located? I have had a hand (sometimes very small) in the majority of the photovoltaic projects (including these [[UTC_photovoltaic_learning_station#En_Espa.C3.B1ol|Spanish translations]]) here on Appropedia, and [[User:J.M.Pearce|Joshua]] did the quite excellent [[Solar Photovoltaic Open Lectures]] - he may be amenable to questions. :I look forward to watching the photovoltaic page be translated. The content on that page is too much for a category page, so we were planning on renaming it something like Photovoltaic basics (we are still working on the policy). Please feel free to name your page how ever you would like, and we will make sure it fits. :Thank you for your fantastic work, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 09:57, 18 November 2007 (PST) :: :) Sorry, I didn't notice you answered me back here. Thanks a lot. As soon as I have time I will be looking to all this material. You also can ask me for translating something you consider of high relevance. By the way, at the moment I live in Zürich. I was thinking of using [http://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvgis/apps/pvest.php?en=&europe= this website] to calculate the inclination and orientation of the modules. ::I will ask you my first question: do you know some schematics to make your own DC-DC 12 to 19 volts converter? I want to build one but until now I didn't find anyone in internet. --[[User:Javier Carro|Javier Carro]] 04:44, 24 November 2007 (PST) ::: Yo respondí en tu [[User_talk:Javier Carro|página]]. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 19:24, 24 November 2007 (PST) == Thanks! == Hey Lonny! Thanks for the nice note. I appreciate the additions you made to the article, as well as the kind words about my story. I'm hoping to make more contributions soon, since I've been reading a whole damn lot about soil health... Best, --[[User:Krystle|Krystle]] 20:58, 23 November 2007 (PST) ==Hello== I am responding to the message you left me. I have been to Arcata a couple of times traveling with my [http://www.couchsurfing.com/people/shaimei sweetie] who was a student at HSU and in [[GreenWheels]]. She and I met at [[Lost Valley Educational Center]] about a year and a half ago.. I dont believe we have met IRL. I appreciate you reading my [[LiveJournal]]. Maybe we will meet in the future. I look forward to that day. My sweetie has a sister and her dad that live still in Arcata so we will be there again, Im sure. Peace, [[User:Rkmlai|Rkmlai]] 13:31, 5 December 2007 (PST) == MODELPEDIA == Dear Lonny: Would you please take a look at http://www.wfs.org/innovate.htm? It's about an idea for a global data base of MODELS that could help us transform the world in record time. There is an obvious relationship to Appropedia, which I mention in the article. I'd love to have someone pick up my idea for implementation. It's being called "world changing," a very worthwhile idea that deserves implementing (Global Mind-Shift) and something that MUST be implemented(by Reinvenintingmoney.com and blog) Do you think there is any chance that this idea could be an expansion for your organization? Thanks for your attention. Alice Holstein Mack, Ed.D. :Hello Alice, :Thank you for your note. I love your idea, and after reading your idea at WFS I feel like Appropedia is a great fit. Appropedia does seek to house models and best practices. I think that you will find many of them listed under [[Organizations]], such as [[Potawot]]. Your proposals definitely brings awareness to how we present ourselves, it seems that we appear to be only physical artifact focused, which is not the case. In addition, it makes me realize that we should probably start a category for Models. We had discussed having some kind of expert ranking of models, but we have not implemented any tool or process like that yet. Let's continue discussions about how we could better serve models that make the world a better place? Please feel free to email me at {{email|lonny|appropedia|org}}. I will post this response at wfs as well. :Thank you,--[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 13:58, 23 January 2008 (PST) ==Porting== Thanks Lonny. I'll just finish up the pdf files I'm already working on and then I'll move on to other documents as Chris suggested. --[[User:Fatima|Fatima]] 12:40, 29 January 2008 (PST) :Thank you. Keep up the great work. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 12:58, 29 January 2008 (PST) Thanks Lonny! It looks good. --[[User:Fatima|Fatima]] 20:46, 29 January 2008 (PST) == Scientific method on Appropedia? == Hi Lonny. I'm new here. First of all, thanks for this great project! <br> A question: I've been editing Wikipedia for a while, and there's a continuing discussion (aka war) there on the extent to which content needs to be governed by the scientific method and mainstream science, vs accepting "alternative science", "traditional wisdom", etc. <br> I'm especially concerned about this because of the likelihood of people furnishing harmful misinformation - it's bad enough when people say that you can build a 5 mw cold fusion generator out of paper clips and twine, but when people start posting that chicken soup cures AIDS or the like, I worry about the possibility of serious harm. <br> '''Can you please give me some idea what the policy/guideline/"stance" of Appropedia is on this issue?''' <br> - I see that [[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] wrote at [[Appropedia:Neutral point of view]]: "Appropedia also places a strong emphasis on scientific fact and [[a:rigor|Rigor]]," so I'm also going to ask him about this. Thanks -- [[User:Writtenonsand|Writtenonsand]] 06:27, 15 February 2008 (PST) == [[Drought Myth]]: We definitely have copyleft? == Hi Lonny. I just went through and wikified [[Drought Myth]], but now looking at it I'm not 100% sure that we were formally given copyleft to it. It says "'''Source:''' Reprinted and shared freely by the copyright holder at http://selfmadefarmer.wordpress.com/", and was apparently originally posted to Appropedia by [[User:Krystle]], who is "apparently" the owner of selfmadefarmer.wordpress.com . We're sure that this was intended to be placed under the GFDL by the owner? selfmadefarmer.wordpress.com doesn't seem to have any copyright/licensing info. I'm probably being a little paranoid about this, but my experience with copyright, attribution, and editing articles on wikis suggests that that's often a good idea. -- [[User:Writtenonsand|Writtenonsand]] 07:27, 19 February 2008 (PST) ::Here's another: [[Methane]]: "Portions (cc) [http://www.aum.ca/seeds/ S.E.E.D.S.] under [http://creativecommons.org/ Creative Commons]". ::What's "cc"? I can't find any relevant definition. "Creative Commons"? If "copyright" or some non-GFDL license, then this content can't appear on Appropedia, right? Is Creative Commons 100% compatible with GFDL? (Again, only asking because of the blood I've seen these issues shed in the past.) -- [[User:Writtenonsand|Writtenonsand]] 07:48, 19 February 2008 (PST) :::Hi Writtenonsand, :::[[User:Krystle|Krystle]] is the creator of [[Drought Myth]] and intended to release it GFDL (by my understanding). [[Methane]] is another story. There is a strong chance (again, by my understanding) that GFDL and CC will merge enough that Wikipedia can switch to CC. If that does not happen soon, we will probably start dual licensing content (images can already be CC). Until then, we should probably remove/rewrite the content under Methane. Thank you for your vigilance, it is probably a good idea. And thank you even more for your great impact here at Appropedia so far. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 12:03, 19 February 2008 (PST) ::::Thanks again to you for all your help. -- [[User:Writtenonsand|Writtenonsand]] 18:53, 19 February 2008 (PST) == editing umbrella solar cooking page == hi lonny<br /> i just worked on my page for a little while, editing some of your suggestions. thank you for those! i was wondering if you want me to try to imput a table for the budget, or if there is a way to copy the one i turned in to you via a word document. also wanted to let you know that a better timeline is coming soon. and i wanted to send you a message via appropedia to try it out. thanks!<br /> [[User:Meganhelms|Meganhelms]] 11:43, 10 March 2008 (PDT) == Community discussion template == {{Working in public}} == WAPI == Hi Lonnie, Bob Metcalf started teaching part time last year in the microbiology dept at Sac State in order to have more time to work on his solar water testing and pasteurization projects in Kenya. You can reach him at {{email|bobmetcalfcsus|yahoo|com}}. He is in Sacramento for the moment due to the troubles in Kenya. Regards, Pat McArdle Arlington, Va :Hi Pat, :Thank you. I think I will buy a couple prefab ones (sounds much easier) and also look into getting some of the wax, as we may want to build it straight into a solar pasteurizer. Thank you, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:47, 18 March 2008 (PDT) == fixing article sections == Hi Lonny, I was wondering if you could help with a problem that one of my students is having. She started translating an article on a waterless toilet, but instead of clicking on the "edit" tab at the top of the page, she clicked on "edit" for each section. Thus, each section of the English article appears on the "Artikel auf deutsch" page as a separate article. If you could help us figure out how to merge all the sections into one article, that would be great. The student's username is Veritas19. Thanks! Nell ter Horst :Hi Nell, :It is all fixed now. See [[Weniger Wasser Toilette]] for the compiled version and [[Waterless Toilet]] for the cleaned up English version. I just copied each section that the student created and pasted it into the full [[Weniger Wasser Toilette]] document. We should talk about how appropedia could help prevent this from happening in the future... maybe screencast tutorials are in order. We have really enjoyed watching the Deutsch content grow. Please feel free to contact me via email to discuss any of this ({{email|lonny|appropedia|org}}). Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 03:14, 20 March 2008 (PDT) == Extensions to Watch == *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Review *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:STSGMassMailer <- for sure *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:SelectCategoryTagCloud *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Semantic_MediaWiki <- it is finally time *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Send2Friend *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:Social_Bookmarking <-augment addthis.com *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/Extension:SocialRewarding == thanks for your work on the front page == I just wanted to say good job, I like the additions. david.Reber (too lazy to log in :-) I should also mention that at at 11:30 california time, Appropedia is quite slow :Hi David, :Thanks for the kudos on the front page. I am glad you like the changes. We have many more to come, but the live content is a good start. The site is randomly slow... we are currently working on that. I really appreciate the update, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:44, 3 April 2008 (PDT) ::I love it, and blogged on it: [http://chriswaterguy.livejournal.com/17338.html Keeping the team informed]. (The blog is now on Planet Wikimedia.) ::What do you think of an announcements box for the front page - a smaller slimmer version of [[#Community_discussion_template|Community discussion template]]? --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] <small>([[User talk:Chriswaterguy|talk]])</small> 02:29, 10 April 2008 (PDT) :::Good idea. Here are some questions: :::*Are you thinking that it would replace the Announcements spot currently on the front page? :::*Would readers be able to scroll through past announcements? :::*Would only admins be able to edit the page the announcements feed from? :::*Are there any potential problems with the code that implements the scroll box, e.g. for visitors on old/slow connections? :::::Yes, yes, yes (but we'll have a clear place for suggestions), and no idea (I'll do a box up and get some testing done - incl asking my friends in Indo to try it out on their connection.). --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] 18:00, 11 April 2008 (PDT) :::Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 13:24, 10 April 2008 (PDT) == With a little help from my friends ... == Lonny, hello! Back from field work in Guatemala with the wish to report progress and experiences I encounter a few problems. Problem 1 is access to my account. It does not listen to what I remember to be its user name and password. Can you help me out? The other problem is that of interest at Appropedia to upload or port the first four fields of Demotech's mySQL database, being title, short summary (2 lines), the 'Why' of the item (6 lines), the 'How' of the item (6 lines), 2 images, both in size 250 x 250 px and 500 x 500 px. plus the link to the corresponding 80 pages of http://www.demotech.org . If Appropedia likes the idea, I hope it can be done automated. Soon Demotech's website will be restructured in a MediaWiki compatible format. My webmaster tells me such a transfer is then possible. Is it? And who should do it? Demotech (no expertise, little capacity) or people from Appropedia? In July I expect to be back at Demotech's project location in Guatemala, lake Atitlan. That is not too far from your site in Mexico. Could there anything be coordinated? Students working with us in Guatemala? Demotech research done at the Mexico site? Taking part in Demotech's campaign for hyping the Hy2U hand washing device http://www.hy2U.org ? Kind regards, Reinder van Tijen, Demotech, design for self-reliance :Hi Reinder, :Great to hear from you. I am glad to hear Guatemala went well. One of our board members, [[User:Claine1|Cat]] is there now. :I think that we can find some Appropedia people to work on the porting, once it is in a mediawiki compatible format. As far as deeper collaboration, quite a few sites/organizations have moved their project pages off their own site and onto Appropedia. This allows for more continuity in project feedback/changes, less dilution of the pool of editors, less search engine demotion for duplicate content, more exposure for Demotech and Appropedia, and allows you to focus more on the projects themselves then on combating spam, technical issues, etc. Demotech would host the descriptions and maybe the rankings, and then link to Appropedia for editable details. Appropedia would link back to Demotech from each of the pages. Let me know what you think? We are very open to lots of ideas and look forward to our continued partnership. :I love the idea of us doing something together in July. Unfortunately my site is in Northern Mexico, quite far from Guatemala... but maybe there is some way to arrange it. I also think that many of my students, including here in the US, would love working on the Hy2U hand washing device. Let's talk more about this. :Your username is [[User:Demotech, design|Demotech, design]]. I asked Appropedia to email you a password (from the login page). Let me know if it does not work. :Welcome back! I look forward to hearing more about Guatemala. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 19:25, 10 April 2008 (PDT) == Codes == This page is a link from another page. Can I change the page tittle without having to change anything from the main page( the one codes is a link from it). How can I change the name? I uploaded images in [[codes]], how can I arrange the images and put them next to in what products they are used. Thanks--[[User:Doaa|Doaa]] 12:06, 11 April 2008 (PDT) :Hi Doaa, :To move the page click the move tab at the top of the page and enter the new name. I.e. click the '''move''' tab at the top of [[Codes]], then enter [[Plastic codes]] (or something like that) in the ''To new title:'' box. For ''Reason:'' enter "more specific name". Then everything should work. To make it even cleaner, replace the link to [[Codes]] at [[How is plastic recycled]], with a link to the new page name. :I can think of two good ways to do what you want. One is with a [[Help:Images#Galleries|gallery]] tag, the other is with [[Help:Tables|tables]]. I made examples of these on the [[Codes]] page. :Please let me know if you have more questions. Keep up the great work. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 17:44, 11 April 2008 (PDT) Hi, Thank you. It worked well. == Draft front page? == Do we still have this? I searched for /http://www.appropedia.org/Special:Search?search=welcome&go=Go welcome] but found nothing - not even [[Welcome to Appropedia]]! Puzzled... --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] 18:03, 11 April 2008 (PDT) :Hi Chris, :See [[Main Page tests]]. Blanked for search engine optimization reasons, but feel free to use to develop new additions to the front page. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 18:10, 11 April 2008 (PDT) == Appropedia Action Groups == Hello Lonny! Some time ago, you left a comment on my talk page saying that you had connections to potential development projects. I am trying to compile a list of potential projects now as part of [[Appropedia Action Groups]] and was wondering if any of your connections would make good potential projects to add. --[[User:David.reber|David.reber]] 17:45, 12 April 2008 (PDT) :Hi David, :I think that [[AIDG]] and [[Full Belly Project]] might be a good ones to start with. Thank you for your exciting work on the [[AAG]]s. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 13:01, 20 April 2008 (PDT) ==Never ends== No problem. It seems this stuff never ends. {{unsigned2|00:17, 18 April 2008 |Jthiller}} == Images Question == Lonny, I'm curious whether you want to keep higher res images or the lower res ones. [[:Image:Arcata-7074_r.jpg|Low Res]] or [[:Image:Arcata-7074.jpg|High Res]] Multiple pages use the lower resolution image, but I could switch them over. [[User:Jthiller|-- Joey]] 13:33, 19 April 2008 (PDT) :Hi Joey, :I would rather keep the lower res image, as that resolution captures all the important details. Thank you for your awesome work. BTW you can use 4 tildes (<nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>) to automatically sign your messages... maybe you already figured that out. Thanks, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 12:26, 20 April 2008 (PDT) == re-rights and permission for conent == Dear Lonny, The reason I put the bird descriptions in quotes is because I didn’t know if I needed to cite something that is altered in my own words. All of the descriptions are in my own words to the best of my ability, but it is very hard to rewrite a scientific description. So what do you think I should do, should I keep the quotes because I got the descriptions from a book and reworded it , or remove the quotes because it is in my own words? Thanks for you help, LOGAN PORRAZZO == Thanks == I wanted to say thanks for the help wikifying the [[:Category:International_volunteer_opportunities| projects]] at one point you told me that you had connections to available, and I encourage you to add them if it is appropriate. --[[User:David.reber|David.reber]] 05:57, 23 April 2008 (PDT) == Looking for SEO help == Hello Lonny, You were referred to me by my high school classmate Al Funk as an incredible resource for SEO strategy and implementation. If you have time to take on a new project, please contact me. 310.399.2601 415.871.5747 (cell) abel.henry@goodlife.com Thanks Abel == Postgraduate ponderings == Hello Lonny, I will be finishing my BS in Environmental Engineering in 12 months and I am wondering what I should be doing after that. I want to gain knowledge in water and sanitation as is appropriate for applications in developing countries. Are there any postgraduate programs that you recommend? Are there companies that I should be applying to (either specific firms or categories of firms)? NGO's? Governmental agencies? Thanks for your advice, --[[User:David.reber|David.reber]] 12:28, 8 May 2008 (PDT) :Hi David, Responded on your talk page. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 09:25, 9 May 2008 (PDT) == le système Jean Pain == Hi Lonny, thx for your message, and congratulations for this site. It's just what I was dreaming of. Alas, my skills in computers are quite limited. I'd like someone to "wikify" a few things in SJP : linking words like "méthane" to the related article in wikipedia, add a pic of a mound... I don't know neither how to link the french article to the english one I'll write one of these days (like in wp, the language bar on the left). If you know bilingual french/english persons, they could help me in correcting my english. Is there a space I could upload (dxf) files for people to use in their own designs or as-is ? I'm working on the plans of a yurt-wagon you can trail, that unfolds like a book to form the floor, with felt-and-cloth roof. I'd like to share this idea with people involved in "lightweight living" and get some engineering advice. Have a nice day. [[User:Ascanio|Ascanio]] 07:31, 20 May 2008 (PDT) :Hi Ascanio, :I made some changes to [[Le système Jean Pain]] and [[Jean Pain system]]. Currently our way of working with various languages is the use of the {{Tl:Lang}} bar I added to those pages. I look forward to seeing images and data describing how the system works. As for uploading dxf - try archive.org. If that does not work for you, let's have a wider conversation here about hosting that filetype on Appropedia. :Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 05:26, 21 May 2008 (PDT) == Ekopedia and others... == I arrive and actually I do like most of the people create a new subject without being sure that there are none already talking about this... I am part of Ekopedia. It is a participative encyclopedie about alternative technique... It start in French but now it develops in many others languages... Check [http://ekopedia.org Ekopedia] We earlier tryed to have a collaboration with Tiptheplanet... It did not work out... Pity so much dubble information... Check [http://www.tiptheplanet.com TipThePlanet] On their Website I now discover Appropedia seems to be the same also... Check [http://www.appropedia.org Appropedia] I have to had this student initiative... Check [http://www.demotech.org Demotech] So I feel a little bit sad to see so much person motivated but not working together... If you feel like talking about and trying to create synergie... mail me at olivier(a)kaospilots(dot)nl Thank you :Hello Olivier, :We are very excited about possible partnerships and agree we should be consolidating efforts instead of duplicating. I have responded via email. Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 18:22, 25 May 2008 (PDT) ==Summit Green== Lonny, My name is Anne Marie Treger. Our friend Doug Cohen suggested I contact you. I am developing something for everyday consumers of the supermarkets. I am a homespun climate change activist (inspired by my kids) who believes all jobs should be green collar jobs! I am working on creating large scale social change through mom's shopping the supermarket with choices that have a positive impact on the planet. Long story short... Doug thinks we should talk. Please reach out. amtreger@mac.com or 908 577 7352 Thanks and be well, Anne Marie www.summitgreen.org :Hi Anne, :I just emailed you and am looking forward to our conversation. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 05:51, 18 June 2008 (PDT) == wanna dance? == Hey Lonny I study sociology in Germany and i´m currently writing my thesis about the potentiality of internet use, especially collaborative networks like this, in international development. I was thinking about analyzing appropedia to find out if it´s appropriate for modern "development aid". What do you think? Unfortunately the mission page is currently (or let´s say since weeks) in progress so I don´t know if you are just collecting technology which could also be used in international development or if appropedia really feels like being a top address for people actually working in d.a. Looking forward zirewi[at]rocketmail[dot]com == Potential Projects at CCAT == Hey Lonny, you are on top of it! We're pretty excited about what we can accomplish this next semester, especially with the grey water marsh. If you are in Humboldt County, we'd like to talk to you about it! Hope you're enjoying summer time Jess :Thanks. See my response [[User_talk:Burnjessh#Response_from_User_talk:Lonny.23Potential_Projects_at_CCAT|here]]. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 21:29, 14 July 2008 (PDT) == Headsup on Portal: Sustainability == Hey, Lonny: I am not sure if this is the best way, and I am aware all changes are visible under "Recent Changes", but I wanted to give you a direct headsup on the above. I added a paragraph on the definition of sustainability, but I also am aware I push the 'tone' envelope, so please give it a read and provide any comments. Thanks! [[User:SustainableDavid|SustainableDavid]] 10:25, 10 August 2008 (PDT) P.S. How do I adjust the Time Zone for the auto closing? I am in CDT and I see PDT. I did adjust the offset from UTC, but the Time Zone remains. :Hi David, :Great work. I think that you did a very good job with the tone at [[Portal:Sustainability]] and an excellent job on the edits at [[Solar hot water]]. It is great to have you as a part of Appropedia. :As you are getting a hang of the ropes, you may notice that we are focused on practical solutions and try to defer most of our purely encyclopedic content to wikipedia. We also defer most of our proselytizing on why change is needed to other sites and focus here on how to actually change the world. Therefore I am really excited to start learning about your house. Maybe sometime you could start [[South Texas sustainable home PV system]], [[South Texas sustainable home greywater system]], etc. or the such. If you are interested, don't fret about the style or formatting people will come along and help. :Either way, thank you for your great input so far. Your vision has definitely already started helping. :Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 15:41, 10 August 2008 (PDT) ::Hi David - Thanks again. Prompted by your work, I did some fairly heavy editing on [[Portal:Sustainability]], trimming both my words and yours to keep it succinct and keep the navigation stuff in view, close to the top. I tried to keep the key ideas in, and I put some into a footnote. But feel free to reedit if you feel I lost any important points. If we want much more detail, that could go into a mainspace page instead (i.e. a normal page, not "Portal:XYZ"). ::(I did write a reply last night but I seem to have lost it). --[[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] 12:56, 11 August 2008 (PDT) == Another Heads Up, this time on Solar Hot Water == Hey, Lonny: First, thanks for the comment and advice on the previous edit. I added text on System Types in Solar Hot Water which may be too 'encyclopedic' or just plain wordy, but maybe valid explanatory detail. The last paragraph could easily be placed in the "Appropriate Technology" section above it, but I did not see that until I was finished. Soon I will add some photos that will illustrate the open-loop system (the one I installed 10 years ago on my own water heater and roof). Now I gotta go out and squash some caterpillars getting on my spaghetti squash! Is that why they call it 'squash'? [[User:SustainableDavid|SustainableDavid]] 16:45, 10 August 2008 (PDT) :Hey David, :Great work again. We are still getting the hang of where the line of encyclopedic content is... of course some is needed to support the solutions proposed. "Mentions in movies" is definitely for wikipedia and not appropedia, "history" is often for wikipedia and not appropedia, the content you added seemed very appropriate for appropedia. In addition, you may want to see [[Solar hot water - system types]]. I wouldn't be surprised if it had many errors and I look forward to seeing your touch on it. You may want to link it from the [[Solar hot water]] page as well (it is already under the category). :Squash in the sense of crush is from French, where as Squash in terms of the gourd is from Algonquian[http://www.etymonline.com/index.php?term=squash], but I bet there is some ancient connection we don't know about yet... although where I live it is much more slug hunting as opposed to caterpillar squashing. ;) :Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 03:12, 11 August 2008 (PDT) == detail on the rocket stove == Hi Lonny, RE: the rocket stove Did you build it? Can you pass on my question if not? I can not tell from the pictures and dialog exactly how the exhaust gets from the block chamber to the external exhaust pipe. The hole in the top appears to be the same diameter as the skirt. I assume it is the same diameter as the pot (no smoke out the top). I do not see any holes through the skirt. Maybe I am looking at this wrong and the skirt is larger in diameter allowing the heat to rise around the pot and spill into the outer chamber. A few dimensions would help greatly here. Is there any thought that the exhaust pipe being on one side causes the stove to operate in an "out of balance" fashion? I look forward to reading more of your site. Building some of the items and participating. I am also very interested in human powered devices, motorized bicycles, human powered pumps, etc. Jeff :Hi Jeff, :Check out the [http://www.appropedia.org/index.php?title=CCAT_rocket_stove&action=history history tab] (and the footer of the main article) for information on the creators of the article. In addition, one of the creators, Dan, has posted his contact information on the talk page - [[Talk:CCAT rocket stove]]. I hope that helps. Please feel free to post your question on that talk page, especially if you can not get a hold of Dan. Please also let us know how your work goes. We are excited to have you hear and look forward to being a part of your participation. :Enjoy, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 16:57, 8 September 2008 (PDT) :PS you can sign your comments with 4 ~s (i.e. <nowiki>~~~~</nowiki>) == email == Lonny, I just sent you a bunch of huge files to help fund appropedia - please let me know if you got them. Thanks --[[User:J.M.Pearce|Joshua]] 09:50, 13 September 2008 (PDT) :Got them. Exciting stuff. Will get back with it by tomorrow. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 14:28, 13 September 2008 (PDT) == MediaWiki dumps == Would it be possible for you to automate some form of complete dump from the wiki? This would help greatly in distributing this great resource offline - including CD's, personal readers (everything from PDA's to Nintendo DS), and community installations. Even an annual release would be greatly appreciated! See the [http://download.wikimedia.org/ dumps from wikimedia's projects] 1283 52975 2008-10-05T10:39:42Z Chriswaterguy 49 community {{Lang|[[Hilfe: Inhalt|Deutsch]] - [[Help:Contents|English]] - [[Help:Conceptos básicos|Español]] - [[Help:Guia de edição|Português]]}} {{TOCright}} ''See [[:Category:Appropedia help|Appropedia help]] for a list of all Help articles.'' '''Editing a wiki is easy!''' Just type it in like an email. If you want to do more, then read the page below for info on formatting. And you can always [http://www.appropedia.org/index.php?title=Appropedia_talk:Village_pump&action=edit&section=new drop us a line] and the community can help format it for you. ==Creating a new page== {{main|Help:Creating a page}} The quickest way to create a new page is to perform a search for the new title with the Go button. 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For instance if there are many individual articles on the topic of water, it might make sense to create a category for water. To Create a category called Water type <nowiki>http://appropedia.org/Category:Water</nowiki> into the address bar<br> To make a link to the Water category (a visible link, rather than adding the page to that category) type <nowiki>[[:Category:Water |]]</nowiki> . If you want the link to display with different text, type <nowiki>[[:Category:Water | "link text"]]</nowiki> where "link text" is the text that will be displayed as the link<br> To register a page in the Water category type <nowiki>[[Category:Water|{{PAGENAME}}]]</nowiki> where {{PAGENAME}} should not be changed ==More info== See [[Wikipedia:How to edit a page]] and [[Wikipedia:Help:Contents/Editing Wikipedia]] If you have a technical question which is not answered here, you may wish to check the [[Wikipedia:Help:Contents|help pages on Wikipedia]] (as Appropedia and Wikipedia use the same software); or please ask at the [[Appropedia talk:Technical questions|Technical questions]] page or the [[Appropedia_talk:Village_pump|Village pump]] - we'll be glad to help! ==External links== === Guides === *[[Wikipedia:Help:Contents|Help pages on Wikipedia]] *[[Wikipedia:Help:Tables|Table help from Wikipedia]] === Tutorials === * [[Wikieducator:Wikieducator tutorial]] [[Category:Appropedia help|{{PAGENAME}}]] 1284 1284 2006-01-14T17:43:06Z 64.91.71.16 #REDIRECT=[[Help:Contents]] 1285 6555 2006-10-18T08:42:48Z ATSysop 1 redirected to help:contents, which is better populated. Moved the stuff previously here to discussion for more work. #REDIRECT[[Help:Contents]] 1286 20946 2007-04-15T08:21:04Z Chriswaterguy 49 #redirect [[:Category:Appropedia policy]] #redirect [[:Category:Appropedia policy]] 1287 28632 2007-10-08T08:24:13Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/199.245.188.252|199.245.188.252]] ([[User_talk:199.245.188.252|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:CurtBbot|CurtBbot]] #redirect [[:Category:Projects]] 1288 1293 2006-04-05T07:51:25Z Lonny 2 1289 1294 2006-04-05T07:51:45Z Lonny 2 1290 53078 2008-10-06T08:16:48Z Lonny 2 [[Image:Solarmowerleft.jpg|thumb|500px|right|Solar Charged Lawnmower]] == The Basic Idea == An electric lawnmower that utilizes [[solar]] power as an [[energy]] source will address a number of issues that standard internal combustion engine mowers do not. An electric lawnmower with a solar charger will be easier to use. There is no messy dangerous gasoline to deal with. It will eliminate those pesky trips to the gas station for fill-ups. Just plug the mower into the charging station when not in use and it will be charged and ready for your next mow! Most importantly it eliminates the emissions of an internal combustion mower. The basic idea is to convert an older non-working gas mower into an electric powered mower by replacing the gas engine with an electric motor that runs from a 12 volt battery. This battery will be charged using [[photovoltaic]] panel (A.K.A. - solar panel). I chose to convert an old gas mower rather than just starting with an electric mower due to cost and so I could design the power output. I also planned on using as many used [[Supplies|materials]] as I can. This will help to save these materials from ending up in our already over filled [[landfills]]. == The Plan/Design == I would like to claim that I came up with this solar charged electric mower idea on my own but the truth is I came across an article about one in a "Home Power" magazine (Issue 107) awhile back and have wanted to build one ever since. When the opportunity arose to use it as a project in my [[Engr305|Engineering 305]] class at [[HSU|Humboldt State University]] I jumped at the chance. ===Motor and Battery Sizing=== [[image:SCLmotorclose.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Motor]] [[image:SCLbatteryclose.jpg|thumb|150|right|Battery]] To start with I needed to design a mower that would fit my needs. I have a yard that takes about forty-five minutes to mow so it was important to size the battery accordingly. To do this I had to find out what kind of amperage the motor would be pulling for the forty-five minutes it takes to mow the grass. This is dependent on the type of motor used. Motors are rated in HP (horse power) and I wanted around the same HP as a standard internal combustion mower. The newer gas powered lawnmowers are about 4 to 6 HP and the older mowers are around 3 HP. According to the article in "Home Power" magazine 1 HP of an electric motor is equivalent to about 4 HP of an internal combustion engine. I was hoping to purchase a 1 HP motor but after pricing them I decided I needed to go with the least expensive motor that would get the job done. This turned out to be a 12 VDC, 3/4 HP, Dayton electric motor. (See below for details on parts and cost.) The 3/4 HP Dayton motor is specified to pull 58A with a full load. I used this figure to help determine the size battery I needed. I knew I wanted a 12VDC battery, they are easy to find, use, and come in a variety of sizes. The next step was to figure out the amp-hours I needed to run this particular motor for 45 minutes. [[Amp-hours]] are a measurement of the length of time it takes to discharge a battery at a certain amperage. For example; a 35 amp-hour battery should give 35 amps for an hour before being discharged. I know I want to run my mower for 45 minutes but I'll just round it to an hour to be safe. Although the motor is rated for 58A, that amperage is with a full load and typically while mowing I will not be running a full load. While just spinning the blade (not cutting grass) the amps will only be about half of the full load or 30A. So a 40 Amp-hour battery should allow me to mow moderately tall grass for about 45 minutes to an hour. It just so happens that I had a 40 amp-hour deep-cycle battery from a past project. (See below for details on parts and cost). ===Solar charging station=== [[Image:SCLchargeStation.jpg|thumb|225px|right|Charging Station]] After the grass is mowed I'm going to need a way to charge the battery for the next mow. Luckily, my grass only needs to be cut once every week or two. This allows plenty of time to charge the battery with a solar panel. I had originally planned to build a structure that would house the entire mower then mount the solar panel on the roof. Due to time constrains, lack of yard space, and lack of good stationary solar access I decided to build a small portable solar charging station. This will allow me to easily store the mower in the garage while placing the charging station in direct sunlight. ===Solar Panel and Charge Controller Sizing=== [[Image:SCLcontroller.jpg|thumb|100px|left|Charge Controller]] I have an 11Watt solar panel from a past project that I am using to charge the battery. It is rated at 16.5 operating voltage (Volts) and .62 operating current (Amps) in full sun. (See link below for details on parts and cost) To figure out how long it takes to charge the battery I use this calculation I found in the owner's manual of a DieHard Battery Charger: (Amp Hour Rating * % of charge needed / Amps) * 1.25 = hours of charge time Say my battery is discharged down to 50%, according to my systems setup the calculation would look like this: (40 Amp-hour battery * .50 charge needed / .62 solar panels Amps) * 1.25 = 40 hours total charge time. I also have a 12V 4.5A charge controller from a past project. This is wired between the solar panel and the battery. The controller stops the battery from discharging through the solar panel when the sun is not out and the panel is not creating [[electricity]]. It also regulates the voltage to the battery. Varying voltage to the battery can significantly shorten the battery's life span. (See below for details on parts and cost). == Parts and Cost List == <center> {| class="wikitable" ! Quantity !! Materials !! Source !! Cost ($) !! Total ($) |- | 1 || used lawnmower || yard sale |align="right"| 5.00 |align="right"| 5.00 |- | 1 || electric motor (Dayton 3/4HP, 12VDC) part #: 6ML04 || Graingers |align="right"| 312.00 |align="right"| 312.00<ref name="cost">This total can be greatly reduced by purchasing a used/refurbished or otherwise cheaper motor. Motors of similar specs can be found around $60 bringing this final price to $447.</ref> |- | 1 || solar panel (UniSolar 11 Watt) || Affordable-solar.com |align="right"| 120.00 |align="right"| 120.00 |- | 1 || charge controller (Morningstar SunGuard 4.5A, 12V) || Affordable-solar.com |align="right"| 39.00 |align="right"| 39.00 |- | 1 || voltmeter || Kragen Auto Parts |align="right"| 22.00 |align="right"| 22.00 |- | 1 || ammeter || Kragen Auto Parts |align="right"| 16.00 |align="right"| 16.00 |- | 1 || battery (Sun Xtender 40 AH) || windsun.com |align="right"| 90.00 |align="right"| 90.00 |- | || misc. electrical (wire, etc.) || local electric store |align="right"| 25.00 |align="right"| 25.00 |- | || misc. hardware (nuts & bolts) || local hardware store |align="right"| 20.00 |align="right"| 20.00 |- | 1 || switch (70A) || Industrial Electric |align="right"| 50.00 |align="right"| 50.00 |- |colspan="4" align="right" | '''Total Cost''' |align="right"| 699.00<ref name="cost"/> |} </center> == Stripping the Old Mower == After searching various yard sales I found and bought this old lawnmower for $5.00. (You can't beat that price!) As you can see it needed a lot of work. I was hoping to remove the internal combust engine by loosening the bolts that attached it to the mower deck. No such luck. They where rusted to the deck so I spent a large amount of time cutting the deck with a rotary tool to allow the engine to be removed. I used some spray on paint remover to remove a majority of the red paint. Then I used a wire brush to remove all the rust. After that I sprayed the rust spots with a rust retardant to stop the rust from spreading. This mower was in pretty bad shape, if I took on this project again I would try to find a mower in better shape. It may cost a little more but that money could be easily recouped by the savings in time and effort. <center> <gallery> Image:SCLoldMowerTop.jpg|Old Mower Deck Image:SCLoldMowerRight.jpg|Old Mower Deck Image:SCLoldMowerDeck.jpg|Old Mower Deck Image:SCLdeckPatching.jpg|Stainless Steel Patches </gallery> </center> == Fabricating the Deck == After stripping the mower and removing the engine I was left with a mower deck with a huge hole in it. I went to a local scrap yard and found a couple of small sheets of stainless steel about 1/16" thick. I then cut the steel to the proper size to cover the hole in the deck. Before welding the new stainless steel deck to the mower I drilled five holes; one in the center to allow the shaft of the motor to sit under the deck and four more around the center hole to allow the motor to be mounted to the deck. It was important to make sure the center shaft hole is centered on the mower. If the shaft is not centered when the blade is mounted to the shaft it could rub against the sidewall of the mower. After the holes were properly measured and drilled I carefully welded the steel over the existing hole in the mower. There were still a few spots where rust had eaten through the mower so I cut some additional pieces of steel to weld over the smaller rust holes. These patches can be seen in the image on the lower left. The 1/16" stainless steel worked well for this application. It is thick enough to support the motor and fairly easy to work with when the proper tools are used. As mentioned in the stripping the old mower section, the whole process of fabricating a new deck could have been avoided by purchasing a mower in better condition. One that allows the engine to be removed without taking part of the deck with it. == Mounting the Motor == [[Image:SCLfreeMotor.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Dayton 3/4HP, 12VDC Motor]] When mounting the motor to the mower deck the most important thing was to make sure it was centered and properly secured. I made sure it was centered by measuring an equal distance from the sides of the motor to the outside diameter of the mower. I secured the motor to the deck with four 3/8" bolts with washers. Adding washers between the motor and the deck allowed me to raise different sides of the motor to level. I needed to place two washers on the front two bolts to bring the motor up to level. I struggled with the decision to the way I should mount the motor. Should I face the terminal studs toward the back of the mower to protect them and to allow easy access to the battery or toward the front to allow the battery mount to attach to the motor base? After trying the different variations I realized that the battery must be mounted to the motor base to provide the proper support to the battery. (See battery mounting above for more info.) This method of battery mounting is working out well. I have had no issues. == Mounting the Blade == [[Image:SCLbladeMount.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Detached Blade Mount]] Unfortunately, when removing the old blade from the old mower I was unable to salvage the piece that attached the engine shaft to the mower blade. This meant that it was necessary to fabricate my own blade mount. I found a piece of metal rod about 3/4" in diameter in the scrap pile in the HSU metals lab. I bored a hole into the rod at about 3/8" in diameter (the motor shaft diameter). This would allow the rod to slide over the motor shaft. Next the rod needed a key way milled to allow a key to be inserted. The key connects the rod to the shaft and keeps the rod from slipping while the shaft is rotating. Then I cut the rod to length and welded it to an 1/8" thick metal plate that the mower blade will be bolted to. After the blade mount was finished being fabricated I inserted it on to the shaft. Then to make sure the mount was supported vertically I drilled a small hole completely through the mount and shaft. This allowed me to insert a bolt as an added safety measure. When the blade mount was securely mounted I bolted the mower blade to it using two 3/8" nuts and bolts with washers. All in all the fabrication of the blade mount went well. The parts were free (except the nuts and bolts) so the only true cost was the labor and it seems to be doing its job well. The only thing I would change is the lengh of bolts I used. I used about a 1-1/2" bolt for both the blade and the blade mount. They really only need about a 1/2" bolt. <gallery> Image:SCLdrillingMount.jpg|Drilling the Mount Image:SCLmilling.jpg|Milling the Mount Image:SCLbottom_blade_mount.jpg|Blade Mount Image:SCLbottomBlade.jpg|Mower Blade Mounted </gallery> == Battery Mounting == Once the motor was mounted I needed to find a place for the battery to sit. As I mentioned in the mounting the motor section, the base of the motor was facing the rear of the mower and would provide a solid mounting surface for the battery mount. To get the proper weight distribution I wanted to mount the battery as close as I could to the back wheels. This would allow the handle bars to serve as a lever and allow the mower to easily pivot when on its back wheels. Using a piece of stainless steel I purchased from a local scrap yard I fabricated the battery mount. I started by placing the battery in the center of the square piece of stainless steel. Then I marked the outline of the battery on to the steel. Next I cut the corners to allow the sides that extend beyond the battery to be folded up. After folding up all four sides I welded them together for support. The battery fits tightly into the mount so no excess strapping is needed. I then added a small piece of steel to the front side of the battery mount at a ninety degree angle. This piece extended from the battery mount to the deck of the mower to help support the battery when bolted to the motor base (see bottom right image). The other end of the battery mount rests on the raised back of the mower. <center> <gallery> Image:SCLbatterymountfold.jpg|Folding stainless steel Image:SCLbatterymounthalf.jpg|Partially complete mount Image:SCLbatterymountfinish.jpg|Finished battery mount Image:SCLmockup.jpg|Placement of battery mount and motor </gallery> </center> == Electrical == [[image:SCLmowergauges.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Ammeter and Voltmeter]] The electrical was one of the more complicated parts of this project. I had originally thought it would be rather simple, just run some wires from the battery to the motor add a switch and that would take care of it. As I started to do so I realized it wasn't that simple. I needed to have gauges to measure the volts and amps of the battery, the wires needed to be correctly sized, and a switch for a 12V 60A system can't just be picked up at the local hardware store. Lets start with the wire sizing. Wires are sized by gauge, the smaller the gauge the larger the wire. The Dayton 3/4HP motor pulls 58A according to the spec sheet. It turns out that a #6 wire is rated to handle 75 amps so that's what I used to connect the motor to the battery through the amp meter and switch (see wire diagram below). I used a 16 AWG wire to connect the voltmeter to the battery and a 16 AWG medium duty extension cord to connect the battery to the charging station. According to the extension cord label it could handle up to 13 amps. This should be more than enough for the .63 amps the solar panel puts out. [[image:SCLMowerWireDiagramcopy.gif|Battery and motor schematic]] I found the gauges at a local car parts store. I wired the ammeter in series and the voltmeter in parallel. The ammeter helps to give me an idea as to the amount of amps I'm pulling when mowing the grass. This in turn gives me an idea as to how long the battery is going to last before needing a charge. The voltmeter tells me when I need to recharge the battery. According to the battery manufacturer the battery is fully charged when the voltage reads 12.7 V. When it reads 11.75 V the battery is down to 30% and needs recharging. I originally wanted to use a breaker for the on/off switch but after searching for awhile I noticed that a 60A 12V circuit breaker is not readily available. Luckily I found a switch that could handle 60A at a local industrial electric supplier. I also added a 100A fuse between the battery and motor. Solar charging station electrical: I also used 16 AWG for the connections between the solar panel and the charge controller. I put a 1.5A fuse between the solar panel and the charge controller as specified by the manufacture. [[image:SCLsolarChargerWireDiagram_copy.gif|Solar charging station schematic]] == Solar Charging Station == After the mower was assembled and ready to go I needed a way to charge it. A used a 11 Watt Uni-solar panel that plugs into the mower when not in use. This panel is made to charge a 12V battery at .62 amps in full sun. I screwed a couple 4' long 2x4s to three cross supports to serve as a mount for the panel (see picture at top of page "Charging Station"). This makes for a light portable sturdy structure. I needed something I could easily move to the best solar access. I also mounted a Morningstar SunGuard charge controller on to one of the cross supports. It is hidden behind the solar panel to protect it from the weather. (see picture at top of page "Charge Controller") Although this solar panel is able to charge the battery I would have liked to get a larger one (if I had the money). As stated on the Home Page it takes about 40 hours of direct sunlight to charge the battery from 50%. Here in Humboldt County direct sunlight is not always prevalent. In optimal conditions we may get 5 hours a day in the winter. This means it would take eight days to charge the battery from 50% to 100%. On the bright side, the grass can't be cut when it's raining and it is usually raining if it is not sunny in the Pacific Northwest. == Testing == Testing the mower proved to be more difficult than I had anticipated. Wouldn't you know it, the only time I have ever been excited about mowing the lawn and it rained for a week straight? I did manage to get some tests done in my garage and even mowed a little grass when the rain let up. ===Reserve Capacity Test=== I bought the Sun Xtender deep-cycle PVX-420T over two years ago and have never used it. The manufacturer recommends running this test if the battery has gone unused for over 6 months to ensure the battery is capable of providing the necessary capacity to perform properly. After the battery is fully charged (12.7V) you are supposed to discharge the battery at 25 Amps until the voltage reads 10.5V. Luckily the mower pulls 25 Amps when running (not cutting). So I turned it on and timed how long it took to go from 12.7V to 10.5V. This ended up taking well over an hour. The PVX-420T was rated to do this in 61 minutes. So the battery passed this test with flying colors. If it would have taken 49 minutes or less, the manufacture recommends replacing the battery. ===Fifteen Minute Mow Test=== I was anxious to get out and try the mower so during a break form the rain I did just that. The wet grass didn't provide ideal mowing conditions but I will take what I can get at this point. I measured the battery voltage to be 12.5 (about 90% capacity) prior to mowing. I had the mower deck set to the second to highest position and the grass was moderately long and wet. I watched the ammeter while mowing and it was pretty consistently pulling 45-60 amps. I mowed for about fifteen minutes (about 1/3 of my yard) and when I finished the battery voltage read 12.25 (about 60% capacity). Not bad considering the grass was wet. I figure that in ideal conditions (moderately long dry grass) the mower should pull between 40 and 50 amps. At that amperage the 40 amp-hour battery should last about an hour before becoming completely discharged. Completely discharging the battery is not good for it so I will only run the mower for 45 minutes which is about how long it takes to mow my lawn. This should leave the battery at about 11.75 (about 30% capacity). ===Testing the Charging Station=== Once again the rainy weather did not provide the ideal conditions for testing the solar panel charging station. Therefore, I had to use a battery charger to recharge the battery to a safe level. I used the 2 amp setting on the charger. This gives the battery 2 amps at a constant voltage in until it reaches about 80% (12.4V) capacity. It then starts to vary the voltage and this is not good for the battery. At this point I take the battery off the charger and plug it into the solar charging station. In a full winters day sun it raised the battery from 12.4V (80%) to 12.5V (90%) so I know its working. I plan on using the charging station at greater lengths when the weather allows me to do so. == Conclusion == Over all I really enjoyed completing this project. It was a lot of hard work but most things worth doing are. In retrospect there are only a few things I would change. First, I would find a mower that could be easily disassembled or at least able to be disassembled. This would save time and labor on the fabricating portion of this project. Next I would invest in a larger solar panel, at least 50 Watts this would allow the battery to be charged quicker and require less sun between mows. I would have also used a breaker rather then the switch I installed or mount a fuse between the battery and motor. This would help to make the system safer and protect the motor if the amperage rose to an unsafe level. Besides that the mower runs great and I'm looking forward to quiet pollution free mowing from here on out. If you have any questions feel free to e-mail me at createfreedumb at hotmail dot com == Notes == <references/> == Project Credits == [[Image:Solarmowerlefttall.jpg|200px|left|Solar Charged Lawnmower]] Jeremy James<br> Humboldt State University<br> Humboldt County, CA<br> createfreedumb at hotmail dot com [[Category:Engr305]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Photovoltaics]] [[Category:2005]] [[Category:Lawnmowers]] 1291 17415 2007-02-19T02:49:45Z CurtBbot 152 plural category name changes #REDIRECT [[:Category:Topics]] 1292 27874 2007-09-19T02:10:47Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/82.148.98.34|82.148.98.34]] ([[User_talk:82.148.98.34|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] {{Shortcut|[[A:TD]]}} {{TOCright}} '''This is now mostly outdated, and should be combined into more specific locations based upon the tasks.''' --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 22:21, 15 April 2007 (PDT) ==For Staff== ===Shortnames=== ''Done - November 06.'' *Try to implement short names: **http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Rewrite_rules **See test working at [http://www.buildcapacity.org/Testing_the_short_url_fix_%26_with_the_ampersand buildcapacity.org] (a test time-lagged copy of appropedia) ***So far only problem is titles with ampersands break at the & sign. ***Why do people caution against a short name that reads the directory your mediawiki is installed in. Why do most opt for a directory that does not exist, such as www.appropedia.org/wiki/, where wiki is not an actual folder? ::::The thought that comes up is that there might be some search order behavior that might actually find a hit if there is a real directory involved? --[[User:Curtbeckmann|Curtbeckmann]] 17:02, 29 September 2006 (PDT) ===Regular backup=== *Regular backup schedule and instructions [http://support.globat.com/sc/index.php/Databases_FAQ_-_Support#How_do_I_use_the_database_export_tool.3F] #Click Databases #Click phpMyAdmin #Click Export #Click appropedia #Select Save as file #Click Go *Look for new scheme based on new server allowing shell access. ====Backups Happening Nightly==== *The complete domain appropedia.org and an additional database backup is happening nightly. *However, at the moment nobody is transferring the backups off the server. **[[User:GoodSignal|GoodSignal]] 02:35, 10 January 2007 (PST) ===Copyrights=== *look into copyrights **Puting up other organizations photos may be a copyright violation, plus your photos will be much more applicable to your project. **http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Public_domain_resources **http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Boilerplate_request_for_permission ===Help Pages=== *add help for Math formulas. *Add to the help page links: **Foot notes ***http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Footnotes **Timelines ***http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:EasyTimeline_syntax **Notes on writing good captions ***http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Captions **Make sure to check your discussion tab (especially if it is blue). You can [[help:watch| watch] the discussion tab to be email notified of messages. *http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:System_admin *http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents#For_administrators ===Less spammable email addy=== *Posting less spammable email addy: **If you want to post your own spam resistant email address, use something like: **<nowiki>name[[Image:atsymbol.png]]organization[[Image:dot.png]]org </nowiki> **to show **name[[Image:atsymbol.png]]organization[[Image:dot.png]]org :: This seems cool. Can it be a template? I'll get to work on it :-) :::Seems to work. See [[Template:Em]]. Takes three arguments. Where to offer this to users? --[[User:Curtbeckmann|Curtbeckmann]] 19:35, 4 October 2006 (PDT) ==How to mark notes for tech admin work== *Use {{tl|deeptechadmin}} that puts a marker and includes it in a category? ===Interwiki Linking=== *Add [http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Interwiki_links interwiki] links as necessary (note: when we have shell access we can add all quickly with ''REPLACE INTO interwiki (iw_prefix,iw_url,iw_local) VALUES''[http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Interwiki_links], although many are already done): **Login to phpMyAdmin and navigate to Server: Localhost -> Database: appropedia -> Table: w1interwiki. **Click the '''browse''' tab for a list of all rows in the table. ***You can also edit an entry here, e.g. on 8/6/06 wika was edited so that iw_url was set to http://www.wikia.com/wiki/$1 instead of the erroneous http://www.wikia.com/wiki/Index.php/$1. **At the bottom of the page, select '''insert new row.''' **On the following page, fill in the keyword for interwiki linking in the value field of '''iw_prefix.''' Then type the wiki URL into the field '''iw_url.''' Make sure to append $1 to the URL (this will be replaced with the article name). e.g. <nowiki>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/$1</nowiki> for Wikipedia. **NOTE: do not select a function for either fields. This will convert the values you have entered. Ignore the fields iw_local and iw_trans. **Click go, and check to see if a new entry has been added to the table. ***Additional note: when I first tried this, I clicked the insert tab at the top of the page and did the same as above. It did not work, but also did not appear to cause any problems. If you experience problems with interwiki linking, please have an experienced phpMyAdmin user check it out. **add http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/ the wiki dictionary. ===Encourage more Spanish=== *Encourage some Spanish projects and sites... here is some language from wikipedia en espanol, para describir este sitio. **Wikipedia es una enciclopedia libre escrita por voluntarios de todo el mundo. Los siguientes artículos pueden servir de ayuda ya sea para leer, editar o participar de los objetivos de este sitio. ==For BOD== BOD = ...? :'''BOD = "Board of Directors". Technically, Appropedia does not yet have a board of directors. The closest approximation is the founder, plus whomever he deems as "acting board member." So far in practice, these seems (my sense) to be the SysOps... --[[User:Curtbeckmann|CurtB]] 15:02, 26 November 2006 (PST)''' ===New user notification=== *http://www.mediawiki.org/wiki/New_User_Email_Notification ===Templates=== *Template for Topics **Introductory Description (brief) **How it works (in Depth) **Examples **Pros **Cons **Common Errors **Projects **Links *Template for Projects *see [[:Category:Templates]] ** see {{Tl|Createnewpage}} *banners, userboxes or infoboxes to differentiate between projects, programs, topics, tools, etc. ===Logo=== *see [[Appropedia:Logos]] ===Converting=== Find the best then add to help pages. *To convert word documents: **http://confluence.atlassian.com/display/CONFEXT/Word+to+Confluence+Converter?focusedCommentId=11298 **http://www.infpro.com/.%5Cdownloads%5Cdownloads%5Cwordmedia.htm *To convert excel files: **http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Benutzer:Duesentrieb/csv2wp_%28en%29 ***Cut and paste ***super fast and simple ***no formatting retained **http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Helferlein/EXCEL_Tabellenumwandlung#Description_.28Same_as_above_in_english.29 ***VBA ***More complicated to install first time ***Easy to use once installed ***Retains formatting *http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Tools/Editing_tools **Great page on different editing tools... html to wiki seems to work well. ==For All== ===Topics=== *Topics are now called categories to match with inherent wiki format **consider restricting access to editing categories **[[Template:Stub]] *keep building list of topics, but insert them as categories **e.g. Kirsten Thompson - Male contraception ~ Category:Male contraception *Keep talking about namespaces versus other ways to differentiate the different areas of Appropedia. ===Other media=== *Best way to include other media? For instance, language neutral video? **see [[Temporary wikitests]] for some tests **http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia:Multimedia **http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikipedia_talk:Media **I would rather host the video with google, youtube or vimeo and embed or reference it from appropedia --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 03:36, 13 May 2006 (PDT) **Try hosting short videos on appropedia for tests. ***use ffmpeg2theora ===About Appropedia=== *This page needs a lot of work... background, purpose and areas. Most of this information is already spread about apporpedia and needs to be compiled. * See the four proposed areas in [[Appropedia:About_Appropedia]] (''Finally put more of this down in type, in an email with [[User:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]]'') ** These have been revised '''greatly''' see [[Appropedia_talk:Technical_questions#Directory_of_articles]] for more. **Rewrite these soon with new insights and more formallized structures. * Once done, move this to [[Appropedia:About]] and then delete the old one. ===Suggestions for other areas=== ====Reviews==== * <b>resource, books, tools reviews</b> format ''suggestion'': ** title/ suitable unique descriptor ** author/source ** <b>review</b> (personal comment), ''signed?'' Reviews have value when they come from somebody's experience ** relevant picture, maybe not the cover ** relevant quote(s) ''quotes or a single picture for <u>reviews</u> are generally allowed under copyright rules'' ** space/structure for further comments Unlike the main articles, which should attempt unified result through peer review, I believe reviews themselves should show personal opinions, with some editing as needed for neatness/spelling/appropriatedness, to avoid a "from the pulpit" endorsement of a given resource. ====Topics==== *Consider distancing the categories from encylopedic entries and/or just doing some type of transclussion. ====Curricula==== *Once we have a [[curricula]] area, encourage teachers with language such as: Hey teachers - Post your curricullum in the Curricula area Students can make comments, or ask questions (or consider a seperate Q&A page) See ____________ for an example To start just search for something like '''Myname_mycourse''' Start editting and do not forget to add the <nowiki>[[Category:Curricula]]</nowiki> at the bottom of the page ===Advertising=== See [[Appropedia:Promotion_of_Appropedia]] ==See also== *[[Appropedia:Admin tasks]] [[Category:Appropedia maintenance|{{PAGENAME}}]] 1293 46057 2008-06-28T08:01:51Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-appropriate technology +[[appropriate technology]]) [[Image:Finished.jpg|right|475px|Tire shingles]] ==The Big Idea== One day, I saw a bunch of old tires used as a retaining wall and that got me thinking about what other uses old tires are good for. I had a few thoughts about what to make but I liked the idea of tire shingles the best. The fact that they would be malleable really hooked me. I couldn't wait to get started! [[Image:DSCN0981.JPG|175px|The tire pile|left]] ==Information on Tires== The fabric of the tire is steel, nylon, aramid fiber, rayon, fiberglass, or polyester combination. The rubber is natural and synthetic (hundreds of polymer types). There are plenty of chemicals such as reinforcing chemicals, anti-degradants, adhesion promoters, curatives, and processing aids such as oil. During my research I also found the typical percentages of the (Synthetic Rubber and Natural Rubber) rubber mix in various types of tires. Passenger car tires are 55% to 45%, Light truck tires are 50% to 50%, Race tires are 65% to 35%, and off highway tires 20% - 80%. Next I wanted to know what other problems they may cause other than the environmental impact due to the composition of a tire. I hadn't thought about this but it makes perfect sense. I discovered that tires make the perfect breeding ground for [[mosquito]]s. With all of the diseases that mosquitos are carrying now-a-days these tires are causing a potential threat to [[public health]] and safety. Finally, I wanted to know what other methods of tire recycling are out there. I found a company called [http://www.rubburconcepts.com/ Rubbur Concepts] that uses a compression mold to turn used tires into replica cedar and slate shingles. I also found that Old tires are shredded and used in combination with asphalt to pave roads. [[Image:Coop.jpg|400px|The Clients and the Coop|right]] ===Materials for Shingles=== # 36 Race Car Tires # Sharp Razor Blades ===Materials for Roof=== # (3) 3/4" Plywood sheets # (2) 8ft 2"x4" # Screws # Miscelaneous wood that I had ===Clients/Site=== As you can see these are my clients. The owners of the chickens wanted the run of the coop covered. I discussed my idea with them and they agreed to let me build it. Littl did I know . . . ===Trial and Error=== As with any project there are always mistakes, or learning curves as some might say. So here is where I tell you about what didn’t work (for me). The initial tire concept was based on utilizing radial tires and that changed very quickly. The first tire I tried to cut was, to say the least, very smelly. I tried using a cutting wheel on the end of a drill (spinning at about 30,000RPM) and I found that while it would cut through the bead of the tire and all of the steel belts it wouldn’t cut the rubber, it just melted it. After breathing a cloud of burning rubber and trying it again wearing a breathing mask, I decided that it may not be the most “appropriate” method. That particular method took about an hour and a half with only 8 small shingles being produced. The next method I tried was a jigsaw; it didn’t even cut through the rubber. The tire was too flimsy and would shake, so the jigsaw couldn’t cut it if the tire didn’t stay still. I didnt even get one shingle out of that attempt. The last method I used on the radial tires was a hack saw and let’s just say that it would have taken more than a year to cut the shingles that I needed. I then learned that there is only one part of a radial tire that doesn't have steel belts and that is the side wall between the tread and bead. I did try to use a razor blade and cut just the side wall but it was harder to cut curves and keep them some what straight edged. ===The Method Used=== After several failed attempts with radial tires, I spoke with a local tire dealer and found that Racing tires only have Steel belts in the side walls, not in the tread. He happened to have an old tire so I took it home to see what I could do. I drilled a hole in the tread and used a key hole saw to start cutting. It went rather smoothly but it did take two people and still took about 45 minutes to make 12 – 14 shingles. I knew these were the type of tires I needed but I needed a lot of them, it turns out the the guy at the local tire dealer knew someone who had a ton of old Racing tires. Before I went to the store to buy brand new hole saws, I tried a razor blade (just for laughs actually) and found that it cut through the tire like a hot knife through butter (Image1). This method cut the time down to minutes. After cutting the side walls off, I had a round thin circle of rubber(Image2). Then cut it so it was a long flat sheet about 8” x 80” (Image3). [[Image:Razor.jpg|175px|thumb|left|Image1]] [[Image:Tirestrip.jpg|thumb|50px|right|Image3]] [[Image:Tirering.jpg|175px|thumb|center|Image2]] Now that I had a sheet of rubber all that was left to do was make the actual shingles. As you can see in Image3 I used a piece of chalk to mark where I needed to make the cuts and this is a good time to have someone with you. I averaged 14 shingles per tire and the shingles were 5" x 8". My friends and I used a method that we called "the bend and spread". As you can see, below in Image4 the "bend" portion refers to actually bending the rubber strip to help keep the rubber from kinking while cutting. Image5 is showing the spread part, while being cut the person bending the rubber should also help sread it so it is easier and faster to cut. I didnt time how long each individual tire took to cut, but with four people and in four hours we cut all 36 tires and made 460 shingles. I was very happy with the time results. Each tire produced about 2ft^2. [[Image:Bend-.jpg|thumb|325px|left|Image4]] [[Image:Spread.jpg|thumb|100px|center|Image5]] [[Image:Thesketch.jpg|175px|right|Image6]] ===The Roof=== As mentioned earlier during the Clients/Site portion, I ended with "little did I know . . .". Well, I didnt think ahead with the weight factor. The run that was already built for the coop was way too flimsy to support these shingles. The shingles averaged 14 lbs. per 25 shingles and I had 460. Since covering the run was out, the owners and I needed to think of what we could do instead. They had a big enough garden and the chickens already had access to it so we decided to build a semi-portable roof and place it in the garden area. To the right is the sketch for the new roof and it required (2) 8' 2"x4" and (3)4'x8'Plywood sheets. [[Image:Structure.jpg|left|thumb|150px|Image7]] [[Image:Withroof.jpg|center|thumb|150px|Image8]] Image7 shows the assembly of the sides and front portion of the roof. The other parts of the structure are shown in Image8. All wood was assembled with reused screws and nails that the owners had. Also in Image8 you can see part of the removable roof measuring 6'x6'. The top of the roof was 4ft high and the lower portion was only 3ft high. ===Shingle Installation=== The typical shingles you see on roofs are installed using tar paper, which helps ensure that water will not leak in. Also standard shingles are usually doubled up on the first row to help keep water out. The shingles were a bit thick (1/4")so I was not able to double up, but I did find that the rubber is very tight against the nail and helps to seal the holes much more so than traditional shingles. In Images 9 and 10 you will see a plastic bag that I stapled down for a little extra protection and the process of installing the shingles. The owners did have some roofing nails but I ran out and had to buy a box to finish the project. I took about 14 hours of labor to nail all of the shingles in and it only took four hours to make them all. [[Image:Firstrow.jpg|thumb|275px|left|Image9]] [[Image:Halfway.jpg|thumb|275px|right|Image10]] ==Conclusion== In all, the design worked just as I thought it would. It was put through the Northern California rain test and there were not any visible leaks, although, water always finds a way. I was happy that I only spent $10 to make the shingles, the $10 was the purchase of several razor blades and utility knives. The structure itself was a bit more, but the main focus was the tire shingles themselves. This was a successful project, but that depends on your definition of [[appropriate technology]]. At the beginning of this class I thought the definition was that all other technology is inappropriate. I then formulated my definition to "our best effort in leaving the smallest environmental impact". I now know that what is good for one person will not be good for another, so my definition has changed again, "our best effort in leaving the smallest environmental footprint within the ways that we choose to live". [[Image:Leftovers.jpg|right|150px|thumb|Image11]] ==Afterthoughts== During the making of this project I had several ideas that I was not able to implement or test. The shingles did work fine, but if I was going to use them on my roof I would want them to be a bit more uniform and not so wavy. I need to find a way to cut straight lines; I had thought of a paper cutter, but this project needs something with more leverage and durability. Another idea I had was to build a rain gutter to catch the water, then I could have it tested, so I could know exactly what is running off. Unfortunately the funding for this project did not allow such an expensive test. It might have made things easier if I had made the shingles bigger. In case you are wondering what happend to all 72 sidewall rings (Image11). I spoke to the guy who gave me the tires and it turns out that he also races go carts, he said he could use those to lay out track designs. ==Main author== This project was carried out and written up by [[User:Brad Thompson|Brad Thompson]]. ==Useful Links== *[http://www.rubburconcepts.com/AboutUs.htm/ Rubbur Concepts] *[http://www.goodyear.ca/tire_school/ingredients.html/ GoodYear] *[http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/Tires/ California Tire Management] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Alternative building]] [[Category:2006]] [[Category:Waste management]] [[Category:Mosquito control]] 1296 45255 2008-06-09T01:43:21Z Lonny 2 /* Project Update: 1 Year Later */ [[Image:AEFcurrentmarsh.jpg|frame|The new and improved Marsh|left]] For our final project we rebuilt a greywater system at the [[CSA]], Arcata Educational Farm. [[Greywater]] consists of all used water produced at a particular site, except for water coming from the toilet, which is known as blackwater. When building a greywater system you first separate the greywater from the blackwater and send the greywater through a separate treatment system. Ideally, after the greywater passes through the purification process it will then be able to be reused. Greywater systems are an appropriate use of technology for many reasons. Some of them being: they reduce the use of fresh [[water]], there is less stress on existing more conventional [[:Category:Septic_tanks|septic tanks]], it is a highly effective [[:Category:Water_purification|purification]] process, and there is less chemical and [[energy]] use required. In our case the majority of water used on the farm is to water [[:Category:Food crops|vegetables]], herbs, flowers and fruits, and the source of greywater comes from the outdoor kitchen, used by the farmers and volunteers to cook and wash vegetables or dishes. == The original system == [[Image:AEFprevmarsh.jpg|thumb|Fig 1: Previous marsh flow diagram|left]] [[Image:AEFprevfilt1.jpg|thumb|Fig 2: Previous marsh settling tank|right]] The original system was a constructed wetland with an initial settling tank that had no existing grease trap or filtration system. The initial settling tank was a 55 gallon drum, which sat entirely underground. The water came straight from the kitchen sink and into the drum. When the water reached the top of the drum it would flow out a funnel, and into the marsh. The marsh was a five by ten foot rectangular pond and was approximately 4-6 inches in depth. The waterproof membrane was made of pond liner and was filled with pea gravel and bulrush. In this particular system the water was not reused, it was simply directed out of the right corner at the end of the marsh. It was not clear to us when we were deconstructing the marsh why there was a settling tank to begin with, because it seemed that a pipe going directly into the marsh would have had the same effect. We identified some major flaws in the original design: the initial settling tank was ineffective, because there was no grease trap; there was no filtration system to eliminate larger food particles from entering the wetland; and the drum simply acted as a holding tank, which is a serious mistake because when greywater is held stagnant it turns into blackwater. Moreover, the wetland was too shallow, causing the water to overflow when large amounts of water were introduced to the system, and there were no existing baffles, to help move and filter the water over the roots of the plants. == The new Greywater marsh: design, method, and materials == Our design is also a constructed wetland, but it is much larger and has a functional settling tank and an outlet that waters a nearby apple tree. The design we chose was based on the small amount of greywater generated on a weekly basis on site. In the book "Create an Oasis with Greywater", Art Ludwig provides a source estimation guide. He approximates that with conservation a kitchen sink will use five gallons of water per day, per person. This means that with two farmers using the kitchen sink everyday they would produce 70 gallons of water per week. We also took into consideration volunteers and interns on the farm, and estimated that with one volunteer per day, it would add another 35 gallons a week to the total. In addition we calculated the use of the kitchen by the Community Agriculture class on Friday, and estimated a total of fifteen students. This adds another 75 gallons of water used per week. Finally we calculated the water needed to wash vegetables during the climax of the season and calculated a total of 20-30 gallons per week. The grand total of water used at the Arcata Educational Farm equates to approximately 200 gallons of greywater produced per week. For the amount of water used per week at the farm, a constructed wetland design best fit our project. [[Image:AEFprevfilt2.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 3: Cleaning out the old tank]] [[Image:AEFdigmarsh.jpg|thumb|right|Fig 4: Digging out the old marsh]] After determining the amount of water used on a weekly basis at the farm, and choosing our design, we began to deconstruct the original system and salvaged as much of the bulrush as we could. The next step was to get rid of the blackwater sitting in the original tank (see Fig 3). This was a disgusting process, the smell was horrid, I would not wish this upon anyone. Once the blackwater was disposed of, we started to dig the hole for our marsh (see Fig 4). The hole is five by twelve feet and has a gradual gradient, from 24-30 inches in depth. The hole was dug at a slope so that gravity will move the water through the marsh system (see diagram in Fig 5). The hole was dug 24-30 inches deep so that the bulrush and cattail roots would be able to grow at their full potential. Once the hole was dug we used two pieces of pond liner to cover the hole and placed rocks along the outside to hold the pond liner in place (see Fig 6). Then we installed one and a half baffle systems, which were made of plywood (see Fig 7). The first baffle system was placed three feet from the inlet pipe, and the half baffle was near the end before the outlet pipe. The first baffle is flush to the bottom of the marsh and the second baffle sits on bricks. The last baffle is flush with the bottom of the marsh as well (see diagram in Fig 5). Getting the baffles to stay in place was a task. We carved grooves in the wall of the hole and slid the baffles down into the slot. To make this process easier we cut the corners off the bottom ends of the baffles, this helped prevent ripping of the pond liner. Lastly we packed mud around the outside of the baffles, under the pond liner. This method worked well, making the baffles very solid and secure. [[Image:AEFcurrentsystem.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Fig 5: Diagram of new marsh]] For the initial settling tank we used the same drum, but we cut a foot off the top, to make the holding tank a bit smaller; reason being that holding greywater results in blackwater. The new settling tank sat a bit higher then the original, leaving almost half of the tank above ground. For filtration we installed a mesh screen around the top of the tank, which is held in place by a thin, but stiff aluminum strap that we manufactured. The screen is there to divert food particles and should be empty into the compost when need be(see Fig 8). Inside the tank we constructed a grease trap to keep the grease from entering the marsh. We placed a four gallon bucket upside down, and 3-4 inches over the top of 1 ½ inch vertical pipe. The vertical pipe in the initial settling tank determines the water line. This pipe runs through a hole (sealed) in the bottom of the tank and into the marsh (see diagram in Fig 5). When the water enters the tank it sinks to the bottom and flows under the bucket and down through the pipe, leaving the grease on the surface. Then the water flows out of the pipe, through a final screen, and into the marsh. <gallery> Image:AEFmarshliner.jpg|Fig 6: Putting in the pond liner Image:AEFbaffles.jpg|Fig 7: Putting in the baffles Image:AEFcurrentfilter.jpg|Fig 8: New filter </gallery> In conclusion, the water enters the system from the kitchen sink and flows through the filtration screen. Then the grease trap separates the water from the grease and the water finally flows out of the initial settling tank and into the marsh. Once the water exits the initial drum it flows by gravity over the first baffle, under the second, and over the third. This allows for the water to move across more surface area of the roots, making the water cleaner. Finally, the water flows to the right corner of the marsh, where there is a pipe that directs the water to a nearby apple tree. [[image:AEFfill.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Fig 9: Filling the baffled marsh with plants and gravel]] == Barriers/Limitations == After any project has been completed, the designers and constructors have a chance to step back and learn from the project. In our case, this is the first greywater system that we have constructed; and because of that fact we have learned from the actual system, people who have looked at the system and each other as well. As a result there are a few ideas that we have come up with if we were to construct this system again. An ideal result of our treated greywater would be to irrigate the field crops throughout the Arcata Educational Farm. However in an interest of money as well as the location of the sink used, we were able to water only one apple tree. One possible method of using the water to irrigate throughout the farm would be to collect the end water result into another tank; we would then be able to connect a hand pump to this tank that would then pump the water through PVC pipe to wherever the water was needed. When designing this greywater marsh, we constructed the system for a certain average flow per week. We decided to error on the side of caution and make the actual marsh system a little longer and wider then we may have actually needed. Instead of using scrap plywood that we found at a home re-model site as our baffles; it would have been nice to find large pieces of plastic that we could cut to size. Plastic would withstand the elements for a longer duration; however we hope that the painted plywood will last for a considerable amount of time. == Trouble Shooting == This system is designed extremely user friendly. Occasionally the screen lid will need to be scraped off, and the excess scraps can be placed on a compost pile. If for some reason the water is not draining out of the settling tank and into the marsh, it would be a good idea to check and unclog the screen on the inlet pipe that feeds into the marsh. If this does not solve the problem, there is also a screen on the outlet pipe that transfers the water to the apple tree. ==Project Update: 1 Year Later == One year later, Spring 2006, and this system seems to be thriving. *The old filter shown in Fig 8 has been replaced by a metal filter as shown in Fig 10. This new filter will hold up to the elements and use for much longer than the previous fabric mesh filter. *The innovative grease trap shown in Fig 11 is working well, with one small problem: the upside-down 5-gallon bucket is tilting and allowing some grease to pass into the marsh. This tilting is caused by a pressure difference similar to attempting to push an upside-down glass into a basin of water. To correct for this tilting, a stronger mount may be constructed or a small hole may be drilled into the 5 gallon bucket to allow for air to pass. *Although it is too early to tell, currently the recycled wood baffles are not showing the signs of decay worried about in the Barriers/Limitations section. *The farmers removed some of the cattail and bulrush this season (see Fig 12), as the system was starting to get overrun and risking [[eutrophication]]. Overall the system seems to be in great health, with no smell of anaerobic decay detected and strong marsh plant and recipient apple tree growth seen in Fig 13. <gallery> Image:AEFgreywaterFilterSpr06.JPG|Fig 10: New metal screen for filter. Image:AEFgreywaterTrapSpr06.JPG|Fig 11: Grease trap with a small tilting problems. Image:AEFgreywaterPlantsSpr06.JPG|Fig 12: New green shoots and brown, senesced, cutback. </gallery> [[Image:AEFgreywaterTreeSpr06.JPG|frame|right|Fig 13: The system and its tree.]] [[Category:Arcata Educational Farm]] [[Category:Constructed wetlands]] [[Category:Engr305]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Greywater treatment]] [[Category:Humboldt County, California]] [[Category:2005]] 1297 1325 2006-04-07T00:43:03Z SaraS 6 Arcata educational farm greywater system baffles. Arcata educational farm greywater system baffles. 1298 1327 2006-04-07T01:13:40Z SaraS 6 Current arcata educational farm greywater system filter. Current arcata educational farm greywater system filter. 1299 1328 2006-04-07T01:14:26Z SaraS 6 Current Arcata Educational Farm marsh. Current Arcata Educational Farm marsh. 1300 1329 2006-04-07T01:15:29Z SaraS 6 Current Arcata Educational Farm marsh diagram drawn by Kris Kalinczok. Current Arcata Educational Farm marsh diagram drawn by Kris Kalinczok. 1301 1330 2006-04-07T01:16:49Z SaraS 6 Digging out the Arcata Educational Farm marsh. Digging out the Arcata Educational Farm marsh. 1302 1331 2006-04-07T01:21:48Z SaraS 6 Filling the Arcata Educational Farm marsh with gravel and plants (mostly cattail). Filling the Arcata Educational Farm marsh with gravel and plants (mostly cattail). 1303 1332 2006-04-07T01:22:31Z SaraS 6 Fillng the Arcata Educational Farm marsh baffles with gravel. Fillng the Arcata Educational Farm marsh baffles with gravel. 1304 1333 2006-04-07T01:23:13Z SaraS 6 Putting in the new Arcata Educational Farm marsh liner. Putting in the new Arcata Educational Farm marsh liner. 1305 1334 2006-04-07T01:24:11Z SaraS 6 Planting the old Arcata Educational Farm marsh plants into the new improved AEF marsh. Planting the old Arcata Educational Farm marsh plants into the new improved AEF marsh. 1306 1335 2006-04-07T01:24:53Z SaraS 6 Arcata Educational Farm marsh plants. Arcata Educational Farm marsh plants. 1307 1336 2006-04-07T01:25:39Z SaraS 6 The previous system prefilter from the Arcata Educational Farm marsh. The previous system prefilter from the Arcata Educational Farm marsh. 1308 1337 2006-04-07T01:26:15Z SaraS 6 Cleaning out the previous prefilter of the Arcata Educational Farm marsh. Cleaning out the previous prefilter of the Arcata Educational Farm marsh. 1309 1338 2006-04-07T01:26:52Z SaraS 6 The previous marsh flow diagram by Kris Kalinczok. The previous marsh flow diagram by Kris Kalinczok. 1310 1344 2006-04-07T03:45:17Z Lonny 2 1311 17024 2007-02-14T03:29:32Z Chriswaterguy 49 italic, as usually used for such notices; make briefer. Or is this now too brief/unobtrusive? [[Image:catalert.png]] ''To include a page in this category, paste the following at the end:'' : <nowiki>[[Category:</nowiki>{{PAGENAME}}<nowiki>]]</nowiki> <noinclude> [[Category:Notice templates|{{PAGENAME}}]] </noinclude> 1312 47859 2008-07-26T20:30:29Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] {{Browsetopic}} ==See also== *[[Portal:Water]] ==Interwiki links== *[[Wikia:Water|WaterWiki]] {{Newpageresource}} {{Topicadmin|Chriswaterguy}} [[Category:Topics]] 1316 9750 2006-12-13T05:22:47Z Curtbeckmann 67 removed [[Category:Topic]] (still under Alternative construction)) {{wikipedia}} {{Browsetopic}} ==Organizations== ;[http://www.americanbamboo.org/ American Bamboo Society] ==Links== ;http://www.americanbamboo.org/GeneralInfo.html :Very nice general information from the American Bamboo Society ;http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/bamboo.html :Bamboo: A Multipurpose Agroforestry Crop {{Newpageresource}} [[Category:Alternative building]] 1320 53753 2008-10-08T10:28:09Z Chriswaterguy 49 {{main|Portal:Greywater treatment}} ; move {{wikipedia}} down {{main|Portal:Greywater treatment}} {{Browsetopic}} {{TOCright}} ==Introduction== Greywater, sometimes also spelled as '''graywater''', '''grey water''' or '''gray water''', is all of the effluent water from a household, except that from the [[Toilet design|toilet]]s, which is sometimes called "blackwater". In addition, if greywater is held for too long (>24 hours in temperate climates), it will become blackwater.{{fact}} The water leaving our homes carries nutrients and value. It may also contain [[pathogens]], and/or harsh chemicals and care should be taken with it; however, it is not a great risk compared to blackwater ([[sewage]]). Redirecting the water we use for tasks such as showering allows us to reclaim some of that value to grow plants and recharge the [[water table]]. It may be necessary to choose our [[soap]]s and [[detergent]]s more carefully, if we use the greywater for watering and fertilizing plants. ==Tips on how to minimize health risks associated with greywater== * Wash yourself after contacting greywater. * Install signage around greywater [[irrigation]] systems or areas. * Do not drink or play with greywater. * Do not allow anything that may be eaten to come into contact with greywater. * Do not allow greywater to pond or run off the property. * Do not wash domestic [[pets]] in greywater or allow pets to drink greywater. * Do not use greywater in public places such as children's play areas or playgrounds, BBQ areas or recreation facilities. ==Suggested projects== * What is the effect of various detergents and soaps in a greywater system? Consider the receiving soil and plant types - the answer may vary.{{sp}} ==Organizations== *[http://watercasa.org/graywaterharvesting.php Water Conservation Alliance of Southern Arizona] ==Projects== *The old [http://www.humboldt.edu/~ccat/waterconservation/marsh/index.html greywater] system at [[:Category:CCAT|CCAT]] ==Interwiki links== {{wikipedia}} * [[Greenlivingpedia:Knoxfield house#Greywater System|Knoxfield greywater system]] - application of greywater treatment in a house in Knoxfield, in the suburbs of [[Melbourne]], [[Australia]]. - ''Greenlivingpedia'' ==External links== *[http://www.graywater.net/ Oasis Designs] - The best [http://www.oasisdesign.net/greywater/misinfo/index.htm common errors and best practices] section ever. *The [http://epa.gov/water/ EPA] on water. *[http://agroforestry.net/overstory/overstory99.html Agroforestry] on greywater for Trees and Landscape. *http://www.greywater.com/ - Check out their [http://www.greywater.com/pollution.htm pollution] page. *[http://cahe.nmsu.edu/pubs/_m/m-106.html College of Agriculture and Home Economics New Mexico State University] *[http://www.latimes.com/features/home/la-hm-graywater29mar29,0,7773709.story 3/29/07 LA Times article on Grey water's red tape] *[http://www.owue.water.ca.gov/docs/graywater_guide_book.pdf The graywater guide book from January 1995 (pdf)] **Focuses on Subsurface Drip Irrigation and Mini-Leachfield in California *[http://www.owue.water.ca.gov/docs/Revised_Graywater_Standards.pdf 1997 Revised California Graywater Standards (pdf)] **Main changes: *#Use in commercial, industrial and multifamily projects is now acceptable (and procedures for estimating discharge in those environments are now included). Whereas before only single family homes were allowed. *#One irrigation zone is now acceptable. Whereas before two were required. *#Filters are now sized based on filtration rate. Whereas before a 1 inch filter was prescribed. *[http://www.p2pays.org/ref/18/17818.htm California Revised Greywater Code (html)] *[http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/natres/06702.html Colorado State University - Greywater information] *[http://weblife.org/humanure/chapter9.html Chapter 9 of the Humanure Handbook] **Excellent resource. Punchline: 1 <math>ft^3</math> of Constructed Wetland for every 1 gallon of graywater per day. This must be with a maximum two foot depth, especially considering that Oasis Design states 1/2 to 1 square foot for every 1 gallon of graywater per day. *[http://www.p2pays.org/ref/12/11609.pdf Texas A&M Greywater] **Great pictures {{Stub}} {{Newpageresource}} {{Topicadmin|Lonny}} [[Category:Wastewater]] [[Category:Sewage]] 1323 23699 2007-05-22T08:03:09Z Lonny 2 removed topic category... We can put a category in Template {{Browsetopic}} if we end up needing one for a Semantic wiki implementation. {{wikipedia p|Cob (building)}} {{Browsetopic}} ==Introduction== Cobb is a type of [[:Category:Earthen construction|earthen construction]] composed, like [[:Category:Adobe|adobe]], of sand, clay, fiber (usually straw) and often other organic ingredients. Cobb is made as one contiguous structure, with clumps of cobb mixture being added to previous cobb clumps, hence the other name for cobb - monolithic adobe. Cob structures are extremely durable, with many very old structures still in use{{fact}}. They also regulate temperature due to their high [[:Category:Heat#Thermal mass|thermal mass]], which is very usefull in climates with high diurnal temperature swings. ==Links== ;[http://www.pequals.com/at/natoven/ Cob fixing] :Need to fix up that old cob bench you made in your back yard? Nat Davies made additions to the cob turtle and also fixed up an older cob bench in the community. A fine cob fixer is she as her hands on application and use of basic tools and techniques provide just the right touch to aid any failing cob project. ;[http://www.humboldt.edu/~pjm26/cob.htm Cob info] Humboldt State University student web page on Cob. ;[http://www.pequals.com/at/ccatbench/cobbench.htm CCAT Cob Bench] :Did you ever notice that place in your back yard where you always want to just sit and kick back but didn't want to install a commercially produced park bench? Jessica Rendon led a supported campaign to finish the construction of the cob bench at the Campus Center for Appropriate Technology at Humboldt State University, California. This cob bench is fully loaded with an urbanite/cinder block foundation, seashell and mirror inlays, inset soil analysis, and more! We do just about everything cob around here. So sit down, kick off your shoes, and stay a while. ;[[Bottoms Strawbale Earthen Plaster|Straw Bale wall is Plastered]] :Appropriate technology students apply a natural plaster to a straw bale wall, for a smoother look. Recipes and tricks to finishing this wall include everything from burlap sacks to milk curds in the natural red paint. {{Newpageresource}} {{Topicadmin|Lonny}} [[Category:Earthen construction]] 1327 1406 2006-04-12T22:53:51Z Lonny 2 Irony. Violation of the first and second law of thermodynamics. A billboard on the side of the road in Northern California. Irony. Violation of the first and second law of thermodynamics. A billboard on the side of the road in Northern California. 1328 45174 2008-06-06T17:16:09Z 119.30.124.43 /* Author */ [[Image:Aleiha dish.jpg|right|frame|Building a very hot parabolic solar cooker using pedal power tools.]] ==An Introduction to the Parabolic Solar Cooker== ===The Paraboloid Shape=== The paraboloid is an interesting shape with some amazing qualities. It has the power to concentrate light, electronic waves, sound, etc. to its focus at the center. To find the focal point of a paraboloid, one must use the formula, <math>x^2=4*p*y</math>. To find y, measure the depth of the dish, and to find x, measure the length from the center to the outer brim. You have to pretend that there is an x,y axis going through the center of the dish. The two numbers represent a point on the paraboloid, and from that, you are able to determine where the focus is. [[Parabolic shape calculation]] [[image:parabolic.gif|frame|Notice how the focus is the same for the various parabolas.]] ===A Brief History=== Parabolic [[cookers]] have been used for centuries now. The idea to concentrate light using curved mirrors was developed by the Greeks, Aztecs, Incas, Romans and Chinese. The Incas used bronze and gold for their mirrors and they built structures that were several stories high. This technology seems to have appeared around the same time for each of the civilizations. It is thought that {{WP p|Archimedes|Archimedes harnessed the technology}} to defend Syracuse from invading Roman fleets in 212 BC. ==My Parabolic Solar Cooker== ===A Brief Description=== At first, I was open to anything to construct the [[:Category:Solar_cooking|solar cooker]]. I was thinking about constructing my paraboloid out of [[cobb]] and then sticking small pieces of glass into it as I've seen others do. However, it takes a lot of time to collect the cobb materials and build a paraboloid out of it, let alone one whose focus was accurate. A donated dish was viable, but would not have the heat capacity I was going for, so I set out to find another dish. While rummaging around [[Humboldt CA supplies|Arcata Scrap and Salvage]] one day, I came across an old mesh satellite dish and I knew I had found my cooker. My mentor Bart Orlando and I hauled it to the Bike Library where my cooker began to take shape. ===Location and Help=== Most of the construction and testing took place at the Arcata Bike Library with the help of Bart Orlando. However, I did most of the cutting of the [[:Category:Metal working|sheet metal]] at the HSU sculpture lab. We also used the pedal-powered tools there to construct the mount hot plate grill. ===Materials Used=== *Satellite dish (6 ft. in diameter) *Sheet aluminum *Conduit piping *A [[Bicycling|bike]] rim *Aluminum rivets and washers *Nuts & bolts ===Method=== The basic idea was to use a satellite dish and rivet sheet aluminum to it. This is because a satellite dish is already a paraboloid shape with a fairly exact focus. The sheet aluminum was to be cut into triangular pieces and then drilled in 3-5 places for the rivets. They would conform to the shape of the paraboloid and not lessen the integrity of the focal point. We wanted the aluminum to be as exact as possible to ensure that it would reflect enough light to fry some potatoes. I wanted to do more than boil water with my cooker. The hot plate grill was to be constructed out of conduit and bike rims. We would flatten the ends of the conduit for easier attachment to the center pipe and rims, and then bolt it all together. We decided that a gimble would be the best for this project, so that we could move the pan (or pot) in any direction necessary to receive optimal sunlight. This is a more difficult design, but it gives the dish more freedom and a higher heating capacity. We began the project by testing a dish that Bart had at the Bike Library. It was slightly oblong and wasn't concave much, so we decided to test how accurate the focus was. I taped a few pieces of mylar on it and Bart and I took it out into the sun. It turned out that the dish had many foci because of its' oblong shape. I had to set out to find another dish if I wanted to be able to fry food with it. The one we had just wasn't going to cut it. That's when I made a trip to Arcata Scrap and Salvage and found the perfect dish for my project. [[image:testing.jpg|thumbnail|can you see the light reflecting on my hand?|left]] ===Final Construction=== ====Getting Ready==== We started by disassembling the focal point of the dish. There was an awkward pole sticking out of the center which was not appropriate for the design we were going for. We got a grinder out and sawed through the metal so that we could manipulate the pipe into a hot plate grill. Since the pole was bent near the base, we figured that it might not work for our design specifics. Luckily, we found that we could remove the pole by loosening a bolt at the base, and that allowed for it to slide right out. We were able to locate a longer pole later on, but at the time, we were planning on using the one that came with the dish. We also had to remove a bunch of miscellaneous pipes and widgets sticking out the back side of the dish. They were things that helped keep the dish balanced in place but were not needed in our design. After that, the dish was ready to for transformation. [[image:cutting.jpg|thumbnail|Sawing off the old mount pole.|left]] ====The Hot Plate Grill==== The next step was to construct a hot plate grill. The original focal point was somewhere between 27-31" but we forgot exactly. In order to make the mount, we needed to know how long to make it, so I decided to find the theoretical focus by using the formula: <math>x^2=4*p*y</math>. It worked out to be 29 3/4". We decided that it would be best if we used conduit to form a "v" shape and then fit in a few bike rims for the hot plate. We had to flatten the ends of the conduit and make sure that they were the right angle for the focus. This was done using a clamp and we were able to bend both pieces of conduit at the same time. The conduit pipes were a little too long so we had to shorten them using a Sawz-All at the Bike Library. After the sizing, it was time to drill some holes using a [[pedal power]]ed drill press. We discovered that the center pipe we wanted to use was slightly shorter than we wanted, but being that we were in such a resourceful area, we rummaged around and found a pipe that was the perfect size and width. The next step was to drill holes in the flattened sides of the conduit and our newly-found pipe and fit the pieces together. They fit quite nicely. We had to make sure that both the conduit pipes were bent at the same angle or else the structure would be unstable. The next step was to drill holes in the bike rim so that we could bolt it to the mount structure we just created. We drilled the holes using a drill press at the HSU sculpture lab and it was ready to be bolted together. <gallery> image:Drilling.jpg|Drilling holes in the conduit using pedal power. image:Measuring.jpg|Making sure the conduit is bent at the right angle. image:Cutting2.jpg|Sizing down the mount pole. image:Layinitout.jpg|Now all we have to do is bolt it all together. </gallery> ====The Mirror Finish==== Bart had acquired a bunch of sheet metal that he had wanted to use on a previous project, but decided that my dish could use them. There wasn't quite enough cut pieces to cover the entire surface area of the dish and I had to take some scrap sheet aluminum to the [[HSU]] sculpture lab to cut them into triangular shapes. After they had been cut, they needed to be prepared for riveting. It took about a half an hour to drill holes in all of the pieces and they were quickly ready to be fastened to the dish. While putting the pieces in place, we noticed that the holes we had drilled did not always match the pattern of the mesh, and there were areas where the mesh was covered with pieces of solid metal. These areas had to be dealt with differently. In some areas, we were able to drill holes through the metal for the rivets, and in others, we devised a way of using a thin wire to attach the pieces. I used a paperclip I found on the ground and stuck it through the hole and then through the mesh slightly above the triangle. Using pliers, I twisted the ends of the paperclip to form a tight grasp on the metal; it worked quite well. I was also able to get rivets with a larger gripping range and that helped with the thicker areas. After the pieces were all riveted into place, we noticed that there was a gap - there wasn't quite enough sheet metal to cover the whole dish. I drilled some more holes in the scrap pieces I had and was able to fasten them to the dish. There's still a little gap, but that really won't matter since the dish is so big, and most of it is coated anyway. The last step was to buff the aluminum to a sweet finish. [[image:Drilling3.jpg|thumbnail|More Pedal Power!|left]] [[image:Measurements.jpg|thumbnail|Getting measurements to calculate the focus.|right]] ====The Final Product==== Now the dish is ready for cookin'. It could use a little shining up with some Citra-Sol or something of that nature, but even without a shine job, the focus gets pretty hot. In terms of setting the dish up, all we need is to lean it up on something. There's a mount on the back of it with the capability of being staked in the ground. For that, I would have to find a long piece of pipe about 3 1/2" in diameter and at least 1/4" thick. <gallery> image:aleiha_dish.jpg|The Final Product. image:mount.jpg|The finished hot plate grill. </gallery> ===Testing=== My solar cooker is spectacular for cooking veggie burgers and beans. At 1:00 pm, the dish heats up to 400 ^oF. Around 2:00-3:00 pm, the dish heats up to 350 ^oF. I've found that the cooker doesn't burn food too easily. When I've forgotten abut something that's cooking, the sun moves in the sky. That automatically reduces the heat at the focus. Things have gotten caramelized, but it's hard to burn something. ===Final Costs=== {| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" align="center" ! Quantity !! Materials !! Source !! Cost ($) !! Total ($) |- | 1 || satellite dish || Arcata Scrap and Salvage |align="right"| 40 |align="right"| 40 |- | 1 || rivets and washers || Hensel Ace Hardware |align="right"| 25 |align="right"| 25 |- | 1 || other parts || Donated |align="right"| 0 |align="right"| 0 |- |colspan="4" align="right" | '''Total Cost''' |align="right"| 65 |} Everything else we had lying around at the bike library and was free (i.e. nuts & bolts, bike rims, pipes, tools). Bart gave me sheet metal that he was going to use for a different dish so that I could make mine. ==Conclusions== The first time you construct a solar cooker, you learn a lot in terms of what methods and materials to incorporate in construction. The next cooker I make will probably be a lot easier since I've already been through it. Next time, I would like to use a lighter aluminum for the mirror finish. The dish is relatively light for it's size, but it's certainly difficult to handle on your own. I would also consider a dish without reinforcing structures. They got in the way when I was riveting, and as unable to attach the aluminum in some areas. In order to be exact, the mirror finish needs to coat the entire surface area of the dish. This increases the heat capacity. But considering my dish's size, I don't think that it will have a hard time reaching high temperatures. And it hasn't. I've been cooking lunch with it for the past few days now, without a shine job on the sheet aluminum. ==Discussion== This project was the coolest thing I've done all year. Cooking food with my solar cooker is the best feeling in the world. It's cool to see something that I created work so well. The thing that I would like to add is a mount pole for the back of the dish. I am able to lean it up against a chair and stuff like that, but if i have to put it up at a hard angle, I might have a little more trouble. So that's something I'll have to think about, but for now, I'm having a blast in the afternoons cooking gardenburgers and fried potatoes. ==Things to Keep in Mind/Common Errors to Avoid== *Watch out for stray rays of light that come off your cooker. They could possibly start a fire if you aren't careful. It isn't much of a worry if your dish is more concave, but the flatter the dish is, the more likely that you will have stray rays of light. *Wear sunglasses when cooking because it gets really bright and hard for your eyes to handle. *Use a cast-iron or some other type of black cooking pot/pan. Any other color might reflect the light and that's not what you want. The black [[:Category:Heat|absorbs]] the light and brings the temperature up in the pot/pan. ==Author== *[[User:Aleiha]] [[Category:Engr305]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Parabolic solar cookers]] [[Category:Solar cooking]] [[Category:2006]] == Other Solar Cooker Plans Links == *[http://hubpages.com/hub/Concrete-Solar-concentrator Free and Easy DIY Parabolic Solar Concentrator Plan] *[http://hubpages.com/hub/solar-reflector How to harness Sun's energy by making a solar concentrator] 1329 53742 2008-10-08T10:26:17Z Redirect fixer 1435 [[Portal:Greywater]] has been moved, it is now a redirect to [[Portal:Greywater treatment]] #REDIRECT [[Portal:Greywater treatment]] 1331 1419 2006-04-13T23:54:01Z John Wu 5 Close up of the Solar Charged Lawnmower battery. Close up of the Solar Charged Lawnmower battery. 1332 1420 2006-04-13T23:56:54Z John Wu 5 Photovoltaic panel acting as the charging station for the solar charged lawnmower. Photovoltaic panel acting as the charging station for the solar charged lawnmower. 1333 1421 2006-04-13T23:57:47Z John Wu 5 Charge controller for the solar charged lawnmower. Charge controller for the solar charged lawnmower. 1334 1422 2006-04-14T00:00:02Z John Wu 5 Close up of the motor for the solar charged lawnmower. Close up of the motor for the solar charged lawnmower. 1335 1429 2006-04-14T00:28:56Z John Wu 5 Old lawnmower deck for the solar charged lawnmower. Old lawnmower deck for the solar charged lawnmower. 1336 1430 2006-04-14T00:29:43Z John Wu 5 Old lawnmower used for solar charged lawnmower. Old lawnmower used for solar charged lawnmower. 1337 1431 2006-04-14T00:30:31Z John Wu 5 Old lawnmower used for the solar charged lawnmower. Old lawnmower used for the solar charged lawnmower. 1338 49002 2008-08-11T16:43:41Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)natural building(.*$) +[[natural building]]\1) [[image:IMG_6520.JPG|550px|right]] This [[:category:photovoltaics|photovoltaic]] project was designed to provide electricity to light a home at a [[natural building]] institute in Central Argentina. There will be six lightbulbs used, four inside the home and 2 outside of the home. This home will be constructed by [[Kleiwerks]] and the lighting will provide an example for the community to see how photovoltaic systems work, focusing on how energy is drawn from sunlight and converted into electricity to power their homes. This will be the first of many photovoltaic systems in this community. This system is to operate loads at night or during cloudy weather. This PV systems will use batteries as a means of storing electrical energy. System loads can be powered by batteries at any time, regardless of weather. The size and configuration of a battery bank depends on the operating voltage and the amount of nighttime usage. The number of modules must be adequate to recharge the batteries during the day. It is very important not to let the batteries discharge or overcharge as either situation will damage them severely. A charge controller will disconnect the module from charging once the battery has fully loaded. Some charge controllers can also prevent the batteries from discharging too much by stopping the supply of power to the DC load. The DC system’s basic components include a PV module, charge controller, storage batteries, and the system's electrical load. '''''Since you are using an inverter you should mention that the lights are AC.''''' --[[User:Ajay|Ajay]] ==Method== Imperative to the success of building such a system, the following steps are specific to folks who are working on an international project as well as students whom are first-time photovoltaic builders. These steps are ones that I formulated during the process, but was unable to complete in this order during my project. When you read the discussion below, you will understand how my process was a little less organized and functional. Much of the time, I was trying to figure out what each part of the system was, how it worked, and why it was important. The material was foriegn to me, and so the majority of my work was spent reading and talking to others. If I would have had previous experience even putting together an engineering project such as this, my current project would be taken out in the following steps. Steps: # Who/What/Where/When/Why/How #* Who are you building the project for? I am building my project for a home located in San Luis del Monte de Oro, Argentina. #* What is required of the system? A system that can power four lightbulbs inside and two lightbulbs outside, for four hours a night, seven days a week. #* Where are you building the system? On or near the house where the lighting will be installed. The panel will need to be placed in an area where there is the least amount of shade, a fair degree of breeze to keep the temperature of the panel down, and on or close to the main house so that there is less requirement for long strands of wiring (the minumize resistance). #* When does the system need to be completed? The system needs to be completed by April, 2006. The system will be installed in Argentina at a later date, and will remain at HSU´s CCAT in the meantime. #* Why are they utilizing solar? They wish to display solar electricity in their central [[natural building]] home for a community which will be based on [[appropriate technology]]. Currently the town is not connected to the electrical grid, hence, there is no electricity in the community right now. Using photovoltaics in this rural community to provide lighting allows opportunites for community members to extend work days, socialize in the evenings, and any other activity that one might ingage in at night. This also provides an increased comfort level, there is no longer a limitation on daylight hours, and the security of walking around at night also increases. #* How is it going to be funded? The project will be funded through HSU's CCAT (Campus Center for Appropriate Technology). # Communication #* Once you figure out the basics, communicate with your site and let them know you are taking on the project. Ask any questions that might help you in the initial planning process. If there is anything that you feel confused by, do not hesitate to ask for help. Understanding photovoltaics can get rather confusing for the layman who has not had previous exposure to terminology and various concepts. # Design a Timeline #* Though this will often change during the trial/error process, make a tentative timeline and try to stick to it. Keep a journal and record all progress and include a communication log with your site. Remember that things will always take longer than you think - so get started EARLY! # Buy a Book #* I recommend purchasing "Photovoltaics: Design and Installation Manual" and make it your new best friend. If you are new at photovoltaics, and have never worked with electricity before, you may require many nights of book-bonding in order to make sense of pv systems. Also, there are other suggestions in the back of this book for more specific projects, as well as a section on specific design components. Familiarize yourself with the information that is available to you before focusing in on the details of the system. # Contact Locals #* Finding people in town who can help you answer questions will assist you in your learning process, and may also be available to help you during the construction of your project. # Draw a Preliminary Design #* Make sure you've figured out how to set up the whole entire system with all the parts. Are your loads DC or AC? Are you wiring in series or parallel? Draw out the system and label everything to make sure you've got every part labeled that you will need. Here is how I figured out what was required of my system: #** Gather site data #*** This will be a year-round system, operating only at night using the stored battery capacity, running through the inverter in order to supply the AC load. #*** In this location of Argentina, there are minimal days of autonomy; very little cloud cover and rain. Since the AC load is not in critical operation, a back-up power supply is not necessary, nor extra storage capacity from the batteries. #** Calculate stand-alone electric load estimates #*** I have six CFL bulbs, running at 16watts a piece - 16WAC x 6 bulbs = 96WAC #*** The loads will be used 4 hours a day - 96WAC x 4h/d = 384 #*** The loads will be used 7 days a week - 384 x 7 = 2688 #*** Then to figure AC watt hours per day - 2688 / 7 = 384 wH #** Determine number of PV panels and Determine how to wire PV panels together (series/parellel) #*** 12VDC, 50W panel - P=IV, I=P/V - I=50W/12VDC = 4.17A #*** 12VDC, 4A wired in parallel to increase current #*** 4A = 400 amp hours needed in the battery #** Determine battery type, sizing and wiring configurations #*** I will need One 12VDC battery with a storage capacity of 400aH. There is no need for multipule batteries since one battery can supply the energy needs of the system, and it is not critical to have back-up storage capacity, nor are there consistant days of autonomy. If I were to figure in the days of autonomy, I would average them to 2-3 days for non-essential uses or systems with a generator back-up. To average this in I would multiply the daily load wH x 2 or 3 days to = how many amp hours of capacity my batteries should supply. #** Determine controller type, sizing #*** The system controller must match the system voltage. #*** The controller must be capable of handling the maximum load current (amperage) that will pass through the controller. #*** The controller must be able to handle the maximum PV array current. #*** I want a solar charge controller that has a low voltage disconnect (LVD) or fuse to stop the battery from being over charged by the array, and to also stop the battery from being discharged by the load. #** AC or DC - Determine if you need an inverter #*** Since my loads are AC, I need an inverter to supply AC current to my loads. #** Determine how much wire your system will require based on distances of equipment #*** This is still unknown in my project because I have not had this information supplied to me from my contacts in Argentina. #** Determine how the system will be mounted #*** Again, this is unknown for my project. # Write a Budget #* Figure out where you are purchasing all your materials (make sure they have it in stock), how much each will cost, and what the total price will be for the project. # Get Funding #* Turn in your budget to be approved for funding. Discuss with them how you will go about purchasing the materials. (i.e. are they giving you money upfront, are you to purchase and get reimbursed, etc.) # Gather Electrical Materials #* I needed wire, wire cutters, wire stripper, wire bolts, pliers, screwdriver(s), knife, sockets and wrench # Practice Wiring your PV System #* I found it was very helpful to sit with my materials and wire everything together before trying to really "build" the system. I connected everything in parallel, and made sure that the system operated before actually building the system. I used the voltage meter to see where my electricity was being pulled from in my AC system. # Gather Mounting Materials #* Think about how you need to set up your system. Are you building it on a roof? Are you buidling your own mount on the ground somewhere? Gather some materials from local junkyards to construct the mount for the system. I collected most of my mounting materials from the metal junk yard and from a resale lumber yard. # Build the System #* I made an "A-Frame" mount for my photovoltaic system that I designed myself based on where the weight distribution would need to be supported the most. # Test the system #* The best way to test the system is by re-wiring the system to make sure that all your connections are secure and that you have reevaluated all the parts to make sure that they are doing their job properly within the system. I also made sure that everything was tight and secure so that weather would not affect the connections since the module was going to sit outside. # Draw Diagrams #* This will help you in the presentation process, as well as those who are trying to understand why and how everything works the way in which it does. It will also help you organize your thoughts so that you can review all the information - ultimately re-learning the logistics of the system design. # Write up a report #* Include any difficulties or problems you encountered during the learning process. This will also be good to review the next time you are interested in working on a similar project. A report serves as a guideline for those whom are also interested in working on a similar project. # Teach somebody #* If you don't have a class to present your project to, teach your friends/family/neighbors/roommates. Teaching someone will solidify your knowledge of photovoltaics, as well as introduce you to some new questions you may not have thought of on your own. THIS IS KEY! ==Electicity Materials== [[image:IMG_6743.JPG|265px|right]] *3 - 50 Watt/12 Volt Photovoltaic Panels *1 - Solar Charge Controller *1 - 12 Volt Battery *1 - 400 Watt/110 Volt Mod-Sine Inverter *6 - 15 Watt Compact Flourescent Lightbulbs *6 - Light Sockets *1 - Light Switch *Wires *Colored Electrical Tape ==Wiring the PV System== Once I had bought all of my materials for the Photovoltaic System, I sat them all out infront of me on the floor in my home. I put the parts in chronological order (PV panels - charge controller - battery - inverter - light switch - lightbulbs). I had my wire cutters, wire nuts, and wire. I made sure that I knew where all the positive leads connected to the next positive lead and negative to the negative since I was wiring my panels in parallel. I then cut around the tip of the wire to remove the protectant layer, exposing the tip of the wire. This allows me to make the connection strong between the wires I am putting together. Once I had two exposed ends of the wire, I connected them together using the wire nut. First, I connected the positive lead of the PV panel to the positive lead of the charge controller. Then I connected the negative lead of the PV panel to the negative lead of the charge controller. Keeping the positive connections to the next positive, and the negative to negative, I then connected the wires to the battery. From the battery, the wires connect to the inverter. Since the inverter had two plug outlets on the side of it instead of a place to connect raw wires, I made my own plugs by connecting the wires directly to the plug heads and wiring them into the system. I was then able to "plug in" the lights instead of having them permanently attached to the system. The lightbulbs directly plug into a lightswitch, which plugs into the inverter, and hence, are controllable by direct manipulation. There are six lightbulbs, wired in two sets of three, running through the lightswitch (which has a ground), totaling two plugs into the inverter. Something that I was really excited about when building the system was the discovery that the charge controller actually told me where it was pulling electricity from - the panels or the battery. The charge controller also indicates how much charge the battery is currently holding and when it is adding charge to the battery from the solar electricity produced. The inverter has a switch on the side of it to turn it on/off, which illuminates when operating. I put a light switch between the lightbulbs (load) and the inverter so that the clients could operate the system via a wall-plug or by switching on/off the inverter. ==Mounting Materials== [[image:IMG_6502.JPG|265px|right]] *Plywood *Supports 2x4 *Nails/Screws *Hinges *Measuring Tape *Hammer *Screwdriver *Electric Drill *Wire Cutters ==Mounting the PV System== ==Clients/Site== Clients: San Francisco del Monte de Oro, Argentina. Site: The Photovoltaic System was constructed in Arcata, California at the designers home. Later, it will be transported to the community in Argentina. ==Costs== {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="center" ! Quantity !! Materials !! Source !! Cost $ !! Total: |- | 3 || 50 Watt/12 Volt Photovoltaic Panel || Alternative Energy Engineering |align="right"| 285.00 |align="right"| 855.00 |- | 1 || Solar Charge Controller || Alternative Energy Engineering |align="right"| 60.00 |align="right"| 60.00 |- | 1 || 12 Volt Battery (Damaged frame) || Alternative Energy Engineering |align="right"| 100.00 |align="right"| 100.00 |- | 1 || 400 Watt/110 Volt Mod-Sine Inverter || Alternative Energy Engineering |align="right"| 42.31 |align="right"| 42.31 |- | 6 || 15 Watt Compact Flourescent Lightbulbs || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 20.00 |align="right"| 120.00 |- | 1 || Light Sockets || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 10.00 |align="right"| 10.00 |- | 1 || Wire || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 10.00 |align="right"| 10.00 |- | || Colored Electrical Tape || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 4.00 |align="right"| 4.00 |- | || Wood for mount || Resale Lumber Yard |align="right"| 30.00 |align="right"| 30.00 |- | 8 || Hinges || Metal Scrap Yard |align="right"| FREE |align="right"| 00.00 |- | 1 || Lightswitch || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 2.00 |align="right"| 2.00 |- | 8 || Wheels || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 10.00 |align="right"| 10.00 |- | || Nails/Screws || Ace Hardware |align="right"| 10.00 |align="right"| 10.00 |- |colspan="4" align="right"| '''Total Cost''' || 1253.31 |} ==Funding== All funding was through Hunboldt State University's Campus Center for Appropriate Technology (CCAT). ==Final Design== After collecting all of my electrical and mounting materials, testing the wiring, and designing a mount, I began building the system in my front yard. To complete the building process took 5 days of labour, working about 5 hours each day (which includes making lots of trips to gather missing materials/equipment/tools). After collecting materials from the re-sale lumber yard and the junk metal shop, I began constructing the "A-frame" that I designed. I made a design that would fold into itself. My first problem with this was that I was unable to find matching wood widths. My second problem was figuring out where to properly install the hinges so that it would fold and still allow room for supports underneath each piece of wood. <gallery> image:IMG_6506.JPG|Fig 1: Image:IMG_6245_0030.jpg|Fig 1a: </gallery> Once I was able to complete the original design I had in mind, the frame folded very nicely onto itself - and it even has wheels so that I can roll the equipment around! <gallery> image:hinges.JPG|Fig 1b: image:panelguy.JPG|Fig 1c: image:IMG_6512.JPG|Fig 1d: </gallery> After building the "A-frame", I drilled holes into the large piece of plywood and attached all the parts so that they could be easily seen. Once this laborious process was complete, I was able to wire the system. After the wiring, I made diagrams for the entire system so that anyone who was interested could easily understand how the wiring was completed. Each wire is labeled and the entire back part of the plywood is accesible so that viewers can look on both sides - to see the "outer shell" of what the system will look like ontop of a mount, and what is going on behind the scenes with all the wiring - ultimately making the system easy to understand to even those who have no previous background in photovoltaics. (I tested it on a friend!) '''''please include these diagrams on this page'''''--[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] ==Discussion/Conclusion== This was an excellent project to work on! I have gained an invaluable amount of knowledge during this process. This project forced me to think about electricity, building/mounting designs, international communication, and mostly, challenged me to constantly analyse my efforts. The largest challenge for me was learning and comprehending the material on photovoltaics. I have had NO previous experience working with electricity. I will be the first to admit, I did not even know what the word 'photovoltaic' meant when I first became aware of this possibility. When I found out it was solar electricity, I immediately yearned for the opportunity - as I felt it was the best reason for me to learn and grow with a project that would be above and beyond challenging. I felt supported in that I had a class, a professor, and a knowledgable community to ask for help when I would need it. It was the one project I was skeptical of teaching myself. Upon beginning the project, I had enormous frustrations with the material. I would read and read and read. The more I read, the more I felt lost and confused. But persistence pays off eventually, and soon enough - the material sunk in and CLICKED! It was a thrilling moment in my education, as I had to come to grips with it on my own, no matter how much or how little help I was given. It took months before I actually bought the materials, as I wanted to be sure that I knew I was not wrong in my understandings, logic and design. I also wanted to get all the materials in one swoop, so that I would not have to travel far for more than one trip. Once I obtained the materials, I sat alone in a house for four days and tried wiring the parts together. That was my next challenge! I was really concerned about connecting the wires together as I had no idea even how to attach them! In desperation, I had a friend come and show me how to put them together. The system was in place, wires connected - and the moment I plugged in a lamp - tears conjured in my eyes! I had produced a system that was conducting electricity! It was a moment I will never forget. A couple of weekends later I drew up my final mounting design, bought my parts and started sawing away. The mount took about five days to build, including placing all the parts into the mount and wiring the system together on the mount. I must say, it sure is heavy - but it looks magnificent. It is really a treasure to have invested the work I have into this project - as the rewards are insurmountable! ==Links and References== *Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy Network - http://www1.eere.energy.gov/solar/pv_physics.html : Information on how a solar cell works complete with animation. *Komp, Richard J. - Practical Photovoltaics: Electricity from Solar Cells *Solar Energy International. - Photovoltaics: Design and Installation Manual : A very thorough resource for those whom are at a beginner level or are advanced in their knowledge of pv. I would not attempt a project without this book as a companion. [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Photovoltaics]] [[Category:2006]] [[Category:Argentina]] 1339 1457 2006-04-18T07:56:14Z Jessica lotak 13 Direct Current Direct Current 1340 1461 2006-04-18T08:26:30Z Jessica lotak 13 1341 26808 2007-08-28T17:12:17Z Lonny 2 /* Final Comments */ fixed accidental punctuation on the heading line and spelling. [[Image:athometincturesnew.JPG|thumbnail|Homemade Tinctures By Megan Nelson|right]] ==How To Make Homemade Herbal Tinctures== ===What is an Herbal Tincture?=== An Herbal Tincture is a solution of a medicinal substance, like a plant or herb in an alcoholic menstruum. It is also a method of using herbs and plants, extracting their healing properties for the use of treating minor aches and pains, discomforts, ailments, illness, etc. There are different ways to extract from the plants, to utilize their healing properties ranging from fresh plant and dry plant tinctures, hot tea infusion, cold infusion, and decoction. Decoction is an extraction or essence of something, obtained by boiling it down. ===Best time of the month to make tincture === There are certain times in the month, this depending on the [http://mydatapages.com/lunar_cycle.html lunar cycle] of the moon. The new moon is the beginning of the lunar cycle and every 14-15 days the moon cycles from new moon to full moon, (with the waning moon between the new and the full and the waxing moon between full and new.) The best time for preparing a tincture is on the new moon for this is the time when the natural energetic healing properties in the plant are most powerful and predominant within the cyclic phases of the moon. The waxing moon is ===Why Make Homemade Tinctures?=== * Cheaper than buying at retail price * You can tinctures in bulk to share with friends and family, also great as gifts for holidays, birthdays, etc. * Tinctures are more potent than solely using dry herbs * You have the opportunity to experience and mix different herbs that lend to each other for special purposes (i.e., skin disorders, stomach problems, etc.) ===Ingredients Needed=== * Dried or fresh herbs (can be purchased from local herb stores or picked in the wild using a guide book to affirm the type of plant(s). * 80-100 proof alcohol (Vodka or Rum works best) CAUTION- NEVER USE RUBBING ALCOHOL WHEN MAKING HERBAL TINCTURES * Glass jar or dark colored bottles with tight seal. These can be purchased at the hardware store, herb store, or grocery store. They come in a wide range of sizes, ranging from large mason jars, to small jelly jars. The size is dependent on how much you will be making. * Cheese cloth to strain herbs * Labels to label and date the herbal tincture bottle ===Making the Tincture=== Pour 1 part herbs to 5 parts alcohol (less water is making a fresh herb tincture to compensate for the existing water in the fresh cut plant) into a jar, making sure the herbs are completely covered by the alcohol. put a lid on the jar and store in a dark place (cupboard, under a towel, etc.) Shake the jar daily with a love and thanks to the plant(s). At this point continue the ritual of checking in with the herbs and shaking the herbal preparation daily until the full moon. ===Final Stages=== At the time of the Full Moon, go ahead and drain all the existing liquid from the herbal preparation. Do this by draining herbal prepartation through a cheese cloth into a jar, sqeezing the herbs thoroughly, then transporting the tincture into a tincture bottle with a dropper. Your new tincture is now ready to be utilized and enjoyed. ====Dosage==== The dose varies depending on the tincture, but the most common dosage is 1-3 times daily 20-40 drops. Refer to herbalist, books, or inquire at local herb store. ====Final Comments==== Making homemade tinctures are really great for new moon gatherings with fellow sisters, learning and experimenting with different blends and exchanging recipes is great as well. People of all ages can greatly benefit from the experiences of producing such a healing medicine as are herbal tinctures. ====Things to Keep in Mind/Common Errors to Avoid==== '''Please note: Those whom are trying to get pregnant, are pregnant, or are lactating, please check in with an herbalist or physician to insure the tincture you desire to ingest will not cause any harm to yourself or the unborn or born baby.''' ==Links== ;[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9014554997024544606&pr=goog-sl Moonbased Tinture Making Video] [[Category:How tos]] 1342 1468 2006-04-19T18:46:42Z Aleiha 7 testing the first dish. testing the first dish. 1343 1469 2006-04-19T18:49:59Z Aleiha 7 cutting off the old focal rod. cutting off the old focal rod. 1344 1470 2006-04-19T18:52:49Z Aleiha 7 drilling holes in the conduit. drilling holes in the conduit. 1345 1471 2006-04-19T18:54:43Z Aleiha 7 using pedal power! using pedal power! 1346 1472 2006-04-19T18:56:38Z Aleiha 7 the conduit is looking good. the conduit is looking good. 1347 1473 2006-04-19T18:58:33Z Aleiha 7 measuring the angle of the conduit for the hot plate grill attachment. measuring the angle of the conduit for the hot plate grill attachment. 1348 1474 2006-04-19T19:00:52Z Aleiha 7 cutting the new mount pipe to size. cutting the new mount pipe to size. 1349 1475 2006-04-19T19:04:18Z Aleiha 7 more drilling. more drilling. 1350 1476 2006-04-19T19:06:15Z Aleiha 7 laying out the hot plate grill. laying out the hot plate grill. 1351 1477 2006-04-19T19:09:05Z Aleiha 7 measuring the depth so we can calculate the theoretical focus. measuring the depth so we can calculate the theoretical focus. 1352 1490 2006-04-20T17:43:18Z Aleiha 7 parabola. parabola. 1353 1497 2006-04-20T22:43:48Z John Wu 5 Stainless steel welded to the old lawnmower deck for the solar charged lawnmower. Stainless steel welded to the old lawnmower deck for the solar charged lawnmower. 1354 1498 2006-04-20T22:49:33Z John Wu 5 The solar charged lawnmower mower unattached from the body. The solar charged lawnmower mower unattached from the body. 1355 1499 2006-04-20T22:50:34Z John Wu 5 Blade mount attached to the motor for the solar charged lawnmower. Blade mount attached to the motor for the solar charged lawnmower. 1356 1500 2006-04-20T22:59:30Z John Wu 5 Drilling the mount for the solar charged lawnmower. Drilling the mount for the solar charged lawnmower. 1357 1501 2006-04-20T22:59:54Z John Wu 5 Milling for the solar charged lawnmower. Milling for the solar charged lawnmower. 1358 1502 2006-04-20T23:00:35Z John Wu 5 Blade mount of the solar charged lawnmower. Blade mount of the solar charged lawnmower. 1359 1503 2006-04-20T23:01:10Z John Wu 5 Blade of the solar charged lawnmower. Blade of the solar charged lawnmower. 1360 49144 2008-08-11T18:16:48Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)appropriate technology(.*$) +[[appropriate technology]]\1) [[Image:Cs-sfd-Banana-man.jpg|thumb|270px|right|Banana Man]] ==Overview== Food dehydration is both a desirable and [[appropriate technology]] for many reasons which include increasing the shelf-life of food without having to use refrigeration, and reducing product size which can maximize storage space. Also, the process of dehydration is used to enhance foodstuffs directly (i.e. jerky, fruit leather) and indirectly (i.e. spices). The main principle behind food dehydration is simple: to remove an ample quantity, or the majority (depending on the desired product), of water content from food products. Since the water content of foods is high, 80-95% in many fruits/vegetables and 75% or less in meats, the product weighs much less, and its volume is reduced. Also, without water, the food becomes an unfavorable medium for the growth of bacteria or fungi. If dehydrated when ripe, determined from a nutritional standpoint, the maximum quantity of nutrients can be preserved. Food dehydration has traditionally been done by simply laying food out in the sun to dry, climate/weather permitting. With the right food, in the right conditions, there may be little need to improve upon this simple setup. However, there are a handful of reasons people have sought other ways to dehydrate their food. Some practical reasons include avoiding the risk of exposing the food to animals which could take and eat the food, or insects which may want to lay eggs in it. A more scientific reason would be to avoid nutrient degradation that would occur from prolonged exposure to the sunlight. In addition, there exists the potential of wrongly interpreting/predicting the weather and having spoilage from rain or lack of sun. To answers these concerns, the modern food dehydrator is designed to produce hot air and distribute it equally inside a light-less chamber or cabinet. Included in this design is the control of the air's temperature and the duration of hot air distribution. As a result, many modern food dehydrators rely on electricity, rather than the Sun, to create and distribute hot air in a uniform and uninterrupted fashion. ==The Plan== The idea of creating a hybrid, solar food dehydrator, that also adhered to as many of the principles of modern food dehydration as possible sounded excellent to me. The potential of using this old system in new ways can save both power and materials. The original goal was to produce a solar dehydrator that had an upfront cost similar to a conventional dehydrator, but used less industrialized materials in addition to harnessing the sun's energy, which reduces the energy impact associated with conventional food dehydration (discussed later). Could I construct something that would do this with the limited knowledge I have about solar design? [http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/soldehyd.htm These designs on the Internet] gave me confidence that I could... ==Food Dehydration== ===Food Preparation=== While the actual process of dehydrating food is hands-free, some minor preparation is (usually) reccommended. Also, when dehydrating meat, curing is the last step. # Cut into Pieces of Reasonable Thickness: 3/8-1/2" # Acidifying or Adding Sugar to Fruit: In order to preserve vitamin content and avoid browning fruits such as apples, lemon juice, which contains citric acid, may be applied to the fruit's exposed surfaces. However, most fruits don't require this. # Blanching Vegetables: To make re-hydration easier, vegetables that have hard cell structures are blanched so that they are slightly softened. Vegetables that may need this treatment include: beans, broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, celery, and peas. # Curing Meat: In order to kill any potential bacteria left in the meat after dehydration, the meat is cured by placing it in a warm oven (160 F) for 1 hour. ===Electric Food Dehydrator=== To serve as a control and as a reliable counterpart for comparison, a conventional electric food dehydrator was obtained and used. It pros and cons were evaluated from experience. *''Pros:'' **Reliable **Easy to use *''Cons:'' **High Electricity Demand (350W-1000W or more)/High Operating Cost ***Impractically expensive for a small farm to consider using ***Small loads are also unreasonable at this operating cost, for anyone ===Using the Electric Food Dehydrator=== ====Fruits and Veggies==== {| | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Loaded-fruit-trays.jpg|thumb|270px|left|Fully (Fruit) Loaded Dehydrator Trays]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Bananas.jpg|thumb|346px|left|Dehydrated Bananas]] |- | [[Image:Cs-engr305-sfd-apples.jpg|thumb|346px|left|Dehydrated Apples]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Mangoes.jpg|thumb|346px|left|Dehydrated Mangoes]] |- | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Strawberries.jpg|thumb|346px|left|Dehydrated Strawberries]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Veggie-soup-mix.jpg|thumb|346px|left|Dehydrated Veggie Soup Mix]] |} ====Meat==== {| | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Meat-marinade.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Marinating Grass-Fed Organic Beef]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Jerky-on-dehydrator.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Fully (Jerky) Loaded Dehydrator]] |- | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Jerky.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Grass-Fed Organic Beef Jerky]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Jerky-face.jpg|thumb|345px|left|:-P]] |} ==Design Considerations== ===Temperature, Airflow, and Drying Time=== A “low heat of a minimum of 120^o F to a maximum of 185^o F" is the recommended range of air temperature with which most foods are conventionally dehydrated with success. Airflow around the product being dehydrated is required, but does not have to be forced. That is, passive airflow proves not only sufficient, but sometimes better than forced-air flow because it has a tendency to dry the outside much faster than the inside, causing “crusting”. (Wheeler, 15) Different foods have different moisture contents, and therefore different drying times. Also, different appliances or drying systems, because they vary in airflow, temperature, and overall design efficacy, will vary in drying rate. The goal is two fold in supplying the correct air temperature: # Have the temperature low enough such that cooking or crusting of the food is avoided, removing moisture evenly, and mineral/vitamin content is not degraded to a significant extent. # Have the temperature high enough to inactivate the enzymes that lead to fermentation or spoilage. ===Angle of Incidence=== The most important aspect of design in the solar dehydrator was to maximize the energy captured from the Sun, especially given the climate we are in which averages the equivalent of 4 hours of sunlight per day in the Summer here in Arcata, CA. The first principle to adhere to in aiming to achieve that is called angle of incidence. It describes the angle that the Sun's light is penetrating the Earth at. A 90 degree angle is the highest angle of incidence and represents the angle at which the most energy can be captured from the Sun. The solar equator is the great circle line that the Sun penetrates at a 90 degree angle on average topographically, and it passes over the equator twice a year, making it t Because of this receives the most amount of light energy from the Sun. Wishing to emulate this effect, the proper angle to tilt the solar collector is roughly equivalent to your degrees latitude (ignoring seasonal variance). ===Insulation=== The only significant difference between my design and the design it was modeled after is the addition of insulation. The bottom and sides of the solar collector, as well as the sides of the solar food dehydrator were insulated by a 1 cm gap that was stuffed with organic cotton. Since the primary mechanism of the solar food dehydrator was to facilitate the flow of heat through the unit, I wanted heat loss to the outside environment to be at a minimum. ==Materials== {| |- valign="top" | '''Table 1.''' Solar Food Dehydrator (Materials) Cost {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="center" ! Quantity !! Materials !! Source !! Cost $ !! Total: |- | 2 || organic, black construction paper || Solutions || 0.22 || 0.44 |- | 1 || insulation: organic cotton balls || Solutions || 3.95 || 3.95 |- | 1 || plastic wrap || Murphy's || 1.99 || 1.99 |- | 2 || foamcore || Staple's || 7.50 || 15.00 |- | 1 || pack of cheese cloth || Ace Hardware || 1.79 || 1.79 |- | 1 || container of glue || Ace Hardware || 4.99 || 4.99 |- | 1 || box of wire brads || Ace Hardware || 2.95 || 2.95 |- | 1 || roll of tape || Ace Hardware || 1.99 || 1.99 |- | 2 || cardboard boxes || basement || FREE || 0.00 |- | || || || '''Total Cost=''' || 33.10 |} | '''Table 2.''' Electric Food Dehydrator Cost {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="center" ! Quantity !! Materials !! Source !! Cost $ !! Total: |- | 1 || electric food dehydrator, 350W || Ace Hardware || 39.99 || 39.99 |- | || || || '''Total Cost=''' || 39.99 |} |} ==Design Sketches== The design from the Internet was adapted to fit the materials I had. Also depicted is the sketch that inspired the interlocking mechanism that allowed me to insulate the solar collector and solar food dehydrator. {| | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Sketch-dehydrator.jpg|thumb|406px|left|Sketch of Dehydrator Design]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Sketch-materials.jpg|thumb|318px|left|Sketch of Materials Plan]] |- colspan="2" | | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Sketch-interlocking.jpg|thumb|368px|left|Sketch of Interlocking Grooves]] |} ==Construction== Here are some pictures of the actual construction process. All the pieces had to be cut to size, then grooves were cut into each piece as it was added to the other pieces. Wire brads were set in place to connect the pieces, then tape was used to seal all the edges. Finally, finishing touches were added such as adding the plastic wrap to the solar collector and pinning cheese cloth inside the solar food dehydrator. {| | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Cutting-precisely.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Cutting Precisely...]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Pieces.jpg|thumb|370px|left|Pile of Pieces]] |- | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Solar-collector-beginning.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Solar Collector: Base]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Solar-collector-insulation.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Solar Collector: Insulation]] |- | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Solar-collector-f_uncovered.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Solar Collector: Pre-Plastic Wrap]] | [[Image:Cs-sfd-Solar-collector-covering.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Solar Collector: Post-Plastic Wrap]] |} ==Testing== After determining that I would most likely have problems dehydrating fruits and vegetables, I put my dehydrator to use on some items of minute mass: herbs. Pictured is some cilantro drying by the window. The dehydrator has a lid (not pictured) that covers 95% of the top while in operation, leaving 5% open near the back edge to allow for passive air flow. [[Image:Cs-sfd-Dehydrator-cilantro.jpg|thumb|370px|left|Cilantro in the Solar Food Dehydrator]] ==Results== ===Tables=== {| |- valign="top" | '''Table 3.''' Solar Food Dehydrator Efficacy Data {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="left" ! Trial !! % Collector Exposed !! Ambient Temperature (^oF) !! Dehydrator Temperature (^o F) |- | 1 || 85 || 75 || 90 |- | 2 || 50 || 70 || 78 |} |- | '''Table 4.''' Electric Food Dehydrator Drying Times {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="left" ! Food !! Time (hours) |- | apples || 5-9 |- | bananas || 7-12 |- | garlic || 10-14 |- | meat (beef jerky) || 4-15 |} |} ===Other Important Data Gathered=== Electric Food Dehydrator Running Temperature: '''142^o F''' Solar Collector Area: '''160.1 in²''' Solar Food Dehydrator Volume: '''596.1 in³''' Arcata Daily Solar Equivalence: '''4 hours full sun''' ==Mathematical Inquiry== Determining how big the solar collector should have been required extrapolating the collected data. First, I figured out how many degrees the temperature inside the dehydrator would have been raised had 100% of the solar collector been receiving light. This gave a maximum range for the solar collector's area. Then, using the previously determined answers, the total surface area required to achieve a desired temperature of 140^o F (comparable to the electric food dehydrator) was calculated. ---- ''Step 1.'' Determining Maximum Increase in Temperature From Solar Collector: '''<nowiki>[ ( Dehydrator Temperature - Ambient Temperature ) / % Collector Exposed, as decimal ]</nowiki>''' Trial 1 Maximum: '''17.65^o F''' Trial 2 Maximum: '''16.00^o F''', Maximum Range: '''16-17.65^o F''' ---- ''Step 2.'' Determining Surface Area Required to Achieve Desired Temperature with Fixed Dehydrator Volume of 596.1 in³: '''<nowiki>Surface Area * [ ( Desired Temperature - Ambient Temperature ) / Maximum Increase in Temperature From 160.1 in^2 Solar Collector ]</nowiki>''' Surface Area Required to Achieve 140^o F: '''589.6-700.4 in²''' ==Anticipated Drying Times in Arcata, CA== Using 4 hours of full sunlight as the daily solar equivalence, the [[#Results|drying times above]] were recalculated for the solar food dehydrator, both with its current and ideal solar collector sizes. To do this, the ideal size of the solar collector was approximated at being 3 2/3X the size of the original. The calculations are as follows: '''Days in Ideal Solar Food Dehydrator = [ Hours Drying Time / ( Day / Daily Solar Equivalence ) ]''' '''Days in Current Solar Dehydrator = [ Days in Ideal Solar Food Dehydrator / ( 1 / (X Current Surface Area) ) ]''' ---- {| |- valign="top" | '''Table 5.''' Ideal Solar Food Dehydrator Drying Times {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="left" ! Food !! Time (days) |- | apples || 1.25-2.25 |- | bananas || 1.75-3 |- | garlic || 2.5-3.5 |- | meat (beef jerky) || 1-3.75** |} | '''Table 6.''' Current Solar Food Dehydrator Drying Times {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="left" ! Food !! Time (days) |- | apples || 4.58-8.25** |- | bananas || 6.41-11** |- | garlic || 9.17-12.83 |- | meat (beef jerky) || 3.67-13.75** |} |} ''<nowiki>**</nowiki>Note: These drying times are so long, the food is likely to go bad.'' ==Recommendations== {| ! !! Design Aspect !! How to Improve |- | '''Dimensions/Engineering''' || * Solar Collector Surface Area/Dehydrator Volume Ratio: 160.1 in²/596.1 in³, (1:4) * Passive Air Flow * Design From: [http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/soldehyd.htm Solar Food Dehydrator] | * Solar Collector Surface Area/Dehydrator Volume Ratio: 589.6-700.4 in²/596.1 in³, (1:1 or greater) * Active Air Flow (With Solar Powered Fan) * Design From: [http://www.thefoodguys.com/solarfooddryers.htm Solar Food Dryers] |- | '''Materials''' || * Not Durable (Indoor Use Only) * Foamcore/Cardboard, Plastic Wrap | * Durable (Design for Outdoor Use) * Wood/Natural Media, Plexi-glass |- | '''Method''' || * Small Size (~1/4 Size of Conventional Dehydrator Tray) * Dehydrating Food Purchased From the Grocery Store (expensive, available dried already) * Harnessed Springtime Solar Energy | * Larger Size (Equal To, or Greater Than Conventional Dehydrator Capacity) * Dehydrating Food/Excess Produce From a Small Farm or Garden * Ideally Harnessing Summer Solar Energy (Maximum Exposure) |} ==Considerations== '''If you Go Solar...''' One thing I didn't mention already that should be considered should anyone be looking to build their own solar food dehydrator after looking at this page, is how messy it can be, or rather, what kind of mess the food you're dehydrating can leave in your dehydrator. If you haven't dehydrated food before, you might not know this. The point here is that whatever gets dirty, you need to be able to clean. Removable/Reusable or Single-use components should be part of the system (i.e. Single-use cheescloth and plate, or removable wire rack and tray). '''If you Go Electric...''' From what I experienced, the 350W, cheaper, less energy-intensive electric dehydrator I chose to use would be quite sufficient for the average home user. The 1000W model looked nice, and came with a temperature adjustment, but generally accomplishes the same ends through more energy-intensive means. Also, buying a timer for the dehydrator is a good way to take control over your energy usage and drying precision. ==More Pictures== [[Image:Cs-sfd-Food-scraps.jpg|thumb|345px|left|Mmm... Food Scraps!]] [[Image:Cs-sfd-Products-and-results.jpg|thumb|270px|left|Products/More Loaded Trays]] <br style="clear: left"/> ==Resources== ===Books=== * Fodor, Eben V. "The Solar Food Dryer: How to Make and Use Your Own Low-Cost, High Performance, Sun-Powered Food Dehydrator," 2006. New Society Publishers. * Nichols, Naomi. “Food Drying At Home,” 1978. David & Charles (Publishers) Limited. * Wheeler, emme. “Home Food Dehydration, The Hows, What and Why,” 1974. Seattle, Washington. ===Useful Links=== * [http://www.thefarm.org/charities/i4at/surv/soldehyd.htm Solar Food Dehydrator] * [http://www.thefoodguys.com/solarfooddryers.htm Solar Food Dryers] * [http://www.organicdownunder.com/solar_dryer.htm Make a Solar Drier] * [http://www.pathtofreedom.com/pathproject/offthegrid/solarfooddryer.shtml Projects: Drying Foods With the Sun] * [http://www.backwoodshome.com/articles/shaffer58.html Food Drying] * [http://www.epsea.org/dry.html El Paso Solar Energy Association: Solar Food Drying ] * [http://solarcooking.org/dryingreview.htm A Review of Solar Food Drying] * [http://www.eere.energy.gov/buildings/info/documents/pdfs/29236.pdf U.S. Department of Energy. “Passive Solar Design Technology Factsheet,”] ==Credits== {| | Christopher Stadler |- | Humboldt State University |- | cjs36[[Image:atsymbol.png]]humboldt[[Image:dot.png]]edu |} [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Solar dehydrating]] [[Category:2006]] 1361 1511 2006-04-24T00:56:07Z Lonny 2 1 Year after installation. 1 Year after installation. 1362 1512 2006-04-24T01:08:24Z Lonny 2 AEF greywater marsh. Metal screen for filter. AEF greywater marsh. Metal screen for filter. 1363 1513 2006-04-24T01:19:19Z Lonny 2 AEF greywater marsh. One year later, Spring 2006, the plants (cattail and bulrush) have been cutback and are thriving. New shoots are green and growing after the cutting back of the brown and senescing plants from last lear. AEF greywater marsh. One year later, Spring 2006, the plants (cattail and bulrush) have been cutback and are thriving. New shoots are green and growing after the cutting back of the brown and senescing plants from last lear. 1364 1514 2006-04-24T01:20:12Z Lonny 2 AEF greywater marsh. One year later, Spring 2006, the trap is still working, with a couple small problems. AEF greywater marsh. One year later, Spring 2006, the trap is still working, with a couple small problems. 1365 1515 2006-04-24T01:21:29Z Lonny 2 AEF greywater system. One year later, Spring 2006. System is performing well and the tree is enthused. AEF greywater system. One year later, Spring 2006. System is performing well and the tree is enthused. 1366 49003 2008-08-11T16:44:08Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)natural building(.*$) +[[natural building]]\1) [[image:myfeet.jpg|right]] =Introduction= A [[natural building]] project creating a cobb bench in Arcata, Ca in Humboldt County at Bloomfiled Elementary School. = Brief Background Information = ==Preliminary== Cobb construction uses earth, the world's most prevalent building material. The word cobb comes from an old English root meaning a lump or rounded mass (from www.cobcottage.com)"Cob" is also an english term meaning mud building, which uses no forms, no bricks and no wooden structures. Cobb building uses hands and feet to mix a ratio of river sand, clay and straw. This mixture is then formed into cobb balls for uses similiar to sculpting with clay. ==Origins== Earthern construction takes many forms. Some types include adobe, sod, wattle-and-duab, rammed earth and straw-clay. Natural building has existed for over 10,000 years. Every continent has buildings constructed with earthen materials. In the present day, estimates show between thirty-three and fifty percent of the globe's population lives in earthen dwellings. *'''Oregon Cobb''' - The early history of cobb's engish evolution from other techniques of [[natural building]] has many twists and turns ranging from the 15th century to current times. Oregon cobb differs from traditional english cobb as in quality of materials and proportions of the mixture. *'''Modern day materials''' - Natural builders hundreds of years ago had access only to low grade dirt materials with little overall clay content with many foriegn debris. Cobb builders today have clay providers to deliver earth direct to the site for a low cost. Clay providers offer rich materials that make for sturdy structures. Straw centuries ago was a valuable resource used for animal bedding, thatching and other needs. Fiber, the third element of the cobb mixture, is a material today that is inexpensive and in generous proportion. Using the Oregon technique on the Bloomfield bench produced excellent batches of cobb. = Project Description = == Materials == *Sifted river sand *Clay *Straw *Demolished cement (urbanite) *Shovels *Sand Sifters *Gravel *Tarps *Wheel Barrow *4 gallon bucket *Water (garden hose) == Site == Bloomfield Elementary School in Arcata California. We made the bench for the children to enjoy. It is infront of the school green house facing the playground. ==How to Make Cobb== # Sift the sand (an old screen is great for sifting) and go through the clay to insure that your mix will be free of large particles and earth matter (i.e., rocks, trash, etc.) prior to mixing process. # You need to figure out the ratios of clay to sand, we used a ratio of 3 parts clay to 5 parts sand, adding as much straw as needed for tensile strength. # Once you have the ratio go ahead and evenly spread out your sand onto a tarp on the ground. # Break the clay into pieces and add on top of the existing sand on the tarp. # Now for the fun...take off your shoes and dance on the clay and sand until it is thoroughly mixed. # Once the consistency is met, add a layer of straw to the mix and have another dance party on the mix until throughly mixed. # Now roll up a handful of cobb mix into a ball and toss it back and forth between your hands. Use both hands to pull the ball apart checking for tensile strength by testing the resistance of the cobb mixture. # You are looking for a mixture that is very hard to pull apart and, that when it is pulled apart, there is a lot of straw showing,insuring that the straw is what is lending itself to the tensile strength of the mixture. # If needed add more clay it it's too gritty or add more sand if it's to moist and there seems to be mushy qualities to the mix. # Once consistency of mixture is met, you can start to roll mixture into large balls, which is helpful in applying to the bench. # Apply the balls to the structure using your fingertips, never patting of smoothing the cobb mix, allowing layers to be added and joined easier with the application of cobb being "natural"(smoothing and patting of the mixture to the structure should not be done,this will lessen the ability of the cobb's adhesive properties to prior cobb sessions or layers of cobb. Cobb will not conjoin with a smooth surface,it needs an uneven, rough, holey surface to join to.) # Once the structure is made with the cobb then you can go ahead and start to prepare for the clay slip application. # For the clay slip go ahead and add water to a bucket full of clay and let set sit over night. I let it sit for at least 24 hours for the bench. # Apply the milky liquid of the water and clay in the bucket to the bench, making sure the clay slip is applied to the entire structure the bench. # Now you just have to wait for the bench to dry again and once it is dry you can add the linseed oil to the bench. # The linseed oil is used as a seal for the bench. # Apply the linseed oil using a paint brush. We applied two coats to the bench, to insure a good seal. ==Method and Construction== Using the ratio 5 four gallon buckets of river sand to 3 four gallon buckets of clay, these two materials were mixed first using feet on a tarp. When the weather was dry a garden hose was needed to give light water to the clay and the sand for use as a mixing agent. If one is cobbing in the rain, then this watering step is not needed, the sky will provide the moisture. After continous mixing of the clay and sand we tested to make sure the two materials were forming togther. The group used the "taco method" in lifting the sides of the tarp to stir the cobb mix into the center. Performing the lift on each side of the tarp makes mixing many pounds of earth easier. When the sand and clay was properly mixed straw was added to the top surface of the cobb. We applied a thick layering of fiber and then began to mix the cobb with our feet. Mixing cobb with the foot method takes time. Stomping sand and clay is hard work but make certain to take enough time in the mixing step to ensure all the materials have been worked togther. After full blending of the cobb, the completed concoction was formed into softball sized "cobb balls." A cobb line was used from the tarp to the bench where the cobb balls were applied. <gallery> Image:cobbtesting.jpg|Testing different ratios of clay to sand for cobb mixture. Image:diggingfoundation.jpg|Digging into to earth to lay foundation. Image:measuringdepth.jpg|Measuring the depth of hole for foundation. Image:layingurbanite.jpg|Laying the urbanite pieces and gravel of the foundation. Image:finalcobbbench(0).jpg|laying the urbanite for the bench with urbanite and gravel Image:finalcobbbench(1).jpg|Preparing the ingredients to mix the cobb. Image:finalcobbbench(2).jpg|Mixing the clay and sand together. Image:lonnyandgabe.jpg|Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. Image:finalcobbbench(3).jpg|A communal assembly line of cobbers with cobb balls in hand, ready to make a bench.</gallery> ==Conclusion== After multiple cobbing sessions and adding the cobb to the existing structure, our bench was finally becoming a bench. We added cupholders to each arm rest for asthetical purposes with drain holes angled downwards. Once the bench structure was completed and dried, we applied the clay slip, which consists of clay soaked in water for multiple hours, applying this by hand. Once this was completed and dry we then added layers of linseed oil for the sealing of the bench. [[image:finalcobbbench(4).jpg|thumb|Applying the cobb mix to the foundation of the bench.|left]] [[image:finalcobbbench(5).jpg|thumb|After many sessions of cobbing our bench finally looks like a bench.|left]] [[image:finalcobbbench(7).jpg|thumb|Another angle of the bench showing cupholders right before the application of the cobb slip is.|left]] [[image:finalcobbbench(6).jpg|thumb|Applying the linseed oil to the bench.|left]] ==Update July 2007== This bench has been badly weathered. ==Discussion== *'''Wet Sand''' Sifting sand that has recieved recent rain is a tough task. The labor time on sifting will increase greatly. If sand has to be picked up wet it is advantageous to wait and cover the sand a few days letting it dry out before the sifting begins. The amount of time saved when sifting dry sand compared to wet sand will be huge. This makes a big difference in a long session of work where sand sifting could of been done with little strength used in about 20 minutes compared to an hour and a half or more of slow going back breaking work. Look for dry river sand when sifting. *'''Cobb Construction Uses''' Cobb is a wonderful medium for projects around the house. Garden walls are a type of natural building that has many functions. Garden walls can be built large or small, long or short, and provide an earthen partition for one's garden that will add an appropriate zing to a backyard area. A number of ideas are possible for garden walls or any type of cobb construction. Not only is cobb practical but an art form as well. *'''Wick Foundation''' Carefull when using large pieces of urbanite. Damage to the fingers is easy to do and painful. Make sure to build the foundation vertically from the surface 10 inches to a foot or more. When building up out of the ground look for clean cut pieces of urbanite to stack on the corners and/or edges that face outward. This will give the project a cleaner look with a lot of polish. *'''Finding Clay''' Working with the Bloomfield project and other cobb builing projects it has been found that locating clay can be a challenging obstical. Good places to find clay remain to be construction sites but these can be hit or miss. While it was not used for this Bloomfield bench project, clay can be found in mass amounts in wooded areas along creek beds. This clay is super rich and has little debris. An accessible location of this type of wood creek site is not easy to find. *'''Weather''' Building in the rain season slows the cobbing process. If a cobb session is done in the rain, watering the cobb mix most likely will not be needed. If rain is prevelant in the drying stages in bewteen cobb sessions more days should be given to allow the previous cobb to fully dry. In wet weather look to wait a week. If the project can be left uncovered with no rain and warm temperature the drying time will be signifigantly less. *'''Straw''' Straw is added by several handfuls to the mix. The mix must be completly mixed before the straw is added. The straw is added to give tensile strength with fiber. Straw works well when added to the mix. Straw is bought usally at grain or feed stores. It can also be found at your local farmer. Straw is usally in bales when purchased. *'''Maintaince''' Throughout the year linseed oil needs to be applied when needed. Linseed oil is usally applied once a year to prevent further cracking. Linseed oil is purchased at most harware stores. Linseed oil is applied with paintbrushes. Linseed oil sometimes needs two coats to ensure the oil has covered the cobb. =Sources= * [http://www.cobworks.com Cobworks.com] Your guide to build cob and earthhouses * [http://www.networkearth.com Network Productions] Creating and disseminating media to help regenerate the earth * [http://www.cobcottage.com Cob Cottage Company] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Cobb]] [[Category:2006]] 1367 1528 2006-04-24T06:36:41Z Jessica lotak 13 1368 1529 2006-04-24T06:38:10Z Jessica lotak 13 1369 1535 2006-04-24T06:48:18Z Jessica lotak 13 1370 1536 2006-04-24T06:52:39Z Jessica lotak 13 1371 1537 2006-04-24T06:53:27Z Jessica lotak 13 1372 1539 2006-04-24T07:06:48Z Jessica lotak 13 1373 1540 2006-04-24T07:07:36Z Jessica lotak 13 1374 1541 2006-04-24T07:09:59Z Jessica lotak 13 1375 1554 2006-04-24T07:37:16Z Jag61 16 Photo thanks to cobworks.com Photo thanks to cobworks.com 1376 1558 2006-04-24T22:14:23Z ChristopherS 10 1377 1559 2006-04-24T22:16:23Z ChristopherS 10 1378 1560 2006-04-24T22:16:48Z ChristopherS 10 1379 1561 2006-04-24T22:17:12Z ChristopherS 10 1380 1562 2006-04-24T23:08:52Z ChristopherS 10 1381 1563 2006-04-24T23:09:15Z ChristopherS 10 1382 1564 2006-04-24T23:09:43Z ChristopherS 10 1383 1565 2006-04-24T23:10:17Z ChristopherS 10 1384 1566 2006-04-24T23:10:39Z ChristopherS 10 1385 1567 2006-04-24T23:11:06Z ChristopherS 10 1386 1568 2006-04-24T23:11:50Z ChristopherS 10 1387 1569 2006-04-24T23:12:17Z ChristopherS 10 1388 1570 2006-04-24T23:12:45Z ChristopherS 10 1389 1571 2006-04-24T23:12:52Z ChristopherS 10 1390 1572 2006-04-24T23:13:13Z ChristopherS 10 1391 1573 2006-04-24T23:13:42Z ChristopherS 10 1392 1574 2006-04-24T23:14:07Z ChristopherS 10 1393 1575 2006-04-24T23:14:57Z ChristopherS 10 1394 1576 2006-04-24T23:15:29Z ChristopherS 10 1395 1588 2006-04-25T02:56:22Z Aleiha 7 the mount structure. the mount structure. 1396 1589 2006-04-25T02:58:52Z Aleiha 7 final product. final product. 1397 46066 2008-06-29T06:48:24Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-appropriate technology +[[appropriate technology]]) [[Image:Set - 3 004.jpg|thumb]] ===Living Roofs=== All [[living roof]]s encompass a growing medium and vegetation into their design. They also need to encompass a water proof barrier and sometimes a root proof barrier as well. Living roofs can greatly enhance the aesthetics of their surroundings by providing a green space where a traditional roof would not while at the same time providing many environmental benefits. The plants in a living roof can also help reduce the amount of rain water runoff by absorbing the water into the growing medium and roots. Living roof also provide an environment for micro-organisms. They provide extra garden space and help sequester carbon through photosynthesis. A living roof can be built on any scale large or small and can help create a relaxing and natural atmosphere. ===Project Description=== This project encompassed dismantling a disfunctional living roof and building a new one in its place. The project consisted of two parts. The first part was to take down the old living roof which was only a few months old but had many problems. The most critical problem was that the living roof was leaking water. As I was taking it apart I noticed that this living roof had a solid foundation but its flooring was made out of cut redwood branches. Above the redwood branches a layer of burlap and straw was laid to try and create a flat surface. On top of that a water proof layer of plastic was laid which covered the bottom of the roof and went to the top of the siding. The siding was made of strips of bamboo. The bamboo had already begun to rot but the reason this roof was leaking was because the redwood branches were sticking out and inch pasted the bamboo siding. Water was hitting the redwood branches and seeping along them until it hit the burlap and hay. The burlap and hay absorbed the water like a sponge and dripped from its lowest point. The drips were hitting the cob oven below and actually damaging the it. Another problem was that the plants were not growing in the soil because it was almost pure clay. So I replaced the old living roof with a new one that is much stronger, wider, longer, and more protective of the cob oven. This new roof is not as steep as the last one but still has an adequate angle to ensure excess water will drain. The layer of soil is much shallower so the roof won't become as heavy during the rainy season. This living roof is built out of recycled materials and will last much longer then the previous one. This living roof is aesthetically pleasing and was planted in a manner that will assure its vegetation takes to the soil and that the roots from the vegetation hold the soil in place while absorbing water from it. ====Materials==== [[Image:Side veiw of foundation.jpg|thumb|right]] *Note that all the wood and some of the screws used for this project was recycled. That means it was previously used in another structure. Some of the wood came from a dismantled firewood shed and the rest came from CCAT's recycled wood pile. * 3- 7 foot 2 inch 4*4s * 7- 6 foot 4 inch 2*4s (two of which were cut into various sizes to fill in the rafters.) * 2- 7 foot 2 inch 2*6s* 1- 6 foot 4 inch 2*6 * 2- 7 foot 2 inch 1*4 * 1- 6 foot 4 inch 1*4 [[Image:Picture set 2 027.jpg|thumb|right]] * The equivalent of 1 and a half pieces of plywood that were found cut into various dimensions. * 4 quick ties (to secure the structure to the foundation and retaining wall) * Two handfuls of cement (to fill in the cinder blocks in the retaining wall) * An assortment of cement and wood screws * 1- 7 foot by 8.5 foot section of rubber pond liner. * 1- 1 foot by 6 foot 4 inch piece of scrap hog wire left over from an iguana cage * 2 wheel barrels full of gravel * 4 and 1/2 trash cans full of soil * 8 dozen bare root Tri-Star strawberry plants ====Site==== This living roof was built on the patio of Humboldt States Campus Center for Appropriate Technology. It was built directly above a cob oven to protect the cob oven from rain. [http://www.humboldt.edu/~ccat/index.html Click here to view CCAT's home web page] ====Methods==== #I dug a trench on the uphill side of the retaining wall where the living roof will drain. #Dismantled the leaking living roof and found materials for the construction of a new living roof. #I chipped away the rocks that were attached to the top of the retaining wall with a cob mortar to create a flat surface. #I filled in the holes of four cinder bocks of the retaining wall with cement in the spot where I was planning on mounting the roofs support beams. I did this to create a nice flat surface that I could anchor the support beams into. #Placed two 4*4 support beams on top of the existing foundation and a retaining wall. #I carefully measured the distance in-between the support beams to make sure that they were perfectly parallel. #Screwed support beams to the existing foundation and to the cement retaining wall with four metal quick ties. #Screwed 7 rafters perpendicular that connected the support beams. #Filled in-between the rafters with 2*4s. #Fitted and screwed plywood on top of the rafters. #Attached 2*6's standing on their sides for siding except for the lowest end of the roof where a 2*4 was used instead. But this 2*4 was raised of the plywood until it was flush with the 2*6's in order to allow for excess water to drain. #The pond liner was cut a foot wider and placed on the roof so that it totally covered the roof, siding and had enough room to hang into the trench I dug on the low side of the roof. #I used my feet and some soil to make sure that the pond liner was flat against the wood especially in the corners. This ensured that it wouldn’t stretch when I applied the soil on top of it. #Then I screwed down 1*4's over the siding, leaving the pond liner to hang out in-between the siding and 1*4's on top of it. This secured the pond liner in place and made sure that it covered the entire length and width of the living roof including the siding. #Then I got a raiser blade and trimmed the pond liner so that it was flush with the edge of the siding. #Then I carefully cut, folded in half, and stapled a piece of hog wire to the 2*4 on the lower end of the roof. This hog wire filled in the gap in-between the pond liner and the 2*4 so that water could drain out the lower end of the roof but soil could not. #One inch of gravel was placed on the pond liner so that water that seeped below the soil level would drain to the lower end of the roof and out the drainage gap. #Soil was then placed on top gravel. The soil was placed evenly through out the entire roof and was about five inches thick. #I planted 8 dozen ever bearing Tri-Star strawberries evenly through out the soil and watered them in. #I noticed that the roof was slightly bending in the middle so I got another support beam 4*4 and pounded it parallel the two support beams on either side of the roof. This third support was pounded right below the plywood. It was supported just like the other support beams by the existing foundation on the high side and the retaining wall on the low side. But this third support beam was positioned in the center of the roof with the purpose of stopping the roof form bending downward. It was pounded in with a sludge hammer while two people pushed upward on the bottom of the roof. It worked great. This roof is very sturdy. #Finally I filled in the trench on the far side of the retaining wall with enough soil to pin down that edge of the pond liner to the soil on the far side of the retaining wall. This ensures that the living roof will drain on the far side of that wall. ===Final Design and Construction Gallery=== <gallery> Image:View of foundation from -5D.jpg|Support beams and rafters are in place and secure Image:CCAT Living Roof foundat-5A.jpg|Stainless steel quick tie connects the high end of the support beam to the existing foundation Image:CCAT Living Roof foundation.jpg|Quick tie also secures the low end of the support beam to the cement retaining wall Image:Side view of foundation.jpg|West side view before side supports were added Image:Side supports.jpg|Side supports are placed where the rafters connect to support beams Image:Corner view.jpg|Corner view of the flat surface and siding Image:Living Roof set one 016.jpg|Ready for the pond liner Image:Floor and sides with tools.jpg|Some of the tools that were used Image:Cutting the pond liner.jpg|Pond liner was cut to be slightly larger then needed to make sure it would not be to small Image:Fitting the waterproof b-68.jpg|Adding the water proof barrier Image:Picture set 2 020.jpg|Adjusting the pond liner Image:Picture set 2 021.jpg|Making sure that at least six inches of excess pond liner was present on every side in case it moved when the soil was applied Image:Adding soil.jpg|Adding soil to hold down the pond liner Image:Picture set 2 023.jpg|Pond liner is in place. Please note that all of this soil was later removed in order to apply the layer of gravel for better drainage Image:Picture set 2 027.jpg|Screwing down 1*4 boards on top of the pond liner to secure it to the top of the siding Image:Picture set 2 028.jpg|Notice the gap created on the low end of the roof for drainage. This gap was filled with hog wire to stop soil from spilling out Image:Picture set 2 025.jpg|Excess pond liner on the high end of the roof Image:Picture set 2 026.jpg|Excess pond liner on the corner Image:Picture set 2 024.jpg|Trimming the pond liner flush with the outside edge of the siding. Notice that the 1*4 overhangs the siding so that rainwater cannot get in between the pond liner and recycled plywood. Image:Set - 3 002.jpg|View of living roof from CCAT's back door Image:Set - 3 003.jpg|Side view of finished living roof Image:Soil trap.jpg|View of the low end of the living roof. Notice the drainage gap and the hog wire that is keeping the soil from falling out. Also the pond liner is buried in the ground so that the runoff from the living roof won't somehow flow down the wrong side of the retaining wall and come in contact with the cob oven. Image:Set - 3 007.jpg|View of the living roof from above Image:Set - 3 009.jpg|Notice the third support beam giving support to the middle </gallery> ===Errors to Avoid=== [[Image:Set - 3 008.jpg|thumb|right]] #Make sure you leave adequate overhang in your design. #Don't use perlight for drainage. #Don't use clay based soil. ===Commons=== #Pond liner is a great waterproof barrier. #Make sure your foundation can handle the weight of your soil during the rainy season. #Strawberries do great in shallow soil. #Build your foundation stronger then you think it needs to be. #Make sure there are no seems in your waterproof barrier. ===Conclusion=== [[Image:Set - 3 005.jpg|thumb|left]] This living roof is just like any other [[appropriate technology]] project in the sense that it was cheap to build but it took a lot of time to construct. The total cost was just about $80.00 USD, but it took over seventy hours to gather materials and build, much longer than a similar sized traditional roof top. But the reward is what counts. The reward of this living roof is a new addition to CCATs collection of alternative constructions. This living roof also enhances their patio and landscape while providing environmental benefits at the same time. Remember that this living roof was built almost entirely out of recycled materials, thus helping to reduce the amount of virgin resources extracted from the earth. Don't forget the annual harvest of strawberries to fill CCAT's pedal powered blender throughout the summer months. What a sweet addition to [[CCAT|CCAT's]] habitat. [[Category:Living roofs]] [[Category:Engr305]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:2006]] 1398 1595 2006-04-25T03:52:44Z Michael 18 1399 1600 2006-04-25T04:19:10Z Jag61 16 1400 24763 2007-07-05T14:11:13Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/210.13.105.23|210.13.105.23]] ([[User_talk:210.13.105.23|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] Consider using the gallery feature for your excellent pictures. See [[AEF greywater]] for examples == Great Project == Looks great Aleiha. Great job on your project. I know you're still working on your page at this time; I corrected some sp/gram (there are still a few lowercase "i"s near the bottom). I'd love to see some photos of you cooking your food and if you are really ambitious, a max temp recording off your cooker. --[[User:John Wu|John Wu]] 16:46, 4 May 2006 (PDT) == Formatting Comments == Photo arrangement still needs some work. We need more easily accessible information, such as dish diameter. Testing should be about your product... not a dish you thought about using. Tell us about cooking times and temperatures compared to cloud coverage. Keep up the great work. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 04:35, 11 May 2006 (PDT) == Disputed quote from page == <tt>"they would use the power of the light to cut through stone for construction" {{fact}}[NB: this information is suspect: cutting stone with solar energy has never been documented, much less demonstrated; parabolic solar concentrators are good, but not that good]</tt> I have moved this to the talk page until it is verified. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:41, 17 February 2007 (PST) 1401 45257 2008-06-09T01:47:13Z Lonny 2 /* Final Comments */ ==Introduction== [[image:Fin2.jpg|right|frame|Fig 1: Finished Vermicomposting System]] I am very excited to be posting directions for building your very own home [[:category:vermiculture|vermiculture]] bin! The methods employed will produce a bin appropriate for a household of 3-5 people and should last a number of years if constructed properly. There of course are many types of bin designs out there and I wanted the creative opportunity to design my own. In looking for ideas in a gardening magazine, I noticed a pentagon shaped planter for gardens whose shape I really liked. A pentagon is also practical because compost is less likely to get stuck in the corners as often happens in normal square shaped boxes, preventing the organic materials from cycling properly. I decided to make a two-part stackable bin so that using the finished compost would be easier. Once the compost is processed it is easy to take off the top section, dump the compost in the garden, and put it on top to be filled again. The partitioned design is also improves aeration to speed up the composting process. Aeration is also provided by the holes drilled in the sides of the bin. The bottom of each bin section is finished with wire mesh to keep the compost in place. The holes of the wire mesh are large enough to allow worms and microbes to enter the system and speed up decomposition. The top is simple plywood cut to size with a brass handle and L-brackets to keep the lid in place. The bin was lastly finished with natural organic linseed oil as a [[natural sealant|sealer]] for endurance in the elements and general durability. I hope you enjoy! ==Project Description== ===Materials=== *80-2" Di-chromate screws *30-3" Di-chromate screws *12-1" Di-chromate screws *2-bundles of 1"*3"*36" Douglas fir location stakes *hand saw *wood cutter *protractor *measuring tape *hand drill *5 feet of 1.5" mesh chicken wiring *staple gun *staples *chrome handle for lid *3'*3' piece of plywood *wire cutting sheers *fine precision wire cutting sheers *5 L-brackets *Organic natural Linseed Oil ===Steps=== #Cut all wood into identical pieces #Arrange base layer of pentagon #Build up each layer screwing in 2" screw every 3rd layer #Cut rectangular airation holes with hand saw periodically #Every 6th layer screw in 3" screw #Stop when base stackable bin is at 17 layers #Staple wire mesh onto bin surface covering one side #Add 18th layer ontop of wire mesh #Use regular sheers to cut wire to pentagon shape #Use precision sheers to clean up pokey sides #For second stackable bin repeat steps #1-10 #Cut plywood to pentagon shape #Attach chrome handle and L-brackets on each side of pentagon #Seal final product with organic natural Linseed Oil ===Methods=== *Fig 2: I purchased these Douglas Fir stakes from ACE hardware, which the cheapest prices that I could find locally. *Fig 3: All stakes should be cut in half and the ends of all stakes angled at 108 degrees. *Fig 4: Create base of pentagon by connecting five cut wood stakes. Always keep the shorter end of the stakes facing outwards. *Fig 5: Finished pentagon base. *Fig 6: For each successive pentagon layer stagger the stake positions as shown to add support and overall durability. *Fig 7: Screw 2" screws every third staggered layer and screw 3" screws every fifth staggered layer. *Fig 8: Ensure to place 2 screws at each corner. *Fig 9: Side view of staggered pentgon layers. *Fig 10: Finished first section of vermicomposting bin, eighteen layers high. *Fig 11: Use hand drill to drill airation holes, five on each side of bottom section of verm bin. This is actually correcting the error I made of not cutting airation holes with each successive pentagon layer (see common errors to aviod section). *Fig 12: Close up of the edge of the vermicomposting bin. *Fig 13: Screw on wire bottom of finished bin section. *Fig 14: Add one stake layer on top of wire bottom. *Fig 15: Use 2" screws to attach the single stake layer ensuring 2 screws on each corner. *Fig 16: Use both basic wire sheers to cut an even pentagon shape of wire mesh bottom. Use precise wire sheers to clean up pokey sides around the bin. *Fig 17: Finished wire bottom. *Fig 18: Use hand saw to cut rectangular airation holes. I did not have a set procedure about when and where I placed these rectangular airation holes. I simply cut them every couple of layers as needed. *Fig 19: Finished cut rectangular airation holes for the top section of the vermicomposting bin. *Fig 20: Add the chrome handle with 2" dichromate screws to the center of plywood top. I simply used scrap plywood that I recieved for free from a wood pile. Cut plywood into identical pentagon shape using electric wood saw. *Fig 21: Add L-brackets with 1" dichromate screws, one L-bracket for each side of plywood pentagon top. For added security of plywood bin top staying in place(i.e. if you have lots of racoons in your area)you can add nails into L-bracket holes by drilling small holes into bin sides allowing a nail to fit in the hole and secure the top in place. *Fig 22: Finished Bin top. [[Image:Bin2.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 2: Start with uncut Douglas Fir stakes.]] [[Image:Bin4.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 3: Cut all stakes.]] [[Image:Bin6.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 4: Create pentagon base.]] [[Image:Bin8.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 5: Finished pentagon base.]] [[Image:Bin10.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 6: Stagger each successive pentagon layer.]] [[Image:Bin11.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 7: Screw every 3rd layer together.]] [[Image:Bin12.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 8: Ensure to place 2 screws at each corner.]] [[Image:Bin13.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 9: Side view of staggered layers.]] [[Image:Bin14.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 10: Finished first section of verm bin.]] [[Image:Bin28.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 11: Drill circular airation holes in first section.]] [[Image:Bin15.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 12: Close up of edge of bin.]] [[Image:Bin17.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 13: Screw on wire bottom of finished bin section.]] [[Image:Bin18.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 14: Add one stake layer on top of wire bottom.]] [[Image:Bin19.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 15: Attach stake layer with 2 screws on each corner.]] [[Image:Bin24.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 16: Use wire sheers to cut even pentagon shape of wire.]] [[Image:Bin20.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 17: Finished wire bottom.]] [[Image:Bin25.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 18: Use hand saw to cut rectangular airation holes.]] [[Image:Bin26.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 19: Finished airation holes.]] [[Image:Bin29.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 20: Add handle to center of pentagon shaped plywood.]] [[Image:Bin30.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 21: Add L-brackets, one to each side of plywood top.]] [[Image:Bin32.jpg|thumb|left|Fig 22: Finished Bin top.]] <br style="clear: left"/> ==Final Construction== ===Conclusions=== This was a very fun and satisfying project to have worked on throughout the semester. I have an approximate catalogued work time of 32 hours that I spent on the bin. This probably seems like a lot of time but it would have gone much faster if I had a useful webpage such as this to follow step by step. ===Common Errors to Avoid=== #It is good to make sure that each angle of the bin is exactly fit with the layers above and below it. If this rule of thumb is followed, you will have nice smooth surfaces along each face of the pentagon. I didn't realize that I had a poorly framed base initially in which the angles of the pentagon were not lined up. This took much time to fix because I had already screwed many layers together before I realized the error, after which I had to undo a lot of work to fix the angles. # Cut airation holes as you build up each layer of the bin. It was difficult to drill holes in the final project as there were screws everywhere and everytime I hit a screw it caused the drill to dull and kick back. # I should have kept better symmetry with the airation rectangles that I cut in the top bin, merely for improved aesthetic purposes. ===Final Comments=== I am very pleased with the finished product of this design. The [http://www.humboldt.edu/~ccat/ HSU Campus Center for Appropriate Technology] has already begun to put the bin in use. It is a sturdy design that will last them for years to come. I am glad that I could assist them in adding to the rich landscape of sustainable practices at [http://www.humboldt.edu/ Humboldt State University]. [[Category:Engr305]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Vermiculture]] [[Category:Composting]] [[Category:2006]] 1402 50275 2008-09-02T00:53:16Z Lonny 2 /* Campus Office Information */ <!-- ********** RIGHT BlOX ********** --> {|style="border:1px solid #ffa508; background-color: #D0D0FF; margin-left:.1em; margin-top:2px; -moz-border-radius:15px;" align="right" width="240px" !<big><big>Lonny Grafman</big> |- |<center>[[Image:LonnyUserpage.jpg]]</center> |- | ---- |- |I am Lonny, the [[Appropedia:About#People who make Appropedia possible|founder]] of Appropedia, feel free to [[User talk:Lonny|ask me a question]]. |} __TOC__ {{Userboxtop}} {{User photovoltaic}} {{User alternative building}} {{User Service Learning}} {{User watsan}} {{Userboxbottom}} {{-}} == Campus Office Information == <div style="float: left; border: 1px solid darkblue; margin: 1px;"> {| cellspacing="0" style="width: 800px; background-color: pink; text-align: left;" | style="width: 300px; height: 300px; background: darkblue;text-align:center;" rowspan="7"| <googlemap lat="40.874843" lon="-124.078646" zoom="17" width="300" height="300" selector="no" overview="yes" controls="small"> 40.873846, -124.078892, Lonny's Office, HGH 118B, [http://www.humboldt.edu/~ere_dept/undergrad/cat/subcat/maps/hghall.php HGH Faculty Map] 40.873992, -124.079504, Child Development Lab 40.874722, -124.078335, Science D 40.875671, -124.078442, Jenkin's Hall 40.877164, -124.077498, Founder's Hall </googlemap> |'''University:''' [http://www.humboldt.edu/ Humboldt State University] |- |'''Department:''' [http://www.humboldt.edu/~ere_dept/ Environmental Resources Engineering] |- |'''U.S. Phone:''' +1 (707) 826-3649 x1 |- |'''Mexico Phone:''' +52 (628) 104-8407 |- |'''School Email:''' lonny[[Image:atsymbol.png]]humboldt[[Image:dot.png]]edu |- |'''Other Email:''' lonny[[Image:atsymbol.png]]appropedia[[Image:dot.png]]org or just [[special:emailuser/Lonny|click]] (must be logged in) to email me. |- |'''Office Location:''' I am in Harry Griffith Hall 118B on the southwest corner of Harpst and B Streets - see bottom right marker on the interactive google map. |- |''Feel free to leave comments at the [[User_talk:Lonny|discussion]] tab above'' |}</div> <br style="clear: left"/> == Office Schedule == <widget type="googlecalendar" src="appropedia%40gmail.com" width="600" height="500" /> Click [http://cocre8.org here] to see all of my available times. <small>(this is temporary until Google Gadgets Calendar for MediaWiki can show multiple calendars simultaneously)</small> ==Current Classes== [[Engr114 Whole Earth Engineering|Engineering 114: Whole Earth Engineering]] <del>Engineering 210: Solid Mechanics Statics</del> [[Engr215 Introduction to Design|Engineering 215: Introduction to Design]] <del>[[Engr305|Engineering 305: Appropriate Technology]]</del> Engineering 308: Technology and the Environment Engineering 499: Directed Study UD Engr ==Bio== Lonny Grafman is an Instructor of Environmental Resources Engineering and Appropriate Technology at Humboldt State University; the co-founder and instructor in a summer abroad, full immersion, Spanish language and [[appropriate technology]] summer program in Parras, Mexico; and the executive editor of the International Journal for Service Learning in Engineering. In addition, he is the President of Appropedia, the site for collaborative solutions in [[sustainability]], poverty reduction and international development. Lonny seeks ways to increase knowledge of the world through exposure and synthesis and believes that science, culture and language are inextricably linked. He seeks to highlight that connection through service-learning based education while working to improve existing conditions by leveraging local knowledge, materials, wealth and labor through transparency and stakeholder participation. ==Current Activities== ===IJSLE=== International Journal for Service Learning in Engineering :Executive Editor http://www.engr.psu.edu/IJSLE/index.htm ''"a peer-reviewed electronic journal offered free, semi-annually, over the World Wide Web. The Journal welcomes manuscripts based on original work of students and researchers with a specific focus or implication for service learning in engineering, engineering entrepreneurship in service, or related service learning pedagogy."'' ===Appropedia=== This site. :Founder http://www.appropedia.org ''A living library of appropriate technology encouraging: *''Original research'' *''Textbook style topic entries'' *''Personal/organizational pages for collaboration'' *''Project writeups'' *''How-to's'' *''Common working pages for relevant grants, events, calls for assistance, offerings of assistance, etc'' ===Mexico Summer Program=== Parras de la Fuente Summer Program :Co-Founder http://www.humboldt.edu/~parras/ ''A summer immersion program in Spanish and Appropriate Technology.'' ===Pequals.com=== :Administrator http://www.pequals.com ''Some appropriate technology student projects, such as natural plastering, rainwater catchment, brown-field reclamation, the Mobile Renewable Energy Trailer, papermaking, solar power, bike power, composting and chicken farming.'' ===CCAT=== Campus Center for Appropriate Technology :Steering Committee member http://www.humboldt.edu/~ccat ''"The mission of CCAT is to demonstrate appropriate technology in a residential setting, to provide hands-on experiential learning opportunities to Humboldt State University and the surrounding community, to collect and disseminate information about appropriate technology, to examine the ethical and social consequences of technology, and to dispel the myth that living lightly on the earth is difficult or burdensome. CCAT is dedicated to sustainability and seeks to help others live likewise."'' ===Green Wheels=== :Advisory board member http://www.green-wheels.org/ ''"We're making the North Coast friendly for walking, biking and mass transit, to reduce carbon emissions, sprawl, and congestion, and make a stronger economy and improve health."'' ===Humboldt Bay Center for Sustainable Living=== :Board of Directors http://www.ceedweb.org/humboldtbayhostel/summary.html ''"The Developer will construct a lodging facility, the Eureka-Humboldt Bay Hostel and Sustainable Living Center where visitors can experience the ease and beauty of environmentally [[sustainable living]]. The Center will serve as a portal for visitors to access the natural and heritage assets of our region. The Project will be an inspiration to thousands of new visitors to the Northcoast. These visitors will include both those who stay at the Hostel and those who lodge at other establishments but visit the hostel site and grounds. Expenditures on lodging, meals and other goods and services will make a significant contribution to the well being of the local economy.''" ===HEIF=== HSU Energy Independence Fund :Advisory committee http://www.humboldt.edu/~sctf/policy.html ''"The HSU Energy Independence Fund is an innovative project that will reduce the university's exposure to rising utility costs while decreasing our environmental impact. The fund creates a pool of money generated from a student fee of $10 a student per semester that will make HSU energy independent by funding projects that conserve energy and generate electricity from renewable resources. Through these projects, HSU is projected to be meeting all of its electricity needs with renewable energy by 2043. All projects funded by the HEIF will be designed by students and proposed to the HEIF student majority committee for approval. The committee will collaborate with HSU Physical Services to implement the projects. The completed projects will be owned and maintained by HSU. This process provides unique educational opportunities for HSU students, reduces our energy costs, and will enhance our reputation as a pioneer in campus sustainability."'' {{-}} {{Discussion tracker}} [[Category:Parras 2008]] 1403 24789 2007-07-07T21:02:38Z Lonny 2 Reverted Changes Great photos... I look forward to reading your project descriptions, almost as much as I look forward to eating your dehydrated fruits and vegies during finals. Make sure you tell us how (step by step) you built your dehydrator, how it faired on your tests, how you would make it better, etc. Keep up the good work, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:51, 26 April 2006 (PDT) Hey Chris, very cool work!! Give me a call Whitny Verkade COO Excalibur Food Dehydrators/R&D 916-381-4254 ex101 Have a great day!!!! == Reverted Changes == Hi, I reverted the anonymous edits that raised the total to 998.98. Please discuss it here if you think that those changes were correct. Thank you, --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 14:02, 7 July 2007 (PDT) 1404 3409 2006-07-01T13:12:34Z Lonny 2 Talk:Argentina Photovoltaics moved to Talk:Argentina photovoltaic Keep up the good work. Make sure to focus more on your project than on describing PV systems all together (this information is usefull, and I will probably enlist you to help make the PV category page that this project will fit under). A quick note: AC must be used immediately, DC can be stored. Thank you, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:50, 26 April 2006 (PDT) == Suggested stepwise list formatting == Here is a suggestion for your step wise section. Click edit to notice the # for step number, and #* for bullets under that step. Steps: # Who/What/Where/When/Why/How #* Who are you building the project for? #* What is required of the system? #* Where are you building the system? #* When does the system need to be completed? #* Why are they utilizing solar? #* How is it going to be funded? # Communication #* Once you figure out the basics, communicate with your site and let them know you are taking on the project. Ask any questions that might help you in the initial planning process. # Design a Timeline #* Though this will often change during the trial/error process, make a tentative timeline and try to stick to it. Keep a journal and record all progress and include a communication log with your site. Remember that things will always take longer than you think - so get started EARLY! # Buy a Book #* I recommend purchasing "Photovoltaics: Design and Installation Manual" and make it your new best friend. If you are new at photovoltaics, and have never worked with electricity before, you may require many nights of book-bonding in order to make sense of pv systems. Good luck, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 03:05, 26 April 2006 (PDT) == Rotated Image == Hi Jess, I rotated Image:IMG 6512.JPG (your last image) for you. If you need advice on how to rotate images, please ask me. Note that if you are using Max OS 10.4 or later, rotate in preview will not work. Here are some instructions for that situation: ------------------ Right click image Automator Create Workflow Type "rotate" into the automator action search Drag "Rotate Images" below the "Get Specified Finder Items" action on the right (Add a copy image if you want, don't add if you don't want) Pick a rotation Click "Run" To make this really easy (if you want to do it more than once) Start with a completely blank automator script (no action boxes on the right) Add "Get Selected Finder Items" Add "Rotate Images" File->Save As Plug-in Name the plug-in appropriately (rotate, mirror, twist, whatever) Now in the finder right click any image and choose your rotate plug-in from the automator menu. Easy as dragging the mouse! taken from [http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051202045441295 http://www.macosxhints.com/article.php?story=20051202045441295]. ----------------- Good luck, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 16:49, 27 April 2006 (PDT) 1405 1656 2006-04-26T10:11:41Z Lonny 2 A few heading formatting suggestions Good start. Make sure to lay out the description, especially the method section, in an easy to follow way. In addition, please use only photo that you have taken. Puting up other organization's photos may be a copyright violation, plus your photos will be much more applicable to your project. Also, please make sure to include a plan to maintain the structure after you leave. Thank you, I look forward to reading this final project while sitting on your bench. Keep up the great work, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 02:09, 26 April 2006 (PDT) == A few heading formatting suggestions == Consider removing the heading for introduction. This will allow for better word wrapping at the top, and that section is considered the introduction anyways. Please make all main headings level two, i.e. use the double equal signs ==. Then make the subheadings level three, i.e. ===. Thank you, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 03:11, 26 April 2006 (PDT) 1406 2670 2006-06-01T02:05:45Z Aaron 35 Article title: CCAT Vermicomposting Bin Good start. I added some wiki bullets and numbering to aid in your formatting. I was not sure if you remembered how to do this, sorry if you have some plan... just revert to your last edit. We need to move your page to [[Somename Vermicomposting Bin]]. Currently it is under [[Appropedia:User_preferences_help]]. I can do that, if you want. Is this bin in use? Keep up the good work, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 02:21, 26 April 2006 (PDT) == Article title: CCAT Vermicomposting Bin == Hey, to follow the article naming guidelines on the main page of <Organization/Location> <Project Description>, shouldn´t this article be named ¨CCAT Vermicomposting Bin¨? I made several language changes on this article (which I really like, especially the cool pentagonal shape, BTW). I hope the author likes the changes and am curious to hear back! 1407 1672 2006-04-26T19:20:28Z Jessica lotak 13 1408 1682 2006-04-26T21:46:56Z Jessica lotak 13 1409 1683 2006-04-26T22:04:59Z Jessica lotak 13 1410 1684 2006-04-26T22:05:24Z Jessica lotak 13 1411 1685 2006-04-26T22:08:57Z Jessica lotak 13 1412 1686 2006-04-26T22:11:26Z Jessica lotak 13 1413 1687 2006-04-26T22:12:02Z Jessica lotak 13 1414 1688 2006-04-26T22:14:45Z Jessica lotak 13 1415 1689 2006-04-26T22:23:12Z Jessica lotak 13 1416 45118 2008-06-06T02:23:00Z Chriswaterguy 49 /* Construction of filter, greasetrap and settling tank */ sharper cat: [[Category: Greywater treatment]] {{Project_details}} == Introduction == type introduction stuff..... == Site Backround == some info on the site... == Building the Marsh == [[Image:SunnybraeGwHouse.JPG|thumb|left|Front of house]] === Construction of filter, greasetrap and settling tank === description of purpose of filter, greasetrap and settling tank * Purpose of filter * Purpose of [[greasetrap]] ** some other greasetrap comments * settling tank Steps: # this will be the first step #* caveats about the first step # this will be the second step # and the next # and so on [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Greywater treatment]] 1417 1691 2006-04-27T00:34:01Z Lumpkinji 21 This is a photo of the house from the front. The pond is just over the edge of the boardwalk, and the filter is off to the right of the house. This is a photo of the house from the front. The pond is just over the edge of the boardwalk, and the filter is off to the right of the house. 1418 1699 2006-04-27T04:27:08Z ChristopherS 10 1419 1700 2006-04-27T04:27:39Z ChristopherS 10 1420 1701 2006-04-27T04:28:07Z ChristopherS 10 1421 1702 2006-04-27T04:28:31Z ChristopherS 10 1422 1716 2006-04-27T06:12:19Z Jessica lotak 13 1423 1720 2006-04-27T22:55:02Z John Wu 5 Using a fold to shape stainless steel into a holding case to mount the battery on the solar charged lawnmower. Using a fold to shape stainless steel into a holding case to mount the battery on the solar charged lawnmower. 1424 1721 2006-04-27T22:56:13Z John Wu 5 Showing the stainless steel mount for the battery of the solar charged lawnmower. Showing the stainless steel mount for the battery of the solar charged lawnmower. 1425 1722 2006-04-27T22:57:13Z John Wu 5 Finished battery mount for the solar charged lawnmower. Finished battery mount for the solar charged lawnmower. 1426 1723 2006-04-27T22:58:05Z John Wu 5 Planning out placement for the motor and battery mount on the solar charged lawnmower. Planning out placement for the motor and battery mount on the solar charged lawnmower. 1427 1724 2006-04-27T23:12:58Z John Wu 5 Ammeter and voltmeter gauges of the solar charged lawnmower. Ammeter and voltmeter gauges of the solar charged lawnmower. 1428 1725 2006-04-27T23:14:14Z John Wu 5 Electrical schematic of the solar charged lawnmower motor and battery. Electrical schematic of the solar charged lawnmower motor and battery. 1429 1726 2006-04-27T23:15:13Z John Wu 5 Electrical Schematic of the solar panel charging station for the solar charged lawnmower. Electrical Schematic of the solar panel charging station for the solar charged lawnmower. 1430 32551 2008-01-04T19:22:48Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/200.51.208.38|200.51.208.38]] ([[User talk:200.51.208.38|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] All information on this site is provided for informational purposes only. By no means is any information presented herein intended to substitute for the advice which may be provided to you by a professional. These projects are submitted by anybody, often students. At other times, projects are submitted by experts or totally random people. If you try this at home, exercise extreme caution and utilize the advice of others. <cite> No one from this Wiki is responsible for anything you do with the contained information, except yourself. </cite> Toda la información en este sitio se proporciona para los propósitos informativos solamente. Está de ninguna manera cualquier información presentada adjunto prevista para substituir para el consejo que se puede proporcionarle por un profesional. Estos proyectos son sometidos por cualquiera, a menudo estudiantes. En otras veces, los proyectos son sometidos por los expertos o la gente totalmente al azar. Si usted intenta esto en el país, ejercite la precaución extrema y utilice el consejo de otros. <cite>Nadie de este Wiki es responsable cualquier cosa que usted hace con la información contenida, excepto se.</cite> 1431 1745 2006-04-28T22:48:59Z ChristopherS 10 1432 1746 2006-04-28T22:49:22Z ChristopherS 10 1433 35953 2008-02-28T18:17:43Z 137.150.117.6 /* Introduction */ made PV into photovoltaic == Introduction == This project was to install a [[photovoltaic]] (PV) array with sufficient capacity to support all of the household demands, including a electric refrigerator, as well as a wood shop. There is a micro-hydro system on the property as well that delivers power in the winter when the creek is running strongly but can not keep up with demand in the summer when the rains have stopped. For this reason we had to install a power source for the summer months. Briceland gets a lot of sun in the summer, so with the installation of this PV array there is now plenty of power all year-round. == Getting Started == === Array Components === * Panels * Breaker Box * Outback MPPT charge controller * Batteries * Inverter === Array stand === * Post * Array rack === Array Design === The PV array is made up of 8-120 watt modules so at peak power we should get 960 watts. Each panel is 12 volts and 6.82 amps. The panels are set up so that four of them are in series and the two sets of four panels are in parallel. In this way it is a 48 volt, 13.64 amp system. The panels are made by [http://www.evergreensolar.com/ Evergreen Solar] which is one of the only solar panel companies that is not owned by a big oil corporation. The [http://www.evergreensolar.com/technology/index.html String Ribbon technique] Evergreen uses to fabricate their panels consumes half as much silicon as conventional processes. == Construction == The first step was to get the post in the ground and the rack set up. Following is a detailed list of how this was done. # First we had to dig a hole deep enough to support the stand. Due to the size of the array, this hole had to be five feet deep. We dug the hole with Daniel's tractor, which is run off bio-diesel. (See Fig 1 and 2) # In the bottom of the hole we laid 6 inches of gravel. This gravel is to allow for the drainage of any water that might find its way into the post. # Once the gravel was down we put in the concrete form. This consisted of a ½ inch thick cardboard tube that is 16 inches in diameter. (see Fig 4) # After the form was in we centered the stand with in it. The stand is a steel ½ inch, 16 inch diameter post. The post was to heavy for us to lift and move around once it was in the hole so we tied it to the tractor to lifted it up while I centered it and then lowered it back down. (see Fig 5 and 6) # When the stand was in place it was time to pour the concrete. We used a mixer which was run off the electricity from a micro-hydro system we installed in the fall. This made the job go a lot quicker then if we had to mix all the bags by hand. In total we used 10 bags of quick-crete. When done it is important to make sure that the concrete is not level but raised up some. This is because it will shrink and settle down as it dries. (see Fig 7 and 8) <gallery> Image:BricelandHole.jpg|Fig 1: Digging hole. Image:Digging hole -2.jpg|Fig 2: Image:Checking hole depth.jpg|Fig 3: Checking the hole depth. Image:Concrete Form.jpg|Fig 4: Concrete form. Image:Setting the stand.jpg|Fig 5: Setting the stand. Image:The stand.jpg|Fig 6: The stand. Image:Pouring concrete.jpg|Fig 7: Pouring concrete. Image:Finishing the concrete.jpg|Fig 8: Finishing the concrete. </gallery> While the concrete was setting up we built the rack which came ready to assemble and was very easy to put together. It consists of a central bracket that sits on top of the post that acts as a pivot point, and lateral bars that the panels connect to. Once it was assembled on the ground we lifted it up and set it on top of the post. [[Image:Rack 1.jpg|thumb|left]] [[Image:Rack 2.jpg|thumb|left]] [[Image:Rack Finished.jpg|thumb|left]] <br style="clear: left"/> == Panel Setup == Once the rack was together it was time to install the panels. Both of these were designed to fit together very easily. Each panel attached to the rack in four places with a bracket that slid into one of the cross beams and then was bolted to the panel. These sliders allow the panels to be moved around once they are on the rack. As we put them on we tried to keep the weight balanced so we could still flip the rack to reach both sides. <gallery> Image:2 panels on.jpg|Two panels on. Image:4 panels on.jpg|Four panels on. Image:5 panels on.jpg|Five panels on. Image:One left -2.jpg|One panel left. Image:One left.jpg|One left. Image:Finished array.jpg|All panles up. </gallery> == Wiring == === Panel Wiring === Four of the panels we wired in series with each other and then the two sets of four panels we wired in parallel. These were ran through a fuse box before going on to the charge controller. [[Image:Bottom of panels.jpg|250px|Panel Wiring]] [[Image:Breaker box -2.jpg|250px| Breaker Box]] [[Image:Wireing 2.jpg|250px| Wiring of Breaker Box]] [[Image:Breaker box.jpg|250px]] <br style="clear: left"/> === Charge Controller, Batteries, and Inverter === After the charge controller there is another fuse box before the batteries. Right now there are only two L-16 batteries in place which are too few for the power input from the array. Eventually we will have the charge controller hooked up to eight L-16 batteries. From the batteries the power goes two places. The first is to the DC circuits in the house and the second is to the inverter, each of these having individual fuses. <gallery> Image:PV array 056.jpg|The old battiers and inverter. Image:PV array 063.jpg|Fuses to charge controller. Image:PV array 062.jpg|Charge controller wiring. Image:PV array 061.jpg|Charge controller reading. Image:PV array 060.jpg|Charge Controller. </gallery> == Power == This we will know when we are able to hook the whole system up. == The End == [[Image:BricelandFinal.jpg]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Photovoltaics]] [[Category:2006]] 1434 1761 2006-04-29T00:41:00Z Soysinlimites 23 Digging the hole for the Briceland PV system. April 2006. Digging the hole for the Briceland PV system. April 2006. 1435 1775 2006-04-29T02:38:16Z Soysinlimites 23 1436 1776 2006-04-29T02:41:12Z Soysinlimites 23 1437 1777 2006-04-29T02:42:35Z Soysinlimites 23 1438 1778 2006-04-29T02:44:09Z Soysinlimites 23 1439 1779 2006-04-29T02:45:35Z Soysinlimites 23 1440 1780 2006-04-29T02:46:55Z Soysinlimites 23 1441 1782 2006-04-29T02:47:48Z Soysinlimites 23 1442 1797 2006-04-29T23:39:12Z Brad Thompson 3 1443 1798 2006-04-30T21:53:28Z Soysinlimites 23 1444 1799 2006-04-30T21:55:05Z Soysinlimites 23 1445 1800 2006-04-30T21:56:36Z Soysinlimites 23 1446 1801 2006-04-30T21:58:12Z Soysinlimites 23 1447 1802 2006-04-30T21:59:41Z Soysinlimites 23 1448 1803 2006-04-30T22:01:57Z Soysinlimites 23 1449 1804 2006-04-30T22:03:49Z Soysinlimites 23 1450 1809 2006-04-30T22:47:13Z Soysinlimites 23 1451 1810 2006-04-30T22:49:48Z Soysinlimites 23 1452 1811 2006-04-30T22:49:58Z Soysinlimites 23 1453 28511 2007-10-05T06:47:15Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/72.249.45.76|72.249.45.76]] ([[User_talk:72.249.45.76|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Ymile|Ymile]] 1454 1824 2006-05-02T02:32:04Z Megan 15 1455 1827 2006-05-02T03:15:11Z Megan 15 1456 1832 2006-05-02T03:31:43Z Megan 15 1457 49306 2008-08-13T06:36:48Z 134.115.88.192 /* References */ {{wikipedia}} Papermaking is an ancient art and science. Some new research is rejuvenating the art and science of hand made paper (HMP) to a new and exciting level of quality. Leslie Westerlund (BSc.MEnvSc) is also researching a new smooth/textured LHMP that can go through photocopy and printing machines. The research is carried out at the International Environmental Technology Centre IETC: Murdoch, a West Australian University near the city of Perth. Australia. It is part of his PhD project on Technology Transfer to promote eco-friendly craft cottage industry to developing countries. Email <L.Westerlund@murdoch.edu.au>: [http://www.etc.murdoch.edu.au/ Murdoch University - Environmental Technology Centre (ETC)] - ''environmental technology for sustainable development.'' This page will be more developed soon. You will see how to: Make eco-friendly Leslie's Hand Made Paper (LHMP) # Sort the paper into colours and grades # Soak 4kg in a bucket of hot water for a day to soften it # Pulp it in Leslie's 200 litre hydropuler 50:1 water: paper wt ratio: # Dilute 99:1 into Leslie's VAT; Screan through with special moulds and deckles (LAM) # Transfer via Leslie's special new couching LTC # Rransfer to L's stacking system (LSR); transfer to L's pulping Press (LPP); then hang to air dry # Rhen peel; then dry press; then grade; then cut to sizes. Save energy, water, inks, chemicals * Energy is saved by using solar energy: used to heat the water to make the pulp; solar drying is used to air dry the paper. * Water is recycled many times to make more pulp and save any residue chemicals for reuse. * Colours from inks are reused to make a pastel shade of that colour - mixed with white paper. * Chemicals and fillers from the original paper are repulped and used for bonding and filling. * Trees/forests/ecosystems can be saved by using recycled paper, lint, cotton, fibres to make paper. * Create beautiful books/poems/posters on the paper;: The paper is about 150 gsm (grams per square metre) and will go through most flat feed printing systems. The surface has one super-smooth side for high quality printing. Leslie has also edited and published a dictionary on papermaking and handmade papermaking. Leslie Westerlund's Dictionary of Papermaking (2005). ISBN 1876141-247. Australia. ==Links== ;http://www.pequals.com/at/papermaking/ :Alyssa Grassi examples her papermaking abilities and other ways of teaching science through art, such as a home made paper press, solar powered paper pulper, and a styrofoam-concrete oven. ;http://flickr.com/photos/bzedan/sets/967347/ :Great photo tutorial on making paper. http://members.tripod.com/leslie_westerlund/id14.html : great example of the Fijian papermaking project at Wainimakutu Village [[Category:How tos]] [[Category:Material reuse]] ==References== "How to Make a Papermaking Couching L'Transfer Curve" by Leslie.C.Westerlund. Nov 2007:ISBN 1876141-492 "How to Make Smooth Papermaking Technology" by Leslie.C.Westerlund. May 2008. ISBN 1876141-557 "How to Make a Papermaking Press" by Leslie.C.Westerlund. Feb2007. ISBN 1876141-45X "How to Make Papermaking Aluminium Moulds and Deckles" by Leslie.C.Westerlund. Oct2007. ISBN 1876141-468 "How to Make a Papermaking Vat" by Leslie.C.Westerlund. Aug 2008. ISBN 1876141-506; Westerlund Eco Services, Rockingham W.Australia. ==Conference Papers== Westerlund L.C., Ho G., Anda M., Wood D., Koshy K.C., (2008) Case Study of Technology Transfer to a Fiji Rural Village using a Improved ‘Sustainable Turnkey Approach’. Technologies and Strategic Management of Sustainable Biosystems; First International Conference. Murdoch University. W.Australia.6-9 July 2008. ABSTRACT Historically a number of approaches to technology transfer to ‘less developed countries’ (LDCs) have been trialled and found to be limited. A classic example is the ‘turnkey approach’ which appears to answer an LDC’s hope to gain better technologies and skills and yet has several flaws. It is not designed for local industry, conditions and production systems; it is too expensive; too technical; too prone to breakdowns; too tied up with intellectual property and patent issues; too remote for technical support; and finally not sensitive to local culture and heritage. Thus after a short time when something goes wrong with the equipment, it is not serviced or fixed properly and production stops and the local village goes back to their old ways of doing things. A modified appropriate ‘sustainable turnkey approach’ (STA) was developed, trialled and used to introduce new cottage papermaking technology to an existing papermaking village in a remote highland part of Fiji, a LDC. This part of the new research explored making a high technology piece of equipment in Suva, the nearest city to the Wainimakutu Village. The intellectual property was given under ‘creative commons’ by the inventor. The STA has empowered a local engineering business and the engineering department of the local university to be able to understand and transfer the ‘hardware’ (equipment) and ‘software’ (skills) of these technologies and actually make the machines. The business/university project empowered them to redesign it, to improve it, to trial it, to test it, and then network with a village to complete the ideals of using the ‘best available technology’ that is also sustainable, eco-friendly, appropriate and financially viable. The STA has proved a far superior process. When something goes wrong with the machine it can be adjusted, fixed or modified to work: first in the village; second, with local industry help; third with local university help; and fourth with contacting the inventor for advice and networking with all stakeholders. The village employment project does not stop and wait in limbo for weeks/months/years until expensive international experts can diagnose the faults, import the parts, manufacture components and fix the problems to get the machine working. The action research process, with its emphasis on inductively produced local knowledge, informs and supports this STA to pioneer better ways of technology transfer to assist developing countries. This was evaluated by a new objective survey using a new points system of 100 points to imply a 100% transfer of skills per phase to empower many stakeholders with the knowledge and wisdom of making papermaking equipment and processes. The use of ‘creative commons’ was trialled and proved successful to transfer the ‘best available intellectual property’ to a LDC. The technology transfer was successful using appropriate technologies, local skills and labour, being economically viable, sustainable using waste paper and local fibres, and finally complementary to cultural values of the native Fijian papermaking village. 1459 4202 2006-07-23T04:42:43Z Chriswaterguy 49 make subcat border="2" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="3" rules="all" style="margin:1em 1em 1em 0; border:solid 1px #AAAAAA; border-collapse:collapse; background-color:#F9F9F9; font-size:90%; empty-cells:show;" <noinclude> ---- This template can be used to make more attractive tables such as those at [[Help:Contents]]. [[Category:Format templates]] </noinclude> 1460 4233 2006-07-24T01:24:38Z Lonny 2 attempting to fix this template, as per mediawiki template... but if this works I am not sure what was up with the noinclude from the last version... maybe the extra line break did something. bgcolor="#8DA7D6" <noinclude>[[Category:Format templates]]</noinclude> 1461 1850 2006-05-03T06:14:26Z Lonny 2 map to the marsh map to the marsh 1462 1853 2006-05-04T02:31:49Z Brad Thompson 3 1463 1855 2006-05-04T02:49:15Z Brad Thompson 3 1464 1857 2006-05-04T03:30:50Z Brad Thompson 3 1465 1858 2006-05-04T03:35:48Z Brad Thompson 3 1466 1860 2006-05-04T18:52:35Z ChristopherS 10 1467 1861 2006-05-04T18:53:20Z ChristopherS 10 1468 1862 2006-05-04T18:53:45Z ChristopherS 10 1469 1864 2006-05-04T19:32:22Z Brad Thompson 3 1470 1866 2006-05-04T19:39:19Z Brad Thompson 3 1471 1867 2006-05-04T19:42:36Z Brad Thompson 3 1472 1895 2006-05-04T22:15:26Z Michael 18 securing foundation securing foundation 1473 1902 2006-05-04T22:45:07Z Michael 18 foundation # 2 foundation # 2 1474 1916 2006-05-04T23:44:51Z Ymile 20 Fig.1 Finished Vermicomposting Bin Fig.1 Finished Vermicomposting Bin 1475 1927 2006-05-05T00:01:03Z Ymile 20 Fig 3: Cut stakes in half and angle the ends to fit in penatgon shape. Fig 3: Cut stakes in half and angle the ends to fit in penatgon shape. 1476 1938 2006-05-05T00:25:05Z Michael 18 1477 1939 2006-05-05T00:26:12Z Michael 18 1478 1941 2006-05-05T00:28:17Z Michael 18 1479 1943 2006-05-05T00:29:25Z Michael 18 1480 1945 2006-05-05T00:31:08Z Michael 18 1481 1948 2006-05-05T00:34:52Z Michael 18 1482 1952 2006-05-05T00:38:44Z Michael 18 1483 1954 2006-05-05T00:39:29Z Michael 18 1484 3380 2006-07-01T07:41:04Z ATSysop 1 Talk:Homemade Herbal Tinctures moved to Talk:Moonbased homemade herbal tinctures Excellent warnings to herbalists. You may consider creating a section for materials needed separate from ingredients, and perhaps under ingredients list common herbs you have used. I think it might be beneficial for readers to also have a references/citation or account of personal history section (where you learned what you know). --[[User:John Wu|John Wu]] 17:40, 4 May 2006 (PDT) 1485 1956 2006-05-05T00:40:25Z Michael 18 1486 1957 2006-05-05T00:41:08Z Michael 18 1487 1960 2006-05-05T00:42:03Z Michael 18 1488 1962 2006-05-05T00:42:37Z Michael 18 1489 1963 2006-05-05T00:43:20Z Michael 18 1490 1964 2006-05-05T00:43:47Z Michael 18 1491 1966 2006-05-05T00:44:34Z Michael 18 1492 1968 2006-05-05T00:45:14Z Michael 18 1493 1969 2006-05-05T00:45:44Z Michael 18 1494 1970 2006-05-05T00:46:29Z Michael 18 1495 1971 2006-05-05T00:47:20Z Michael 18 1496 1972 2006-05-05T00:48:11Z Michael 18 1497 1973 2006-05-05T00:48:52Z Michael 18 1498 1974 2006-05-05T00:49:29Z Michael 18 1499 1975 2006-05-05T00:49:58Z Michael 18 1500 1976 2006-05-05T00:50:45Z Michael 18 1501 1978 2006-05-05T00:51:13Z Michael 18 1502 1979 2006-05-05T00:51:48Z Michael 18 1503 2000 2006-05-05T04:01:57Z Ymile 20 1504 2005 2006-05-05T19:28:52Z Jessica lotak 13 1505 2006 2006-05-05T19:30:00Z Jessica lotak 13 1506 2025 2006-05-06T04:52:09Z Brad Thompson 3 1507 2026 2006-05-06T05:23:56Z Brad Thompson 3 1508 2027 2006-05-06T05:25:45Z Brad Thompson 3 1509 2028 2006-05-06T06:49:59Z Brad Thompson 3 1510 2029 2006-05-06T07:08:06Z Brad Thompson 3 1511 2030 2006-05-06T07:12:51Z Brad Thompson 3 1512 2031 2006-05-06T07:33:03Z Brad Thompson 3 1513 2033 2006-05-06T08:15:39Z Brad Thompson 3 1514 2034 2006-05-06T08:34:24Z Brad Thompson 3 1515 2035 2006-05-06T08:36:58Z Brad Thompson 3 1516 6467 2006-10-16T02:36:33Z Lonny 2 [[Talk:CCAT's Living Roof]] moved to [[Talk:CCAT's living roof]]: lower case naming convention ==Note on formatting== For automatic numbering, use the # sign instead of typing in numbers. For example: <nowiki>#</nowiki> I dug a trench on the uphill side of the retaining wall where the living roof will drain. <br> <nowiki>#</nowiki> Dismanteled the leaking living roof and found materials for the construction of a new living roof. <br> <nowiki>#</nowiki> I chipped away the cobbed in rocks attached to the top of the retaining wall to create a flat surface. <br> <nowiki>#</nowiki> I filled in the holes of the top cinder bocks of the retaining wall with cement. Where I was planning on mounting the roofs support beams. <br> <nowiki>#</nowiki> Placed two 4*4 support beams ontop of the existing foundation and a retaining wall. <br> <nowiki>#</nowiki> Screwed support beams to the existing foundation and to the cement retaining wall with four metal quick ties. <br> reads like: # I dug a trench on the uphill side of the retaining wall where the living roof will drain. # Dismanteled the leaking living roof and found materials for the construction of a new living roof. # I chipped away the cobbed in rocks attached to the top of the retaining wall to create a flat surface. # I filled in the holes of the top cinder bocks of the retaining wall with cement. Where I was planning on mounting the roofs support beams. # Placed two 4*4 support beams ontop of the existing foundation and a retaining wall. # Screwed support beams to the existing foundation and to the cement retaining wall with four metal quick ties. Keep up the good work, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 10:54, 6 May 2006 (PDT) 1517 2059 2006-05-07T04:26:54Z Ymile 20 1518 2060 2006-05-07T04:27:14Z Ymile 20 1519 2061 2006-05-07T04:27:36Z Ymile 20 1520 2062 2006-05-07T04:28:03Z Ymile 20 1521 2063 2006-05-07T05:17:47Z Ymile 20 1522 28607 2007-10-06T20:57:26Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/62.146.82.195|62.146.82.195]] ([[User_talk:62.146.82.195|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Ymile|Ymile]] 1523 2065 2006-05-07T05:18:24Z Ymile 20 1524 2066 2006-05-07T05:18:42Z Ymile 20 1525 2067 2006-05-07T05:27:02Z Ymile 20 1526 2068 2006-05-07T05:27:20Z Ymile 20 1527 2069 2006-05-07T05:27:37Z Ymile 20 1528 2070 2006-05-07T05:27:55Z Ymile 20 1529 2071 2006-05-07T05:28:18Z Ymile 20 1530 2072 2006-05-07T05:28:35Z Ymile 20 1531 2073 2006-05-07T05:28:53Z Ymile 20 1532 2074 2006-05-07T05:29:10Z Ymile 20 1533 2075 2006-05-07T05:29:37Z Ymile 20 1534 2076 2006-05-07T05:29:52Z Ymile 20 1535 2077 2006-05-07T05:31:07Z Ymile 20 1536 4817 2006-08-09T05:56:49Z Chriswaterguy 49 [[Environmental art]] moved to [[User:Arcatadays/Environmental art]]: no content, move from mainspace == Introduction == Environmental art is ....... ==Styles== There are three main styles ... === Biocentrism === ==Examples== [[Earthen Oven]] 1537 50257 2008-09-01T05:14:44Z Delldot 1192 [[Vegie oil conversion]] moved to [[Vegetable oil as fuel]]: woohoo, I'm autoconfirmed! This is a more intuitive name I think, and more general (more specific articles to follow soon). Diesel engines can be modified to run on straight vegetable oil or waste vegetable oil (used cooking oil). Problems can occur with some engine types when operated for extended periods at idle or low load as vegetable oil does not burn well in these conditions. Suitable engine modifications along with attention to fuel quality, ambient temperatures and operating regime generally avoids these issues. Quality [[biodiesel]], which is typically a modified vegetable oil, does not have these effects to the same degree, but some engines, oil types, and ambient conditions can cause similar problems. ==Why== Biofuels are not made from petroleum; not purchasing petroleum products allows you to avoid supporting business practices such as oil drilling that are harmful to the environment and human rights. Waste cooking oil is discarded by restaurants and other businesses and can be obtained for free or very cheap. This allows you to recycle something that would otherwise go to waste. Since the vegetable oil is not produced in respond to an economic demand for fuel, using it is [[Wikipedia:carbon neutral|carbon neutral]]. ==History== ==Theory== Vegetable oil is too thick to burn well in the engine unless it is hot. To deal with this problem, some vehicles use a two-tank system: one tank for biodiesel or petrodiesel, and one for vegetable oil. The engine is started on diesel and run until it heats up, then the driver switches to the vegetable oil tank. When done driving, the vehicle must be switched back to the diesel tank in order to get the vegetable oil out of the fuel lines; otherwise, the lines will still be full of vegetable oil when the car is next started, and it will be difficult to start. Oil that is not hot enough when it enters the engine will not burn properly and will cause buildup that will damage the engine. [[Waste vegetable oil]] must be filtered and water must be removed before it can be used as fuel, or it will damage the engine. ==Process== Modifications are done on a diesel vehicle; if the vehicle is not already diesel, it has to be converted to run on diesel before it can run on vegetable oil. ===Two-tank system=== Processes for converting to vegetable oil vary. One process is outlined below. In the two-tank system, the following modifications are made: *A second gas tank is added; this can be a purchased gas tank or another receptacle that can hold fuel, such as a bucket. *The new tank is installed somewhere on the vehicle, e.g. in the trunk. *A valve is installed that allows the driver to switch from one tank to the other. It uses electricity from the vehicle's battery, and a switch is installed in the vehicle that the driver can switch. *An extra fuel filter is installed in the vehicle to filter particles and water out of the vegetable oil. Hoses can be spliced from the coolant system and run to this filter; this brings hot coolant to the filter and heats it up, in order to get the oil hotter. *Fuel lines are run from the tank that will hold diesel to the valve that allows switching between tanks. *Fuel lines are run from the tank that will hold vegetable oil to the new filter, and from there to the valve that allows switching between tanks. *A heater is installed near the fuel injectors to ensure that oil is as hot as possible before it enters the engine. *Fuel lines are run from the valve to the vehicle's fuel pump, then to the heater, then to the fuel injectors. *Return lines are added that return unused diesel to the diesel tank. *A buzzer is installed that sounds when the vehicle is turned off and the tank is still set to vegetable oil. This warns the driver that they forgot to purge vegetable oil from the fuel lines and the vehicle may not start next time. When this happens, the driver turns the vehicle back on (possible since the engine is still hot) and switches to the diesel tank and runs it long enough to replace the oil in the fuel lines with diesel. ==Links== *[[Biogas and liquid biofuels (original)]] *[[Making Biodiesel]] *[[Wikipedia:Straight vegetable oil]] *[http://wiki.obed.org.uk/index.php?title=Theory Pure plant oil fuel technology at the Open Biofuel Engine Development (OBED)wiki] - Information about running vegetable oils in Diesel engines *[http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/347104314 10 steps to converting to wvo...the basic process] [[Category:Transport]] [[Category:Biofuel]] 1538 49004 2008-08-11T16:44:28Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)natural building(.*$) +[[natural building]]\1) ==interwiki linking== [[Wikipedia:Main Page]] ==Embeding or Linking Video== <embed style="width:400px; height:326px;" id="VideoPlayback" align="middle" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvp.video.google.com%2Fvideodownload%3Fversion%3D0%26secureurl%3DwAAAAG7ggqAHSiJjpW0D3w4aYTVLvl9qT_bGyh5ICsokA4j6LdO1NJwFTEkq5MGleFSQIe3SLnDRWKCBg2bfH0ZFy3zN88r43OHHWNl4Xomjvve6lHWfjQ_1bmnp9OzITrNOnHJ0x91nPcsIZ4XALxLFd1b9M5qyOmucmyPE86a4zZn-oywicFXuLwdP_WBuNolSIoQbQYjmmx9lrkAFK7SaRKsUG2CyWscdVHKlVLyuWJZHUIyiS-upOyIIA0LGmpfL5Me3zX-YXFHXwQQZadsw0A0%26sigh%3Df5RKJayke66MJ8vVZ91C3zcNvKY%26begin%3D0%26len%3D254499%26docid%3D9014554997024544606&thumbnailUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.google.com%2FThumbnailServer%3Fapp%3Dvss%26contentid%3D7a4a8afb84067384%26second%3D5%26itag%3Dw320%26urlcreated%3D1147506176%26sigh%3DuNj3kgo_bQb7S4nUWqZuEmsrZdY&playerId=9014554997024544606" allowScriptAccess="sameDomain" quality="best" bgcolor="#ffffff" scale="noScale" wmode="window" salign="TL" FlashVars="playerMode=embedded"> </embed> http://en.wikipedia.org/upload/b/bc/Wiki.png http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=9014554997024544606 ==References== ===Test of ref feature=== This page itself uses footnotes, such as the one at the end of this sentence.<ref>This footnote is used as an example in the "How to use" section.</ref> If you view the Wikicode of this page by clicking "Edit this page", you can see a working example of footnotes. This does not seem to be working, look into cite.php ===Notes=== <references/> ==Experiments to get text next to picture== ===wiki tables=== {| border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="none" | [[Image:IMG_6743.JPG|250px|thumb|Click for project -> [[Argentina PC]]]] || Building a small photovoltaic system for a [[natural building]]/permaculture institute in Central Argentina. |- | [[Image:Set - 3 003.jpg|250px|thumb|Click for project -> [[CCAT's Living Roof]]]] || Building a living roof for CCAT's Earthen Oven. |- | [[Image:Coop.jpg|250px|thumb|Click for project -> [[Tire Shingles]]]] || Roof shingles made from old racing slicks. |- | [[Image:BricelandFinal.jpg|250px|thumb|Click for project -> [[Briceland PV]]]] || 960W photovoltaic installation in Briceland, CA. |} ===html tables=== <table> <tr> <td>[[Image:IMG_6743.JPG|250px|thumb|Click for project -> [[Argentina PC]]]] </td> <td>Building a small photovoltaic system for a [[natural building]]/permaculture institute in Central Argentina. </td> <tr> <td>[[Image:Set - 3 003.jpg|250px|thumb|Click for project -> [[CCAT's Living Roof]]]] </td> <td>Building a living roof for CCAT's Earthen Oven. </td> </tr> </table> ===using the space at the beginning of line=== [[Image:IMG_6743.JPG|250px]] [[Argentina Photovoltaics]]: Building a small photovoltaic system for a natural building/permaculture institute in Central Argentina. [[Image:Set - 3 003.jpg|250px]] [[CCAT's Living Roof]]: Building a living roof for CCAT's Earthen Oven. [[Image:Coop.jpg|250px]] [[Tire Shingles]]: Roof shingles made from old racing slicks. [[Image:BricelandFinal.jpg|250px]] [[Briceland PV]]: 960W photovoltaic installation in Briceland, CA. ===using left allignment and captions === [[Image:IMG_6743.JPG|250px|thumb|left|Click for project '''-->''' [[Argentina Photovoltaics]] '''A small photovoltaic system for a natural building/permaculture institute in Central Argentina.''' ]] [[Image:Set - 3 003.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Click for project ==> [[CCAT's Living Roof]] '''A living roof for CCAT's Earthen Oven.''']] [[Image:Coop.jpg|250px|thumb|left|'''Click for project => [[Tire Shingles]] <br />''Roof shingles made from old racing slicks.''''']] [[Image:BricelandFinal.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Click for project -> [[Briceland PV]] '''960W photovoltaic installation in Briceland, CA.''']] [[Image:Cs-sfd-Bananas.jpg|250px|thumb|left|Click for project -> [[Chris's ENGR305 Solar Food Dehydrator]] '''A hybrid solar food dehydrator, that adheres to as many of the principles of modern food dehydration.''']] [[Image:Finalcobbbench(6).jpg|250px|thumb|left|Click for project -> [[Bloomfield Cobb Bench]] '''A cobb bench at Bloomfiled Elementary School in Arcata, CA.''']] <br style="clear: left"/> ==Input box== <inputbox> type=create editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Catreminder width=25 </inputbox> The code: <nowiki><inputbox></nowiki> <nowiki>type=create</nowiki> <nowiki>editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro</nowiki> <nowiki>preload=Template:Catreminder</nowiki> <nowiki>width=25</nowiki> <nowiki></inputbox></nowiki> ==Input box with new page text== <inputbox> type=create editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newpageresourcetext width=25 </inputbox> The code: <nowiki><inputbox></nowiki> <nowiki>type=create</nowiki> <nowiki>editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro</nowiki> <nowiki>preload=Template:Newpageresourcetext</nowiki> <nowiki>width=25</nowiki> <nowiki></inputbox></nowiki> ===Input box with no break=== <inputbox> type=create editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Catreminder width=25 break=no </inputbox> ===Input box to add new section to this page=== <inputbox> type=comment editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Catreminder width=25 break=no </inputbox> ==Input box array== {| style="float:left;border:1px solid #66f" |+ '''Start a New Page in this Category''' |- !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|Project |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new project editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newprojectpage </inputbox> | !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|How to |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new how to editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newhowtopage </inputbox> |- !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|Program |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new program editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newprogrampage </inputbox> | !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|Thesis |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add your thesis editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newthesispage </inputbox> |- !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|Organization |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new organization editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Neworganizationpage </inputbox> | !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|Tool |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new tool editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newtoolpage </inputbox> |- !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|Coordination |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new coordination editintro=MediaWiki:Newpageintro preload=Template:Newcoordinationpage </inputbox> | !style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;background:#b0b0ff;padding-left: .9em;padding-right: .9em;"|General |style="border:1px solid #b0b0ff;"| <inputbox> type=create buttonlabel=Add new page editintro=General page creation </inputbox> |}<br clear="all" /> {{Newparampageresource|Project}} 1539 47866 2008-07-26T20:31:15Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] Yama Ploskonka *Bolivia *Uruguay *currently resides in Austin, Texas My father, Estanislavo Ploskonka, taught me a lot about app tech. And why it is important! 1540 2101 2006-05-09T00:18:02Z Megan 15 Laying the foundation with urbanite pieces and gravel Laying the foundation with urbanite pieces and gravel 1541 2102 2006-05-09T00:29:08Z Megan 15 Laying the foundation with urbanite and gravel Laying the foundation with urbanite and gravel 1542 2104 2006-05-09T00:43:47Z Megan 15 1543 2106 2006-05-09T01:08:53Z Megan 15 Laying the foundation with urbanite and gravel Laying the foundation with urbanite and gravel 1544 2107 2006-05-09T01:11:32Z Megan 15 Preparing and braking down the clay to mix the cobb. Preparing and braking down the clay to mix the cobb. 1545 2108 2006-05-09T01:12:47Z Megan 15 Mixing the clay and sand together. Mixing the clay and sand together. 1546 2109 2006-05-09T01:14:21Z Megan 15 An assembly line of cobbers with cobb balls in hand, ready to make a bench. An assembly line of cobbers with cobb balls in hand, ready to make a bench. 1547 2110 2006-05-09T01:15:15Z Megan 15 Applying the cobb mix to the foundation of the bench. Applying the cobb mix to the foundation of the bench. 1548 2111 2006-05-09T01:16:19Z Megan 15 After many sessions of cobbing our child size bench finally looks like a bench. After many sessions of cobbing our child size bench finally looks like a bench. 1549 2112 2006-05-09T01:17:20Z Megan 15 Another angle of the bench showing cupholders right before the application of the cobb slip. Another angle of the bench showing cupholders right before the application of the cobb slip. 1550 2113 2006-05-09T01:18:07Z Megan 15 Applying the linseed oil to the bench.| Applying the linseed oil to the bench.| 1551 2146 2006-05-09T07:13:04Z Lonny 2 /* Ferrocement */ ==Hello and request== Hello Yama. Welcome to appropedia. Would you be interested in writting some instructions and background on [[Canning and preserving]]? Thank you, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 18:31, 8 May 2006 (PDT) How did you know I'm on record :-) in those fields? Uh, maybe googled me... Sure! [[User:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]] 19:27, 8 May 2006 (PDT) Oh yes. Google. [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:05, 9 May 2006 (PDT) == Ferrocement == Hi Yama, The ferrocement topics are a great addition. I may have access to some ferrocement student videos, which you could link to. Thank you, [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 18:38, 8 May 2006 (PDT) Thank you. The best ever resource I have come across is a National Academy Of Science booklet. That led me to experiment with the thing and participate in a ferrocrete email list in the days I worked as Captain of the Port in Lake Titicaca, Bolivia. There I tried (unsuccessfully) to make an f-c boat, so in that area I am passionate but without a positive track record. There are many areas in AT that I really care about, and I am very glad about this wiki. Right now I am in the middle of a major project for the summer, which I will end with 3 weeks back in Bolivia, so my contributions will not yet get to the level I want them to be, but I will be there. Thanks, best to you all [[User:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]] 19:32, 8 May 2006 (PDT) We are very excited to have you as part of this community. I plan on having some of my topic submissions up by the end of the summer, in time to use them as teaching tools next semester. I codirect a Spanish and Appropriate Technology immersion summer program in [http://www.humboldt.edu/~parras Parras de la Fuente], and hope to use some of that time to complete 4 or 5 topics pages. Good luck with your project and enjoy your time back in Bolivia. [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:13, 9 May 2006 (PDT) 1552 16216 2007-02-03T05:30:59Z Curtbeckmann 67 cat fix '''Canning and Preserving''' play an important role in any AT endeavors, since any progress in enhancing food supply will require some method to make food available outside of the time of harvest or other natural cycles that determine availability of food. ==Established Traditional Technologies== * [[Charque]] a.k.a [[Charque|Jerky]], basically drying with excess salt * [[Smoking]] phenols act as preservatives, usually combined with other natural chemicals and processes. Nowadays deprecated since phenols are known carcinogens. * [[Pickling]] * [[Drying]] - probably the most used preserving technology worldwide, and the one where the results/investment ratio is the highest. See also [[:Category:Solar dehydrating]]. ==AT Improvements on Traditional Technologies== Improvements in food storage have the highest impact in bottom-line availability of off-season foodstuffs, much more than preserving itself. Better [[dryers]] are probably the next positive improvement, one that assures consistent quality and eventually opens the way for export. ==Doubtful Technologies from an AT point of view== * [[Canning]] Countless World Bank and other such projects worldwide have proven unsuccessful because of reliance on containers that cannot be produced locally. Logistics in the supply of those, as well as distribution, etc., often assure the failure of such development initiatives. ==External Links== * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Canning Wikipedia] has a non-AT canning article that provides some basic notions * [http://homegarden.expertvillage.com/interviews/canning-preserving.htm videos I star on] of some canning techniques - not quite AT unless you live in a country where AT is a hobby choice, not a survival necessity. initial post [[User:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]] 19:52, 8 May 2006 (PDT) [[Category:Food preserving]] 1553 7629 2006-11-09T12:20:10Z Chriswaterguy 49 #redirect [[Category talk:Topic]] (content has already been copied there) #redirect [[Category talk:Topic]] 1555 2134 2006-05-09T05:35:09Z Megan 15 Unloading urbanite pieces at the Bloomfield School cobb site Unloading urbanite pieces at the Bloomfield School cobb site 1556 2135 2006-05-09T05:38:38Z Megan 15 Unloading the urbanite pieces at the Cobbing site. Unloading the urbanite pieces at the Cobbing site. 1557 2140 2006-05-09T06:10:08Z Megan 15 Homemade Tinctures by Megan Nelson Homemade Tinctures by Megan Nelson 1558 2151 2006-05-09T17:51:02Z Megan 15 <gallery>[[image:cobbtesting.jpg|thumbnail|testing different ratios of clay to sand for cobb mixture.[[image:diggingfoundation.jpg|thumbnail|Digging into to earth to lay foundation. [[image:measuringdepth.jpg|thumbnail|Measuring the depth of hole for foundation. [[image:layingurbanite.jpg|thumbnail|Laying the urbanite pieces and gravel of the foundation. [[image:finalcobbbench(0).jpg|thumbnail|laying the urbanite for the bench with urbanite and gravel. [[image:finalcobbbench(1).jpg|thumbnail|Preparing the ingredients to mix the cobb. [[image:finalcobbbench(2).jpg|thumbnail|Mixing the clay and sand together. [[image:finalcobbbench(3).jpg|thumbnail|A communal assembly line of cobbers with cobb balls in hand, ready to make a bench. [[image:finalcobbbench(4).jpg|thumbnail|Applying the cobb mix to the foundation of the bench.</gallery> 1559 2152 2006-05-09T18:12:05Z Megan 15 Testing different ratios of clay to sand for cobb mixture Testing different ratios of clay to sand for cobb mixture 1560 2156 2006-05-09T19:39:23Z Megan 15 Digging up the earth to lay the urbanite for the foundation. Digging up the earth to lay the urbanite for the foundation. 1561 2157 2006-05-09T19:40:36Z Megan 15 Measuring the depth of the hole for the laying of the foundation. Measuring the depth of the hole for the laying of the foundation. 1562 2158 2006-05-09T19:42:39Z Megan 15 Laying the urbanite pieces and gravel of the foundation. Laying the urbanite pieces and gravel of the foundation. 1563 2160 2006-05-09T20:13:00Z Megan 15 Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. 1564 2161 2006-05-09T20:15:52Z Megan 15 Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. 1565 2162 2006-05-09T20:17:23Z Megan 15 Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. 1566 2163 2006-05-09T20:23:59Z Megan 15 Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. Testing the tensile strength of the cobb mix before applying to the foundation. 1567 8340 2006-11-22T17:27:20Z Helge.at 88 Template:Email This is an at symbol for spam resistant email posting. Please go back to the email address and hand copy or type it, i.e. clicking and cut-and-paste will not work. If you want to post your own span resistant email address, use something like: <nowiki> name[[Image:atsymbol.png]]organization[[Image:dot.png]]org </nowiki> or use [[Template:Email]] <br /> to show <br /> name[[Image:atsymbol.png]]organization[[Image:dot.png]]org 1568 32624 2008-01-07T13:46:40Z Chriswaterguy 49 uploaded a new version of "[[Image:Dot.png]]": make it narrower, to avoid wide gap in email address This is a dot symbol for spam resistant email posting. Please go back to the email address and hand copy or type it, i.e. clicking and cut-and-paste will not work. If you want to post your own span resistant email address, use something like: <nowiki> name[[Image:atsymbol.png]]organization[[Image:dot.png]]org </nowiki> <br /> to show <br /> name[[Image:atsymbol.png]]organization[[Image:dot.png]]org 1569 2186 2006-05-10T23:34:56Z Megan 15 1570 8125 2006-11-16T13:56:54Z Chriswaterguy 49 class="wikitable" question: only access to this page is by typing it in the search box. Is this on purpose? shouldn't some way exist for contributors to get here and become aware of the todos? == Front door for contributors == Great point. Here were some of my reasons: *I do not want to clutter the homepage with ways for people to contribute. **I realize that this can probably be easily worked around, with just one link to a editors front page. *Some tasks are impossible for a non sysop contributor, such as adding latex, changing automatic search boxes, namespaces etc. *I am still learning to delegate and release. That said - I think that we should change this. Do you have a suggestion or example? Maybe seperate the todo sections differently? --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:32, 11 May 2006 (PDT) Should we put the community portal in the navigation box and use that for community doable todos? --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:58, 11 May 2006 (PDT) :Yes! :-) Always nice to check off a todo. ==BOD?== Is BOD "Board of Directors?" Is Appropedia incorporated? Just curious... 501c3 questions are popping into my head... --[[User:Curtbeckmann|Curtbeckmann]] 19:23, 4 October 2006 (PDT) :No, but we are amenable to incorporation. 501c3 will probably eventually be needed. Any movement you want to make on this would be appreciated, but maybe a little early. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 19:32, 4 October 2006 (PDT) == OpenID == It has been pointed out "there's now an [http://www.openid.net/ OpenID] extension for MediaWiki that lets people log into one MW wiki with an account from another wiki. I think it'd be particularly useful for a meta-community site like WikiIndex. The software is available from http://svn.wikimedia.org/viewvc/mediawiki/trunk/extensions/OpenID/ in the MediaWiki subversion library..." comment posted at [[WikiIndex:WikiIndex talk:Community talk]] by Evan on 7 September 2006. Should we add this to the to-do list? I know there has been talk of using a single-login across Wikimedia projects, but I don't know how closely related this is. --[[User:Singkong2005|Singkong2005]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Singkong2005|talk]]</small> 22:07, 14 November 2006 (PST) == class="wikitable" == In tables, the term <tt>class="wikitable"</tt> can be useful to make predefined, standard tables. This appears not to be set up in Appropedia. I'd suggest we go for a slightly different look to Wikipedia, in this as well as other page elements - just to give a slight sense of distinctness, and to help people register at least subconsciously that they are on Appropedia and not Wikipedia. --[[User:Singkong2005|Singkong2005]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Singkong2005|talk]]</small> 05:56, 16 November 2006 (PST) 1571 17205 2007-02-18T22:12:08Z CurtBbot 152 Robot: Changing Category:How to ===Techniques=== There are many techniques when it comes to hand stitching. Techniques include the running stitch and the oversewing stitch. *Running stitches are used mainly when you don't expect that there will be a lot of tension in the area. This is great for sewing patches on fabric. All you do is stitch in a straight line. [[image:running.jpg|thumbnail|a running stitch.]] [[image:oversewing.jpg||thumbnail|oversewing stitch.]] *The oversewing stitch is better for neatening raw edges of fabric or sewing two pieces of fabric together. This is stronger than the running stitch and looks nicer. This stitch is when you sew perpandicular to the edge of the fabric. It gives off a "Nightmare Before Christmas" look. ===Tips=== *Leave yourself a bunch of thread when you're stitching so that you don't run out half-way through. *Floss is stronger than most threads and leaves your clothes minty fresh. *Safety pins are great for holding your fabric in place when sewing. [[Category:How tos]] 1572 2200 2006-05-11T00:44:34Z Aleiha 7 oversewing stitch. oversewing stitch. 1573 2201 2006-05-11T00:45:27Z Aleiha 7 running stitch. running stitch. 1574 49146 2008-08-11T18:17:38Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)appropriate technology(.*$) +[[appropriate technology]]\1) ''Some notes on purpose and structure adapted from some initial emails between [[user:Lonny|Lonny]] and [[user:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]]. Yama please feel free to edit or wikify more.'' ==A Third Area== Hi I'm having a blast. This might be what I have been looking for for the last 15 years or so. Maybe I had to wait for wikis to develop... I will be very busy this month, but participating here might very easily become a main project of mine. What has become of the Whole Earth people? I would have expected they would be all over. Anyway, there is something very powerful in their "contributed by the community catalog" concept, I guess a wiki for that age. I believe we need to pursue that model in some way, I mean, allow a space for people to review a book / idea / concept as to their own experience with it. Only problem is that it requires some passion (opinions), which necesarily are not third-party. Maybe a third area? i.e., Topics, Projects, Resource Reviews. ? oh well, we'll have time to deal with that at some moment Thank you for starting this --[[user:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]] == The Four Areas == Hi Yama, I am so excited to have you involved. I am definitely into the third area that you are discussing. My plans so far are to have four areas (hopefully namespaces): ;Category Namespace: :Textbook style entries, mostly from experts. Also serve as categories for the original research, projects and how-to's in the Article namespace. ;Article Namespace: :Original research, project writeups, how-to's (I would rather this be called Project Namespace, but with no need to preface pages with "project:"). ;User Namespace: :Personal/organizational pages for networking ;Working Namespace: :Common working pages for relevant grants, events, calls for assistance, offerings of assistance, resource reviews, local and global where-to-find-supplies pages, etc. I see the Category and Article Namespace working together as follows, for example the users can: #Look up greywater #Read about greywater concepts #View case-studies, how-to's and common errors to avoid for various greywater projects #Edit and add their own greywater experiences, projects, how-to's and common errors to avoid or skip to any of these steps. Thank you for prompting me to organize some of my thoughts in this email, I look very forward to talking with you again, -[[user:Lonny|Lonny]] ==Background, raison d'etre and reviews== Thanks for your response. This is a bit of a sin, us following on this by email. I feel this should be a wiki kind of thing... :-) (this especially for others to add - please feel free to post/forward/wikify) ''Great Idea... here it is'' I find your structure quite engaging. A major limitation of wikis has the need for a third-person expert approach. While this gives respectability and allows some of academia to treat us seriously, it closes the way for intuition, opinion, and seat-of-the-pants empiric observation, sometimes once-in-a-lifetime things that might be all that is left of a particular technique (think the Foxfire books - r u familiar with those? powerful AT stuff). bottom line, I support having a space for that sort of thing, which is clearly labeled as such, and allow for case studies. Now, about Whole Earth, I feel old. My, a whole generation would either drool or cringe at the name... Steve Jobs described it this way: "When I was young, there was an amazing publication called The Whole Earth Catalog, which was one of the bibles of my generation.... It was sort of like Google in paperback form, 35 years before Google came along: it was idealistic, and overflowing with neat tools and great notions." They were revolutionary in many ways, and what they did might be the first wiki ever. They painted themselves into a corner several times, like when another revolutionary concept, WELL ([http://www.well.com well.com]) didn't evolve outside of paid participation, effectively closing themselves off the rest of the world, or when Point Foundation (the umbrella organization behind it all) got into alternative lifestyles, and the Whole Earth Magazine hasn't had its web page updated since 2005. [http://www.archive.org Archive.org] still has a lot of good stuff from them. So If you don't know the WEC, get one - some libraries still have it. It was one of my first eBay buys when I got to the USA. It had a place of prominence in my reads during my back-to-the-earth days, between 1982 and 1999 Why see the WEC? because they've gone this way before, and made more mistakes trying to play the AT card than we want to. It's sort of learning from the (failed) masters how to do it (maybe) right. One concept they had, very powerful, is these short reviews of a book, product or resource, where they seek ''opinion''. It is definitely NOT the 3-rd person approach of standard wikidom, but that is what I would like us to have - separate from the main, serious/expert Articles area. They also have short quotes of the books, and pictures of the cover or of the tool being reviewed. Quoting appears to be disparaged in wikidom because it might cross copyright, yet standard copyright as a norm ''allows'' "short quotes used in reviews". ''My Famous 3rd Area'', now part of the ''Working'' area? Reviews of books, products or resources. for what I have in mind, see http://www.wholeearthmag.com/faq.html the "Tips from the editor" and the "book and product review" paragraphs All in all, I will become more involved in this, for two reasons, due to my discovering today that WEC is quite dead. # WEC is dead, viva Appropedia # the WEC did fill a need (even though its passing can also be a warning) - there is a niche to fill in the ecosystem now that it is gone. The local supplies pages was something like what the Well was supposed to be. As mentioned, they didn't open up once the internet went free. 'nuf for now. I might put up a look-see sample of what I mean in one of my websites, I'll tell you about it --[[user:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]] == Wiki Earth Catalog == No I was not familiar with the Foxfire books, and I was certainly not familiar with the death of the WEC. I noticed that it had been a while since they put out a new issue, but I just assumed that it was on the way. This is very sad news... but I appreciate your insight and optimism that the wiki format is fitting for the resurrection of the WEC concept. I am very interested in reading about the WEC’s mistakes playing the AT card. For instance what do you think of the name of this site: appropedia? I have always been uneasy about the term “Appropriate Technology”, but as a coined term it serves an important service, seeming unfilled by most other alternative terms. I would also be interested in hearing more about some of the WELL’s mistakes. I remember being turned off by the need for a paid subscription years ago, but I know that the WELL community was also quite strong and creative. The "Tips from the editor" and the "book and product review" found at http://www.wholeearthmag.com/faq.html are very good. I wonder if there is someone to contact about using some of their language. There are now some very young examples of supply pages at [[Humboldt CA Supplies]] and [[Global Supplies]]. All in all, I will become more involved in this, for two reasons, due to my discovering today that WEC is quite dead. 1. WEC is dead, viva Appropedia 2. the WEC did fill a need (even though its passing can also be a warning) - there is a niche to fill in the ecosystem now that it is gone. Excellent! --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] == Low cost computers == Hi, First a self-introduction. I'm newly registered here, though I've been watching it for some time. My main focus is [[Wikipedia:Appropriate technology|appropriate technology stuff at Wikipedia]], but Appropedia is a great complement to Wikipedia. Especially if it were to cover broader issues of development and [[sustainability]] - any objection to other material? E.g. My masters thesis was on water & sanitation management in Indonesia - more about cultural & institutional issues than about Ap Tech, but I'd love to have somewhere to post it for people to make use of it. :Please post your masters thesis here for people to use... that is a main purpose of Appropedia. The broad definitions of [[:Category:Appropriate technology|AT]] that Appropedia follow definitely include Water and Sanitation management in Indonesia. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:13, 28 June 2006 (PDT) ::Will do. I have yet to solve the translation from Word to Wiki markup, though, especially for a longish document with 350 footnotes. I'm hoping I won't have to do it by brute force editing... --[[User:Singkong2005|Singkong2005]] ^{<small>[[User talk:Singkong2005|t]] - [[Special:Contributions/Singkong2005|c]]</small>} 09:57, 28 June 2006 (PDT) I'm a little confused by the structure here, compared to what I'm used to at Wikipedia. Especially the use of article-type material in Category pages. Might be a good idea, but I need to spend some time here figuring stuff out. I also notice that all words in article names are capitalised (e.g. "Appropriate Technology" as opposed to "Appropriate technology" in the [[Wikipedia:naming conventions|Wikipedia naming conventions]]) - is that a deliberate choice? Seems minor, but it's good to have a single standard to make wikilinking easier with fewer glitches; personally I prefer the Wikipedia approach (in which a page like [[Wikipedia:Appropriate Technology]] is generally just a redirect page to the article at [[Wikipedia:Appropriate technology]]). :The use of article-type material in Category pages is a result of the expansion of one small area of wikipedia into an entire new type of wiki. Therefore a wikipedia article at [[wikipedia:Adobe]] becomes [[:Category:Adobe|Appropedia:Category:Adobe]], because that category may include Projects, Curricullum, Resources, How-Tos, Theses, etc. As for the naming, let´s switch to the wikipedia approach especially for non-project pages. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:13, 28 June 2006 (PDT) Anyway, I've started a draft of an article on low-cost computers. I started to do it here, but I wanted to invite computer enthusiasts (e.g. MiniLinux programmers) to contribute, without the hurdle of registration. So I've placed it in my Wikipedia userspace: [[Wikipedia:User:Singkong2005/Low cost computer]] so that anyone can edit it. Is there any objection if I make a page on Appropedia on low cost computers, with a brief explanation and a link? I don't expect this approach to be necessary very often, but it seems appropriate in this case with the specialised knowledge needed. :Yes, it seems fine to make a page here with a link, but it would be preferrable to host the entire article here since its nature fits the appropedia charter much more than that of wikipedia. If the Low cost computer does not get much traffic on your user page, please consider moving it to appropedia. For some work in the same vein as your page, check out the article, [http://www.engr.psu.edu/IJSLE/Vol%201%20No%201%20-%20April%202006/Computer%20Education%20Project.pdf A Portable and Sustainable Computer Education Project for Developing Countries - Phase I], from the International Journal for Service Learning in Engineering. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:13, 28 June 2006 (PDT) Btw, I couldn't find a "Village pump" or "community page"... so I don't know if I'm posting in the right place. Come to think of it, surely a wiki focused on [[appropriate technology]] should have a village pump? ;) --[[User:Singkong2005|Singkong2005]] 05:19, 26 June 2006 (PDT) :Yes this site should definitely have a community page. I will put a link to a blank community page on the navigation bar. Currently there is a [[Appropediatodo]] page (that is very clumsily written), which could probably be adapted into part of a community page, as could this talk page. --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 01:13, 28 June 2006 (PDT) 1575 53690 2008-10-07T21:48:03Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)Greywater treatment(.*$) +[[Greywater treatment]]\1) {{Infobox Project |project_image = [[Image:OccGW_AirTubes.jpg|150px]] |brief_description = [[Greywater treatment]] system made from 55 gallon drums. |location = [[Occidental, California]] |initial_completion = May, 2000 |latest_update = October, 2006 |original_authors = [[User:Goodsignal|Goodsignal]] |major_contributors = }} ==Description== This is, essentially, a five stage, [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Activated_sludge activated sludge] [[greywater system]]. The greywater is biologically processed to be recycled for decorative [[landscaping]]. ==How To== Rather than writing a general “how-to” for this type of greywater system, I'll start with a <nowiki>“this is what I did”</nowiki> type of article. ===Assess the clients needs:=== This client lives in a high drought area of Northern California whose well runs dry during the summer months of the year. Large storage tanks buffer the year round water requirement of the property. However, water still has to be trucked in several times during the dry season. The purpose of this greywater system is to minimize the impact of irrigating a half acre of decorative landscaping surrounding the house by recycling the used water. Depending on the weather, an estimated 100-200 gallons per week is needed for landscaping. The system needs to be low maintenance, easy to use and have enough storage for regular waterings. And supply 100% of the landscaping hydration needs during the drought season. ===Topographical Study:=== The house is two stories. Greywater produced on the second floor has enough head to gravity feed the complete treatment process of the planed system. The first floor drains are too low for a gravity feed greywater system and will not be part of the this treatment plan. The second floor has a large kitchen with a dishwasher, a clothes washer, and two bathrooms. The first floor has a small kitchen and a one bathroom. Most of the greywater potential is produced on the second floor. ===Diverting the Greywater:=== All the second story greywater drains were replumbed into a common pipe. A wye valve was installed to to direct the greywater to either the greywater treatment system or the septic system. In the picture below, the two valves determine where the water flows. The left valve (at the center of the picture) drops down into the septic. The right valve directs to the greywater treatment system. Any greywater retrofit should maintain the option to revert to the original system. If the residents have a need to use chemical cleaners that will go down the drain, having the option to switch to septic will save the health of a biological greywater treatment system. Also, if the greywater system requires maintenance, it's really nice to not have second hand water flowing at you. This greywater system is turned off during the rainy months. When installing any plumbing, follow the local codes. Most of them are there for really good reasons. This retrofit maintains all the required pipe ventilation and meets or exceeds the minimum pipe slope requirements. Somewhere online I researched the California Residential and Commercial Standards. These standards require that any pipe diameter less than or equal to 2” have a slope of 1/4” fall/foot. And any pipe diameter greater than or equal to 3” have a slope of 1/8” fall/foot. [[Image:OccGW UnderHouse.jpg|thumb|none]] From the wye valve the greywater travels down a 4” pipe to the processing chambers (45-gallon drums) in a retired chicken coop. {| |- | [[Image:2_OccidentalGwFromHouse.JPG|thumb]] | [[Image:OccGW ToCoop.jpg|thumb]] |} To allow for the cap of the first drum to open, the downspout rotates upward and out of the way via a set of mated male and female threaded pipe adapters incline on the 4” pipe. They're threaded loose enough to rotate easily and tight enough so that its friction keeps the downspout in the desired position. {| |- | [[Image:OccGW FirstDrum.jpg|thumb]] | [[Image:OccGW OpenDrum1.jpg|thumb]] |} The downspout is designed to create a fairly tight seal with the drum's lid. I wanted to minimize the potential for unforeseen outside influences that could foul the system. ===Greywater Treatement=== This is the heart of the greywater treatment system. Greywater enters from the downspout on the left and gets progressively cleaner as it's pushed through each drum from left to right. [[Image:OccGW CentralSystem.jpg|thumb|none]] For the most part, a healthy flora of aerobic bacteria is what does the cleaning. After an initial seeding of beneficial bacteria, heavy aeration is required to keep the system functioning well. The first drum, containing the dirtiest water gets the heaviest aeration. My target rate for the first two drums is 300 Liters per hour (Lph). That is about 7.5-Lph per gallon of water, which is close to the target aeration rate for municipal activated sludge sewage treatment systems. The next two drums are receiving about 240-Lph, or 6-Lph/gal. One way that this system differs from a typical activated sludge system is that there is no separate settling period. Debris from the house drains and large flocs settle to the bottom of each drum. Part of the regular maintenance is to drain the sludge that collects at the bottom of each drum two or three times a summer. In the picture below, the 2” plumbing and valves make this maintenance easy. One at a time, open each valve for about 10-15 seconds. At the bottom of each drum, an industrial sized floor drain has been installed. A few feet of water pressure, large drains and drain pipes creates decent suction and the sediment gets sucked away. The drains lead to an old oak tree nearby. [[Image:OccGW Last3Drums.jpg|thumb|none]] '''Side Note''' In writing this, I have thought of an improvement to this combined aeration/settling system. As it is, water on the out of this system is fairly clear. But to improve it further, when I get a chance, I'm going to lift the air stone from the bottom, progressively higher in each drum. The aeration from the air stones create considerable turbulence (check picture below) at their flow rates so only the largest flocs and debris settle to the bottom. A non turbulent region below the air stones would allow for more settling and cleaner water on the out. In the first drum, I'll lift the stone only a few inches. The deeper the aeration, the greater dissolved oxygen concentration because of increased water pressure and the contact time the bubbles have with the water before reaching the surface. I'll raise the air stone about 6-inches in the second drum and about 12-inches in the last two drums. I haven't calculated it, but I'm guessing that the high O2 flow rate in these drums will make the difference in height fairly negligible. The upward motion of the air bubbles will maintain a water flow cycle through the drum that will continuously carry oxygenated water from the top down below the aerator. So below the aerators water will continuously flow but the turbulence above wont keep the larger flocs from settling. ADDENDUM: Raising the air stones as described improved the clarity of the water output, and doesn't seem to have any drawbacks. [[Image:OccGW OpenDrum12.jpg|thumb|none]] '''Continued...''' Water transfer from drum to drum through 1-inch irrigation pipe pushed through a 15/16-inch hole and an 90-degree elbow (see the elbow between the two drums below). It takes some force to get the irrigation pipe through but the seal is water tight and it save the cost of expensive bulkhead fittings, which are typically used to tap a hole in a tank. Additionally, the these holes are drilled on the curve where the drum starts tapering to the lid. Being on the curve forces the irrigation pipe to slant downward into the water, minimizing the chance for oils and surface scum to transfer from drum to drum. And since flocs tend to sink rather than float, there's less chance that they will flow up the irrigation pipe into the next drum. [[Image:OccGW FirstDrum.jpg |thumb|none]] In the last drum, the water exits into another irrigation pipe, this one slanting upward (see in picture below at right). It leads to the 500-gallon storage tank. The opening at this pipe is set higher than all the other drum-to-drum pipes and sets the water level in all the drums. As greywater flows into the system from the house, water is pushed progressively through the system and exits at the surface of the final drum. Currently this pipe is skimming the surface of the last drum, which is fairly processed and clean, but I think I'll put an elbow on this pipe to pull water from an inch or two below the surface instead. [[Image:OccGW AirTubes.jpg|thumb|none]] The water flows out of the chicken coop to the 500-gallon storage tank about 30-feet down the hill. Here you can see the drum to storage tank pipe, the maintenance drain, the return pipe for pressurized, treated greywater leading back to the house and the aeration hose coming to the drums. {| |- | [[Image:OccGW ProcessExit.jpg|thumb]] | [[Image:OccGW StorageEntrance.jpg|thumb]] |} ===Greywater Storage=== Here's where the water from the drums enter the storage tank. The other pipe is the overflow drain, currently leading to the old oak tree as well. But, since the overflow is treated, I'm thinking about plans to direct it to a series of currently unused garden ponds nearby. The first small pond will serve as an ornamental wetland treatment for the water before flowing into a larger pond nearby. {| |- | [[Image:OccGW SmallPond.jpg|thumb]] | [[Image:OccGW LargePond.jpg|thumb]] |} ====Hardware==== The Storage tank is also oxygenated to maintain aerobic conditions, keeping the water 'healthy' until used for landscape irrigation. The storage tank is being aerated at a rate somewhere around 2300 Lph. About 4.5-Lph/gal. It has been over a year since the current system has been built and I'm very happy with the performance of the air pump. It's an Airtech 40 Pond Aeration pump. They claim that they make the most efficient air pumps on the market and it's the only company I could find that openly publishes their performance curves. You can see it mounted to the top of the flotec well pressure tank. Coincidentally they match. The Airtec isn't UL approved for outdoor use so you see it with my makeshift pump housing which protects it from any water that might leak from the roof of the aviary and doubles as a baffle to keep dust from entering the pump's air filter. Hopefully the air filter will last longer because of it. The housing is a cut down 5-gallon bucket mounted on lamp hardware which keeps it from touching the vibrating pump. The pump is fairly quiet unless there is something to vibrate against. [[Image:OccGW StoragePumps.jpg|thumb|none]] The system shown here at the storage tank out flow is a Flotec ¾-hp jet pump, a Flotec 40-gal pressure tank providing continuous 30-50 psi water pressure to a couple greywater designated spigots back up at the house for irrigation. [[Image:OccGW JetPump.jpg|thumb|none]] I have recently added a float switch and a separate cut-off switch to the jet pump. The float switch is shown in only about 10-inches of water. It's tethered to to open the circuit when the water level goes down to about 4-inches. I doesn't close the circuit until the water level fills back up to about 10-inches. {| |- | [[Image:OccGW FloatSwitch.jpg|thumb]] | [[Image:OccGW Electrical.jpg|thumb]] |} ====Repairs==== Recently, the greywater flow got switched to the septic system for some maintenance, but wasn't switched back after the maintenance finished. Irrigation continued as normal, draining the storage tank and the jet pump ran for two days without water. It got hot and melted the PVC adapters going in and out of the pump. Fortunately, the pump didn't need to be replaced because it has a built-in temperature switch that shuts off before it's own components melt or burn out. Only the plumbing surrounding the pump had to be replaced. The float switch simply cuts the power to the pump if the tank gets too low, preventing this type of problem in the future. I installed the manual cut-off switch to the jet pump as well after realizing that any maintenance required for the jet pump meant turning off the power to the air pump as well. Now aeration of all the drums and storage tank doesn't have to be interrupted if any work is required on the jet pump. The picture (above right) shows the master switch and outlet powering the air pump above and jet pump switch box below. The float switch is wired in line at this lower switch box. The manuals for all the equipment are zip lock bagged and stapled to the wall in for convenience in case anyone less familiar with the system needs to work on it in the future. Replacing the plumbing for this problem was a fairly simple task, thanks to some preplanning when the system was built. Looking back at the jet pump detail picture, the red valve at the tank out-flow allowed me to work on the plumbing without losing any more water from the tank. And, the quick connect adapters (grey, larger diameter) before and after the pump allowed for replacement of only the sections damaged by overheating. Also, the coupled male-female threaded pipe adapters before the pressure gauge kept me from having to replace the whole gauge assembly. Coming back to the air pump, when designing the pneumatic plumbing to the air stones, using irrigation pipe seemed to be the most cost effective way to cover the, close to 50-foot, distance. In the picture below the irrigation tubing (in need of a pipe clamp) is pushed onto the air pump nozzle. [[Image:OccGW AirPumpOut.jpg|thumb|none]] ====Air Distribution==== From the irrigation tubing, I used a barb hole punch and standard 1/8” drip irrigation barbs to tap into the tubing. From there I used the more expensive vinyl tubing typically used for airstones. Most of the airstones have 1/4” nipples. I saved on adapters by just pushing the 1/8” vinyl tubing into 1/4” vinyl tubes as you can see in the picture below. The first airstone is larger with a 3/8” nipple. [[Image:OccGW Pneumatics.jpg|thumb|none]] It is certainly not the most elligant and likely has some minor leaks but it works. ===Maintenance Schedule=== ====Monthly:==== Once a month open the first two drums and scoop out any oils that have collected with a pool skimmer. Most of it is in the first drum and the second drum usually just has a couple traces. ====Every other month:==== As mentioned prior, suck out the sediment at the bottom of the drums. Open each valve, one at a time, for 5-10 seconds. Clean the airstones. Turn off the air pump. Pull the airstones up and out of the drums and tanks. Soak each airstone for a minute or two in muriatic acid (pool filter cleaner) using a plastic container (it etches glass). Eye and skin protection required. Read the label. ====Beginning of season:==== Visually inspect all plumbing, electrical wires and the jet pump. Clean or replace the air filter on the air pump. Switch drain valves from the septic to the greywater system. Turn the power on to the system. Seed the system with beneficial aerobic bacteria. One bottle of K-87 is enough (see below). When the first drum is at least half full, pour a few tablespoons in. Seed the system again when water reaches the storage tank by pouring the bottle evenly between the four drums. I have been using [http://www.roebic.com/catalog/bacteria.htm Roebic Laboratories] K-87 soap digester. The local hardware store stocks several Roebic products. When I first started building this system, I called the company up and asked which of their products contain the most aerobic digestive bacteria. K-87 was their answer. Looking at their website now, it looks like they may have added the perfect product to their line, Air-O-Pak. ====At the end of the season:==== Switch drain valves to the septic system. Clean the airstones. Scrub down the walls of each drum and storage tank with a long-handled brush. Drain drums and storage tank completely. Leave them open until completely dry, then close it all up until next drought season. Shut the power to the system. ===Potential Improvements=== I'm considering adding some bacterial media to the last two drums, creating significantly more surface area for the bacteria to adhere to. Low operation cost and easy maintenance are the requirements for this system. One idea I heard about, that I like and am considering, is to reuse old plastic drink bottles. The bottoms need to be cut off so that the flow of aerated water can pass through. Smaller bottles have more surface are to volume than larger bottles. Throwing the bottles directly in the tanks would make cleaning and maintenance a hassle. I'm wondering if large (around 10-gallon) plastic mesh bags are available, like a larger version of what onions are often sold in at the supermarket. Filling one of those with bottomless plastic bottles and hanging them in the drum from a hook fastened to the lid might work well. It would be easy to remove and easy to replace. And the empty bottles cost nothing. ===Water Quality Test=== I finally got around to having the greywater effluent laboratory tested. I sampled the greywater from the hose that is used to water the landscaping after letting it run for about 5 minutes. I let the water run in order to clear out any stagnant water that may have been sitting in the hose and plumbing. I chose three tests that would give a pretty good idea of the overall water quality, Biological Oxygen Demand (BOD), Chemical Oxygen Demand (COD), and a Fecal Coliform count. I would like to have had a Total Coliform count, as well as conducting all four tests on the greywater before it went through the system for comparison. But the three tests alone cost $150US, so I compromised. The tests were taken on September 5th, 2007; The end of summer. The well at this property had been dry for a couple of months and potable water was being purchased. So the household was being very conservative with their water use. Generally, being conservative means less dilution of the dirts and soaps going down the drain into the greywater system. So we can assume the water being treated was dirty. I don't know how dirty because I have never tested it; It was probably worse than normal and much worse than what the result show here for the treated water. ====Laboratory Results==== {| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center" ! Analysis ! Results |- | BOD₅ @ 20 degrees C mg/L (Std. Mthds. 20^th ed. 5210) | < 5.0 |- | COD mg/L (HACH 8000) | 32. |- | Fecal Colifom MPN/100ml | 23. |} I apologize for not having done the research to tell you what these numbers mean. If any of you reading this are familiar with water quality testing and could offer your expertise, it would be appreciated. <gallery> Image:1_OccidentalGwUnderHouse.JPG|'''Fig 1:''' Greywater and sewer valves underneath the house. Image:2_OccidentalGwFromHouse.JPG|'''Fig 2:''' Piping coming from to the greywater system. Image:3_OccidentalGwAlongFence.JPG|'''Fig 3:'''Greywater piping running along fence. ''(slope is downward, but looks different because fence is steeper than piping)'' Image:4_OccidentalGwToFirstOTank.JPG|'''Fig 4:'''Greywater into first tank. Image:5_OccidentalGwTreatmentTanks.JPG|'''Fig 5:'''All four, 55 gallon, greywater treatment tanks. Image:6_OccidentalGwTreatmentTanksBubbles.JPG|'''Fig 6:'''Aeration in first two, 55 gallon, greywater treatment tanks. ''(Notice most bubbles in the first tank.)'' Image:7_OccidentalGwTreatmentTanksBottom.JPG|'''Fig 7:'''Settling takeoffs for all four, 55 gallon drum, greywater treatment tanks. Image:8_OccidentalGwTreatmentTanksOut.JPG|'''Fig 8:'''Processed greywater leaving the treatment system and heading towards the 500 gallon, aerated, holding tank. </gallery> [[Category:Greywater treatment]] [[Category:Projects]] [[Category:Constructed wetlands]] [[Category:California]] 1576 2220 2006-05-11T10:41:50Z Lonny 2 1577 2221 2006-05-11T10:42:20Z Lonny 2 1578 2222 2006-05-11T10:42:36Z Lonny 2 1579 2223 2006-05-11T10:42:53Z Lonny 2 1580 2224 2006-05-11T10:43:12Z Lonny 2 1581 2225 2006-05-11T10:43:30Z Lonny 2 1582 2226 2006-05-11T10:43:48Z Lonny 2 1583 2227 2006-05-11T10:44:10Z Lonny 2 1584 28457 2007-10-04T15:58:11Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/159.145.15.101|159.145.15.101]] ([[User_talk:159.145.15.101|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] The following is outdated and needs to be updated and included in [[Appropedia:About]]. ==Background== ==Purpose== ==The Four Areas== The four proposed areas (hopefully namespaces), are '''Category''', '''Article''', '''User''' and '''Working'''. More areas may be necessary: '''Category Pages''' * Include textbook or encyclopedic style entries, mostly from experts. ** Appropedia is strongly considering directing all encyclopedic entries to wikipedia, and then using transclusion to include them here. ** Currently the category pages should be used only for value added information such as formulae and more specific information than would be fitting for Wikipedia. In fact it may be better to just make an article page to include in the category, e.g. ''Adobe Lesson Plans'' under the category Adobe. * Serve as categories for the original research, curriculum, lecture notes, case studies, projects and how-to's in the Article namespace. ** Also serve as categories for linked other media, such as excel tools, video virals and instructional videos focusing on language neutral approaches. * Can be browsed by all for edification. * Can be linked together on Working teacher pages for a curriculum, think: Week 1: Study and edit if necessary [[:category:Greywater|Greywater]] read and comment if desired [[AEF greywater|Greywater at the Arcata Educational Farm]] [[Occidental Greywater|55 Gallon Drum Processed Greywater]] '''Article Pages:''' * Include original research, case studies, project writeups, how-to's * See the [[List of Projects]] for examples * ''I think I would rather this be called Project Namespace, but with no need to preface pages with "project:".'' '''User Pages:''' * Are for networking * Include personal information such as affiliations and interests * Include Organizational information such as services provided, needed, hours and links to organizational webpage. * Utilize the discussion tab for contact and correspondance with potential partners. '''Working Pages:''' * Are common, collaborative, working pages * Include pages for relevant grants ** Find a grant that would be great for you, but you do not quite meet the criteria? Post it here for others to review. * Highlight events ** Publicize your event here * Serve as calls for assistance and offerings of assistance ** Have services to offer/request? How about materials to offer/request? Post it here (would [http://www.craigslist.org/ craigslist] be better?) * Include book/link/article/tool reviews ** Suggest and review resources here **Unlike the Categories and Articles, which should attempt unified result (Categories more than Articles) through peer review, reviews themselves should show personal opinions, with some editing as needed for neatness/spelling/appropriatedness, to avoid a "from the pulpit" endorsement of a given resource. (Thank you [[user:Yamaplos|Yamaplos]]) * Highlight local where-to-find-supplies pages ** Think yourtown_yourregion_supplies. Place to post where to find supplies in your area. ** Free bins, thrift stores, junk yards, repair shops, wood piles, clay piles. ** See [[Humboldt CA Supplies]] for an early example. * Highlight global where-to-find-supplies page ** Internet and catalog resources ** See [[Global Supplies]] for an early start to this page *etc. I see the Category and Article Namespace working together as follows, for example the users can: # Look up greywater (category) # Read about greywater concepts (category) # View case-studies, how-to's and common errors to avoid for various greywater projects (article) # Edit and add their own greywater experiences, projects, how-to's and common errors to avoid (article) or skip to any of these steps. [[Category:Appropedia policy]] 1585 41263 2008-04-22T06:02:07Z Jthiller 727 Removed Boneyard Computers - Reason: Closed {{TOCright}} Please keep this updated with your supply leads and advice. Know a great store, website, free bin or other, let us know. Feel free to add to the lists even if you are missing some of the information. If you have additional information about one of these stores please add it as well. ==Free Stuff== ;Free Wood :Go out West End Rd. and drive around the Aldergrove industrial park. Look for free wood signs. There are two consistent sites, one is next to the Renner station at West End and Aldergrove, the other is off Aldergrove on Frank Martin Ct. ;[http://www.humboldt.edu/~recycle/rose.html Reusable Office Supplies Exchange (ROSE)] :Free office supplies available to Humboldt State University students, staff and faculty. ;[http://www.librarybikes.org/ Arcata Library Bikes] :8th St. (1/2 block West of the Arcata Plaza). Well-used bike parts (tires, wheels, etc.) available gratis if you do some serious rummaging. Hours are irregular without a phone. Drop by or email librarybike &#xAB;at&#xBB; hotmail.com beforehand ([http://www.rickconner.net/spamweb/avoiding.html#munge why does this email address look different?]). ==Stores== ;The Koop :829 10th St. Arcata (707) 822-5410 :Great used electronics, motors, magnets, wires, power supplies, etc. ;Arcata Scrap :192 South G St. Arcata (707) 822-4881 :Excellent metal yard ;Solutions :1063 H St. Arcata (707) 822-6972 :New environmental stuff, fibers, paints, books, etc. ;[http://www.arcatarecycling.org/ Arcata Recycling Center] :1380 9th St. Arcata (707) 822-4542 :Used nuts, bolts, wires ;[http://www.johnsautowrecking.com John's Auto Wreckers] :3008 Jacobs Ave. Between Eureka and Arcata (707) 443-7065 :Used alternators, regulators check out website ;Eureka Sand & Gravel :4945 Boyd Road, Blue Lake (707) 822-1795 :Like the name says - sand and gravel ;Industrial Electric Service :1601 Samoa Blvd, Arcata (707) 822-2485 :Industrial, commercial, wiring supplies, lamps &fixtures, motors, motor control, AC/DC drives, etc. :General sales, service, & repair ;[http://www.oldgrowthtimbers.com OldGrowthTimbers.com] - Used Lumber :4051 US Hwy 101 South (behind the Mill Yard), Arcata (707) 498-1732 :Reclaimed lumber and timbers, old growth redwood, western red cedar, douglas-fir ==Links== ;[http://www.ciwmb.ca.gov/CalMAX/northcoastmax/ Humboldt/Del Norte Material Exchange Board] :Awesome idea from the California Integrated Waste Management Board. Links up one companies waste with another person or companies needs. Items sometimes available for free or low-cost include: Burlap sacks, 4 1/2 gal buckets, 55 gal drums, chairs, cloth, food scraps... ;[http://finance.groups.yahoo.com/group/humboldt-freecycle/ Humboldt Freecycle] : Fantastic listserve for posting wanted and offered stuff. If you subscribe be ready for your inbox to fill up: [http://www.arcatacommunity.org/email/#sorting Set up automatic sorting rules] to effortlessly manage this onslaught. ;[http://humboldt.craigslist.org/ Humboldt Craigslist] :The famous craigslist now serves Humboldt County. There are sections to offer or request services, goods, products, rides, housing, etc. ;[[Humboldt exchange community currency]] [http://www.humboldtexchange.org/] :Bimonthly print and online directory of goods and services offered and wanted in exchange for community currency or at no cost. ;[http://www.tricityweekly.com/classifieds/?loc=detail&main=Announcements&sub=Material%20Exchange Tri-City Weekly Materials Exchange] :Weekly classified advertisement newspaper offers free advertisements if materials are being offered at no cost. Link to current listings in materials exchange. ==Map== <googlemap lat="40.874194" lon="-124.068089" zoom="13" width="600" height="600" overview="yes" controls="large"> 40.869931, -124.086839, ''The Koop'' Great used electronics, motors, magnets, wires, power supplies, etc. ''829 10th St, Arcata, CA, (707) 822-5410'' 40.858871, -124.089524, '''Arcata Scrap''' Excellent metal yard ''192 S G St, Arcata, CA, (707) 822-4881'' 40.870358, -124.092889, '''Arcata Community Recycling Center''' Used nuts, bolts, wires ''1380 9th St., Arcata, CA (707) 822-4542'' 40.870365, -124.086352, '''Solutions''' New environmental stuff, fibers, paints, books, etc. ''1063 H St, Arcata, CA, (707) 822-6972'' 40.804883, -124.133368, '''[http://www.johnsautowrecking.com John's Auto Wreckers]''' Used alternators, regulators, etc., ''3008 Jacobs Ave, Eureka, CA, (707) 443-7065'' 40.90611, -124.073738, '''Eureka Sand & Gravel''' Like the name says - sand and gravel ''4945 Boyd Rd, Arcata, CA, (707) 822-1795'' 40.866725, -124.095936, ''Industrial Electric Service'' Industrial, commercial, wiring supplies, lamps &fixtures, motors, motor control, AC/DC drives, etc. General sales, service, & repair ''1601 Samoa Blvd, Arcata, CA, (707) 822-2485'' 40.827141, -124.08436, '''[http://www.OldGrowthTimbers.com Old Growth Timbers]''' Reclaimed lumber and timbers, old growth redwood, western red cedar, douglas-fir ''4051 US Hwy 101 South (behind the Mill Yard), Arcata, CA, (707) 498-1732'' 40.875707, -124.079939, [http://www.humboldt.edu/%7Erecycle/rose R.O.S.E.] Reusable Office Supplies Exchange (ROSE) Free office supplies available to Humboldt State University students, staff and faculty. ''Humboldt State University, rose@humboldt.edu, (707)826-4162 1'' 40.904788, -124.068979, '''Free Wood''' ''Ericson Rd. and Frank Martin Ct., Arcata, CA'' 40.901771, -124.073099, '''Free Wood''' Look for free wood sign. Often has great counter remnants. ''Aldergrove and West End Road, Arcata, CA'' </googlemap> {{Template:Working namespace}} [[Category:Supplies]] [[Category:Humboldt County, California]] 1586 49416 2008-08-14T20:00:18Z ChriswaterguyBot 502 Robot: Automated text replacement (-(?s)appropriate technology(.*$) +[[appropriate technology]]\1) *This should be part of the yet to be created - Working or CommonWork namespace. DELETE this line when moved. Please keep this updated with your supply leads and advice. Know a great store, website, free bin or other, let us know. Feel free to add to the lists even if you are missing some of the information. If you have additional information about one of these stores please add it as well. ==Free Stuff== Some possible sources for free stuff in your community. ===USA=== *Many communities have free bins *Many communities have material exchange boards online *Construction sites **Make sure to ask permission ==Links== ;[http://www.sciplus.com American Science and Surplus] : All types of crazy and useful hardware for pretty good prices. (Interestingly still using line art drawings, instead of photos, for items.) ; [http://www.harborfreight.com Harbor Freight] : Classic hardware site, unfortunately many products are cheaply made with dubious labor environments. Wanna be tempted - click "What's Hot". ;[http://www.realgoods.com Real Goods] :Real pricey ...but real cool. ;[http://www.abebooks.com Abe Books] :Great spot for used technical and school books. I bought a linear algebra book here for $7, used it for the semester, and sold it back for $55. I bought an [[appropriate technology]] book for 80% off its cover price. I bought...ad nauseam. If you want to find by ISBN, use advanced tab. ;[http://www.aureka.com Aureka] :<cite>"AUREKA is a metal workshop unit of the Auroville international township, located a few miles north of Pondicherry in south-east India. Particular emphasis is placed on the manufacture of equipment supportive of [[sustainability]] - such as windpumps, shredder and compressed earth block presses (for building) etc, though a wide variety of other work is also undertaken."</cite> [[Category:Supplies]] 1587 6241 2006-10-12T00:16:54Z Lonny 2 [[Talk:Humboldt CA Supplies]] moved to [[Talk:Humboldt CA supplies]]: to meet capitalization naming convention Here is a table version for stores... seems less accessible for editing by all due to the table format. Plus as [[User:Gabe|Gabe]] stated: The table isn't any easier to read, especially with no added sorting ability (spreadsheet style). {| border="1" cellspacing="4" cellpadding="2" align="center" ! Name !! Address !! Phone !! Description |- | The Koop || 829 10th St. Arcata || (707) 822-5410 || Great used electronics, motors, wires, power supplies, etc. |- | Arcata Scrap || 192 South G St. Arcata || (707) 822-4881 || Excellent metal yard |- | Solutions || 1063 H St. Arcata || (707) 822-6972 || New environmental stuff, fibers, paints, books, etc. |- | Arcata Recyling Center || 1380 9th St. Arcata || (707) 822-4542 || Used nuts, bolts, wires, www.arcatarecycling.org |- | John`s Auto Wreckers || 3008 Jacobs Ave. Between Eureka and Arcata || (707) 443-7065|| Used alternators, regulators check out http://www.johnsautowrecking.com |- | Boneyard Computers || 5th and A St. Eureka || (707) 476-0221 || Used computers and electronics, such as motors and fans |- | Eureka Sand & Gravel || 4945 Boyd Road, Blue Lake || (707) 822-1795|| Like the name says - sand and gravel |} 1588 2243 2006-05-11T21:11:53Z Michael 18 1589 2244 2006-05-11T21:14:17Z Michael 18 1590 2245 2006-05-11T21:15:08Z Michael 18 1591 2246 2006-05-11T21:15:37Z Michael 18 1592 2247 2006-05-11T21:16:18Z Michael 18 1593 2248 2006-05-11T21:16:55Z Michael 18 1594 2249 2006-05-11T21:17:18Z Michael 18 1595 2250 2006-05-11T21:17:43Z Michael 18 1596 2251 2006-05-11T21:18:25Z Michael 18 1597 2252 2006-05-11T21:19:52Z Michael 18 Finished with the follow through Finished with the follow through 1599 3785 2006-07-07T07:46:33Z Lonny 2 [[Category:Knots]] ===Figure Eight=== <gallery> Image:DSCF0001.jpg Image:DSCF0002.jpg Image:DSCF0003.jpg Image:DSCF0004.jpg Image:DSCF0005.jpg Image:DSCF0006.jpg Image:DSCF0007.jpg Image:DSCF0008.jpg Image:DSCF0009.jpg Image:DSCF0010.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1600 2256 2006-05-11T22:04:15Z Michael 18 1601 2257 2006-05-11T22:04:46Z Michael 18 1602 2258 2006-05-11T22:05:18Z Michael 18 1603 2259 2006-05-11T22:05:44Z Michael 18 1604 2260 2006-05-11T22:06:29Z Michael 18 1605 2261 2006-05-11T22:07:17Z Michael 18 1606 32417 2007-12-30T21:00:23Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/211.97.70.252|211.97.70.252]] ([[User_talk:211.97.70.252|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Michael|Michael]] 1607 2263 2006-05-11T22:08:17Z Michael 18 1608 32408 2007-12-30T20:04:28Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/74.208.44.213|74.208.44.213]] ([[User_talk:74.208.44.213|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Michael|Michael]] 1609 2265 2006-05-11T22:09:52Z Michael 18 1610 2266 2006-05-11T22:10:35Z Michael 18 1611 2267 2006-05-11T22:11:06Z Michael 18 1612 2268 2006-05-11T22:11:26Z Michael 18 1613 2269 2006-05-11T22:12:07Z Michael 18 1614 2270 2006-05-11T22:12:37Z Michael 18 1615 2271 2006-05-11T22:12:58Z Michael 18 1616 2272 2006-05-11T22:13:27Z Michael 18 1617 2273 2006-05-11T22:13:46Z Michael 18 1618 2274 2006-05-11T22:14:03Z Michael 18 1619 2275 2006-05-11T22:14:34Z Michael 18 1620 2276 2006-05-11T22:15:00Z Michael 18 1621 2277 2006-05-11T22:15:27Z Michael 18 1622 2278 2006-05-11T22:15:59Z Michael 18 1623 2279 2006-05-11T22:16:30Z Michael 18 1624 2280 2006-05-11T22:16:58Z Michael 18 1625 3787 2006-07-07T07:55:46Z ATSysop 1 [[Category:Knots]] ===Figure Eight on a bight=== <gallery> Image:DSCF0011.jpg Image:DSCF0012.jpg Image:DSCF0013.jpg Image:DSCF0014.jpg Image:DSCF0015.jpg Image:DSCF0016.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1626 32399 2007-12-30T19:58:34Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/63.238.216.253|63.238.216.253]] ([[User_talk:63.238.216.253|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Curtbeckmann|Curtbeckmann]] ===Bowline=== <gallery> Image:DSCF0017.jpg Image:DSCF0018.jpg Image:DSCF0019.jpg Image:DSCF0020.jpg Image:DSCF0021.jpg Image:DSCF0022.jpg </gallery> ===Bowline one more time=== <gallery> Image:DSCF0023.jpg Image:DSCF0025.jpg Image:DSCF0027.jpg Image:DSCF0028.jpg Image:DSCF0029.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1627 3789 2006-07-07T08:01:08Z ATSysop 1 [[Category:Knots]] ===Butterfly or Harness loop=== <gallery> Image:DSCF0030.jpg Image:DSCF0031.jpg Image:DSCF0032.jpg Image:DSCF0033.jpg Image:DSCF0034.jpg Image:DSCF0035.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1628 2289 2006-05-12T02:10:48Z Michael 18 1629 2290 2006-05-12T02:11:07Z Michael 18 1630 2291 2006-05-12T02:11:22Z Michael 18 1631 2292 2006-05-12T02:11:39Z Michael 18 1632 2293 2006-05-12T02:12:01Z Michael 18 1633 2294 2006-05-12T02:12:26Z Michael 18 1634 2295 2006-05-12T02:12:53Z Michael 18 1635 2296 2006-05-12T02:13:21Z Michael 18 1636 2297 2006-05-12T02:13:47Z Michael 18 1637 2298 2006-05-12T02:14:21Z Michael 18 1638 2299 2006-05-12T02:14:39Z Michael 18 1639 2300 2006-05-12T02:14:56Z Michael 18 1640 2301 2006-05-12T02:15:13Z Michael 18 1641 2302 2006-05-12T02:15:30Z Michael 18 1642 2303 2006-05-12T02:15:52Z Michael 18 1643 2304 2006-05-12T02:16:46Z Michael 18 1644 2305 2006-05-12T02:17:05Z Michael 18 1645 2306 2006-05-12T02:17:22Z Michael 18 1646 2307 2006-05-12T02:17:46Z Michael 18 1647 2308 2006-05-12T02:18:06Z Michael 18 1648 2309 2006-05-12T02:18:25Z Michael 18 1649 2310 2006-05-12T02:18:50Z Michael 18 1650 2311 2006-05-12T02:19:12Z Michael 18 1651 2312 2006-05-12T02:19:29Z Michael 18 1652 2313 2006-05-12T02:19:50Z Michael 18 1653 2314 2006-05-12T02:20:11Z Michael 18 1654 2315 2006-05-12T02:20:32Z Michael 18 1655 2316 2006-05-12T02:20:53Z Michael 18 1656 2317 2006-05-12T02:21:18Z Michael 18 1657 2318 2006-05-12T02:21:47Z Michael 18 1658 2319 2006-05-12T02:22:15Z Michael 18 1659 2320 2006-05-12T02:22:45Z Michael 18 1660 2321 2006-05-12T02:24:02Z Michael 18 1661 2322 2006-05-12T02:24:24Z Michael 18 1662 2323 2006-05-12T02:24:46Z Michael 18 1663 2324 2006-05-12T02:25:12Z Michael 18 1664 2325 2006-05-12T02:25:34Z Michael 18 1665 2326 2006-05-12T02:25:55Z Michael 18 1666 2327 2006-05-12T02:26:14Z Michael 18 1667 2328 2006-05-12T02:26:39Z Michael 18 1668 2329 2006-05-12T02:26:58Z Michael 18 1669 2330 2006-05-12T02:27:21Z Michael 18 1670 2331 2006-05-12T02:27:43Z Michael 18 1671 2332 2006-05-12T02:28:07Z Michael 18 1672 3790 2006-07-07T08:03:31Z ATSysop 1 [[Category:Knots]] ===Double Fisherman's=== <gallery> Image:Picture 001.jpg Image:Picture 002.jpg Image:Picture 003.jpg Image:Picture 004.jpg Image:Picture 005.jpg Image:Picture 006.jpg Image:Picture 007.jpg Image:Picture 008.jpg Image:Picture 009.jpg Image:Picture 010.jpg Image:Picture 011.jpg Image:Picture 012.jpg Image:Picture 013.jpg Image:Picture 014.jpg Image:Picture 015.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1673 3792 2006-07-07T08:06:34Z ATSysop 1 [[Category:Knots]] ===Clove Hitch=== <gallery> Image:Picture 016.jpg Image:Picture 017.jpg Image:Picture 018.jpg Image:Picture 019.jpg Image:Picture 020.jpg Image:Picture 021.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1674 3793 2006-07-07T08:09:14Z ATSysop 1 [[Category:Knots]] ===Truckers Hitch=== <gallery> Image:Picture 022.jpg Image:Picture 023.jpg Image:Picture 024.jpg Image:Picture 025.jpg Image:Picture 026.jpg Image:Picture 027.jpg Image:Picture 028.jpg Image:Picture 030.jpg Image:Picture 031.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1675 8430 2006-11-25T01:39:26Z Lonny 2 changed category how to, to category knots ===How to put a rope on your back=== <gallery> Image:Picture 032.jpg Image:Picture 033.jpg Image:Picture 034.jpg Image:Picture 035.jpg Image:Picture 036.jpg Image:Picture 037.jpg Image:Picture 038.jpg Image:Picture 039.jpg Image:Picture 040.jpg Image:Picture 041.jpg Image:Picture 042.jpg Image:Picture 043.jpg Image:Picture 044.jpg Image:Picture 045.jpg </gallery> [[Category:Knots]] 1676 2369 2006-05-15T08:48:33Z Lonny 2 added apostrophe #redirect [[CCAT's Vermicomposting Bin]] 1677 2370 2006-05-15T08:48:57Z Lonny 2 added apostrophe #redirect [[Talk:CCAT's Vermicomposting Bin]] 1681 14950 2007-01-10T17:01:43Z Ericblazek 110 Long Page == First edits == A PV cell is made up of silicon, boron and phosphorus '''that is just an example'''. The silicon is a semi-conductive element that gets "excited" when struck by sunlight. There are no moving parts, merely reactions, which produce an '''internally effected''' electric voltage and '''externally effected''' current that is carried through wires within the cell to an electrical circuit. The boron and phosphorus are added to the outside '''doped (internal not external)''' of the silicon to act as positive and negative charges'''to create an abundance of holes or electrons. These doped layers, while alone are electrically neutral, create a voltage difference in the depletion zone as the holes and electrons migrate across the contact surface.''' == history page == Check out the history tab for the category page and compare your last edit to my most recent edit to see all the changes. I made many small changes without using the bold and italic text to note it. == Long Page == This is a long one... with lots of information, especially for a category page. What about moving it to a regular page, and splitting it up into seperate pages so that we can add product reviews, external links, etc. to each of the elements... nice graphics. [[User:Ericblazek|Ericblazek]] 08:55, 10 January 2007 (PST) 1682 2378 2006-05-15T14:38:22Z Soysinlimites 23 1683 2379 2006-05-15T14:40:25Z Soysinlimites 23 1684 2380 2006-05-15T14:42:10Z Soysinlimites 23 1685 11220 2007-01-02T09:19:52Z Ajay 34 /* Reply about signatures and logins */ - spam q ==Thank you for contributing== Hi Ajay, Thank you for contributing. Just a quick wiki note, to sign a comment use the following dash and tilde combination: <nowiki> --~~~ or --~~~~ </nowiki> to achieve the following --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] or --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:08, 17 May 2006 (PDT) == Reply about signatures and logins == ''Excerpt from Ajay at [[User_talk:Lonny]]'' I tried to sign off in the exact same manner as was there in the comment you left there, so sorry if I missed wiki etiquette.. might be a good link from the main page to wikiquette. It is one of the few wierd wiki abstractions. Dash Dash Tilde Tilde Tilde results in --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]]. Add one more tilde and the timestamp is added. When you go back to edit the entry, the dash dash tilde tilde tilde are gone, and the wiki markup is in its stead. (see your addition to [[Argentina Photovoltaics]] for a good reason to use this abstraction... Aonny) ''Excerpt:'' I also don't understand the talk pages, how to leave comments next to my edits and probably a few other things. The talk pages are just like any other wiki page, with the addition of a + tab next to the discussion tab for easy adding of new talk content. In addition, when on someone's talk page, a special toolbox is present on the left replete with an "Email this user" link. You can leave comments with your edits using the fill in box titled Summary at the bottom of the edit page. These comments only show up in the History tab. For more indepth comments, utilize the discussion tab for the article on which you are commenting. What's the status of this now? --[[User:Ajay|Ajay]] (aka [http://AToTheT.orG/ @]) 01:19, 2 January 2007 (PST) ''Excerpt:'' And I thought it was interesting that you require logins to edit, very non-wikipedia. Not that I wholly object, and maybe you've already thought about some of the ramifications of this, but I just wanted to put out that it's a minor barrier to entry. There are many pros and cons to both sides of the issue. I would appreciate your thoughts on it. I will let you know when there is a page for this discussion. and.. WHAT time is it!?! (esp where you are!) Go to bed!! :) Working on it :) --[[User:Lonny|Lonny]] 00:43, 17 May 2006 (PDT) == Replying == Thanks for the note - I replied on my talk page. --[[User:Singkong2005|Singkong2005]] &middot; <small>[[User talk:Singkong2005|talk]]</small> 00:45, 2 January 2007 (PST) 1686 47833 2008-07-26T18:56:18Z Fixer 1109 Undo revision 47728 by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]) <div class="usermessage plainlinks" style="background-color: inherit">'''[http://www.appropedia.org/w/index.php?title=User_talk:Aaron&action=edit&section=new Leave a new message on Aaron's talk page.]'''</div> <br style="clear:both"> {{Userboxtop}} {{User transportation}} {{Userboxbottom}} [[Image:Aaron.jpg|right]] <span style="font-size:16pt;font-weight:bold">Aaron Antrim</span> [http://aaron.arcatacommunity.org Aaron's website] == Participation in Appropedia == For recent edits see [[Special:Contributions/Aaron | my user contributions page]]. === Technical assistance === I worked with the original founders of Appropedia, consulting with them to determine the most appropriate wiki software package, as well as features and policies which should be implemented. Here's my original [[User:Aaron/Wiki_package_comparison | report comparing wiki packages]] considered for Appropedia. === Pages and projects === * [[Backpack frame bike trailer]] - Article author. * [[Sunny Brae Yurt]] - I was an occasional project collaborator and hand, also appropedia page advisor and wiki markup assistant * Step-by-step HSU [[Car-Free Day]] planning guide * [[Summer of AT in Mexico, 2006]] - Article on Parras Summer Program 2006 * [[Parras Solar Hot Water]] - hub page for solar hot water tests and projects * [[Hotel Perote Solar Pool Heating System]] - Parras, Coahuila México * [[Zaragoza Solar Hot Water System]] - Parras, Coahuila México == Education == Earned undergraduate degree in English literature Spring 2006 from [[wikipedia:Humboldt State University | Humboldt State University]]. == Appropriate technology == === Interests === * Appropriate [[information technology]] ** Open source software * GIS and mapping * Organic gardening * [[Photovoltaics]] * Transportation ** See [http://www.humboldt.edu/~wheels HSU Green Wheels] === Experience === * Basic electrical wiring * Welding for constructing bike trailer in ENGR 114 * Basic gardening * Internet organizing * Internet publishing * [[:category:Parras Solar Hot Water | Solar hot water in Parras]] === Education === * Whole Earth Engineering (114) Spring 2006 with [[user:Lonny | Lonny Grafman]] at CSU Humboldt. * ENGR 305 and 480 in Parras, Coahuila México with [[user:Lonny | Lonny Grafman]]. === Community information technology projects === *[http://www.arcatacommunity.org/ ArcataCommunity.org] *[http://www.humscape.com/ Humscape.com] [[Category:Parras 2006]] 1687 31112 2007-11-21T11:55:56Z Chriswaterguy 49 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/211.68.112.54|211.68.112.54]] ([[User_talk:211.68.112.54|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:J.M.Pearce|J.M.Pearce]] ==Who we are== [[Image:Parras06NearPerote.jpg|thumb|Parras 06 group near perote. The [http://cdc.humboldt.edu/~lms/gallery/lrg3/view_album.php?set_albumName=Parras06 gallery] has more photos]] See the [[Parras Invitation]] for initial information on the program. In addition, please browse the user pages, project pages and other working pages below to see more about us and what we are doing. ==Our definition of Appropriate Technology== [[:Category:Appropriate technology|Appropriate Technology]] is an analytical, iterative and cooperative approach to supporting health and happiness by: * effectively leveraging local knowledge, materials, wealth and labor * strengthening symbiotic relationships between individuals, communities and their environment * employing [[biomimicry]] and [[Cradle to cradle|cradle-to-cradle]] design * encouraging [[transparency]], equality and empowerment through education * considering cultural, political and historical context * effecting fun, sexy and functional solutions to bolster local economy and workforce, reduce environmental impacts and improve current conditions for the future. ==List of Projects== ;[[UTC Solar Distiller]] :An ongoing project designed and implemented at Universidad Tecnològica de Coahuila in Parras de la Fuente, Coahuila México to provide safe drinking water purified by the process of solar distillation. :by ''[[User:AngelaMC|Angela Crane]] and [[User:Kinzer|Jeff Kinzer]]'' ;[[El Jardín Mágico de las Niñas]] :Two students continue to help veggies and children grow through organic gardening, environmental education and friendships with young girls from disrupted families at an asilo/foster home. :by ''[[user:Juliana|Juliana Goldstein]] and [[user:iem4|Irene McNaughton]]'' ;[[DIF Adobe Senior Center]] :Students and community members made 1000 adobe bricks, and started the construction of Adobe Senior Center at Parras Desarollo Integral de la Familia (DIF). :''by [[User:AnaMari|Ana Mari Arruabarrena]] and [[User:Avm7|Ariana Verona Madappa]]'' ;[[:Category:Parras Solar Hot Water | Parras Solar Hot Water]] :Repair of a solar hot water heating system for residential showers in Parras. Construction of a solar hot water heating system for a hotel pool in Parras. :''by [[User:Aaron|Aaron Antrim]], [[User:Tybie|Tybie Fitzhugh]] and [[User:Bfgrimes|Ben Grimes]]'' ;[[Photovoltaic vaccine refrigeration|Photovoltaic vaccine refrigeration at Centro de Salud]] :Acquisition and construction of a system for vaccine refrigeration at Centro de Salud utilizing photovoltaic energy. :''by [[User:Dcc88|Daniel Colman]], [[User:Mark|Mark Ambrosino]] and [[User:Lal38|Lauren Lamet]]'' ;[http://cdc.humboldt.edu/~lms/gallery/lrg3/view_album.php?set_albumName=AguasNegras Construction of a pilot wastewater marsh] : :''by [[User:Tressie|Tressie Word]] and Kendra Cecil'' [[Category:Parras]] [[Category:Service Learning Events]] 1688 48018 2008-07-26T20:56:10Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Chriswaterguy|Chriswaterguy]] [[Image:Irene behindglass.jpg|right|frame|Ayudame porfavor. I am stuck in a caja de vidrio.]] Name: Irene Elizabeth Age: 21 Telephone- 42 2 07 43 ==AT Interests== *[[Gardening]] *[[Composting]] *[[Recycling]] *[[Solar Energy]] *[[Biodisel]] ==AT Experience== *Gardening *Composting [[Category:Parras 2006]] 1689 47959 2008-07-26T20:49:47Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Mark|Mark]] [[Image:mark.jpg]] name: mark age: 300 ==AT INTERESTS== *[[i like plants]] *[[i make movies]] *i want to learn to make my own clothes from natural fibers == AT EXPERIENCES== *intimate knowledge of fishing *healthy eating [[category:Parras 2006]] 1690 48100 2008-07-26T21:05:57Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:80.100.2.221|80.100.2.221]] [[Image:Ben bust.jpg|right]] name: ben grimes age: 28 born in: chicago, il living in: arcata, ca ==AT INTERESTS== *water quality *alternative energy *gardening *ceramics *video ==AT EXPERIANCE== *wetland workshop in oaxaca, mexico *senior in environmental engineering *2 years working in weatherization *6 years working in digital video *electrical experiance *construction experiance *machining experiance [[category:Parras 2006]] 1691 47980 2008-07-26T20:51:30Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Aaron|Aaron]] [[Image:Jdk_face.jpg]] Name: Jeff Kinzer <br> Status: Perdido en el Mundo =Appropriate Technology= Parras 2006 ENGR 480 Project: [[UTC Solar Distiller]] ==Interests== *Sustainable, environmentally sound methods of power generation *Methods of transportation *Alternative fuels: **[[:Category:Biodiesel|Biodiesel]] :: [[wikipedia:Biodiesel]] **[[Hydrogen]] :: [[wikipedia:Hydrogen]] **[[Ethanol]] :: [[wikipedia:Ethanol]] *[[Hemp]] Cultivation, processing, implementation ([[wikipedia: Cannabis Sativa]]) *Reduction of dependence upon a monetary system through trade, bartering and community assistance. ==Experience== *Junk fabrication (reincarnation of objects) *Organic sustainable farming *Reduction of consumption and reuse of waste products *[http://www.opensource.org/ Open Source Software] **[http://www.gnu.org/ GNU Operating System] **[http://www.kernel.org/ Linux Kernel] *Repair. **Computers (hardware and software) **Electronics **Automobiles and mechanical devices == Links == *[[ Low cost computer guide ]] *[http://www.fsf.org/ Free Software Foundation] *Some Popular Linux distributions **'''[http://www.ubuntu.com/ Ubuntu]''' ("Humanity to Others," Highly recommended) **[http://www.us.debian.org/ Debian] (The parent of Ubuntu) **[http://www.slackware.com/ Slackware] (my personal favorite) [[Category:Parras 2006]] 1692 47878 2008-07-26T20:32:09Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Tybie|Tybie]] [[Image:Tybie01.jpg|right]] Name: Tybie Fitzhugh Age: 22 ==AT Interests== *[[Photovoltaics]] (PV) *Natural Building *Parabolic Cookers *Solar Water Heater *Solar Distillation ==AT Experience== *[[Light Emitting Diodes]] (LEDs) ==My work on Appropedia== *[[Hotel Perote Solar Pool Heating System]] *[[Zaragoza Solar Hot Water System]] *[[Image:DoubleDig.swf]] *See [[Special:Contributions/Tybie|my contributions]] for more. {{Userboxtop}} {{User photovoltaic}} {{User alternative building}} {{Userboxbottom}} <gallery caption="Some images I have created"> Image:Series_1T1B.gif‎ Image:Series_1T2B.gif Image:Parallel_1T2B.gif Image:Parallel_2T1B.gif Image:Series_2T1B.gif Image:SHWH valve setup.png Image:SHWH collector closeup.png Image:SHWH valve diagram.png Image:SHWH collector diagram.png </gallery> <dhflashplayer>file=DoubleDig.swf|width=320|height=263|path=http://www.appropedia.org/images/d/d4/</dhflashplayer> 1693 47993 2008-07-26T20:52:54Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Juliana|Juliana]] [[Image:Juliana.jpg|right|frame]] Name: Juliana Goldstein Birthday: 03-30-1983 Parras Phone number: 422-1144 ==AT Intrests== *Organic gardening *Solar Energy *Strawbail *Cob *Adobe *Composting *Vermaculture(worm bins) *Grey waste water systems *Living roofs ==AT Experience== *Youth Enviromental Education *Using recyclable materials in the classroom *Sewing *Recycling [[category:Parras 2006]] 1694 47898 2008-07-26T20:44:00Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Curtbeckmann|Curtbeckmann]] Name: Kiva Mahoney Age: 26 ==Appropriate Technology Interests== *Natural building *Gardening *Solar power *Micro hydro *Food preservation *Sowing *Community building *Traditional medicine *Lost arts of living (tracking, fire making, ext.) *Working with children *International AT involvement == Appropriate Technology Experience== *Straw bale construction *Installation of a micro hydro system *Running a CSA *Teaching organic gardening *Recycling *Installation of a PV array *Food preservation *Working on spring boxes and running water in the hills *Raising chickens *Paper making *TA for a AT program in Parras Mexico ==Pages on Appropedia== *[[Kiva’s straw bale greenhouse]] *[[Briceland PV]] *[[Double digging]] [[Image:Kiva.jpg|225px]] [[category:Parras 2006]] 1695 48105 2008-07-26T21:06:53Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Avm7|Avm7]] '''Ariana Verona Madappa''' [[Image:Ariana.JPG]] == '''Appropriate Technology''' == === Intrests === *Organic Gardening *Natural Building *Solar Energy *Natural Medicine *Sewing *Composting *Recycling === Experience === *Gardening *Recycling *Composting *Adobe Construction *Sewing *Aromatherapy === Project === *[[DIF Adobe Senior Center]] [[category:Parras 2006]] 1696 48112 2008-07-26T21:07:41Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:AngelaMC|AngelaMC]] [[Image:Angela.jpg|right]] Name: Angela Crane Age: Not important Parras Phone: 4224808 ==AT Interests== *Solar heating & distillation *Survey of community needs ==AT Experience== *Camping *Hiking *Water activities [[category:Parras 2006]] 1697 2419 2006-05-23T22:25:21Z Iem4 38 Photo of irene in Parras, May, 2006. Photo of irene in Parras, May, 2006. 1698 2421 2006-05-23T22:33:30Z Soysinlimites 23 1699 2423 2006-05-23T22:36:54Z Bfgrimes 41 1700 2425 2006-05-23T22:41:07Z Tybie 39 Photo of Tybie at UTC in Parras, Mexico. May 23, 2006. Photo of Tybie at UTC in Parras, Mexico. May 23, 2006. 1701 2426 2006-05-23T22:43:42Z Mark 36 mark picking nose mark picking nose 1702 48061 2008-07-26T21:00:16Z Curtbeckmann 67 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/Hiwhispeeslovesya|Hiwhispeeslovesya]] ([[User talk:Hiwhispeeslovesya|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:69.224.59.112|69.224.59.112]] [[Image:Daniel1.jpg]] Name:Daniel Age:19 Email:dcc88@sbcglobal.net Major:International Studies/Globalization Minor:AT '''AT INTERESTS:''' #Solar Power: #*Photovoltaics #*solar cookers #*parabolic #*solar #*dishes #*solar water distillers #Micro-Hydro '''AT EXPERIENCE:''' *Parabolic solar cookers *Gardening *Composting *Basic PV knowledge. I helped build a solar fountain-pond at Somoa High School. [[category:parras 2006]] 1703 2429 2006-05-23T22:45:06Z Juliana 37 1704 2432 2006-05-23T22:46:36Z Dcc88 40 Me llamo Daniel Me llamo Daniel 1705 2435 2006-05-23T22:50:33Z Dcc88 40 Me llamo Daniel Me llamo Daniel 1706 2436 2006-05-23T22:52:15Z Mark 36 mark nose mark nose 1707 2538 2006-05-26T19:26:02Z Kinzer 44 Mug shot inside molecule of water. 1708 2439 2006-05-23T22:55:44Z Aaron 35 Aaron Antrim in the street in front of UTC in Parras de la Fuente, Mexico. Aaron Antrim in the street in front of UTC in Parras de la Fuente, Mexico. 1709 2440 2006-05-23T22:55:49Z Avm7 43 1710 2443 2006-05-23T23:08:52Z AngelaMC 42 Parras, May 2006 Parras, May 2006 1711 49793 2008-08-24T00:35:07Z Lonny 2 added Cat:Coursework <center>[ [[Parras Invitation|First Glance Information]] ] - [ [[Parras Handbook|Handbook]] ] - [ [[Parras What to Pack|What to Pack]] ] - [ [[:Category:Parras 2006|Parras 2006]] ] - [ [[:Category:Parras 2007|Parras 2007]] ] - [ [[:Category:Parras 2008|Parras 2008]] ]</center> ---- The Parras Summer Program, in {{WP p|Parras|Parras,}}, [[Mexico]] is a summer immersion in Appropriate Technology, globalization and Spanish language and culture. See the [[Parras Invitation]] for more information. ==Parras Groups== <gallery> Image:Group_Perote.sized.jpg|Most of the Parras2005 group near Perote Image:Parras06NearPerote.jpg|Most of the [[:Category:Parras 2006|Parras2006]] group near Perote Image:Queunequipo.jpg|Most of the [[:Category:Parras 2007|Parras2007]] group farming Image:Groupoycruz.jpg|Most of the [[:Category:Parras 2008|Parras2008]] group near Perote </gallery> ==Links== *[http://learn.humboldt.edu/gallery/lrg3/view_album.php?set_albumName=Parras_de_la_Fuente Photos] Gallery of parras photos including [http://learn.humboldt.edu/gallery/lrg3/view_album.php?set_albumName=NatBuilding building with adobe]. *[http://outside.away.com/outside/destinations/200212/200212/mexican_hideouts_4.html Outside Magazine December 2002] Mexican Hideouts La bicicleta tranquila: where the singletrack and vino tinto flow. *[http://www.parrascoahuila.turincon.com/ Primer Pueblo Mágico del Norte de México] *[http://www.utc.edu.mx/ Universidad Tecnológica de Coahuila] *[http://en.coahuila.gob.mx/ Official Portal of the State of Coahuila] *[http://www.pequals.com/at/ Pequals.com] This site contains some projects by Parras Summer Program 2005 students including a [http://www.pequals.com/at/cuestionarios/ survey]. *[http://servidor.seplade-coahuila.gob.mx/ohs_images/seplade/files/parrasingles.pdf Secretario de Fomento Económico] Document from the Economic Development Department geared towards big business such as textile manufacturers with '''many''' useful facts. [[Category:Programs]] [[Category:Humboldt State University]] [[Category:Mexico]] [[Category:Service Learning Programs]] [[Category:Coursework]] 1712 2473 2006-05-25T17:15:51Z Lonny 2 changed to standard parras resources format... maybe add spot for phone number '''Name:''' No se. <br /> '''General Description:''' Material Resale <br /> '''What is Available:''' Buy or sell aluminum, bronze, copper, cardboard and newspaper. Anyone know more? <br /> '''Description of Location:''' Located on Josefina Ortiz, past the Dulces Regionales shop, of Calzada del Marques. <br /> '''Notes:''' Picture and location from Ashley Gregory, Parras, 2006 1714 31200 2007-11-24T07:33:51Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/220.231.39.55|220.231.39.55]] ([[User_talk:220.231.39.55|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Curtbeckmann|Curtbeckmann]] Please peruse, or add to, the local where-to-find-supplies pages listed below, or start your own. * Think free bins, thrift stores, junk yards, repair shops, wood piles, clay piles. ===To add a new supply page=== {{Createnewpage}} [[Category:Construction and materials]] [[Category:User resources]] 1715 2469 2006-05-25T17:04:16Z Aaron 35 [[image:Parras_tourism_map.jpg]] from http://parrascoahuila.turincon.com/ [[category:Parras]] 1716 2468 2006-05-25T16:59:29Z Aaron 35 From http://parrascoahuila.turincon.com/ (http://parrascoahuila.tripod.com/parritas.JPG) From http://parrascoahuila.turincon.com/ (http://parrascoahuila.tripod.com/parritas.JPG) 1717 24857 2007-07-11T01:00:23Z Lonny 2 archiving This was the assignment page for the [[Parras 2006]] program. See [[Parras globalization assignments]] and [[Parras AT assignments]] for more up-to-date assignments. <small>''See [[Parras Assignments/Archive]] for the archive.''</small> 1718 28459 2007-10-04T15:58:43Z Lonny 2 Reverted edits by [[Special:Contributions/17.149.0.104|17.149.0.104]] ([[User_talk:17.149.0.104|Talk]]); changed back to last version by [[User:Lonny|Lonny]] === Multi-Servicios Parras === *'''What is Available:''' Light bulbs, pipes, plumbing supplies, hoses, electrical supplies <br /> *'''Location:''' Ramos Aripe 219, near supermercado, white and orange exterior <br /> *'''Notes:''' This store has some plumbing supplies, but mostly electrical stuff. [[image:multi-servicios_parras.jpg]] [[image:Inside_multi-serivicios.jpg]] ===Ferredetodo=== *'''What is Available:''' All sorts of hardware supplies: shovels, pitchforks, rakes, hoes, wheel barrels, ladders, tool boxes, rope, hose, brooms, mops, barbed wire, wire screens, chicken wire, elbow pipes, sprinklers, batteries, keys, paint, doorknobs, duct tape, spray cans, chain, pliers, screwdrivers, wire cutters, wrenches, sanders, brushes, saws, pruners, jumper cables, hexagon bike keys, hammers, etc. <br /> *'''Location:''' On 16 de Septiembre, directly across the street from the Pemex gas station. Between Vergel and Circuito Isabel Davila De Flores Tapia. <br /> *'''Notes:''' This store has a wide variety of hardware supplies and was recommended by my madre. [[Image:ferredetodo.jpg]] ===Instructions=== Copy and paste the following into notepad. Make the appropriate edits (replace allcap text) and then paste above the Instructions line in the edit window. {{Template:Parras supplies}} [[Category:Parras Supplies]] 1719 2567 2006-05-26T20:04:03Z Aaron 35 Changed category sort term === Comercial Navejar Papeleria === *'''What is Available:''' boligrafos, lapizes, papeles, calculadoras, regional maps (but not of the la Ciudad de Parras) *'''Location:''' 49 Reforma, near cross-street with Ramos Arizpe *'''Notes:''' Teléfono: 422-2838 [[Image:Comercial_navejar_papeleria.jpg]] [[Image:Navejar_papeleria_interior.jpg]] ===Papeleria Oasis=== *'''Location:''' 33 Calle Musques, at corrner with Ramos Arizpe, cerca del supermercado (fairly near UTC) *'''Products and services:''' Great slection of papers, uncluttered and easy to find, boligrafos, lapizes, papeles, calculadoras, copying, and copies of letter-sized Parras street map [[image:papeleria_oasis.jpg]] [[image:papeleria_oasis_interior.jpg]] ===Instructions=== Copy and paste the following into notepad. Make the appropriate edits (replace allcap text) and then paste above the Instructions line in the edit window. <nowiki>===Name of Store===</nowiki> <nowiki>*'''What is Available:''' WHAT KIND OF STUFF OR RESOURCES DO THEY HAVE OR OFFER <br /></nowiki> <nowiki>*'''Location:''' WHERE IS IT LOCATED? ADDRESS, CROSSSTREETS, LANDMARKS <br /></nowiki> <nowiki>*'''Notes:''' ADDITIONAL NOTES</nowiki> <nowiki>[[Image:YourImageName]]</nowiki> [[Category:Parras Supplies]] 1720 2478 2006-05-25T18:08:19Z Aaron 35 Comercial Navejar Papeleria in Parras. Exterior shot. Comercial Navejar Papeleria in Parras. Exterior shot. 1721 2479 2006-05-25T18:09:14Z Aaron 35 Comercial Navejar Papeleria in Parras. Interior shot. Comercial Navejar Papeleria in Parras. Interior shot. 1722 2508 2006-05-26T05:01:23Z Lonny 2 ===Farmacia Veterinaria=== *'''What is Available:''' Green alfalfa for horses and livestock, but not dry yellow straw (as far as could be seen) <br /> *'''Location:''' Near 434 Calle de Bravo, near cross-street with Reforma <br /> *'''Notes:''' Teléfono: 422-1171 [[Image:farmacia_veterinaria.jpg]] [[Image:parras_alfalfa_trailer.jpg]] ===Instructions=== Copy and paste the following into notepad. Make the appropriate edits (replace allcap text) and then paste above the Instructions line in the edit window. {{Template:Parras supplies}} [[Category:Parras Supplies]] 1723 2482 2006-05-25T18:16:25Z Aaron 35 Trailer full of alfalfa in Parras. Mark a la derecho. Trailer full of alfalfa in Parras. Mark a la derecho. 1724 2483 2006-05-25T18:17:27Z Aaron 35 Farmacia Veterinaria in Parras. Aaron al izquierda. Farmacia Veterinaria in Parras. Aaron al izquierda. 1725 2589 2006-05-26T21:04:14Z Aaron 35 /* Computo y Linea */ changed subtopic level ===Computo y Linea=== {| class="infobox bordered" style="text-align: left; font-size: 95%;" |- ! Location: | Allende 306 |- ! Teléfono: | 422-2899 o 422-3856 |- ! Offers: | copies, fax, internet, systems sales, otras cosas |} [[Category:Parras Supplies]] 1726 2528 2006-05-26T19:00:27Z Lonny 2 Location and descriptions of [[:category:supplies|supplies]] and related resources in and around Parras de la Fuente, Mexico are listed the articles below. If there is not a article for your resource type, feel free to add a page titled '''Parras YourResourceType''' and make sure to include the following in your resource type page (at the bottom of your new page): {{Template:Parras supplies}} <nowiki>[[Category:Parras Supplies]]</nowiki> [[Category:Parras]] [[Category:Parras 2006]] [[Category:Supplies]] 1727 2493 2006-05-26T02:56:30Z Avm7 43 1728 2496 2006-05-26T03:04:42Z Avm7 43 1729 2498 2006-05-26T03:07:51Z Avm7 43 1730 2511 2006-05-26T05:25:19Z Lonny 2 ==="Jorita" Ropa, Merceria, Papeleria y Boneteria=== '''General Description:''' the outside is light blue <br /> '''What is Available:''' There is bulk fabric, zippers, buttons, strings, ribbons, and other things that are necessary to make clothes <br /> '''Description of Location:''' Ramos Arispe 148 <br /> [[image:fabric store.jpg]] [[image:inside fabric store.jpg]] ===Instructions=== Copy and paste the following into notepad. Make the appropriate edits (replace allcap text) and then paste above the Instructions line in the edit window. {{Template:Parras supplies}} [[Category:Parras Supplies]] 1731 2501 2006-05-26T03:18:14Z Avm7 43 1732 2529 2006-05-26T19:00:53Z Lonny 2 <nowiki>===Name of Store===</nowiki> <nowiki>*'''What is Available:''' WHAT KIND OF STUFF OR RESOURCES DO THEY HAVE OR OFFER</nowiki> <nowiki>*'''Location:''' WHERE IS IT LOCATED? ADDRESS, CROSSSTREETS, LANDMARKS</nowiki> <nowiki>*'''Notes:''' ADDITIONAL NOTES</nowiki> <nowiki>[[Image:YOURIMAGENAME]]</nowiki> 1733 2823 2006-06-07T22:39:31Z Kinzer 44 /* Chacharas */ ===No se, pero Material Resale=== *'''What is Available:''' Buy or sell aluminum, bronze, copper, cardboard and newspaper. Anyone know more? *'''Location:''' Located on Josefina Ortiz, past the Dulces Regionales shop, of Calzada del Marques. *'''Notes:''' Picture and location from Ashley, Parras, 2006 [[Image:Vendede.jpg]] ===Chacharas=== *'''What is Available:''' Broken things, old electronics, CDs/DVDs, misc *'''Location:''' Allende, j